Remove and clean Nikki carburetor on 21R7070039

wnlewis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
60
I'm trying to find a repair manual for the B&S 21R7070039 engine on my Troy Built Series 26J Mini-Rider lawn tractor.

Specifically I need to remove and clean and reinstall the Nikki carburetor.

It appears that two nuts on long bolts hold the carburetor body to the plastic intake manifold.

There is a gravity feed fuel line on the right side of the the carburetor body held in position by a spring clamp.

There is another line (a fuel return line or EGR line?) that goes into the front of the carburetor body.

There has to be a throttle line attachment and maybe a solenoid and wire connector for a solenoid at some location.

From the little I have been able to read (official service manuals - not reprints - of any kind seem hard to find on the internet), the gaskets, O-rings, etc., seem to be very finicky and non-reusable. That means that if you accidentally remove such a thing, you are obligated to buy the whole repair kit - not inexpensive.

The last time that I ran the lawn tractor it ran OK. However, even with SeaFoam gas treatment, after two years, the needles valves are probably stuck shut and gasoline carburetor cleaner does not seem to help.

That means that I probably have to get the carburetor off and at least get carburetor cleaner on the throat surfaces, or maybe soak the carburetor.

If I had an ultrasonic cleaner, I could just dunk it in the tank and let it run for several hours. But I don't. Mine broke some time ago.

So it's manual methods, and learning as much as possible before starting.

Also, is the float (assuming that there is one) hollow plastic, hard foam plastic, or metal? Some float types tend to get fuel logged and have to be/should be replaced.

I've also not dealt with a carburetor for a small engine that has - could have - a solenoid. What complications does that add?

So, back to the original, easier to take care of way to respond to this request: Where do I find a good, detailed service manual?

Thanks for any help.
 

Attachments

  • P5203503A.jpg
    P5203503A.jpg
    623 KB · Views: 9
  • P5203508A.jpg
    P5203508A.jpg
    825.4 KB · Views: 10
  • P5203514A.jpg
    P5203514A.jpg
    540.4 KB · Views: 10
  • P5203520A.jpg
    P5203520A.jpg
    511.6 KB · Views: 11

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
Easiest way to do it is to remove the blower housing.
Take the air filter off & the housing lifts strait up leaving the air horn in place
Take a photo
You then undo the nuts that hold the air horn , pull the breather tube off the back & slide it forward
Take a photo
Now pull the plug out of the solenoid , there is no catch it just pulls strait off, but do not pull on the wires, a pair of pointy nose pliers is good for this.
Take a photo
Next is the studs that hold the carb body onto the manifold.
Take a photo
You will need a deep socket or a very short spanner for this .
Take a photo
Pull the carb back a little then rotate it and the choke rod will slip out of the slot in the control panel.
Take a photo
You then flip the carb to unhook the throttle rod
Take a photo
Finally move the crab to the right so the spring that will end up spearing your finger no matter what you do out of the throttle late on top of the carb.
The manifold can stay on the engine unless you want to replace the O ring which usually only gives trouble on very old engines .
Instructions on cleaning the carb are at out door power info
 

wnlewis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
60
Easiest way to do it is to remove the blower housing.
Take the air filter off & the housing lifts strait up leaving the air horn in place
Take a photo
You then undo the nuts that hold the air horn , pull the breather tube off the back & slide it forward
Take a photo
Now pull the plug out of the solenoid , there is no catch it just pulls strait off, but do not pull on the wires, a pair of pointy nose pliers is good for this.
Take a photo
Next is the studs that hold the carb body onto the manifold.
Take a photo
You will need a deep socket or a very short spanner for this .
Take a photo
Pull the carb back a little then rotate it and the choke rod will slip out of the slot in the control panel.
Take a photo
You then flip the carb to unhook the throttle rod
Take a photo
Finally move the crab to the right so the spring that will end up spearing your finger no matter what you do out of the throttle late on top of the carb.
The manifold can stay on the engine unless you want to replace the O ring which usually only gives trouble on very old engines .
Instructions on cleaning the carb are at out door power info
I very much liked the final part . . . so the spring that will end up spearing your finger no matter what you do . . .:LOL:

A fellow is not a mechanic unless he gets at least one skinned knuckle or bloodied finger.

I will plan to take photos and see if I can do a good writeup.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
The photo is for you when you come to put it back together again.
The most common question we get is "where can I get the cheapest xyz "
The second one is "where does this bit go ?"
 

wnlewis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
60
The photo is for you when you come to put it back together again.
The most common question we get is "where can I get the cheapest xyz "
The second one is "where does this bit go ?"
You may not get anything like that from me.

I thought about writing an illustrated instruction sheet on the procedure. I worked 14 years for AGCO doing technical writing on everything from windrowers to combines to big square balers and the electronic control systems. That's why I asked for manuals.

And if there are none, or I don't like them, I may still write and illustrate the procedure. ;)

Best regards.
 

ILENGINE

Lawn Royalty
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
43
Messages
10,734
Briggs shop manuals are written from the standpoint that you are a trained mechanic with the knowledge to diagnose and work on something. So from a dealer standpoint they are a reference manual not the bible of repair procedures.
 

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
91
Messages
11,493
To remove those long studs you will need a deep well 5/16" (8mm) socket.
 

wnlewis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
60
Briggs shop manuals are written from the standpoint that you are a trained mechanic with the knowledge to diagnose and work on something. So from a dealer standpoint they are a reference manual not the bible of repair procedures.
I needed the information, and didn't want to mess things up, so this is the forum where I asked my question.
 

wnlewis

Active Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
60
With regard to "where can I get the cheapest 'xyz'?" I try to buy the brand that made the machine. It usually turns out better.
 
Top