Poulan Pro 1842 STC riding mower won't start

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
91
Messages
11,492
Once aluminum to steel transfer begins, just unjamming it will not fix the problem. All it going to do is to throw a rod threw side of the crankcase. The transfer must be removed and new parts installed. Plus you most likely find that the head gasket is blown which caused the loss of oil in the first place.
 

dmas

Forum Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
9
Usually no
If the top bush runs dry & the crankshaft siezes on it then that will require the crankcase to be machines and a custom bush made and fitted to the crankcase
If you or a friend can do this then it is a viable repair otherwise cost exceeds replacement
If the piston has seized in the bore this can be repaired if the damage to the cylinder is not to great
If the con rod has seized on the crankshaft then usually they can be repaired if the journal is not damaged too much
Continuing to try to force the engine to crank will only do more damage so pull it out & pull it apart .
I have one stupid question. Does engine rotate freely full round or just partial? I will try to pull it apart today to see what is going on. I appreciate help here. Thank you!
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
No
Without the plugs it should be easy to rotate but you will get resistance once every revolution from the valve springs being compressed
 

dmas

Forum Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
9
Once aluminum to steel transfer begins, just unjamming it will not fix the problem. All it going to do is to throw a rod threw side of the crankcase. The transfer must be removed and new parts installed. Plus you most likely find that the head gasket is blown which caused the loss of oil in the first place.
Looks like my connecting is broken. How do you replace it? Please see attached pictures. I was able to push piston in, and there was no issue. But now my engine doesn't rotate to push it out. Any suggestion?
 

Attachments

  • Image1.jpeg
    Image1.jpeg
    263.8 KB · Views: 4
  • image2.jpeg
    image2.jpeg
    261.2 KB · Views: 4

Scrubcadet10

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Threads
266
Messages
6,634
tear the rest of the engine down, unbolt the sump /oil pan cover, and get all the broken pieces out.... hopefully it didn't crack the block or wipe out the camshaft when it went.
inspect the crankshaft journal that the rod bolts to, if there are any gouges and scoring marks, the crank is trash. and then you need to price all parts needed, compared to a new engine.
 

dmas

Forum Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
9
Looks like my connecting is broken. How do you replace it? Please see attached pictures. I was able to push piston in, and there was no issue. But now my engine doesn't rotate to push it out. Any suggestion?
Can you open up from the top and replace or you have to remove the engine and open it from the bottom?
 

dmas

Forum Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
9
tear the rest of the engine down, unbolt the sump /oil pan cover, and get all the broken pieces out.... hopefully it didn't crack the block or wipe out the camshaft when it went.
inspect the crankshaft journal that the rod bolts to, if there are any gouges and scoring marks, the crank is trash. and then you need to price all parts needed, compared to a new engine.
Can you open from the top? Otherwise, I have to take the whole engine out from the body. Is that right way to go?
 

Attachments

  • image 4.jpeg
    image 4.jpeg
    175.7 KB · Views: 4
  • image3.jpeg
    image3.jpeg
    156.4 KB · Views: 4

Scrubcadet10

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Threads
266
Messages
6,634
nope, got to remove the engine.
 

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
91
Messages
11,492
That is a Briggs 310000 series engine. Head gasket was definitely blown. Damage inside can be minor or major just when the rod broke. I have had them to break at startup with only minor to the cylinder block but if running at full rpms take out the cylinder block and other internal items.

There will be aluminum transfer on the crankshaft rod journal. Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to remove it. Instead use Muriatic Acid to remove the aluminum transfer then you check for journal damage. Caution Muriatic Acid can be quite dangerous use indoors as it moisture sensitive and will produce toxic fumes. You use it outdoor with good air flow away from yourself. It also the heavy fumes can damage other items nearby therefore remove all un-needed tools and equipment from the area and rinse everything once the aluminum transfer is removed. This will help neutralize the acid. Afterward oil everything to prevent flash rusting.

And of all things don't get it on the good aluminum areas as it will destroy the aluminum. Plus always seal the acid container so soon as possible as it will produce vapors just sitting there open.
 
Top