So I stuck my ZTR in the mud pretty much unexpectedly. would not have expected to have trouble in that area...the mud is very slick however.
Doesn't seem to be buried too deep...maybe 4" (the raised deck is not dragging). The location is remote so I decided to just try digging it out. Got it ready (dug out) and now the engine won't turn over...like the battery is dead (but I know its not). Had a little trouble getting the parking brake to engage tho. More inclined to believe something is no longer connecting (like seat or brake switch). Fairly steep incline as well (facing downhill).
Everything was running fine prior to getting stuck.
I am planning to try to winch it out with a come-along, but this also brings up several additional questions like:
- where to attach on the frame of the mower. Pulling/pointed downhill so shouldn't take much power.
- Can I just release the parking brake and winch it 15-ish feet or do I need to bypass the transaxle? Haven't needed to find the lever yet.
- is it possible I cut a wire with my shovel? Pretty darn sure there were no wires hanging prior to this problem.
- Or is it more likely that the seat switch is not engaging?
- I suppose the moisture could confuse electrical contact but it would have to be very low on the machine. No standing water to speak of on the side of the hill.
Suggestions appreciated...insight revered.
Thanks
Release the parking brake. Use common nylon tie-down strap(s) to attach to the frame in 2 places. This will keep from scratching the frame, and cut the force applied to any part of the frame by half. Attach the winch to the strap. Don't pull it any further than it takes to free the mower.
Trailer it directly to a place where you can completely wash the underside and inspect for damage. It's important that the cooling fans be operational AND free of all mud. Also, all the hydraulic controls and exterior linkage need to be clean and free to operate for your safety.
Mowers are not designed for this. It's imperative that ALL the mud is removed and that a thorough inspection is done.
Thanks for the reply.
Your advice is good common sense...didn't know about the cooling fans though.
Hopefully I'll get it unstuck tomorrow.
Around here (Louisiana) we learn not to bury the vehicle by spinning (digging) deeper. Shoudn't have to pull it more than 20 feet to find solid ground. I've got an occasional spring on the side of this hill so I will have to find a better way to mow it.
Still pretty curious about what made the machine unresponsive after I switched it off.
#4
Hammermechanicman
Mowers are not designed for this. It's imperative that ALL the mud is removed and that a thorough inspection is done.
You meam the customers with the 20 year old JD ZTR shouldn't use it as a bushhog or to keep trails clear in his woods? I see it a few timeas a year and you darn near can't tell it is green from all the mud. He gets it stuck regularly in mud and pulls it out with a quad he keeps a tow strap on it. Last week he broke the cross strap between the bottom of the hydros. I get lots of welding practice on it.
In Louisiana. mowing mud is a reality if you want a finished lawn...to wit...I purchased a small winch this morning to attach to the front of the machine.
Now I have a question about the short term, maximum amperage available from the magneto of the 691 Kawaski (rated 13 or 20a depending on which option is installed) for this winch (rated 60a @12v on a 1000lb load). First wondering how would i determine which opiton I have) and second wondering whether I need to install a seperate, isolated, heavier duty power source (think deep draw battery) to power the winch for short periods.
Any takers on this engineering conundrum given the weight penalty of a substantially larger battery? I should probably add that I am near 300 lbs myself. I specifically selected this machine because of its rigidity, low CoG and towing capacity because the sand hills I live on are quite steep. Hoping to increase longevity by keeping the systems out of a bind under my normal operating conditions. These hills are known to eat lesser machinery.
#7
Hammermechanicman
The mower charging system and battery will not power the winch and may damage the ststor and regulator. I would install a high output deep cycle battery and isolate it from the mower. Use a separate deep cycle charger for it.
In my experience, the "isolated" battery pretty much eliminates worry but I would have thought the rectifier would protect the magneto/regulator/potentially stator given the structure of the circuit...and no other particular evidence...Louisiana logic I suppose.
On boats, I have a long standing habit of installing "isolated" battery banks, day one, but I always charge them with the motor output. I also load them up like there is no tomorrow.
Thanks for the reply.
#9
Hammermechanicman
A mower charging system is different than a boat motor. Long term high current draw can burnout a stator. The system is designed to charge a slightly discharged 300cca battery. Not a large high draw deep cycle battery.
There are starter safety interlock switches on the seat, parking brake and op levers. If one of these got choked with mud it would tell the starter not to operate.
Of course, when pulling... pull in-line with the mower wheels.
I installed a 3600 pound winch to the front of my Dixie Chopper a year ago and wired it directly to the battery and have no challenges with the charging or starting systems. I too live in the swamps of LA. and find myself mired in the muck. Only challenge now is the availability of trees to use as pulling locations. Some times have to resort to the tractor.
i have to say this is first time I ever got stuck pointing downhill. May have to put some better tires on this thing.
Got the mower unstuck yesterday with a come-along and all the rope /strap/chain I own to reach the nearest tree. Damn thing popped loose and began free rolling down the hill (gravity) unassisted. When the turf tires are filled slick with gumbo...couldn't pull the hat off your head (as we like to say).
once on drier ground, I addressed the starting issue today. Still no joy. Mower makes no sound when turned on and starter engaged.
- Battery is charged.
Checked the 30a fuse under the seat (appeared fine), couldn't find the other mythical fuse. Doesn't seem like to much to ask that the fuses be clearly located and indicated in a published diagram.
- not sure how to test the PTO switch or seat switch.
- likewise with the brake switch.
I bought this mower used with just south of 350hrs (now has 378). Best I can tell it is a 2017 model. I have 6 acres to cut and I'm falling behind. Really don't want to have to double mow everything again to get caught up.
Suggestions appreciated. I will call a mechanic soon. It just galls me that I can't seem to figure it out. Probably should mention I am recently legally blind (tunnel vision). I mow using the Roomba algorythm mostly when I can't see the mow lines. So in all honesty I probably shouldn't fault anyone for my inability to find things.
A very high percentage of the weight is placed on the drive wheels, so you've REALLY got to watch what the ground under them is like. Anything approaching moist is typically a no-no. Watch yourself around lakes and ponds. Just because it's firm enough to stand on to fish, does not mean it will support a mower.
On the switches... it depends on how the safety interlock system is wired. Some switches "make" the circuit, while others "break" the circuit. However, they all test the same way. Using the Ohm scale on a VOM, unplug the switch wiring, place the meter probes on the 2 switch terminals, then activate the switch. The meter should indicate "All & None" as the switch is repeatedly activated and released. Test the seat switch first, they seem to go out faster. (Something to do with BBQ and peach cobbler.)
And whatever you do about a bad Seat Switch... don't tell the wife. She'll simply say it's proof you need to loose weight !
