Push mower oil leak Briggs

Rivets

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I agree it’s not the space shuttle, but why would you only fix something halfway and hope it works. If the OP wanted to do it that way, why is he spending time asking how to do things and looking for technical guidance. Is that the way you rebuild you cycle engines? If it is then I guess you policy is “ never time to do it right, always time to do it over. I’ll bet the OP has not even looked at the manual I posted for him. He doesn’t know how to read a feeler gage, but says that the cylinder is within specs and just needs a little cleaning. He doesn’t have tools to grind valves and seats, but is going to get valve clearance back to specs. I doubt it. As I can see now he is just looking to the techs on this site to babysit hum through a rebuild, but still do it his way. Why waste the time of the techs like Bert, Bou, Scrub and myself who are trying to lead him in the right direction, then is listening to someone who thinks because it is just a small engine, why do things the right way. For that reason I will get out of this thread, as I’m not one who likes to see people throw money away. He started with trying to find an oil leak and now is doing a rebuild, but only half way. Good Bye and Good Luck.
 

(Account Closed)

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There's no reason to get upset.

I agree, he hasn't read the manual... Should he-ABSOLUTLY, everything is there.

It's a project, he's learning. If you feel your wasting your time, don't post.


"Just because it's a small engine why do things the right way" ??? I do things the right way.

You gonna put $200 into boring, professional measuring, new piston, rings, valve seats, etc for a $40 engine?

To do it correctly, you would have to... It isn't worth it $ wise because the engine isn't worth much, except to the owner..



I know I'm the new guy here, I guarantee ALL my customers work. Some things (as you know) are not worth the $ fixing and I'll tell the customer that.. The above machine, just a side gasket replacement, piece of cake..

If it burns gas, I work on it...

IE






Echo CS 355t chain saw with blow crankcase stuffer:


Re-assembled WITHOUT A NEW CRANKSHAFT (The incorrect way-NO stuffers)


Fixed, running great and back into service. Saved from the "Parts heap" (as the customer didn't want to spend $100 on a new crank-which would be "the correct way to repair"). Customers happy, saved a $350 machine which gets "dogged" big time daily.

The above commercial machine, Commercial Tree company test video:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/45591828684/
 

Scrubcadet10

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I wonder, is it possible for the tappets to get wore down where they meet the valve and cause the excess clearance?
 

rwomack

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Dec 22, 2018
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I wonder, is it possible for the tappets to get wore down where they meet the valve and cause the excess clearance?

Wow. I didn’t expect that former post. I’m a former professional motocross racer and worked on all of my bikes. I’m in sales now but thought I’d do my dad a favor by trying to salvage an engine that isn’t made anymore.

I’m a DIYr and believe in doing things right or not at all, the very reason I sought help here. You all have been great and I have learned so much just by trying this. I HAVE read the manual. Even with it, questions arise.

The cylinder was checked by a local small engine shop and it is well within clearances. My hang up now is that there appears to be no replaceable valve guides, and the exhaust valve is loose. You can see the hole (guide) is wallowed.

If y’all think my journey should end here, I’m listening. If there is a solution, I’m open. Thank you all for your input.
 

bertsmobile1

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Any cylinder head shop can fit sleeves into the guides.
Now days replacing guides in alloy motorcycle heads is a thing of the past as the inserts have gotten better as has the skills of those who fit them.
Remember new guides = new valves as well.
 

(Account Closed)

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Just a difference of opinion.. ;)


Seems your still "in business"! :smile:
 
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