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quality of zero turn cut
#1
V
vicki h
V
vicki h
I bought a John Deere zero turn (basic model) based on recommendations. After spending $2400 on the mower, I do not like the quality of the cut. Some rows appear almost shaved, others look like the grass has been pushed down. The latter issue is the most irritating.
I tried running the mower at highest throttle -- no improvement. I talked to the John Deere dealership about a mulcher blade - too expensive. I talked to a client who owns a lawn-mowing business; he suggested having the blades sharpened, even though I just bought the machine last April (2016). Today I went to a lawn mower shop; the proprietor suggested that I buy a blade with a higher lift.
Lawn mowing season is just a few weeks away and I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?
I tried running the mower at highest throttle -- no improvement. I talked to the John Deere dealership about a mulcher blade - too expensive. I talked to a client who owns a lawn-mowing business; he suggested having the blades sharpened, even though I just bought the machine last April (2016). Today I went to a lawn mower shop; the proprietor suggested that I buy a blade with a higher lift.
Lawn mowing season is just a few weeks away and I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?
#2
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
I take it that you have a two (2) blade (or is it 3?) 42" ACCEL DEEP type deck that isn't cutting well?
#3
7394
7394
Mowers should be run at Full Throttle, for best cooling & cut.
I love the cut my lil 4260 TimeCutter does.
I love the cut my lil 4260 TimeCutter does.
#4
V
vicki h
Hi Jack -
I do not know how many blades it has but it has a 42 inch deck. It is the most basic of the zero turns. I can look up the model number tomorrow, if that would help.
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
I take it that you have a two (2) blade (or is it 3?) 42" ACCEL DEEP type deck that isn't cutting well?
Hi Jack -
I do not know how many blades it has but it has a 42 inch deck. It is the most basic of the zero turns. I can look up the model number tomorrow, if that would help.
R/Vicki
#5
V
vicki h
Buddy -
Running at full throttle does not help.
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
Mowers should be run at Full Throttle, for best cooling & cut.
I love the cut my lil 4260 TimeCutter does.
Buddy -
Running at full throttle does not help.
R/Vicki
#6
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
You should be running at full throttle. You may need to slow down on your ground speed!
#7
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
blades don't last forever!!! I change blades more than I change socks lol about every 5 hours I swap blades out on my mowers with a sharpened or new set!!!!!; he suggested having the blades sharpened, even though I just bought the machine last April (2016). Today I went to a lawn mower shop; the proprietor suggested that I buy a blade with a higher lift.
Lawn mowing season is just a few weeks away and I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?
#8
J
Jack17
I was called in on en emergency last night and didn't finish my first reply...sorry. OK, I do not believe that your machine is incapable of a nice cut. Do a few simple "checks and adjustments" first.
1. Tire pressure...make sure that it is where specified by the OM.
2. Make sure that the deck is leveled properly. Follow OM procedure for the adjustments.
3. Take/unbolt the boot/shoot OFF the deck and put it away.
Now, pick a nicest and flattest part of your lawn, hop on it, full throttle/RPMs and start mowing. Go slow at first and watch your cut...report back if still NOT to your satisfaction!
J
Jack17
Hi Jack -
I do not know how many blades it has but it has a 42 inch deck. It is the most basic of the zero turns. I can look up the model number tomorrow, if that would help.
R/Vicki
I was called in on en emergency last night and didn't finish my first reply...sorry. OK, I do not believe that your machine is incapable of a nice cut. Do a few simple "checks and adjustments" first.
1. Tire pressure...make sure that it is where specified by the OM.
2. Make sure that the deck is leveled properly. Follow OM procedure for the adjustments.
3. Take/unbolt the boot/shoot OFF the deck and put it away.
Now, pick a nicest and flattest part of your lawn, hop on it, full throttle/RPMs and start mowing. Go slow at first and watch your cut...report back if still NOT to your satisfaction!
#9
V
vicki h
Hi Jack -
Are you referring to the grass shoot? If so, can it be removed without turning the mower on its side?
Thanks!
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
I was called in on en emergency last night and didn't finish my first reply...sorry. OK, I do not believe that your machine is incapable of a nice cut. Do a few simple "checks and adjustments" first.
1. Tire pressure...make sure that it is where specified by the OM.
2. Make sure that the deck is leveled properly. Follow OM procedure for the adjustments.
3. Take/unbolt the boot/shoot OFF the deck and put it away.
Now, pick a nicest and flattest part of your lawn, hop on it, full throttle/RPMs and start mowing. Go slow at first and watch your cut...report back if still NOT to your satisfaction!
Hi Jack -
Are you referring to the grass shoot? If so, can it be removed without turning the mower on its side?
Thanks!
R/Vicki
#10
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
Vicki, hello, how are you?
My apology to you...I've assumed too much! Please do not do anything I've told you yourself. Please ask for help. A person that you can trust with some mechanical aptitude to do it for you.
My apology to you...I've assumed too much! Please do not do anything I've told you yourself. Please ask for help. A person that you can trust with some mechanical aptitude to do it for you.
#11
V
vicki h
Hi --
Thank you for your post.
I just started using the mower last July. The "pushed down" effect of the cut has been since Day 1 of using the mower.
Actually, I like the mower for its ability to blow all of my autumn leaves into a pile -- beats raking -- but that is not why I bought it.
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
blades don't last forever!!! I change blades more than I change socks lol about every 5 hours I swap blades out on my mowers with a sharpened or new set!!!!!
Hi --
Thank you for your post.
I just started using the mower last July. The "pushed down" effect of the cut has been since Day 1 of using the mower.
Actually, I like the mower for its ability to blow all of my autumn leaves into a pile -- beats raking -- but that is not why I bought it.
R/Vicki
#12
primerbulb120
The person at the mower shop is correct. You need a higher lift blade, and you need to sharpen it at least once per year.
I need to know two things:
1. What model is your mower?
2. How big is your yard?
Regardless of what others say, DO NOT remove the grass chute from your mower. It's there for safety reasons. Removing it will not solve your problem.
primerbulb120
I bought a John Deere zero turn (basic model) based on recommendations. After spending $2400 on the mower, I do not like the quality of the cut. Some rows appear almost shaved, others look like the grass has been pushed down. The latter issue is the most irritating.
I tried running the mower at highest throttle -- no improvement. I talked to the John Deere dealership about a mulcher blade - too expensive. I talked to a client who owns a lawn-mowing business; he suggested having the blades sharpened, even though I just bought the machine last April (2016). Today I went to a lawn mower shop; the proprietor suggested that I buy a blade with a higher lift.
Lawn mowing season is just a few weeks away and I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?
The person at the mower shop is correct. You need a higher lift blade, and you need to sharpen it at least once per year.
I need to know two things:
1. What model is your mower?
2. How big is your yard?
Regardless of what others say, DO NOT remove the grass chute from your mower. It's there for safety reasons. Removing it will not solve your problem.
#13
V
vicki h
Thank you for your interest in my issue. Answers below:
1. Z335E
2. 1/2 acre
V
vicki h
The person at the mower shop is correct. You need a higher lift blade, and you need to sharpen it at least once per year.
I need to know two things:
1. What model is your mower?
2. How big is your yard?
Regardless of what others say, DO NOT remove the grass chute from your mower. It's there for safety reasons. Removing it will not solve your problem.
Thank you for your interest in my issue. Answers below:
1. Z335E
2. 1/2 acre
#14
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Just to clarify, you're still using the blades that came with the mower?
#15
V
vicki h
Yes, that is correct.
V
vicki h
Just to clarify, you're still using the blades that came with the mower?
Yes, that is correct.
#16
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Are you mulching, discharging or bagging the grass?
#17
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
Vicki,
You said that "some rows look shaved (scalped)"...tells me that deck height setting is too close to the ground. You shouldn't be cutting more then 1/3 of a grass height at at the time. You've said that "some rows look like grass was pushed down"...tells me that with the volume of the grass being cut and deck is trying to "process" is simply too much to digest and is clogging up, becoming an inefficient "mulcher" on its own. The extra deep decks are great but a good set of high lift blades to follow thru with this concept is also a must. You've said that you don't want to buy new blades...that's is fine. Have somebody knowledgeable remove the grass shoot for you and it'll help with emptying out grass clippings.
So:
adjust deck height, don't cut too deep, slow down if necessary, remove grass shoot if you can.
You said that "some rows look shaved (scalped)"...tells me that deck height setting is too close to the ground. You shouldn't be cutting more then 1/3 of a grass height at at the time. You've said that "some rows look like grass was pushed down"...tells me that with the volume of the grass being cut and deck is trying to "process" is simply too much to digest and is clogging up, becoming an inefficient "mulcher" on its own. The extra deep decks are great but a good set of high lift blades to follow thru with this concept is also a must. You've said that you don't want to buy new blades...that's is fine. Have somebody knowledgeable remove the grass shoot for you and it'll help with emptying out grass clippings.
So:
adjust deck height, don't cut too deep, slow down if necessary, remove grass shoot if you can.
#18
primerbulb120
Vicki - As I said before, DON'T REMOVE THE GRASS CHUTE!! It's there for safety reasons. Without it, your property is at risk from flying rocks, sticks and other flying debris. In addition, the mower will cover you with grass if the discharge chute is removed. Removing the chute is not going to solve your problem.
Jack - Have you looked at a picture of this mower?? The grass chute is not designed in such a way that it could restrict the discharge.
primerbulb120
Vicki,
You said that "some rows look shaved (scalped)"...tells me that deck height setting is too close to the ground. You shouldn't be cutting more then 1/3 of a grass height at at the time. You've said that "some rows look like grass was pushed down"...tells me that with the volume of the grass being cut and deck is trying to "process" is simply too much to digest and is clogging up, becoming an inefficient "mulcher" on its own. The extra deep decks are great but a good set of high lift blades to follow thru with this concept is also a must. You've said that you don't want to buy new blades...that's is fine. Have somebody knowledgeable remove the grass shoot for you and it'll help with emptying out grass clippings.
So:
adjust deck height, don't cut too deep, slow down if necessary, remove grass shoot if you can.
Vicki - As I said before, DON'T REMOVE THE GRASS CHUTE!! It's there for safety reasons. Without it, your property is at risk from flying rocks, sticks and other flying debris. In addition, the mower will cover you with grass if the discharge chute is removed. Removing the chute is not going to solve your problem.
Jack - Have you looked at a picture of this mower?? The grass chute is not designed in such a way that it could restrict the discharge.
#19
Ric
You should be running the mower at the Highest throttle setting all the time, mowing and transporting. If your looking to buy blades for the mower that will last I'd look into getting a set of Oregon G3 Gator Blades and they will help with the mulching aspect if your concerned with that. What ever blades you buy I'd make sure to stay with the Oregon Blades. The G3 blades are a high-lift mulching Blade for a residential mower.
If you look to go back to the regular or standard Blades for the residential mower they should be replaced yearly or the start of every mowing season and not sharpened. Generally speaking the original blades that come on the mower aren't worth sharpening anyway.
I'd slow down the mowing pace to about half the maximum ground speed of the mower for the best cut and let the mower have time to do the job it was designed to do.
The thing you need to remember with the residential mower as with a commercial is there designed with a bts to only cut so many feet per minute and what happens with most people is they try pushing the mowers to fast and the result is they end up with a terrible looking job, and wonder why.
As Primerbulb 120 already said don't remove the grass chute, it wont help your problem any. A chute is a must to have on any mower.
Ric
I bought a John Deere zero turn (basic model) based on recommendations. After spending $2400 on the mower, I do not like the quality of the cut. Some rows appear almost shaved, others look like the grass has been pushed down. The latter issue is the most irritating.
I tried running the mower at highest throttle -- no improvement. I talked to the John Deere dealership about a mulcher blade - too expensive. I talked to a client who owns a lawn-mowing business; he suggested having the blades sharpened, even though I just bought the machine last April (2016). Today I went to a lawn mower shop; the proprietor suggested that I buy a blade with a higher lift.
Lawn mowing season is just a few weeks away and I have no idea what to do. Any suggestions?
You should be running the mower at the Highest throttle setting all the time, mowing and transporting. If your looking to buy blades for the mower that will last I'd look into getting a set of Oregon G3 Gator Blades and they will help with the mulching aspect if your concerned with that. What ever blades you buy I'd make sure to stay with the Oregon Blades. The G3 blades are a high-lift mulching Blade for a residential mower.
If you look to go back to the regular or standard Blades for the residential mower they should be replaced yearly or the start of every mowing season and not sharpened. Generally speaking the original blades that come on the mower aren't worth sharpening anyway.
I'd slow down the mowing pace to about half the maximum ground speed of the mower for the best cut and let the mower have time to do the job it was designed to do.
The thing you need to remember with the residential mower as with a commercial is there designed with a bts to only cut so many feet per minute and what happens with most people is they try pushing the mowers to fast and the result is they end up with a terrible looking job, and wonder why.
As Primerbulb 120 already said don't remove the grass chute, it wont help your problem any. A chute is a must to have on any mower.
#20
J
Jack17
Point taken...my intention was for testing only.
Vicki...just like primerbulb said DO NOT REMOVE CHUTE!
J
Jack17
Vicki -Jack - Have you looked at a picture of this mower?? The grass chute is not designed in such a way that it could restrict the discharge.
Point taken...my intention was for testing only.
Vicki...just like primerbulb said DO NOT REMOVE CHUTE!
#21
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Okay, looks like we're all on the same page about the discharge chute. :thumbsup: Sorry Jack, didn't realize you meant for testing only.
There is a set of high lift blades available from JD for this mower. However, I need to make sure Vicki isn't trying to mulch before I recommend them. Mulching thick grass with high lift blades will bog the engine and deliver a poor cut quality.
There is a set of high lift blades available from JD for this mower. However, I need to make sure Vicki isn't trying to mulch before I recommend them. Mulching thick grass with high lift blades will bog the engine and deliver a poor cut quality.
#22
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
Yes, discharge chute does nothing to improve your safety! If anything it makes chunks more accurate. I just don't want Vicki to get hurt taking it off. Factories put the chutes in place to prevent people still in the seat sticking their fingers in it to unclog decks while machine's running. So they put a foot long plastic piece on it thinking...problem solved! Not so! Next came seat safety switch:laughing::laughing:. Anyway, keep in mind that these particular decks were engineered with high ground speed cutting in mind. They were build to perform and I happen to agree with Vicki that "she paid good money for it" and that "the blades that came with it should perform as intended" so at the end she should've be forced to buy a special blade to make it work.
#23
Ric
After reading that last post, It doesn't look like were all on the same page to me. Looks like some are confused.:confused2:
Ric
Okay, looks like we're all on the same page about the discharge chute. :thumbsup: Sorry Jack, didn't realize you meant for testing only.
There is a set of high lift blades available from JD for this mower. However, I need to make sure Vicki isn't trying to mulch before I recommend them. Mulching thick grass with high lift blades will bog the engine and deliver a poor cut quality.
After reading that last post, It doesn't look like were all on the same page to me. Looks like some are confused.:confused2:
#24
primerbulb120
:confused2: I didn't realize that's what Jack meant! :confused2:
But we still agree that the discharge chute should not be removed.
primerbulb120
After reading that last post, It doesn't look like were all on the same page to me. Looks like some are confused.:confused2:
:confused2: I didn't realize that's what Jack meant! :confused2:
But we still agree that the discharge chute should not be removed.
#25
V
vicki h
V
vicki h
Hello -
I am not sure to which message I am replying -- I am new at this "thread thing" -- perhaps I am replying to all of them. If so, thank you all for your willingness to help.
I run the mower at full throttle; however, I do not mow quickly -- I take my time. After mowing with a 21" push mower (albeit a good Toro self-mulcher) for years, I enjoy just sitting there on my little tractor with my feet not aching.
Do not worry about my removing the chute -- I don't know how.
Why are the original blades not worth sharpening?
R/Vicki
I am not sure to which message I am replying -- I am new at this "thread thing" -- perhaps I am replying to all of them. If so, thank you all for your willingness to help.
I run the mower at full throttle; however, I do not mow quickly -- I take my time. After mowing with a 21" push mower (albeit a good Toro self-mulcher) for years, I enjoy just sitting there on my little tractor with my feet not aching.
Do not worry about my removing the chute -- I don't know how.
Why are the original blades not worth sharpening?
R/Vicki
#26
primerbulb120
Jack, please educate yourself on the function of a discharge chute before declaring it useless.
I agree that it should have cut perfectly from the day it was new. But unfortunately, that's not the case with many mowers. That's where we come in :biggrin:
primerbulb120
Yes, discharge chute does nothing to improve your safety! If anything it makes chunks more accurate. I just don't want Vicki to get hurt taking it off. Factories put the chutes in place to prevent people still in the seat sticking their fingers in it to unclog decks while machine's running. So they put a foot long plastic piece on it thinking...problem solved! Not so! Next came seat safety switch:laughing::laughing:. Anyway, keep in mind that these particular decks were engineered with high ground speed cutting in mind. They were build to perform and I happen to agree with Vicki that "she paid good money for it" and that "the blades that came with it should perform as intended" so at the end she should've be forced to buy a special blade to make it work.
Jack, please educate yourself on the function of a discharge chute before declaring it useless.
I agree that it should have cut perfectly from the day it was new. But unfortunately, that's not the case with many mowers. That's where we come in :biggrin:
#27
V
vicki h
I am simply discharging the grass - another cause for chagrin. When I went to John Deere to inquire about a bagger, they quoted me $1000.00 for the bagger and labor.
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
Are you mulching, discharging or bagging the grass?
I am simply discharging the grass - another cause for chagrin. When I went to John Deere to inquire about a bagger, they quoted me $1000.00 for the bagger and labor.
R/Vicki
#28
V
vicki h
I would LOVE to mulch; however, that is another expensive option. The mulcher is only one aspect of the expense: the labor at John Deere is at least $300.00.
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
Okay, looks like we're all on the same page about the discharge chute. :thumbsup: Sorry Jack, didn't realize you meant for testing only.
There is a set of high lift blades available from JD for this mower. However, I need to make sure Vicki isn't trying to mulch before I recommend them. Mulching thick grass with high lift blades will bog the engine and deliver a poor cut quality.
I would LOVE to mulch; however, that is another expensive option. The mulcher is only one aspect of the expense: the labor at John Deere is at least $300.00.
R/Vicki
#29
Ric
I wouldn't worry about the chute, it serves a purpose where it's at. As far as sharpening the original blades I wouldn't waste the time. Generally speaking most company's original blades are pretty cheap and will use themselves up pretty quick and if you haven't done anything with the blades since you purchased the mower they probably at this point isn't enough left to sharpen. I know you probably can't answer this but have you check the spindles? Are they sealed bearing or do they need greasing. Another question... what type of grass are you cutting?
Ric
Hello -
I am not sure to which message I am replying -- I am new at this "thread thing" -- perhaps I am replying to all of them. If so, thank you all for your willingness to help.
I run the mower at full throttle; however, I do not mow quickly -- I take my time. After mowing with a 21" push mower (albeit a good Toro self-mulcher) for years, I enjoy just sitting there on my little tractor with my feet not aching.
Do not worry about my removing the chute -- I don't know how.
Why are the original blades not worth sharpening?
R/Vicki
I wouldn't worry about the chute, it serves a purpose where it's at. As far as sharpening the original blades I wouldn't waste the time. Generally speaking most company's original blades are pretty cheap and will use themselves up pretty quick and if you haven't done anything with the blades since you purchased the mower they probably at this point isn't enough left to sharpen. I know you probably can't answer this but have you check the spindles? Are they sealed bearing or do they need greasing. Another question... what type of grass are you cutting?
#30
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Vicki,
Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.
The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.
Also, make sure that you are cutting at the correct height for your grass. I cut most lawns at 3 inches.
Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.
The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.
Also, make sure that you are cutting at the correct height for your grass. I cut most lawns at 3 inches.
#31
Ric
You can get a set of the Oregon G3 for around $30.00 There a high lift mulching blade and will do what you need.
Ric
I would LOVE to mulch; however, that is another expensive option. The mulcher is only one aspect of the expense: the labor at John Deere is at least $300.00.
R/Vicki
You can get a set of the Oregon G3 for around $30.00 There a high lift mulching blade and will do what you need.
#32
primerbulb120
According to my research, Oregon does not make Gator blades for this mower. :frown: Otherwise I would have recommended them, they're great blades. :thumbsup:
primerbulb120
You can get a set of the Oregon G3 for around $30.00 There a high lift mulching blade and will do what you need.
According to my research, Oregon does not make Gator blades for this mower. :frown: Otherwise I would have recommended them, they're great blades. :thumbsup:
#33
V
vicki h
Hi -
I don't know what spindles are.....
Kentucky bluegrass, I believe
V
vicki h
I wouldn't worry about the chute, it serves a purpose where it's at. As far as sharpening the original blades I wouldn't waste the time. Generally speaking most company's original blades are pretty cheap and will use themselves up pretty quick and if you haven't done anything with the blades since you purchased the mower they probably at this point isn't enough left to sharpen. I know you probably can't answer this but have you check the spindles? Are they sealed bearing or do they need greasing. Another question... what type of grass are you cutting?
Hi -
I don't know what spindles are.....
Kentucky bluegrass, I believe
#34
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.
The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.
If your grass is Kentucky Bluegrass, you should be cutting it 3 to 3.5 inches high.
The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.
If your grass is Kentucky Bluegrass, you should be cutting it 3 to 3.5 inches high.
#35
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.
#36
primerbulb120
I think the JD will be a great machine once it has better blades. But you're right about the price.
primerbulb120
This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.
I think the JD will be a great machine once it has better blades. But you're right about the price.
#37
J
Jack17
And that is a real possibility! Unlikely, but possible! I, personally, don't believe that Deere employs incompetent designing engineers. However, I have no reason to believe that they don't have incompetent lawyers on their staff! And the lawyers put that chute on it!
Meanwhile, Vicki is waiting for some answers.
Many of you said that this product needs further improvements to make it work. I assume that it does not. So what gives? I'm convinced that there is some operator error involved but lets talk some "assumed" facts. This machine is essentially brand new. I bet that Vicki didn't put 25 hours on last year. What is she got? Like .5 acre, 42" zero turn...that's like 20minutes per mow tops? We all say "slow down, Vicki, slow down" where we should be saying "go faster"! Why? Because that deck (as advertised) was meant to go fast! All I want for Vicki to do is to find some help with adjusting and verifying that her machine is where it needs to be as per OM specs. I want that person to remove chute so Vicki can run that thing up and down her lawn a few times to see if it made any difference. If cut didn't improve...put the chute back on and look into buying a "better" set of blades for it or...simply returning her machine back to JD telling them "its a lemon" and you can shove it.........:biggrin:
J
Jack17
This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.
And that is a real possibility! Unlikely, but possible! I, personally, don't believe that Deere employs incompetent designing engineers. However, I have no reason to believe that they don't have incompetent lawyers on their staff! And the lawyers put that chute on it!
Meanwhile, Vicki is waiting for some answers.
Many of you said that this product needs further improvements to make it work. I assume that it does not. So what gives? I'm convinced that there is some operator error involved but lets talk some "assumed" facts. This machine is essentially brand new. I bet that Vicki didn't put 25 hours on last year. What is she got? Like .5 acre, 42" zero turn...that's like 20minutes per mow tops? We all say "slow down, Vicki, slow down" where we should be saying "go faster"! Why? Because that deck (as advertised) was meant to go fast! All I want for Vicki to do is to find some help with adjusting and verifying that her machine is where it needs to be as per OM specs. I want that person to remove chute so Vicki can run that thing up and down her lawn a few times to see if it made any difference. If cut didn't improve...put the chute back on and look into buying a "better" set of blades for it or...simply returning her machine back to JD telling them "its a lemon" and you can shove it.........:biggrin:
#38
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
For the millionth time Jack, TAKING THE CHUTE OFF IS NOT GOING TO HELP! The chute is not designed in such a way that it can restrict the discharge of clippings. If you would look at a picture of the mower, you would see what I mean.
The mower has cut poorly since it was new. If Vicki is cutting at a moderate speed with the engine at full throttle and the deck at the correct height, there's a problem with the mower. Solution: sharp high lift blades, part number GX25668. I own a lawn care business and I have done may hours of research and experimentation to determine what makes a mower cut good. Ric and RDA are lawn professionals as well. They know why lift is important and how it improves the quality of cut.
I doubt that the dealership would take back a mower that's already a year old. We're trying to get this mower fixed, not replace it. :thumbsup:
The mower has cut poorly since it was new. If Vicki is cutting at a moderate speed with the engine at full throttle and the deck at the correct height, there's a problem with the mower. Solution: sharp high lift blades, part number GX25668. I own a lawn care business and I have done may hours of research and experimentation to determine what makes a mower cut good. Ric and RDA are lawn professionals as well. They know why lift is important and how it improves the quality of cut.
I doubt that the dealership would take back a mower that's already a year old. We're trying to get this mower fixed, not replace it. :thumbsup:
#39
V
vicki h
Hi --
Thanks for the info. Do I have to order the part through a John Deere dealer? Or can the repair shop order it?
R/Vicki
V
vicki h
Your mower is currently equipped with medium lift blades (part number M170639). For the best cut quality, you need to install high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Your dealer or a local repair shop can do this for you.
The new blades will require sharpening before installation, so make sure your dealer/repair shop sharpens them before installing them. They should have a razor-sharp edge when you get the mower back.
If your grass is Kentucky Bluegrass, you should be cutting it 3 to 3.5 inches high.
Hi --
Thanks for the info. Do I have to order the part through a John Deere dealer? Or can the repair shop order it?
R/Vicki
#40
V
vicki h
Hi -
I chose the John Deere based on the recommendation of my cousin - a farmer - and several others. As my cousin said, "they last forever." I wanted something very reliable.
V
vicki h
This thread is a prime example of a over priced under delivering product. JD isn't the best options available. But if you change your blades to high lift blades you will be happier.
Hi -
I chose the John Deere based on the recommendation of my cousin - a farmer - and several others. As my cousin said, "they last forever." I wanted something very reliable.
#41
Ric
The spindles are what the blades are bolted to and I'm not real sure if they have the fittings so they can be greased or if there sealed bearings or not on that mower. I've been watching this thread since it's beginning and some of the answers are right on but the fact is there are numerous other things or reasons to look at or for as to why the mower is not cutting right.
My recommendation would be to find a dealership with a good service department that you trust and have them check the mower from top to bottom. Look at the spindles, pulleys, belts, tension springs etc. make sure you don't have a bearing issue and make sure the deck is level and have them install new blades. If the mower has been trouble since you purchased it most of what I have suggested should be covered under your 2 year warranty if the mower isn't right with the exception of the new blades. Again as primerbulb120 already stated leave the chute in place unless you want to be open to a lawsuit.
Ric
Hi -
I don't know what spindles are.....
Kentucky bluegrass, I believe
The spindles are what the blades are bolted to and I'm not real sure if they have the fittings so they can be greased or if there sealed bearings or not on that mower. I've been watching this thread since it's beginning and some of the answers are right on but the fact is there are numerous other things or reasons to look at or for as to why the mower is not cutting right.
My recommendation would be to find a dealership with a good service department that you trust and have them check the mower from top to bottom. Look at the spindles, pulleys, belts, tension springs etc. make sure you don't have a bearing issue and make sure the deck is level and have them install new blades. If the mower has been trouble since you purchased it most of what I have suggested should be covered under your 2 year warranty if the mower isn't right with the exception of the new blades. Again as primerbulb120 already stated leave the chute in place unless you want to be open to a lawsuit.
#42
Ric
That's possible. The G3 is a residential blade. I would guess if you if you looked at the blade you could find it in a gator Blade, some of the other people here I believe have used or substituted different Gator blades for there mowers when they didn't have one to fit there mower. At any rate I'd still go with the Oregon blade.There one of the longest wearing blades you'll find.
Ric
According to my research, Oregon does not make Gator blades for this mower. :frown: Otherwise I would have recommended them, they're great blades. :thumbsup:
That's possible. The G3 is a residential blade. I would guess if you if you looked at the blade you could find it in a gator Blade, some of the other people here I believe have used or substituted different Gator blades for there mowers when they didn't have one to fit there mower. At any rate I'd still go with the Oregon blade.There one of the longest wearing blades you'll find.
#43
primerbulb120
You're probably right. My Toro 21" push mower has a Gator G6 blade intended for a John Deere 60" ZTR :laughing:
primerbulb120
That's possible. The G3 is a residential blade. I would guess if you if you looked at the blade you could find it in a gator Blade, some of the other people here I believe have used or substituted different Gator blades for there mowers when they didn't have one to fit there mower. At any rate I'd still go with the Oregon blade.There one of the longest wearing blades you'll find.
You're probably right. My Toro 21" push mower has a Gator G6 blade intended for a John Deere 60" ZTR :laughing:
#44
primerbulb120
The repair shop should be able to order it. In fact, you could order it yourself but the repair shop would still need to sharpen and install it.
Give the repair shop these instructions:
"Install a set of high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Sharpen the blades prior to installing them. After installation, inspect the deck, belt and pulleys to make sure everything is working properly."
primerbulb120
Hi --
Thanks for the info. Do I have to order the part through a John Deere dealer? Or can the repair shop order it?
R/Vicki
The repair shop should be able to order it. In fact, you could order it yourself but the repair shop would still need to sharpen and install it.
Give the repair shop these instructions:
"Install a set of high lift blades (part number GX25668.) Sharpen the blades prior to installing them. After installation, inspect the deck, belt and pulleys to make sure everything is working properly."
#45
J
Jack17
Of course not! But if she's persistent enough maybe they'll put a set of new blades on it for free?
:smile:
J
Jack17
I doubt that the dealership would take back a mower that's already a year old. We're trying to get this mower fixed, not replace it. :thumbsup:
Of course not! But if she's persistent enough maybe they'll put a set of new blades on it for free?
:smile:
#46
Ric
There have been several people here on the forum who found the gator blades for there mowers that would work when there were no listing for there mower. The big thing to remember is that the Gator blades are different widths, weights and thicknesses and designed for a certain size and strength spindles. You may be right in getting the standard blade for Vicki because she probably wont be one to sharpen blades and then she can just replace the blade yearly.
Ric
You're probably right. My Toro 21" push mower has a Gator G6 blade intended for a John Deere 60" ZTR :laughing:
There have been several people here on the forum who found the gator blades for there mowers that would work when there were no listing for there mower. The big thing to remember is that the Gator blades are different widths, weights and thicknesses and designed for a certain size and strength spindles. You may be right in getting the standard blade for Vicki because she probably wont be one to sharpen blades and then she can just replace the blade yearly.
#47
primerbulb120
:thumbsup:
primerbulb120
There have been several people here on the forum who found the gator blades for there mowers that would work when there were no listing for there mower. The big thing to remember is that the Gator blades are different widths, weights and thicknesses and designed for a certain size and strength spindles. You may be right in getting the standard blade for Vicki because she probably wont be one to sharpen blades and then she can just replace the blade yearly.
:thumbsup:
#48
Ric
She can be as persistent as she likes but I doubt it will get her new free blades because there not covered under warranty. They may kick in the labor charge but I'm sure she will pay for the blades.
Ric
Of course not! But if she's persistent enough maybe they'll put a set of new blades on it for free?
:smile:
She can be as persistent as she likes but I doubt it will get her new free blades because there not covered under warranty. They may kick in the labor charge but I'm sure she will pay for the blades.
#49
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
No way are they going to give her a new set of blades. Jack you obviously don't know to much about how dealerships work. Or about solving her problem. Homeowner john Deere mowers aren't well built. In fact their commercial mowers aren't either. Until you purchase a 75+ HP tractor its not a true John Deere . its just sold by them.
#50
Ric
:thumbsup:
Ric
No way are they going to give her a new set of blades. Jack you obviously don't know to much about how dealerships work. Or about solving her problem. Homeowner john Deere mowers aren't well built. In fact their commercial mowers aren't either. Until you purchase a 75+ HP tractor its not a true John Deere . its just sold by them.
:thumbsup:
#51
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
Vicki, just like you've said "Spring is fast approaching." Don't waste anymore of your time on this board looking for answers. Do not listen to me and most definitely don't listen to these "other" guys!!! They all sound like Obama's economic recovery speech..."if you throw more money at me - economy will improve."
Your mower is not even a year old. Take this matter back to the place where you bought it. If he can't help you have him contact Deere and figure it out. Your mower MUST deliver as promised by Deere, configured as it left the assembly line...not requiring you putting money into it.
Your mower is not even a year old. Take this matter back to the place where you bought it. If he can't help you have him contact Deere and figure it out. Your mower MUST deliver as promised by Deere, configured as it left the assembly line...not requiring you putting money into it.