Good to know... I've pretty much given up on trying to get that wheel off for now. I've been making some progress in figuring out why the mower is so hard to shift from forward to reverse and it seems to be connected to the adjustment for the brakes behind the right rear tire. I can make that adjustment without removing the wheel, although it would be easier with the wheel off.Regarding whacking the backside of a rim with a hammer, angle iron, or whatever to break it loose from the hub, I did that one time, and instead of the rim breaking loose, the retaining ring on the tip of the axle rod in the gear inside the transmission pulled out of its groove - so the entire axle rod-hub-wheel assembly slid out of the transmission.So I had to partially disassemble the transmission to retrieve the retainer ring and put a new retainer ring in.
The other day I decided to try and adjust what I thought was the brake behind the right rear wheel. As I was adjusting the nut inward, I thought I was adjusting the brake pad but instead found that it was also adjusting the tension on the drive belt as well. At one point I checked to see how the transmission was shifting, and was working perfectly. Then I though great, all I have to do now is tighten the nut all the way down and the messed everything up again. Before the adjustment it was very easy to depress the clutch/brake peddle down and after turning the nut clockwise the peddle became much harder to depress. Since this mower is different than my previous one, I'm having to re-learn how everything works on this one.
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Just an optical illusion.
Here is one here. It is suppose to be flush.
The OP problem is all this rust highlighted in this image and likely it worst than it looks.
TiIngot
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I just had the same problem today. I jacked up the right side allowing the left rear tire to remain grounded.
From the rear using a long sharp end bar (my jack handle) I put it against the rear side rim center shaft and hit the bar with a hammer, rotating the wheel and repeatedly hitting the rim shaft. Also, I hit the edge of the rim near the tire as I rotated the tire. It took about 10 minutes but it slowly moved and slid off. No heat or oil needed and the Craftsman is 28 years old with original tires until now.
OK so, I'm still trying to figure this out. For now I've decided to work on getting the brakes and the drive belt tension figured out. After making an adjustment behind the right rear wheel, the mower seems to shift just fine now. The problem I had was I kept turning the adjustment nut clockwise until to get to the point that the belt tension was too tight. I noticed there is also an adjustment nut just like the one behind the rear wheel... can I make an adjustment up by the brake/ clutch shown in the picture? Also, thank you for sending the attachment showing how to check the gap on the brake pad adjustment with feeler gauge. If I can get this working properly, I'll move on to the much harder task of getting that rear tire off but for now it's fine the way it is unless I have to fix a flat tire at some point.
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I am confused apparently. Isn't this an Auto Drive model? If so there is no way to adjust the belts at the transaxle. Or is it one with multiple speed control?
Now rear tires can be repaired while the rims are still on the mower, just a lot hardier but easier to do than 5" or 6" rim version that I had to do on a go cart.
And as noted many time on this and other forums MTD CVT drive requires MTD belts and not aftermarket belts. These are of an unique design both height and width. Common B belts just won't work right.
Now rear tires can be repaired while the rims are still on the mower, just a lot hardier but easier to do than 5" or 6" rim version that I had to do on a go cart.
And as noted many time on this and other forums MTD CVT drive requires MTD belts and not aftermarket belts. These are of an unique design both height and width. Common B belts just won't work right.
Funny how the acetone and Kroil did the worst.
Unless there is some void that allows the miracle juice to penetrate the threads, no spray on Earth will help. A nut and stud rusted over lacks these voids.
Saying that, I still fog it down usually waiting a couple weeks to allow the "wonder spray of the week" working time.
Unless there is some void that allows the miracle juice to penetrate the threads, no spray on Earth will help. A nut and stud rusted over lacks these voids.
Saying that, I still fog it down usually waiting a couple weeks to allow the "wonder spray of the week" working time.
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You got it. That why I suggested Muriatic Acid with soaking cup as a last resort. Even that has to fight the penetrating oils. Its is about the only thing that dissolve rust as it penetrate and does minor to the good parts; unless it is aluminum then it destroys it. Just have to do it outside with a breeze.