Replacing your blades

[Hustler27]

So I still can't get the first blade I tried to replace off yet, but I decided to try the other two. Came off no problem. Image below seems to suggest why not to wait seven years to replace your blades. I'm thinking if I can get the third one off and replace all three, I'll see a difference when I mow again.

 

[Mr. Mower]

You sure will definitely see a difference in mowing once all the blades are replaced with new ones.

Might I suggest the following.....

For that third stubborn blade to be removed, might I suggest using a "breaker bar" to remove the large nut/bolt.

1.) Install the other two new blades first (apply a bit of anti-seize to help prevent the blades from being too difficult to be removed in the future) and first hand tighten the large nut/bolt then apply a torque value setting to it (your manual should show or give a specified torque valve for the blades).

2.) Once the other two new blades are installed, secure one of them with a "secure blade holder" then remove that stubborn large nut/bolt with a good socket and large breaker bar.

Just my $0.02

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[Hustler27]

Didn't know there was such a thing as a blade removal tool! That's beats my chunk of 2x4 for sure. Going to pick one of those up today!

Thanks!

 

[The Chairman]

I often use a visegrips to block the blade from turning.

 

[Hustler27]

I often use a visegrips to block the blade from turning.

That's probably a good idea for the block even so that I'm trying trying to hold the block while I start applying pressure etc. All of these things that don't seem obvious when you replace blades for the first time. Thanks guys.

 

[Hustler27]

And I guess it looks like five years for the blades maybe. Seems like I've had the mower longer than that. Can't get over the shape of the old blades. Looks like they've been sharpened before.

 

[The Chairman]

And I guess it looks like five years for the blades maybe. Seems like I've had the mower longer than that. Can't get over the shape of the old blades. Looks like they've been sharpened before.

I sharpen or replace my blades after just about every mow. Mind you, with almost 11 acres, that's every 8 to 9 hours of mowing. After you replace the blades, check your deck for being level. I use a 3" block of wood on a flat surface to accomplish this.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

A chunk of 2x4 or 4x4 a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 point socket and a 4 foot torque amplifier (pipe) and problem solved.

 

[Hustler27]

4x4 instead of 2x4 is another good idea I should have thought of. Probably have that lying around. Need to see what I have that could work as a pipe.

 

[bertsmobile1]

At lest 3 or 4 times a year A blade bolt has to be cut off.
It is no big deal.
Cut an X through the head then slip a cold chisel into the V of the X and give it a good hard smack.
once the head os off they undo with your fingers, the threads are never rusted in it is always simple over tightening.
In the workshop there is a 1" drive impact wrench and even that fails to remove a bolt 3 or 4 times a year.
In use they self tighten .
for on site there is an 8' length of 2x4 hollow steel tube that gets slipped over the blade, a 1" & 3/4" drive breaker bars so they are 6' & 4' long respectively.
A jack goes under the head of the breker bar so it does not fall off & the other end gets pushed with my legs .