Where did you find schematic for original controller so you could wire up replacementFor information, I replaced my driving controller because the Ryobi one died just after 260 hrs in my case. I put a generic 3000 watts controller because in my case cost way less 3 to 4 times less and time will tell me if it will be more reliable? The bad, little more complicated to replace the original controller because you need to figure out the new connections needed. Especially the few info I found for Ryobi connection, my mower look like don't have the same color for wire.... The good, I just tryed and it work near as it was before with original Ryobi one, exception made, take care when backing, now I have full power and speed while backing. Another thing, now to get working mower, I must press The reverse enable red light to have working mower. The very good in my wanting list, is now, I have Ebrake when I press little the brake pedal and normal brake when fully depressed. Picture provided is when I was modifying it.
In case someone wanting to know why I replaced it. While driving at full speed on the road as I done it frequently, rear wheel nearly locked, then the mower died. Another symptom, he was very hard to push like if the motor was on brake. Found moving controller was now full short circuit at entrance and outside (Why it was so hard to push) and after opening it, I forgotten to try to fill it, all glued inside. A luck, I had 4 LifePo4 batteries, one of them tripped seeing this short circuit and cut power then my 125amps fuse never needed to blow. It's why needed to disconnect and reconnect to later found this moving driver was now short circuit. Since only 260 hrs and 300$ US + shipping to replace it, I decided to try less costly alternative. In my case I choosed to try this 3000 watts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0..._asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews, why You can see the blue controller in the posted image. As before it pull like 25amps at near full capacity, maybe 2000 watts version will be enough? I choose to not take a chance and it's anyway cost way less in my case compared to Ryobi controller one.
But now I must take care to not forgot to put key in off position because now I don't have the buzzer anymore.
Ryobi RM480E 38" riding mower won't move!
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ApresMaModification
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In this forum, a post, someone published I will call it one version linking to google share if I remember correctly. But to connect it you don't really need this schematic, what I done is I tested all wire needed (And it's why I can say in my case I didn't get exactly the same color). For info, about motor, it's easy, same color at generic driver, same for hall sensor. In my case, color was not the same for the accelerator for the return signal (To not forget, it's a hall sensor then no resistance, then needed to test resistance on both side of the wire to be sure it's the good wire). For forward reverse, I prefer to use a new switch compared to the original. Now I use a (Normal 120 volt light switch) bolted on steering, then I don't need to remove my hand from steering anymore to go to reverse.
On my own Ryobi 480E, I built too a full electric shovel and it's why I already have a lot more hours on it. The moving driver broke at 260hrs, right now I'm already over 300-330 hrs and with generic driver still work as it was before, exception made buzzer and mower need I click the red light to get mower turning. ;-)
Wil TryHarder
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Hi Everyone,
Thanks for all the positive input on this subject.
And thanks to whoever made the service manual available on google.
I have the ‘not moving’ problem. Just I slight jerk forward or backwards and then stops.
I guessed at the drive controller but unfortunately it wasn’t that.
The drive motor is passing the meter test.
But the Hall Sensor is failing its test across yellow green and blue wires, it holding on 5v not switching to 0v as the wheels are turned.
My question, can the hall sensor be replaced or do I have to get a whole new motor?
Thanks in advance.
Wil
Thanks for all the positive input on this subject.
And thanks to whoever made the service manual available on google.
I have the ‘not moving’ problem. Just I slight jerk forward or backwards and then stops.
I guessed at the drive controller but unfortunately it wasn’t that.
The drive motor is passing the meter test.
But the Hall Sensor is failing its test across yellow green and blue wires, it holding on 5v not switching to 0v as the wheels are turned.
My question, can the hall sensor be replaced or do I have to get a whole new motor?
Thanks in advance.
Wil
ApresMaModification
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- Sep 22, 2023
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Good question and I'm curious to know the answer since I didn't dismounted this motor. What I can say is dismount this motor and you will have the answer if there is easy access to those hall sensor with this motor. With my Ebikes, the hall sensor are accessible once dismounted, and this Emower use nearly the same drive as the Ebike.
I'm curious if you share pictures. LOLI bought one, because the hall sensor test I did while I was on the phone with ryobi support failed, it's a small sensor that theoretically can be replaced easily, but they decided you need to replace the motor instead, which when I was trying to figure it out you couldn't buy just the motor, it came with the trans and motor as 1 part, as it turned out it did not help at all.
You are dealing with a substandard company, what I ultimately did was through more money at it, and purchased the drive controller, but had to wait 3 months (basically the whole summer) for it to be restocked. But that fixed it.