Spindles on 48" tiger cub

scagman2

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Do you have an operators/parts manual for your machine? If not, get the machine model and PIN numbers, go to the Scag website, click on manuals, find your machine and download the manual.
As has been mentioned, remove both of the V belts from the deck and spin each rotating component to determine which may be problematic.
To remove a spindle assembly, the blade bolt must be removed first. The spindle pulleys have several parts, the hub, pulley, key and two bolts.
The pulley is set onto the spindle, the hub is then set on lined onto the key, the two bolts draw the pulley up onto the hub and squeeze the hub securing it tightly to the spindle shaft. The reverse will disassemble the pulley for removal. Unless there is corrosion, these pulley components are generally easily removed. With the two bolts removed, tapping on the pulley will loosen it from the hub and it will drop down. The hub, unless there is corrosion, will usually come up and off. If not, then a two or three jaw puller can be used, but protection of the spindle top to prevent damage to it from the puller screw will be needed.
Measure the distance from each pulley to the deck top before removing them so they can be placed back in the same position.
The Scag operators manual has a maintenance schedule that includes the spindles which are to be lubricated with the specified grease at 40 hour intervals. The idler pulleys are a condition change item and any roughness, noise, radial or axial movement is cause to replace them.
The idler/tensioner pulleys have non replaceable ball bearings. The spindles have two tapered roller bearings that are preloaded against each other for smooth turning of the spindle at high RPM.

Thanks M.M. Found out also that the 2 hub bolts can be removed and inserted into 2 extra holes on hub to force hub upward. WILL use penetrating oil the night before spindle replacement later this week. In your previous post you mentioned the hub mounts flush with top of spindle shaft...were you referring to another lawn tractor? My 2003 Tiger cub has roughly 1.5" of spindle shaft above top of hub. If you were referring to your T. cub, wonder why the difference? Thanks much for your input...Happy mowing. :laughing::smile::thumbsup:
 

Mad Mackie

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The position of the pulley hub is machine/model specific. I have used Kroil brand of penetrant for many years and I feel that Kroil is the best performing, but it takes time and frequent reapplications.
Backing off the two bolts some and tapping on them may loosen the pulley from the hub. Try some heat with a propane torch, but bear in mind that all penetrants are flammable.
 

SeniorCitizen

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You folks are describing Browning QD bushings. If they were installed with the correct torque and not allowed to rust the pusher cap screws is all that's needed to remove.
 

scagman2

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You folks are describing Browning QD bushings. If they were installed with the correct torque and not allowed to rust the pusher cap screws is all that's needed to remove.

Am referring to the hub and pulley on my scag spindles...have them soaking in penetrating oil and will attempt tomorrow. Thanks for all input.:cool:
 

scagman2

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Is this not what you have with the exception you have a pulley rather than a sproket. Pay strict attention to torque specs provided in the link.

http://www.martinsprocket.com/docs/default-source/catalog-bushings/qd-bushings-catalog.pdf?sfvrsn=14

Yes it is...thanks. The spindle removal and new install went well after soaking in penetrating oil overnight. Am concerned about grease coming out of top spindle seal after running for 30 minutes. Will have to contact the seller about this. Thanks much...grateful for any advise.
 

SeniorCitizen

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Yes it is...thanks. The spindle removal and new install went well after soaking in penetrating oil overnight. Am concerned about grease coming out of top spindle seal after running for 30 minutes. Will have to contact the seller about this. Thanks much...grateful for any advise.
Glad you got it. That's one of the better ways to fasten this to that and is widely used in industry.

If the assembly was pumped completely full of grease, when the temperature raised ever so slightly the grease expanded and takes the path of least resistance and that seal seemed to be it this time on that one.
 

scagman2

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Glad you got it. That's one of the better ways to fasten this to that and is widely used in industry.

If the assembly was pumped completely full of grease, when the temperature raised ever so slightly the grease expanded and takes the path of least resistance and that seal seemed to be it this time on that one.

So, is it safe to say this is normal and not defective?
 

SeniorCitizen

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So, is it safe to say this is normal and not defective?
I would say normal if it was completely full of grease or had so little air the pressure out weighed the resistance of the seal. There really isn't a way to tell for certain with the test equipment the average mower owner has. I just use the best by guess and by golly too.

In time it should stop ozzing out. May take awhile but I can't see where it it hurting that much except the mess..
 

scagman2

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I would say normal if it was completely full of grease or had so little air the pressure out weighed the resistance of the seal. There really isn't a way to tell for certain with the test equipment the average mower owner has. I just use the best by guess and by golly too.

In time it should stop ozzing out. May take awhile but I can't see where it it hurting that much except the mess..

Wasn't OEM spindles. Scag wants $275.00 each. Got aftermarket. Yes, took 50 pumps from grease gun...was full...pumped until grease came out overflow opposite side of grease fitting. Thanks much for response. Will keep an eye on it before and after each mowing. Regards S.C.:thumbsup::smile::wink:
 
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