quality of zero turn cut

Ric

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I would LOVE to mulch; however, that is another expensive option. The mulcher is only one aspect of the expense: the labor at John Deere is at least $300.00.

R/Vicki

You can get a set of the Oregon G3 for around $30.00 There a high lift mulching blade and will do what you need.
 

primerbulb120

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You can get a set of the Oregon G3 for around $30.00 There a high lift mulching blade and will do what you need.

According to my research, Oregon does not make Gator blades for this mower. :frown: Otherwise I would have recommended them, they're great blades. :thumbsup:
 

vicki h

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I wouldn't worry about the chute, it serves a purpose where it's at. As far as sharpening the original blades I wouldn't waste the time. Generally speaking most company's original blades are pretty cheap and will use themselves up pretty quick and if you haven't done anything with the blades since you purchased the mower they probably at this point isn't enough left to sharpen. I know you probably can't answer this but have you check the spindles? Are they sealed bearing or do they need greasing. Another question... what type of grass are you cutting?

Hi -

I don't know what spindles are.....

Kentucky bluegrass, I believe
 

primerbulb120

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Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.

The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.


If your grass is Kentucky Bluegrass, you should be cutting it 3 to 3.5 inches high.
 

RDA.Lawns

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This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.
 

primerbulb120

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This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.

I think the JD will be a great machine once it has better blades. But you're right about the price.
 

Jack17

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This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.

And that is a real possibility! Unlikely, but possible! I, personally, don't believe that Deere employs incompetent designing engineers. However, I have no reason to believe that they don't have incompetent lawyers on their staff! And the lawyers put that chute on it!

Meanwhile, Vicki is waiting for some answers.

Many of you said that this product needs further improvements to make it work. I assume that it does not. So what gives? I'm convinced that there is some operator error involved but lets talk some "assumed" facts. This machine is essentially brand new. I bet that Vicki didn't put 25 hours on last year. What is she got? Like .5 acre, 42" zero turn...that's like 20minutes per mow tops? We all say "slow down, Vicki, slow down" where we should be saying "go faster"! Why? Because that deck (as advertised) was meant to go fast! All I want for Vicki to do is to find some help with adjusting and verifying that her machine is where it needs to be as per OM specs. I want that person to remove chute so Vicki can run that thing up and down her lawn a few times to see if it made any difference. If cut didn't improve...put the chute back on and look into buying a "better" set of blades for it or...simply returning her machine back to JD telling them "its a lemon" and you can shove it.........:biggrin:
 

primerbulb120

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For the millionth time Jack, TAKING THE CHUTE OFF IS NOT GOING TO HELP! The chute is not designed in such a way that it can restrict the discharge of clippings. If you would look at a picture of the mower, you would see what I mean.

The mower has cut poorly since it was new. If Vicki is cutting at a moderate speed with the engine at full throttle and the deck at the correct height, there's a problem with the mower. Solution: sharp high lift blades, part number GX25668. I own a lawn care business and I have done may hours of research and experimentation to determine what makes a mower cut good. Ric and RDA are lawn professionals as well. They know why lift is important and how it improves the quality of cut.

I doubt that the dealership would take back a mower that's already a year old. We're trying to get this mower fixed, not replace it. :thumbsup:
 

vicki h

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Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.

The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.


If your grass is Kentucky Bluegrass, you should be cutting it 3 to 3.5 inches high.

Hi --

Thanks for the info. Do I have to order the part through a John Deere dealer? Or can the repair shop order it?

R/Vicki
 

vicki h

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This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.

Hi -

I chose the John Deere based on the recommendation of my cousin - a farmer - and several others. As my cousin said, "they last forever." I wanted something very reliable.
 
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