Please post DETAIL about your problems!

Rgentry, please post this problem in the Toro forum to get help, very few members will see it here. When you do so, include the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine, so we know the exact model you have.
 
I have 6.5jiangdong engine that runs full out when I start it.ive looked at govenor linkage not sure that it's right,when I hook up spring butterfly opens all the way
 
Rivets said:
Rgentry, please post this problem in the Toro forum to get help, very few members will see it here. When you do so, include the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine, so we know the exact model you have.
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guys- Please re-read this post, if you expect to get any help..
 
hunting404 said:
Re: Not enough fuel to run smoothly

Good afternoon

Our five year old JD L130 is not getting enough fuel to run smoothly. Not sure how many hours are on it. But not a lot for its age. Used 95% of the time for cutting 1.25 acres of level lawn.
It will start with no problem but after a while it sputters. When you look at the fuel filter and it is 1/4 - 1/3 full the engin runs fine. It's when there is almost no fuel visible in the filter that it sputters. The same problem was happening last year so I replaced the Fuel pump, filter and gas cap. It was better for a while then happened again last year. It is happening again this year the first time I fired it up. Have not done the yearly tune up yet this year.
Is there any type of filter / screen at the bottom of the gas tank that could be clogged? Any advice would be great.

Have a great day
Jim
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Many possibilities. I recently corrected a similar problem on a Deere D140, V-twin. Ran perfectly since 2012. One evening, turned off the engine for a few minutes after cutting the grass. Later after cool down attempted to start it to put the tractor away. No start. Checked EVERYthing fuel related. Gas to the pump YES, Gas out of the pump NO. Ok either of 2 possibilities: 1. pump filter (on the pump the gold mesh eye) may be stopped up? Or the pump is worn out. So I removed the pump, installed it on another V twin ( 23hp Kawasaki), which started and ran perfectly with this 2012 original pump.
Before just condemning a pump (or any component for that matter), know that the pump has 3 connections.
Check all 3 (functionally). IS there fuel TO the pump inlet? Yes? IS there pulse to DRIVE the pump? Disconnect the pump outlet line ( that feeds the carb), is it squirting gas OUT when the key is engaged and the motor spinning? NO? Why not?
So I concluded that the issue must be the pulse line.
Either: 1. Pulse line (from valve cover) is clogged, cracked, loose, poorly connected, leaking, etc OR
2. the fuel pump is just not seeing sufficient vacuum/pulse to drive the pump. You can disconnect the pulse line from the pump and put your finger over it while keying the ignition...do you feel the sucking pulse? Strong? Weak? Absent? ( ASIDE - the pulse line sees the pressure changes dynamically occurring inside the crankcase - the variations from the piston cylinder action - just the backside. And this pressure "pulse) communicates into each of the "under valve cover" space). Valve covers poorly sealed, not only an oil mess but also adversely affect vacuum/ pump pulse).
Motor needed a deep clean and tune up anyway, hence removed the topside cowling, valve covers, carb/manifold, plugs, etc. , deep cleaned all the fins, degreased, reset armature gaps, valve clearances, plugs, gaps, torques PER manual, and ENSUREed a solid bead of Permatex on the valve covers to heads contact, reassembled, fresh filters et al. Also installed a new pump (although not necessary).
The dry pump just would not pull sufficiently from the long, UPHILL fuel tank to pump line routing that Deere has designed . So, I was puzzled.
Checked compression and checked leakdown ( both cylinders). Both perfectly well into the Green range. I disconnected the fuel line at the pump inlet, used an auxiliary tank (gravity flow) to the pump inlet (in lieu of the line from the fuel tank) to get the engine started. Started, ran for 5 minutes this way. Shut her down, reconnected the fuel line ( from tank) to the pump as normal. The engine subsequently started without incident, and ran good as new. I suspected that a dry pump might not create sufficient suction, hence decided to "wet the pump" and establish a warm up and fuel draw - continuous from tank to carb.
Moral of the story is: even a perfect pump - needs sufficient vacuum pulse to operate. If there are compression/ leakdown issues, a poorly sealed valve cover, a poor pulse line connection at the valve cover connection, unclamped lines at the pump - any / all of these, even a dirty air filter, may contribute to poor performance, starved or NO fuel delivery.
 
New member here. I guess I posted my problems in my intro. Bought an Ariens EZR 1742 (915013) from neighbor. He got it from a friend that screws up everything he touches. The PTO switch went out so he cut the pigtail off and put a toggle switch in. My problem is I'm not sure about where to run the wires for the new PTO switch I purchased. I found a wiring diagram online. New switch has 3 COM labeled on one side and ABC on the other. There's a connector hanging inside with two blacks and two purple/white stripe wires that he ran a wire to the toggle switch from the purple side but no way can it reach new switch. I don't see it on online schematic. Need help figuring out where to run wires to orriginal connection points.
 
trukman1 said:
New member here. I guess I posted my problems in my intro. Bought an Ariens EZR 1742 (915013) from neighbor. He got it from a friend that screws up everything he touches. The PTO switch went out so he cut the pigtail off and put a toggle switch in. My problem is I'm not sure about where to run the wires for the new PTO switch I purchased. I found a wiring diagram online. New switch has 3 COM labeled on one side and ABC on the other. There's a connector hanging inside with two blacks and two purple/white stripe wires that he ran a wire to the toggle switch from the purple side but no way can it reach new switch. I don't see it on online schematic. Need help figuring out where to run wires to orriginal connection points.
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Truckman
Please post this in a brand new thread
Title it Ariens EZR 1742 Wiring Problem
The post what you have written above in the text

I for one will not bother trying to work with a brand new problem posted where it should not be particularly on a thread that is already 8 pages long .
 
I had the same problem and bypassed the seat switch. Took the 3 wires and wired them all together and put tape on them. ALSO -- once I had to replace the electrical control box for 100 buck on Amazon. Good luck with it.
 
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