Buying Advice Sears Craftsman PGT 9000 (Evaluation, Comparison & Experience)
- Thread starter trzrtree
- Start date
Just ordered some parts to make a custom broadcast sprayer for my tractor. I purchased a Northern Tool 15 gallon broadcast Sprayer that goes on an ATV. Then I ordered the bottom mounting brackets that are used for the triple bagger attachment. I'll take this and have a local shop add 4 vertical tubes going up to support a platform sized for the sprayer. Add a quick disconnect power and a switch on the dash - I'll be styling while I fight the poison ivy and other broadleaf, mass murdering the tick population and if it happens again - fighting off Red Thread. This should work out to be the cats ***.
Before I go out and buy the kit....
I have the triple bags on the PGT9000. The first couple of cuts were done with the standard blades and of course, no bagging. I am very pleased with the speed and the cut of the PGT9000. It cut my mower time by more than 50%. Great!!!! I'd like to keep this cutting efficiency up so I was considering buying the Mulching kit. Mulch 3 times, bag once and repeat. My question is, how much of a pain in the *** is it to change from a high lift configuration to the mulching kit?
Perhaps the answer is less obvious. Maybe the answer is I should sharpen the blades after 3-4 cuts, (don't know) so if I have the deck off anyway...?
Your advice is welcomed.
RickO
I have the triple bags on the PGT9000. The first couple of cuts were done with the standard blades and of course, no bagging. I am very pleased with the speed and the cut of the PGT9000. It cut my mower time by more than 50%. Great!!!! I'd like to keep this cutting efficiency up so I was considering buying the Mulching kit. Mulch 3 times, bag once and repeat. My question is, how much of a pain in the *** is it to change from a high lift configuration to the mulching kit?
Perhaps the answer is less obvious. Maybe the answer is I should sharpen the blades after 3-4 cuts, (don't know) so if I have the deck off anyway...?
Your advice is welcomed.
RickO
But a Simplicity? Not really a good answer to the question.
I have a lot of respect for this forum because we are all focused on doing the best we can do with what we have and to take the advice for our future purchases/jobs/considerations.
So tell me something positive because aside from that little snip (or given an inside joke) I'm sure you can share me something which is good. (Which is what I would do for you.)
Rick.
I have a lot of respect for this forum because we are all focused on doing the best we can do with what we have and to take the advice for our future purchases/jobs/considerations.
So tell me something positive because aside from that little snip (or given an inside joke) I'm sure you can share me something which is good. (Which is what I would do for you.)
Rick.
RickO, doesn't you manual have a wiring diagram? You can make a 12 volt test light out of wire and a bulb. Or you can pick one up at a auto parts store. They are very cheap. I have a bunch of cheap free multi meter testers from HF. I don't know if you have a store in your area. They are always giving them away with a 20 percent off coupon.
It sounds like the lifting system on these tractors are the biggest problem.
Oh, I'm sure that Simplicty tractors have their glitches and problems too.
Sears tractors have been using non-bearing front wheels for a number of years. Not to worry they will out last the tractor as long as you grease them. My 1977 SS has bearings. My 89 and 96 have plain axcles that are greasable. All of the older units (GT's) were built by Roper.
It sounds like the lifting system on these tractors are the biggest problem.
Oh, I'm sure that Simplicty tractors have their glitches and problems too.
Sears tractors have been using non-bearing front wheels for a number of years. Not to worry they will out last the tractor as long as you grease them. My 1977 SS has bearings. My 89 and 96 have plain axcles that are greasable. All of the older units (GT's) were built by Roper.
Hello Rick...
You should try leaving the mulching blades on when you bag... (some deck designs will bag perfectly using mulching blades, Worth a try out...)
Your earlier question about the engine stopping when getting of the seat... Since the park brake will prevent this, Simply locate the switch on the park brake, (usually on the park brake release)... use a wire tie and tie the switch in the park brake on position... That will keep everything else working normal.... :smile:KennyV
Fastback. No, there wasn't a wiring diagram. I figured it out by tracing the wires back to insure red was power. I wouldn't classify it as a worry, but again - I've seen pretty silly things come out of China. That was where my concern was. (...and to your advice, I bought a cheap multi meter as well. The tool box needed it.
KennyV. Thanks again. You are a wealth of knowledge. (If ever in NH, I owe you a cold one.) So, if mulching blades provide lift as well, you bet, I'll try just running those. I was under the impression that the mulching kit blocked off the discharge shoot. Do you PGT9000 guys know if this is a quick disconnect type thing? Meaning can I go from bagging to mulching EXTERNALLY or do I have to pull the deck to go to mulching, (to add whatever piece?)
Someday I'll post some pictures. I'm working to make you lawn nuts proud.
RickO
KennyV. Thanks again. You are a wealth of knowledge. (If ever in NH, I owe you a cold one.) So, if mulching blades provide lift as well, you bet, I'll try just running those. I was under the impression that the mulching kit blocked off the discharge shoot. Do you PGT9000 guys know if this is a quick disconnect type thing? Meaning can I go from bagging to mulching EXTERNALLY or do I have to pull the deck to go to mulching, (to add whatever piece?)
Someday I'll post some pictures. I'm working to make you lawn nuts proud.
RickO
tankdriver
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2011
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 65
I purchased a PGT900 last year and love it. However, early season bagging is the pits. My discharge always wanted to stop up. A couple things that helped....
Cut late in day when grass is drier, before dew falls.
Keep the underside of the deck clean
Get a set of high lift blades. Made a world of difference.
The blades I got I downloaded the parts manual for the bagger, then ordered the blades that come with it. I hate the 3 in 1 blades. I have never found a compromise anything that does anything well. My high lift move so much more air, it uses about 1/3 more gas than my Gators blades In use to cut everywhere except around the house. I cut a little over 4 acres.
Cut late in day when grass is drier, before dew falls.
Keep the underside of the deck clean
Get a set of high lift blades. Made a world of difference.
The blades I got I downloaded the parts manual for the bagger, then ordered the blades that come with it. I hate the 3 in 1 blades. I have never found a compromise anything that does anything well. My high lift move so much more air, it uses about 1/3 more gas than my Gators blades In use to cut everywhere except around the house. I cut a little over 4 acres.
I was thinking about trying to cut out a section, say about 5.5 by 8.5 in the first chute on the top - big enough to get my hand in there and pull out a grass clog. Put a stainless steel piano hinge on it and some lock down piece. My old tractor was a snap to remove the chute and reach in to clear a clog. The PGT9000 bagger chutes are a royal pain in the rear end to take a part to clear a clog. (...and of course, all clogs are cleared with the motor off.)
Have any of you guys ever thought of making an easy access door to clear clogs? Ideas?
RickO
Have any of you guys ever thought of making an easy access door to clear clogs? Ideas?
RickO