starter relay question

cambre

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I guess never too old to learn. The only two terminal relay I have ever come across is a flasher that flashes a light. I have no idea what you have or know how or what a two terminal relay does or how it even works other then flashes a light. Maybe someone can explain this one to me? I have seen relays with many as 6 terminals called a cube relay but the two terminal relay has me confused. Could you be looking at a circuit breaker and not a relay?:confused2:

It only has two terminals and mower has only one relay. I have four terminal relays on my Kubota back hoe. I don't know about my Grasshopper. I did get the Kohler I am trying to rewire to crank using the key ignition so with every ones help I am making progress. My next step is to locate magneto kill wire. There are two magnetos on the engine and looks like about six wires going to each. I take it that the ground terminal on the ignition switch goes to the kill wire on the mag. Maybe I'm about to "Get-er-done", thanks to all.
 

cambre

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I guess never too old to learn. The only two terminal relay I have ever come across is a flasher that flashes a light. I have no idea what you have or know how or what a two terminal relay does or how it even works other then flashes a light. Maybe someone can explain this one to me? I have seen relays with many as 6 terminals called a cube relay but the two terminal relay has me confused. Could you be looking at a circuit breaker and not a relay?:confused2:

Could very well be a circuit breaker. I'm not very sharp on electrical parts names. I do know what a light bulb is.
 

reynoldston

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Could very well be a circuit breaker. I'm not very sharp on electrical parts names. I do know what a light bulb is.

As you could see I wasn't buying the two post relay story but who knows maybe something new. Seeing you will admit its a circuit breaker that make a completely different story here. A circuit breaker is a fuse that resets its self when it gets over loaded. NEVER do away with the circuit breaker or fuse. A fuse protects the wires from burning up and by bypassing it you can end up with another fire. It should have a amperage number on it anywhere from 10A to 30A with most of them are 15A or 20A. Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse that what came with the mower.
 

cambre

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As you could see I wasn't buying the two post relay story but who knows maybe something new. Seeing you will admit its a circuit breaker that make a completely different story here. A circuit breaker is a fuse that resets its self when it gets over loaded. NEVER do away with the circuit breaker or fuse. A fuse protects the wires from burning up and by bypassing it you can end up with another fire. It should have a amperage number on it anywhere from 10A to 30A with most of them are 15A or 20A. Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse that what came with the mower.

Thanks for the answer reynoldston. I will be putting the circuit breaker back on. Also does the ground terminal on the ignition switch go directly to the magneto kill wire? Thanks
 

reynoldston

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Thanks for the answer reynoldston. I will be putting the circuit breaker back on. Also does the ground terminal on the ignition switch go directly to the magneto kill wire? Thanks

No It go's to negative. Which can just be the chassis of the mower. I don't know how your ignition switch is marked but I will just give you a generic run down. G is for ground which can be just the frame of the mower, that is if the negative side of the battery go's to the mower frame. M for Mag. go's to the coil primary or small wire to the coil. A for accessory Lights or accessory's you want to operate with the ignition switch. R to the positive wire that go's to voltage regulator to charge the battery. S to one of the small post of the starter solenoid. If you have two small post on this starter solenoid the post go's to the mower chassis or ground. B for battery this go's to the positive side of the battery or + that is red large battery cable. Without me knowing how your ignition switch is marked this is just a generic guess seeing different manufactory might have different letters and this is the very reason the need for a wiring diagram for your year and model mower. Hope this helps you
 

cambre

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No It go's to negative. Which can just be the chassis of the mower. I don't know how your ignition switch is marked but I will just give you a generic run down. G is for ground which can be just the frame of the mower, that is if the negative side of the battery go's to the mower frame. M for Mag. go's to the coil primary or small wire to the coil. A for accessory Lights or accessory's you want to operate with the ignition switch. R to the positive wire that go's to voltage regulator to charge the battery. S to one of the small post of the starter solenoid. If you have two small post on this starter solenoid the post go's to the mower chassis or ground. B for battery this go's to the positive side of the battery or + that is red large battery cable. Without me knowing how your ignition switch is marked this is just a generic guess seeing different manufactory might have different letters and this is the very reason the need for a wiring diagram for your year and model mower. Hope this helps you

Again thanks for the help. I know very little about wiring engines as all of you can tell. I can overhaul small engines easily, also use to do auto engines and some diesel work in the oil field. I never did like wiring so never did learn it. Since my wiring harness burnt up on my Kohler and I don't need all the saftey switches any more I decided to try to wire it myself with the help of the good people on this forum. I got the ignition switch working and it cranks the engine. Don't have to jump the solenoid to start it. I'm having trouble finding the kill wire off the mag. bertsmobile1 says M= magneto, the small wire from the coil. G= ground which connects to M when ignition is off. I know all this is plain english to you guys. This is why I asked you if the wire off the mag went to the M terminal on the ignition switch. So does two wires go to the M terminal on the ignition switch? Mag kill wire to M on switch and a ground wire to M on switch? Thanks for the help, you are probably getting tired of my questions.
 

reynoldston

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Again thanks for the help. I know very little about wiring engines as all of you can tell. I can overhaul small engines easily, also use to do auto engines and some diesel work in the oil field. I never did like wiring so never did learn it. Since my wiring harness burnt up on my Kohler and I don't need all the saftey switches any more I decided to try to wire it myself with the help of the good people on this forum. I got the ignition switch working and it cranks the engine. Don't have to jump the solenoid to start it. I'm having trouble finding the kill wire off the mag. bertsmobile1 says M= magneto, the small wire from the coil. G= ground which connects to M when ignition is off. I know all this is plain english to you guys. This is why I asked you if the wire off the mag went to the M terminal on the ignition switch. So does two wires go to the M terminal on the ignition switch? Mag kill wire to M on switch and a ground wire to M on switch? Thanks for the help, you are probably getting tired of my questions.

Now you keep adding to it with the word Kohler. Some Kohler's have what they call a smart spark as well as a ignition module. It would help to know what what you are working on.
 

ILENGINE

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If you add in Kohler spark advance then that now includes additional hot wires to the SAM module as well as the ignition modules themselves.
 

motoman

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Cambre, Sometime for self satisfaction pop off the plastic "box" of a relay and you will see they are rather simple. I have also found them surprisingly reliable. You can pop the box on when finished looking. You may know typical price is about $5-$8 on line . These are also readily available at surplus electronics stores online.
 

cambre

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Cambre, Sometime for self satisfaction pop off the plastic "box" of a relay and you will see they are rather simple. I have also found them surprisingly reliable. You can pop the box on when finished looking. You may know typical price is about $5-$8 on line . These are also readily available at surplus electronics stores online.

Thanks motoman, good info.
 
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