Stuck Gravely ZTR 152 Commercial

[thebruce]

So I stuck my ZTR in the mud pretty much unexpectedly. would not have expected to have trouble in that area...the mud is very slick however.
Doesn't seem to be buried too deep...maybe 4" (the raised deck is not dragging). The location is remote so I decided to just try digging it out. Got it ready (dug out) and now the engine won't turn over...like the battery is dead (but I know its not). Had a little trouble getting the parking brake to engage tho. More inclined to believe something is no longer connecting (like seat or brake switch). Fairly steep incline as well (facing downhill).
Everything was running fine prior to getting stuck.
I am planning to try to winch it out with a come-along, but this also brings up several additional questions like:
- where to attach on the frame of the mower. Pulling/pointed downhill so shouldn't take much power.
- Can I just release the parking brake and winch it 15-ish feet or do I need to bypass the transaxle? Haven't needed to find the lever yet.
- is it possible I cut a wire with my shovel? Pretty darn sure there were no wires hanging prior to this problem.
- Or is it more likely that the seat switch is not engaging?
- I suppose the moisture could confuse electrical contact but it would have to be very low on the machine. No standing water to speak of on the side of the hill.
Suggestions appreciated...insight revered.
Thanks

 

[Born2Mow]

Release the parking brake. Use common nylon tie-down strap(s) to attach to the frame in 2 places. This will keep from scratching the frame, and cut the force applied to any part of the frame by half. Attach the winch to the strap. Don't pull it any further than it takes to free the mower.

Trailer it directly to a place where you can completely wash the underside and inspect for damage. It's important that the cooling fans be operational AND free of all mud. Also, all the hydraulic controls and exterior linkage need to be clean and free to operate for your safety.

Mowers are not designed for this. It's imperative that ALL the mud is removed and that a thorough inspection is done.

 

[thebruce]

Thanks for the reply.
Your advice is good common sense...didn't know about the cooling fans though.
Hopefully I'll get it unstuck tomorrow.
Around here (Louisiana) we learn not to bury the vehicle by spinning (digging) deeper. Shoudn't have to pull it more than 20 feet to find solid ground. I've got an occasional spring on the side of this hill so I will have to find a better way to mow it.
Still pretty curious about what made the machine unresponsive after I switched it off.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Mowers are not designed for this. It's imperative that ALL the mud is removed and that a thorough inspection is done.


You meam the customers with the 20 year old JD ZTR shouldn't use it as a bushhog or to keep trails clear in his woods? I see it a few timeas a year and you darn near can't tell it is green from all the mud. He gets it stuck regularly in mud and pulls it out with a quad he keeps a tow strap on it. Last week he broke the cross strap between the bottom of the hydros. I get lots of welding practice on it.

 

[slomo]

Mowing mud now? Is this some new social media viral craze of the week?

slomo

 

[thebruce]

In Louisiana. mowing mud is a reality if you want a finished lawn...to wit...I purchased a small winch this morning to attach to the front of the machine.
Now I have a question about the short term, maximum amperage available from the magneto of the 691 Kawaski (rated 13 or 20a depending on which option is installed) for this winch (rated 60a @12v on a 1000lb load). First wondering how would i determine which opiton I have) and second wondering whether I need to install a seperate, isolated, heavier duty power source (think deep draw battery) to power the winch for short periods.
Any takers on this engineering conundrum given the weight penalty of a substantially larger battery? I should probably add that I am near 300 lbs myself. I specifically selected this machine because of its rigidity, low CoG and towing capacity because the sand hills I live on are quite steep. Hoping to increase longevity by keeping the systems out of a bind under my normal operating conditions. These hills are known to eat lesser machinery.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

The mower charging system and battery will not power the winch and may damage the ststor and regulator. I would install a high output deep cycle battery and isolate it from the mower. Use a separate deep cycle charger for it.

 

[thebruce]

In my experience, the "isolated" battery pretty much eliminates worry but I would have thought the rectifier would protect the magneto/regulator/potentially stator given the structure of the circuit...and no other particular evidence...Louisiana logic I suppose.
On boats, I have a long standing habit of installing "isolated" battery banks, day one, but I always charge them with the motor output. I also load them up like there is no tomorrow.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

A mower charging system is different than a boat motor. Long term high current draw can burnout a stator. The system is designed to charge a slightly discharged 300cca battery. Not a large high draw deep cycle battery.

 

[Born2Mow]

Still pretty curious about what made the machine unresponsive after I switched it off.

There are starter safety interlock switches on the seat, parking brake and op levers. If one of these got choked with mud it would tell the starter not to operate.

Of course, when pulling... pull in-line with the mower wheels.