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I shopped hard prior to making my Craftsman PGT 9000 purchase at Sears. I specifically needed an entry level Garden tractor that could not only do more than a typical Rider / Lawn Tractor, but have the necessary power available to pull the steep 2 acre hill on our property... The 28HP PGT 9000 with added Carlisle Heavy Lug rear tires and Sears Craftsman 55lbs rear wheel weights (for a combined $200+ dollars) help this tracotr do it well. -- My dissapointment is in the overall quality & design of this tractor for the $$ and in light of its status as being their "Top of the Line" Professional Garden Tractor, or (PGT).
The PGT 9000 is essentially a Cub Cadet GTX1054, but rather than a 26HP Kohler, you get a 28HP Briggs... By the way, if you need interchangeable parts, you can visit the Cub cadet site and type in GTX1054 for a detailed breakdown of items that will adapt directly to the PGT9000. -- Unfortunately, some of the short comings with this tractor (like the Cub Cadet) lag well behind lower competetive models within its class... For example:
The Deck Lowering System was engineered and designed very poorly. The cables over "plastic" pulleys are just a sorry excuse for a tractor supposed level, again as being offered as "Top of the Line"... The deck is heavy and basically suspended on cables over roller pulleys (what they call: adjustment cable pivots... or what I call Junk!). - The purchase of steel pulleys (approx. $20) will help matters, but even at that, the lowering / raising system on the 54' deck is cumbersome at best, particularly when considered against other brands that use a counter balancing style leverage system which makes the deck all most seem weightless and smooth by comparison (see Husky LGT 2554)
Additionally, the Front Wheels are not even equiped with Roller Bearings! This set up is clearly a cheap short cut. The tractors full weight rides over a greased shaft (axle) through, what best can be described as a wheel barrow rim. (for lack of a better decription). If you do not keep this routinely greased, the axle will wear hard in the underside of the shaft, as well as within the rim, which will inevitably create allot of play and result in needing replaced prematurely. - I tried to find a bearinged replacement, but the cheap shaft design that it rides on has made this very difficult. It would seem that both the axle (shaft) and rim togeter woukld need changed out, but I'm not sure what model/make would fit it, as the Cub Cadet has the same sorry design. -- John Deere LT170 & Husky LGT2554 both have Front Wheel Bearings.
The headlights do not have a seperate on/off switch. - Radio Shack fix w/ connectors ($8)
The steel & plastic hood (John Deere & Cub Cadet have heavy Plastic) tends to flip forward when descending a steep bumpy hill... The loose hood can be firmly secured with Rubber Hood Closures (NAPA $12) and hold down all of the vibration.
Decals routinely come off.. This is yet another cheesy feature. Other mowers/tractors have the decals molded or bonded into the plastic. The PGt 9000 has stickers which pull away from the dash or side rail and will not adhere to the plastic surfaces. - I might also add, depending on where you find this tractor on-line, you will notice images with and without the brush gaurd... I'm told that this is optional, but the adds do not detail this... After weeks of arguing with different the on-line sales reps, they finally agreed that this was an add error and decided to send me one. (not pictured).
It would seem that there are trade offs with every tractor within this class... If you need the extra HP's, this is probably the tractor for you... Many of the short comings can be addressed with a little more ca$h and effort, but others cannot.... If you can afford it and plan on using your tractor more heavily and for more than Lawn Care and Gardening (Tilling, Snow Removal, Hauling) year round, then I would suggest stepping up to a Kubota, John Deere X300 (or greater), or a Cub Cadet 2500 (or greater). These are nearly twice as much, but you get a huge jump in quality and craftmanship for the $$$.
The John Deere LT170, Husky 2554, & Cub Cadet 1054 all have plusses, minuses and trade offs between them too. Study them well before you make your purchase to decide what you feel you can live with or without for your needs. Make sure you can live with it's short comings and in many cases, poor design. I would also recommend going over the unit closely, as those who've assembled it may have jipped you out of a handful of nuts & bolts... trust me on this one.....

trzrtree - welcome to LMF! That was a great detailed review - thanks for posting. I just purchased the same tractor - it was "on sale" for $2800, which they claimed was ~$900 off regular price (of which I was skeptical). I was also looking at the JD X300 and Kubota, but in the end I couldn't justify the cost differential.

I have many of the same observations you have. First and foremost the ridiculous plastic deck pulleys. I posted a request on this forum for experience replacing with metal pulleys, but got no response. So if you do make the replacement please let us know how you did it.

I'm curious how you wired your headlamp switch. I may want to do the same. I don't mind the running lights, per se, but the units are not sealed, so if it rains I'd expect to have blown bulbs. Check out this post from member CajunCub - he has an LXT1046, and replaced his bulbs with HIDs and sealed the units.

I have already had issues with my deck, and had to place a service call today for a repair. The Deck Gear (part number 917-04074) is used to level the deck side-to-side. I think it's an ingenious design, but the part is made of some kind of cheap metal alloy, and one of the teeth on mine sheared off. I got it temporarily fixed but they're coming out to my house to replace it. I have the 3-year full in-home warranty, but they couldn't make it out to perform the repair until MAY 25th!! That's almost a MONTH! Fortunately, they're sending the part to my house so I'll be able to replace it before they come for the service - I'll just have them check everything out and adjust if necessary.

The deck wash system works great. I didn't use it the first couple of times I mowed, and wish I had. After two runs I had caked junk under the deck that needed to be scraped off. Once it's clean though, the deck wash system will keep it clean.

Removing the deck is simple enough on paper, but in reality it's a bit of a hassle. The front stabilizer bar has a bend in it that makes it impossible to get in or out of it's slot without a hammer. The lynch pin that holds it in place is made of the same cheap alloy, and mine is already bent (and likely will shear off soon, so I'm looking for a better-quality replacement).

The steering, as you point out, is funky, due to the design. If you run full speed on pavement the front wheels will track and need constant steering to keep straight. In other words, you can't just let go of the wheel and expect it to go straight. I knew this going in though - like you say if you want full bearings you'll pay almost twice as much for such a tractor.

I had the same observation about the brush guard, but not the same tenacity to fight it out with the sales folks. I tried to order one but it is out of stock - you probably got the last one!

All in all though, I love the tractor. It handles my field like a dream, which I know for a fact most lawn tractors won't. Since I don't have any steep hills I actually like the high CG - sitting up high with the arm rests is very comfortable.


Keep us posted on your experiences/upgrades!

OMG...you long winded Baptist preacher!:laughing: That is too much shit for even my wife to read!:biggrin:

CajunCub said:

OMG...you long winded Baptist preacher!:laughing: That is too much shit for even my wife to read!:biggrin:

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Long-winded. Baptist. Preacher.

One out of three ain't bad! :wink:

OK, I finished reading that...The kind of "lawn mower" that you want has a hood ornament :laughing:

Hi guys. I have about 4 acres to cut and the vanilla brand 42 inch deck/18hp wasn't cutting it. Pun intended. Just bought a PGT9000 w/a triple bagger at Sears for 2864. Sears Essentials is closing some stores and I hit the sale. This is a huge upgrade for me and even with considerations to the downsides, I'm pleased, (but haven't cut yet. I'm located in southern New Hampshire.)

My question for you is, the automatic shut off under the seat has five wires, G-Y-G-G-Y. Does anyone know what to do so the tractor continues to run when I jump off the seat to grab something? I don't want to defeat the tractor shutting down when I get off the seat with the blades engaged, just when it's running without the blades engaged.

Any input please?

Thanks in advance. - RickO

Engaging the "parking break" allows the engine to continue to run while you're dismounted (assuming the PTO is not engaged)...

Thanks for the reply. Yes, in retrospect I did read that in the manual however apparently it didn't sink in. Slightly embarrassed.

Two questions please.

1. In regards to FiddleTownRob, yes engaging the parking brake works (and thank you for the reply) however it is not as ergonomic as I'd like, therefore I would still like to defeat that one particular switch. Again it's G,Y,G,G,Y. Any help here? There's no wiring info with any of the manuals.

2. This is simple but I do not have a multi-meter, (shame on me.) I bought some high power LED work lights that I am mounting on the push bar/bumper. The tractor headlights have a red and green wire. Which one is power?

Thank in advance.

RickO

PS: I know that TYPICALLY red is power and green is ground but the last time I assumed something, even as simple as this, I was wrong. Hence the question.

Just ordered some parts to make a custom broadcast sprayer for my tractor. I purchased a Northern Tool 15 gallon broadcast Sprayer that goes on an ATV. Then I ordered the bottom mounting brackets that are used for the triple bagger attachment. I'll take this and have a local shop add 4 vertical tubes going up to support a platform sized for the sprayer. Add a quick disconnect power and a switch on the dash - I'll be styling while I fight the poison ivy and other broadleaf, mass murdering the tick population and if it happens again - fighting off Red Thread. This should work out to be the cats ***.

Before I go out and buy the kit....

I have the triple bags on the PGT9000. The first couple of cuts were done with the standard blades and of course, no bagging. I am very pleased with the speed and the cut of the PGT9000. It cut my mower time by more than 50%. Great!!!! I'd like to keep this cutting efficiency up so I was considering buying the Mulching kit. Mulch 3 times, bag once and repeat. My question is, how much of a pain in the *** is it to change from a high lift configuration to the mulching kit?

Perhaps the answer is less obvious. Maybe the answer is I should sharpen the blades after 3-4 cuts, (don't know) so if I have the deck off anyway...?

Your advice is welcomed.

RickO

i have a simple answere SIMPLICITY

But a Simplicity? Not really a good answer to the question.

I have a lot of respect for this forum because we are all focused on doing the best we can do with what we have and to take the advice for our future purchases/jobs/considerations.

So tell me something positive because aside from that little snip (or given an inside joke) I'm sure you can share me something which is good. (Which is what I would do for you.)

Rick.

RickO, doesn't you manual have a wiring diagram? You can make a 12 volt test light out of wire and a bulb. Or you can pick one up at a auto parts store. They are very cheap. I have a bunch of cheap free multi meter testers from HF. I don't know if you have a store in your area. They are always giving them away with a 20 percent off coupon.

It sounds like the lifting system on these tractors are the biggest problem.

Oh, I'm sure that Simplicty tractors have their glitches and problems too.

Sears tractors have been using non-bearing front wheels for a number of years. Not to worry they will out last the tractor as long as you grease them. My 1977 SS has bearings. My 89 and 96 have plain axcles that are greasable. All of the older units (GT's) were built by Roper.

RickO said:

Before I go out and buy the kit....

change from a high lift configuration to the mulching kit?

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Hello Rick...
You should try leaving the mulching blades on when you bag... (some deck designs will bag perfectly using mulching blades, Worth a try out...)
Your earlier question about the engine stopping when getting of the seat... Since the park brake will prevent this, Simply locate the switch on the park brake, (usually on the park brake release)... use a wire tie and tie the switch in the park brake on position... That will keep everything else working normal.... :smile:KennyV

Fastback. No, there wasn't a wiring diagram. I figured it out by tracing the wires back to insure red was power. I wouldn't classify it as a worry, but again - I've seen pretty silly things come out of China. That was where my concern was. (...and to your advice, I bought a cheap multi meter as well. The tool box needed it.

KennyV. Thanks again. You are a wealth of knowledge. (If ever in NH, I owe you a cold one.) So, if mulching blades provide lift as well, you bet, I'll try just running those. I was under the impression that the mulching kit blocked off the discharge shoot. Do you PGT9000 guys know if this is a quick disconnect type thing? Meaning can I go from bagging to mulching EXTERNALLY or do I have to pull the deck to go to mulching, (to add whatever piece?)

Someday I'll post some pictures. I'm working to make you lawn nuts proud.

RickO

I purchased a PGT900 last year and love it. However, early season bagging is the pits. My discharge always wanted to stop up. A couple things that helped....

Cut late in day when grass is drier, before dew falls.
Keep the underside of the deck clean
Get a set of high lift blades. Made a world of difference.

The blades I got I downloaded the parts manual for the bagger, then ordered the blades that come with it. I hate the 3 in 1 blades. I have never found a compromise anything that does anything well. My high lift move so much more air, it uses about 1/3 more gas than my Gators blades In use to cut everywhere except around the house. I cut a little over 4 acres.

I was thinking about trying to cut out a section, say about 5.5 by 8.5 in the first chute on the top - big enough to get my hand in there and pull out a grass clog. Put a stainless steel piano hinge on it and some lock down piece. My old tractor was a snap to remove the chute and reach in to clear a clog. The PGT9000 bagger chutes are a royal pain in the rear end to take a part to clear a clog. (...and of course, all clogs are cleared with the motor off.)

Have any of you guys ever thought of making an easy access door to clear clogs? Ideas?

RickO

Triple bagger + grade+ damp grass + 80 F = high oil temp. Watch out.

I take it you experienced something bad happening under these circumstances...?

RickO said:

I take it you experienced something bad happening under these circumstances...?

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My tractor is a DYT 4000 48" deck, Intek 24. The motor came apart twice due to overheating. Unfortunately it only overheats when the bagger system is used as it is advertised mowing grass. I installed an oil temp gauge and have repeatedly observed the oil temp climb ONLY when using the bagger system. Lets hope somehow your engine has a vastly improved fan and shrouding system.

If you want the details look within this forum. There is plenty of text and also pictures of the damaged components. Good luck. :smile:

RickO said:

I was thinking about trying to cut out a section, say about 5.5 by 8.5 in the first chute on the top - big enough to get my hand in there and pull out a grass clog. Put a stainless steel piano hinge on it and some lock down piece. My old tractor was a snap to remove the chute and reach in to clear a clog. The PGT9000 bagger chutes are a royal pain in the rear end to take a part to clear a clog. (...and of course, all clogs are cleared with the motor off.)

Have any of you guys ever thought of making an easy access door to clear clogs? Ideas?

RickO

Click to expand...

Every time I reach down into the chute to dislodge wet grass I note how the designer has stopped your reach at armpit so you cannot put your hand into the (somehow) running blade. If it can happen ( somehow), it will.

Today I saw a model comparable to yours on the showroom floor. Looks like there is just room to drill a 2" hole and install an oil temp gauge next to the clutch knob. Please have someone (?you?) do it.

Oil Temp. No, I haven't.

Different question to you guys.

To remove the deck, one of the steps is to pull the bowtie cotter pin connecting the deck sway rod. Why? I did not do this step as I didn't see any physical connection to the deck. Frankly, I don't get it.

What am I missing here?

RickO

RickO said:

Oil Temp. No, I haven't.

Different question to you guys.

To remove the deck, one of the steps is to pull the bowtie cotter pin connecting the deck sway rod. Why? I did not do this step as I didn't see any physical connection to the deck. Frankly, I don't get it.

What am I missing here?

RickO

Click to expand...

On my DYT 4000 there are 4 pull pins which connect the deck. In each case they do hold the deck to the tractor. There is also a tensioner rod which relaxes or tensions the deck pulley belt . This is shown fairly clearly in my owner's manual (surprise).

Last week I bounced my deck loose. The back hanger came off the spring loaded pin. I knew something was wrong because the rpms on the blades dropped dramatically. Left the field, back in to the garage and that's when I saw the deck wasn't hanging right. Fixed it. No big deal but to the point... I now have it in my brain that if the blades slow down for no reason, it might be the deck. Meaning the pulleys were way out of alingment from the engine PTO pulley. Right or wrong, that's what and how I remember it.

Tonight I'm cutting a rough area. The blade rpms drop big time. Okay, it's rough, I know what happened the last time. Easy fix, shut the machine down, jump off to re-seat the deck - ummmm, it's fine. Crud. Now what the hecks wrong. Back to the garage. Can't find anything wrong. The pulleys are all clear. The deck is in its proper place but the electric PTO for the cutting deck seems to slip. Back to the field to try cutting again. I stopped with the deck engaged and the rpms came right up. Went in to some grass, (normal stuff, not high at all) and the power to the blades (not the engine power) but the pto power seemed to, well, give up. Not sure how to describe it because it wasn't slipping, it wasn't over-loaded.

Anyone ever had a problem with the deck on your machine?

Thanks in advance guys.

RickO

RickO said:

and the power to the blades (not the engine power) but the pto power seemed to, well, give up. Not sure how to describe it because it wasn't slipping, it wasn't over-loaded.



RickO

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RickO if the belts are not slipping the PTO clutch is... check the pulleys to see if they are getting Hot, also check if the clutch is getting Hot... anything slipping Will generate a Lot of heat... :smile:KennyV

KennyV. Thanks much. I did look at the belt and at one point grabbed it. It was warm but not hot. Next time I'll "carefully" touch the PTO to see if it's overly hot. Do you have any experience with doing a PTO repair? I'm not to happy about the thought.

RickO said:

Do you have any experience with doing a PTO repair? I'm not to happy about the thought.

Click to expand...

Have rebuilt/adjusted several other types... Newer ones generally do not lend themselves to rebuilding... Usually a remove & replace item...
That one you have should be a Warner clutch #5219-25, it can be a little difficult to remove, but definitely doable ...
Make SURE the clutch is getting full Voltage, a bad connection will cause them to slip, also a charging system that is not keeping up with the load... A poor ground at the clutch. Anything that keeps it from getting full current Can cause it to slip & that will quickly shorten it's life...

If you have damaged the clutch, replacement is the only good choice, about $200...
With any luck you may discover a low voltage condition Or a corroded clutch connection & ground, causing low current... :smile:KennyV

It's been awhile since I posted about the PTO. Here's the follow up along with a warning.

Last year a weld broke loose on the cutting deck. Sears came and replaced the deck. While installing the deck back on to the tractor, the tech attached the belt guard at the PTO. No big deal but....

The red and black lines that go to the PTO are right next to the screw holding the PTO guard. The tech installed the screw on top of the wires which crushed them and caused a loose connection. It was a low voltage failure as the screw shoulder was (almost) holding the connection.

The info I want to share is simply be sure that line doesn't get pinched when installing the guard. It is very close to that screw location.

Also I'll add; Do not stress that line when installing the belt. When the belt guard is off, the entire PTO assembly will spin. If you put the belt on and turn the PTO to get the belt to seat, you can do potential harm to the PTO connection on the unit itself.

Off to Radio Shack for some red and black 14 gauge to finish the repair. Getting under there is a giant pain in the <rear-end.> Tight for my fat hands and in a position that my body doesn't want to twist to. I could have called Sears to fix but I didn't want to fight the fight when they said that I did it, not them.

Help. Not as done as I thought. The harness was broken approximately at the point where the belt guard attaches but... The connection at the PTO, approximately a quarter inch off the PTO is damaged as well. Not enough wire there to make a splice.

I have two questions. First, the red and black wires go in to a plastic block on the PTO. Is that connection removable or is it a part of the PTO itself? Having a tough time seeing in there due to its location and my old man eye sight. The manual infers the connection isn't removable.

Second, I'm under the tractor trying to remove the bottom (only) bolt that attaches the PTO. I have some vice grips holding the shaft at the top to try to stop the entire unit from spinning while attempting to break this bolt loose. The vice grips just can't do the job to hold the shaft from spinning. I don't see any location to accept a wrench to hold and stop the shaft from spinning. Is the thread a standard thread, meaning counter clockwise to remove? Additionally, any advice or tricks to remove the PTO?

I'd hate to have to buy a two hundred dollar PTO just because of two wires. Worse is calling service to do the job for me because I can't get the bolt out.

The tractor is still under warranty however I'm not sure if they'd cover it.

Advice please.

Thanks in advance.

RickO

Rick, Not familiar with your model, but the stub ends of the wire leads sounds frustrating. I think you are right to make a bench job out of the repair. If the stubs have enough bare copper wire to solder, but not enough to wrap with tape try getting some shrink tubing. H Frt has little bundles in various diameters. If you have not used it the fix could go like this. Slip a length of shrink tubing over the wire lead you solder to the stub for the final connection. Do this before soldering. Keep the solder joint small enough to allow the shrink sleeve to slip over it. Use a heat gun to shrink the tube over the solder/wire connection. Hair dryer might work. Last resort a match or wipe quickly with solder gun tip. HINT: Since you may only have one shot CLEAN THE WIRES TO BE SOLDED. Use alcohol until no stain is seen on the clean wiping rag. I remember the routing is tricky off the clutch.

Yep. Agree but the wire off the PTO is less that a quarter inch. Not enough to left to maintain wire insulation at the PTO and strip to make a solder. ..and agree again on the shrink tubing. I rebuilt a 69 Camaro RS/SS. I've used ten thousand crimps, solder joints and shrink tube. (Okay, maybe not 10 thousand.) To put it bluntly, I'm screwed UNLESS the PTO itself can be rebuilt. Alluding to the plastic connection on the side of the PTO. The manual shows that it is a piece of the PTO itself. Of course that doesn't mean that I can't repair it but given the fact that I can't get the darn thing off it all becomes moot. I've entered a call for service and I believe it should be covered under warranty. (We'll see.) Meanwhile, I have 6 acres to take care of and the old White 42" deck is still running strong but takes FOREVER. Damn sight better than this new machine I'd venture.

RickO said:

Hi guys. I have about 4 acres to cut and the vanilla brand 42 inch deck/18hp wasn't cutting it. Pun intended. Just bought a PGT9000 w/a triple bagger at Sears for 2864. Sears Essentials is closing some stores and I hit the sale. This is a huge upgrade for me and even with considerations to the downsides, I'm pleased, (but haven't cut yet. I'm located in southern New Hampshire.)

My question for you is, the automatic shut off under the seat has five wires, G-Y-G-G-Y. Does anyone know what to do so the tractor continues to run when I jump off the seat to grab something? I don't want to defeat the tractor shutting down when I get off the seat with the blades engaged, just when it's running without the blades engaged.

Any input please?

Thanks in advance. - RickO

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step on brake and lift parking leaver left side , the other side is cruse control on my PGT 9000 bought in Canada and is made by huscvarna made in USA mar. 21 2012 with a kohler courage pro sv 735 engine