When the end play of the crank is excessive using the thin sump gasket which is usually .015 Briggs mentioned in some of their old service manuals to use a shim kit and shim the flywheel end of the crankshaft.
This is one of the reasons I measure the crank end play BEFORE removing the sump.
Shimming is not mentioned in any of their later service manuals that I have seen.
I make my own shims from shim stock.
One reason that Briggs recommended shimming the flywheel end of the crankshaft is probably? due to a engine's counterbalance clearance at the sump plate. (and on a vertical shaft engine the crankshaft shim being located at the flywheel end is not exposed to the rotating vertical weight of the flywheel/crank weight which reduces the wear factor on the shim)
I'm not saying that this is your issue but I would check such because if the crank has end play the rod is attempting to slide sides ways at the piston and crank.
I'm wondering:???
You indicated in one of your previous posts that you could seize the rod on the crank journal by just torqueing the rod cap, but it appears that now you are indicating the plasti gauge indicates it's ok and the rod does not seize when the cap is torqued to proper specs?????
If this is what you are indicating, WHAT CHANGED the symptoms????