Replace engine on Husky Kohler

[bertsmobile1]

Now you are talking total trash
All mowers run between 3200 & 3700.
It is a standard speed WORLD WIDE same as full sized tractors mostly have a 1750 rpm PTO or a 3600 rpm PTO depending upon the implement .
Most singles will happily do 4500 but a lot will toss the little end around 5000 rpm, done way too many racing mower engines to fall for that red herring.
Twins will usually do closer to 5000 rpm before they toss the rod but engine balance ( or lack of it ) can have you bouncing sideways above 4000 rpm.
So now finally we get some tiny hints .
FWIW I have just swapped a SV 620 with a cracked block to a 44 Vanguard in a YTH21k97
Apart from the wiring I had to make new muffler supports when transferring the B & S muffler to the hole the Kohler muffler went into.

Now that you have finally told us what we needed to know in the first place I originally wrote a detailed response .
However when I reread it and your post I decided that as you are being a total pratt, you can work it out for yourself.
So please carry out your threat and go annoy some one else .
You can carry on as much as you like because as soon as I hit the Post button I will hit the ignore button for you because you are not worth the weight of the electrons used to respond in dirty swamp water .

 

[Tbone0106]

My $.02...

Most riding mower makers (at least over the past thirty years or so) that use vertical shaft engines punch their frames with enough holes to accommodate a wide array of suitable engines from different sources, with different bolt patterns. It is rare to have to drill new holes. Most of the time, if you're swapping one brand of engine for another, and the overall configuration is similar, and the horsepower ratings are somewhat close, the crankshaft length and diameter will be the same, or near enough. The electrics are almost never a problem, unless you know nothing about the electrics. Many mower makers -- Cub is a good example -- will use engines from Briggs AND Kohler AND Kawasaki on the same basic model. They specify the electrics so they will match in location and configuration from maker to maker, without modifying the tractor electrics.

In my experience with swapping, it seems I have more trouble getting the silly stuff to work. Exhaust systems can be a real PITA. Cosmetic stuff that is formed around one engine may not work with another. I recently picked up an old Cub RZT42 for $100. The factory engine -- a Briggs 17 hp Intek single -- had a gaping hole in the side of it with a severed connecting rod sticking out of it. Of course, that went on the scrap pile, and I had a spare Kohler 23 hp Courage twin that I thought would look mighty cute behind that seat. Factory deck mounting holes were perfect. Crankshaft length and diameter -- check. Electrics, identical interface. But I had fits because the plastic shroud over the gas tank interfered with the dipstick tube. I had to fabricate a choke cable setup. And I made a dual exhaust system using some galvanized plumbing pipe and a pair of cheap biscuit mufflers. Not counting the twin I had just sitting around, I've got less than 200 bucks in my little zero-turn, and it is the envy of the neighborhood! (Everybody loves that dual-exhaust tone!)