Scag Turf Tiger/Kohler Command Pro 27 Frustrations
- Thread starter arussel88
- Start date
Thanks so much. I hate to keep comfirming....but....
Part # 25 707 03-S will work for me? The suggestions are about 50/50...50-I can't convert because my coil (24-584-36) and module (24-584-31) has either already been updgraded by the previous owner or the srevice bulletin doesn't apply to my motor (PA-CH740-0021) /coil/module, 50-use 25 707 03-S.
Would 25 707 03-S upgrade the coils and eliminate the module system?
0Re: Scag Turf Tiger/Kohler Command Pro 27 Frustrations
Here is where things gets complicated. you can get the 24 584 36-s ( 2 wire not 3)modules by themselves for replacement, but the 24 584 31-s SAM is NLA. So if somebody needs just the ignition module then you can get the ignition module but if you need a SAM then you have to order the 25 707 03-s kit. The 25 707 03-s Kit contains 2 new MDI modules, the necessary new kill wire, and a need spade connector to connect to the old kill wire. The old hot wire that went to the SAM gets taped up out of the way and then you remove and throw away the old 24 584 31-s SAM and both of the 24 584 36-s modules.
The different ignition systems are confusing because there was an analog SAM(ASAM) and digital SAM(DSAM) which gets converted to the MDI system. The DSAI system which used 3 wire ignition modules, but no SAM. and now the MDI, which look like normal single wire ignition modules, but you don't have to set an air gap because they are a set position not adjustable ignition module on the newer engines. The conversion kit only is used on the DSAM system.
So when you gave the ignition module part number is doesn't reference the parts bulletin, When you mentioned the SAM part number then that triggered the conversion bulletin. For me when I have an older Kohler with SAM with an ignition problem, I always check the SAM part number against the bulletin to see if it upgrades to the MDI system instead of just replacing the faulty ignition module.
Here is where things gets complicated. you can get the 24 584 36-s ( 2 wire not 3)modules by themselves for replacement, but the 24 584 31-s SAM is NLA. So if somebody needs just the ignition module then you can get the ignition module but if you need a SAM then you have to order the 25 707 03-s kit. The 25 707 03-s Kit contains 2 new MDI modules, the necessary new kill wire, and a need spade connector to connect to the old kill wire. The old hot wire that went to the SAM gets taped up out of the way and then you remove and throw away the old 24 584 31-s SAM and both of the 24 584 36-s modules.
The different ignition systems are confusing because there was an analog SAM(ASAM) and digital SAM(DSAM) which gets converted to the MDI system. The DSAI system which used 3 wire ignition modules, but no SAM. and now the MDI, which look like normal single wire ignition modules, but you don't have to set an air gap because they are a set position not adjustable ignition module on the newer engines. The conversion kit only is used on the DSAM system.
So when you gave the ignition module part number is doesn't reference the parts bulletin, When you mentioned the SAM part number then that triggered the conversion bulletin. For me when I have an older Kohler with SAM with an ignition problem, I always check the SAM part number against the bulletin to see if it upgrades to the MDI system instead of just replacing the faulty ignition module.
Re: 0Re: Scag Turf Tiger/Kohler Command Pro 27 Frustrations
Thanks a bunch. So I bought a leak down tester and will give it a try tomorrow. Something I noticed...On my breather cover, I did not have an "oil sentry" or low oil pressure sensor screwed in to that tiny little hole next to the tube. Just a hex drive bolt. Could this have been bypassed somehow? Also, this is exactly where my leak is coming from.
Thanks a bunch. So I bought a leak down tester and will give it a try tomorrow. Something I noticed...On my breather cover, I did not have an "oil sentry" or low oil pressure sensor screwed in to that tiny little hole next to the tube. Just a hex drive bolt. Could this have been bypassed somehow? Also, this is exactly where my leak is coming from.
So I went ahead and replaced the breather plate...no more oil leaks, that's a win.
I also went ahead and ordered the ignition coil/module replacement kit. I thought it worked but after about 1.5 hours the same thing happened, mower started to lose power.
A few points:
- With each start, the engine cranked for longer than what you would expect but still turned over.
- Even during the hour or so it ran really well, the engine would sound stressed when mowing uphill, but not enough to stall. Flat ground was fine.
- When the engine began to lose power, if I let off the "gas" and disengaged the blades, the engine would roar back to life. I can then reengage and mow for another 20 seconds or so. I could probably repeat this until the yard was finished.
- I noticed the battery gauge went to about -5 when the lose of power would come on.
- Once I decided to call it a day, I disengaged the blades and headed back to the garage with no problems. Full speed, up a rather steep driveway.
I'm going to let er' cool down and do a leak-down test.
Could this have anything to do with the PTO clutch or switch?
I feel like it could be the carburetor but wouldn't the issues begin sooner? Wouldn't issues arise both with blades engaged and while going full speed up a steep driveway?
I also went ahead and ordered the ignition coil/module replacement kit. I thought it worked but after about 1.5 hours the same thing happened, mower started to lose power.
A few points:
- With each start, the engine cranked for longer than what you would expect but still turned over.
- Even during the hour or so it ran really well, the engine would sound stressed when mowing uphill, but not enough to stall. Flat ground was fine.
- When the engine began to lose power, if I let off the "gas" and disengaged the blades, the engine would roar back to life. I can then reengage and mow for another 20 seconds or so. I could probably repeat this until the yard was finished.
- I noticed the battery gauge went to about -5 when the lose of power would come on.
- Once I decided to call it a day, I disengaged the blades and headed back to the garage with no problems. Full speed, up a rather steep driveway.
I'm going to let er' cool down and do a leak-down test.
Could this have anything to do with the PTO clutch or switch?
I feel like it could be the carburetor but wouldn't the issues begin sooner? Wouldn't issues arise both with blades engaged and while going full speed up a steep driveway?
You originally stated that you had 120 psi compression. What is the compression reading when the engine is hot. This could be related to the compression but also has a hint of insufficient fuel flow, or possibly a hint of vapor lock. When this thing is acting up how hot is the carb bowl when you touch it with your hand.
I'll check compression and carb bowl temp tomorrow. I thought about vapor lock but it seems like I wouldn't be able to "save" the engine by backing off the blades. Also, if the engine completely loses power, I can crank it up with no problems. Well....I had some cranking this time but before I changed the coils I had no issues with cranking.
Now that I think of it...even at cold start, with the throttle at "start" position, I barely get any sound of a turn over, it's when I move to "run" that the engine actually turned over. Before the coils, starting in "start" was no problem.
Thanks, I'll check. Wouldn't this cause a complete shutdown? No matter what happens with the power lose, if I disengage the blades..all is corrected and no power issues at all occur.