Replacement metal tip for plug wire_Stihl brushcutter (FS 85)?

[Rivets]

I understand that they may be replaced, but my repair is cheaper and can be done by anyone with a bit of mechanical expertise. Plus it is cheaper.

 

[StarTech]

Can't argue with that but a short 5mm lead isn't that expensive either and most by the time the equipment get here these 2 cycle have heat harden those leads. But $0.85 cost for a one foot section of lead isn't that bad either which that lead is shorter than that.

 

[Rivets]

I agree, but as you stated, you must know how to replace it. Also, labor will be more as to do it right you need to remove the coil, plus glue the new lead back in, plus still need to add a new connector. Definitely a difference in cost.

 

[StarTech]

I reckon I can use a penny worth of glue. And I am not that greedy on labor as I don't charge for a hour when it takes five minutes besides I usually having to rework the carbs most of the time. two handhelds are usually done at near cost here as they are what brings the more expensive repairs.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Because the high tension lead is short on these coils the only time I’ve used that style of connector is if someone has failed attaching the spring connector and failed, butchering the end. If I use them I make one adaption. I take a small piece of NiChrome or copper wire, about 1” long, and bend it into a U shape. Push one end into the center of the high tension lead and rest the other end on the outside of the lead. Then I will crimp the connector over the top. If you strip the end back to far you can easily end up with a lead that is too short to connect to the plug properly.

That is the point of using the screw down the wire
Usually the end of the wire will be butchered
The rubber boot is small so will grab the plug and not protrude yet not fall off if the unit is inverted
And of course it is cheap
Because the screw just touches on the plug and the actual boot / cap is what grabs onto the plug you can then pull the cap off the plug all day & all night without damaging the end of the HT lead any more than it already is .
The caps / boots we get down here come with 4 mm or 6 mm holes for the HT lead so it makes a tight fit on the 5mm or 7mm HT cable
This of course will only work with a wire with a solid copper conductor .

 

[bertsmobile1]

I agree, but as you stated, you must know how to replace it. Also, labor will be more as to do it right you need to remove the coil, plus glue the new lead back in, plus still need to add a new connector. Definitely a difference in cost.

I do it with Victa coils because to force Australians to retire their 2 stroke Victas, B & S jacked up the price of new coils to $ 80 Aus , WHOLESALE + 10% GST so over $ 100 to the customer + labour .
And the magneto on a power torque is under the engine ( as is the flywheel ) so it is an engine out job to replace the coils ≈ 1 hour
Before the B &S take over magnetos were $ 15 , wholesale and of course made in China .
The older ones with the external trigger were also $ 15 and the trigger in a metal case was another $ 5 .

 

[RevB]

This is on older Stihl FS85 brushcutter, but any replacement's OK, if it works.
Anyone found a good replacement plug wire, metal CONNECTOR tip [?female terminal] (guess style that “crimps" on outside of wire), w/o buying new wire & boot for this or similar equipment?

(Pic) Orig. has only a 1/4“ long, right-angle piece of wire that punches through plug wire (in one side, out other).

No “crimping” feature (like most auto or lawnmower plug wires) or anything securing the contact tip TO the plug wire outer covering.

The (coiled) part of terminal pulls off of, or -OUT- of the plug wire, just by removing boot.

The OEM (coiled) plug connector is v. hard to get off of plug (no rust/ gunk). Even w/ -just- the plug & tip laying on a bench.

The OEM design, it's V. hard to work the boot off the plug (snaking a bit of wire out of boot) w/o the unsecured 1/4" long "prong" pulling out of wire.
Thanks.

NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black​

Screws on to the existing wire.​

 

[lbrac]

Thanks for link, but I don't really want another 'push-pin stick in the wire' connector.
"bit of dish soap is your friend." Doubt plug connectors need be this tight.

How get soap in, if can't move boot back enough (nor feed slack wire forward), to expose connector?
Maybe other spray lubricants "safe for rubber? (boot is not silicone; prbly not neoprene)

Looking at whole size / config of OEM boot (opening size for wire), fairly sm. dia. (over plug insulator), I'm not sure a std., (replacement) *90 deg*, *crimp-on* plug wire terminal, will fit around the boot's 90. It's near impossible (NO connector attached) to pull the wire around the 90, out the big hole - to crimp on a 90 connector, then push the crimped terminal (long leg) back around the 90.

I failed at grabbing & pull the wire around the v. short 90 (w/ pick tool). Might do it, but likely split the boot. (Maybe a flexible silicone boot or diff configuration).
Depending on (short leg) length of a 90 crimp on, it may *push* thru the sm. hole of boot. Old boot's not stretchy (never was). Maybe electrician's "wire lube."

The way the connector prong just 'push-pins' in side of wire - nothing hold it - except boot wall, seems incredibly cheap.
The link Rivets gave, calls them "marine" plug components.
Looks like the style may be ok, until remove / replace the boot & connector, several times.

How possible to remove boot & connector repeatedly w/o putting pressure on prong sticking in the plug wire.
The hole in wire (& conductor inside wire) will wallow out.
On this Stihl, mess up the end of wire - buy the wire & ? coil unit.

It's been years since I used the type of spark plug cap (Sparky, if I recall correctly) in your picture on my dirt bikes. As I recall, I lubed the wire insulation with motor oil and stuck in into the small end of the cap until it bottomed at the 90 deg. turn. I then used needle nose pliers to reach into the plug end of the cap to pull the plug wire around the 90 deg. turn and out the plug opening. The short 90 deg. end of the coiled wire connector inserts into the underside of the plug wire that gets pulled back into the cap until the plug wire turns the 90 deg. back into the cap w/ the wire coil turned to receive the plug connector. If properly installed, these caps worked well and lasted longer than most OEM caps. See: