No sir. You must have a ground on the starter of some kind. All about current flow.
Snapper won't crank
- Thread starter navydad2022
- Start date
Does the engine seem normal when you yank the pull rope? Turns correctly with compression?
If it doesn't have a fuel solenoid it should start with the pull rope. When you yank the pull start, is the key turned to the on position? All safety's engaged?
If it doesn't have a fuel solenoid it should start with the pull rope. When you yank the pull start, is the key turned to the on position? All safety's engaged?
Slomo, ground is through the starter case. Try this troubleshooting procedure and see if it helps.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2022
- Threads
- 16
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- 149
It has to fuses that l need to check,
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2022
- Threads
- 16
- Messages
- 149
Thank you
Rivets I'll go down your process,as l am not to mechanical incline but l am familiar with the process on what it takes for engine to start.
I’ve used this procedure (tweaked a little for different equipment) for many years. If I’m reading this thread right he’s talking about a problem getting the engine to turn over. That’s why I posted the procedure, but if my assumptions are wrong it’s a waste of time. If I was standing next to the equipment 80% of the time I would figure out the answer in less than an hour, but I’m a thousand miles away so all I can do is give suggestions.
Not if he removed the ground wire.
Here it is again.
navydad2022 said:
I was going to jump the starter to see if it cranks with out the ground wire
What was the outcome of the below suggestion?
Ocean909 I'm going to disconnect kill wire on module to check for spark
Slomo, I’ve just about had it with you. You have very little, if any, understanding about how the different electrical circuits on small engine equipment works. You post things that make no sense if anyone reads the entire thread. In this case I’m assuming that the OP means the kill (ground) wire to the coil module. Your posts most often hurt the chances of anyone solving their problems. Please stay out of any thread which you see “Rivets” in unless you have any proven information to suggest. If you don’t and I see you post bad info I’m going to call you out in a fashion you will not like.
To the OP, please accept my apology for ranting in the middle of your thread, but know I’m here until you solve this problem.
To the OP, please accept my apology for ranting in the middle of your thread, but know I’m here until you solve this problem.