Poulan Wildthing Chainsaw

[ILENGINE]

The tooth count on the sprocket and the bar don't have to match. Chain to sprocket binding and jumping normally is due to trying to run a different pitch on the sprocket than the chain, or worn sprocket with a new chain. If you just put the chain on the sprocket without the bar and pull the chain back and forth with your hand does it jump and bind or runs smooth. Possibly do the same with the chain on the bar and see if it runs smooth in the bar groove and around the nose.

 

[fayjim2]

Chain runs smoothly around the removed bar and freely around the drive sprocket with no bar. Its when assembled the bind/other issues happen. I still would like to know how much end float if any does the drive sprocket have.Should the thrust washer zero out the float? I,ve looked at every link on the new chain and it looks fine with no minding or bent bars.. Is it possible that the new sprocket was machined wrong?

 

[ILENGINE]

Drive sprocket can have a fair amount of float. Look at how much a rim drive sprocket can move the ring back and forth on the splines. I am wondering if the new bar is too tall for the application causing the chain to slam into the back of the bar instead of feeding smoothly into the slot. Meaning the bar groove is too far above the sprocket tooth causing too much angle on entrance.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I posted bar/chain and sprocket numbers above. Should the sprocket at the end of the bar (7) have same number of teeth as the drive sprocket (6). Should there be any end float on the drive sprocket when assembled and torqued correctly? Why will only walk off the sprocket when rolled backwards and only bind when going forward? While viewing sprockets the other day I noticed several had 6 or 7 teeth under the same part number. My saw is a 18 inch Poulan Wildthing?? There are several different typrs but I can,t figure out the type. I boughtit new in late 90,s

No
The number of teeth in the nose sprocket is determined by the radius of the nose.
A thin trimming bar will have a thin nose & small sprocket while a wide felling saw will have a much wider one,
If the sprocket is the right one & the bar is the right one and the sprocket bearing is good ( should be replaced with the sprocket ) then the last thing is the alignment of the bar
If the bar is not dead true to the sprocket you can get this sort of situations but that normally only happens when ou change a bar in the field & fail to clean the bar area or the tensioning pin is not located properly in the bar.
There is only so much we can do when we have noting to go on but what some one has typed into a forum.

Many times the key is what damage was done which required the repair.
And I would ask why are you changing the bar ?
Bars should be a forever item unless the owners is abusing the saw or the lubrication system has failed .
My personal saw is a Stihl Farm Boss bought in 1982 when I lived in the mountains .
It cut 3 ton of fire wood or me every year for 30 years plus was regularly loaned to the fire man next door during bushfire or for cleaning up storm damage & has been loaned to at least 50 customers since I bought the repair business and it is still on the original bar .
I inherited an 07 Lightening from the 60's with the store stock and that is also a loaned and it still has the original Stihl bar .

So your problem could still be what ever it was that caused you to replace the bar in the first place.

 

[fayjim2]

The bar was worn at the nose area probably from my abuse/use by me. The chain I sharpened many times and there was little left to sharpen. Parts wear o ut even oem and no abuse. Usually 2 tanks of fuel per oil refill. The only thing different this time is that I bought a Husq sprocket with brg installed and a Trilink Bar/Chain assy. I asked about the sprocket and end float that itself takes the chain out of bar alignment?I don,t know maybe its time to dig a hole and just bury it..

 

[fayjim2]

I think I found the culprit. I removed barand chain again. The studs are pulling thru the case causing the bR TO NOT LINE UP CORRECTLY. The engine runs so good should I try to find a replacement case? Where do you suggest I buy one?

 

[StarTech]

Also we need the real model number of the saw. In my shop don't charge chain,bar, and sprocket mismatch; unless, those parts are needed. Customers a lot of the time has the old parts to work from.

I just replaced the sprocket, chain, and bar on a customer's Echo CS-4400 saw and only charged for those items and he getting back his new chain and bar as has another saw they will fit. He had install a 3/8 BNC on a .325 saw setup. Destroyed the clutch drum spur.

 

[StarTech]

I think I found the culprit. I removed barand chain again. The studs are pulling thru the case causing the bR TO NOT LINE UP CORRECTLY. The engine runs so good should I try to find a replacement case? Where do you suggest I buy one?

May not be available or the last one I needed a case for last week wasn't available.