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I joined this forum after receiving an email that it existed. I used it to get advice on mower problems. I admit that I have not been on for some time but now that I am again, I'm seeing a lot of frustration from the guys that know and want to help.

They can't help trouble shoot your problem if you don't provide detail of your machine and even more detail of your problem. This forum is awesome and we don't want to lose the guys that can help us out by expecting them to know what is going on when we don't provide them with specifics.

Thanks!

Rooster

John Deere LA 175 lawn tractor will not start

John Deere 175 Lawn tractor Will not start, No spark at spark plugs when turned over by start.
how to check for cause of no spark.

Also need model numbers of the equipment and the engine. "Ariens 824" is NOT the model number of the snowblower. If we don't know what you have, we can not help fix it or find diagrams on it.

Re: Not enough fuel to run smoothly

Good afternoon

Our five year old JD L130 is not getting enough fuel to run smoothly. Not sure how many hours are on it. But not a lot for its age. Used 95% of the time for cutting 1.25 acres of level lawn.
It will start with no problem but after a while it sputters. When you look at the fuel filter and it is 1/4 - 1/3 full the engin runs fine. It's when there is almost no fuel visible in the filter that it sputters. The same problem was happening last year so I replaced the Fuel pump, filter and gas cap. It was better for a while then happened again last year. It is happening again this year the first time I fired it up. Have not done the yearly tune up yet this year.
Is there any type of filter / screen at the bottom of the gas tank that could be clogged? Any advice would be great.

Have a great day
Jim

Re: Not enough fuel to run smoothly

hunting404 said:

Good afternoon

Our five year old JD L130 is not getting enough fuel to run smoothly. Not sure how many hours are on it. But not a lot for its age. Used 95% of the time for cutting 1.25 acres of level lawn.
It will start with no problem but after a while it sputters. When you look at the fuel filter and it is 1/4 - 1/3 full the engin runs fine. It's when there is almost no fuel visible in the filter that it sputters. The same problem was happening last year so I replaced the Fuel pump, filter and gas cap. It was better for a while then happened again last year. It is happening again this year the first time I fired it up. Have not done the yearly tune up yet this year.
Is there any type of filter / screen at the bottom of the gas tank that could be clogged? Any advice would be great.

Have a great day
Jim

Click to expand...

Another possibility is a vacuum situation where it can't pull gas from the tank. When this starts happening, loosen the gas cap and see if there's any change. May take a minute or so, but if that's the case it's usually 'change the cap'.

Re: Not enough fuel to run smoothly

HCBPH said:

Another possibility is a vacuum situation where it can't pull gas from the tank. When this starts happening, loosen the gas cap and see if there's any change. May take a minute or so, but if that's the case it's usually 'change the cap'.

Click to expand...

I had this problem once, had trash in the line itself. New gas line and problem was fixed.

need help with OHv's

first I must say that I am a lot better with a wrench than a keyboard. so if you have trouble with reading my post feel free to comment. I recently acquired (free) a murray lawnmower, with a 12.5 briggs@stratton with ohv . I have cleaned the fuel tank lines and carburetor. I'm missing something because It does not get gas to the plug. This is the first engine with OHV I have ever own. Could someone bring me up to speed? What have I missed?

Re: need help with OHv's

david pollard said:

first I must say that I am a lot better with a wrench than a keyboard. so if you have trouble with reading my post feel free to comment. I recently acquired (free) a murray lawnmower, with a 12.5 briggs@stratton with ohv . I have cleaned the fuel tank lines and carburetor. I'm missing something because It does not get gas to the plug. This is the first engine with OHV I have ever own. Could someone bring me up to speed? What have I missed?

Click to expand...

To verify gas isn't getting to the plug, remove the air filter and put a teaspoon of gas directly into the carburetor. If it doesn't fire and try to start remove the valve cover and check for correct valve operation. A vacuum is required to take gas from the carb to the combustion chamber.

Cub Cadet 1045 wont start

Hello all,

I have a Cub Cadet LT 1045 i bought in 2006 with a Kohler engine.

Last year, on my last mow of the year I ran out of gas. When i put more gas in it, it wouldn't start. Needless to say, i put it away until now.

The tractor will crank but not start. I changed the plug and checked the lines and I am getting gas to the carburetor. When I spray starter fluid it will start and run for a second or two. I checked the fuel solenoid and i hear the click when i turn the key. Now I am not sure what my next move should be and any help would be appreciated.

THANKS

You probably have the main jet stopped up in the carborator from a piece of trash. Pull the float bowl off the carborator and clean the jets. Might just have a few drops of water in the carborator. That would keep it from running. Pulling float bowl and cleaning would help that.

Troy-Bilt Tiller/Cultivator

Troy-bilt tiller/cultivator 144. Small tiller. Oil leaks around crankshaft cover. I cleaned the surfaces and the existing gasket. I applied RTV black, High Temp. One day later after a run, it still leaks a little. No cracks in the white metal crankcase, gasket is not split anyplace. Only use it twice a year, so, no biggie. Specs say mfg year 2005

Re: Hot Wire

When trying to remove the starter from Kubota T1600H I forgot to take the battery wire off of the battery. Everything ok until one wire touched the frame. after the large spark and almost a fire.starter removed checked looked fine. The problem is when I replaced the starter it wan't work.I took it to Auto Zone and the starter checked out ok. It seems to be shorted to the frame. Ouestion how to find where? CHARLES

Carving, you will get more responses if you would repost this thread in the Kubota forum. Not many will see it here. Just a suggestion.

Valve guide Re: Please post DETAIL about your problems!

I have a Kohler 20HP engine with a brokenintake valve guide....actually about 1/3 of the lower part is gone...my question is with minimal wobble should I be able to use head ? Kohler only sells a new head ...guides are not replaceable and valve seating appears OK....Original problem appears to be sludge causing sticking exhaust valve breaking rocker bolt which caused intake valve spring to come off....Im building quite a repair history on this tractor and am ready to take a shortcut.......jw1

This thread was made a "sticky" by the mod. to help new members understand that the people who offer help on this forum need information and the more detailed the better - hence the title.

Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may result in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.

Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out. So please post the numbers in the new topic you start to ask your question. It should be the first thing you write before beginning your question.

Hopefully new members will read and adhere to this thread to make thing easier on all of us and help them get the information they need in a timely manner.

Can't hurt to ask, hopefully they will follow. It deffinently would help us help them.

Rooster7 said:

I joined this forum after receiving an email that it existed. I used it to get advice on mower problems. I admit that I have not been on for some time but now that I am again, I'm seeing a lot of frustration from the guys that know and want to help.

They can't help trouble shoot your problem if you don't provide detail of your machine and even more detail of your problem. This forum is awesome and we don't want to lose the guys that can help us out by expecting them to know what is going on when we don't provide them with specifics.

Thanks!

Rooster

Click to expand...

I have a troy bilt can. lawn mower model 960 or 990 it is O turn, self propelled, elec. start, & 6 speed,. it has a tecumseh engine #ovrm120 spec. 22065h ,engine family, 5tpxs.1951aa,. I think it was built in 2001, I bought it new 2002,. looking for parts manual, on line, I ordered parts today for the engine rebuild but the dealer has not a manual for the model,. so im ordering blind,. any info greatly appreciated de dee

This site may help with a manual.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/Tecumseh/Tecumseh OHV.pdf

Hello,I'm new to this sight.I have a question abought my Dynamark.model number is 5180- 0000,serial number is 095380,code is 9038.Do you know what year this is?Also I'm having trouble with the brakes it will not stop.Is there anway to ajust them?Thankyou for your time.

tractors41 said:

Hello,I'm new to this sight.I have a question abought my Dynamark.model number 5180-0000,serial number 095380,code 9038.Do you know what year this is?Also I'm having trouble with the brakes it will not stop.Is there anway to ajust them?Thankyou for your time.

Click to expand...

WELCOME TO LMF!
We need model numbers and maybe engine numbers to determine the age.
Thanks! :smile:

I have a Scotts S2046 Law Tractor (by John Deere) and the steering wheel does a lot of "skipping," got progressively worse and now you cant really steer it at all. After looking up stuff on the internet, there is a lot of mention of the bushing getting worn out, so I thought I would start small....I finally got the nut off and bolt out of the steering wheel but could never get the steering wheel off. I dropped the deck & put it up on a jack and can see that the steering gear's teeth are extremely worn and some are worn all the way down/off. I have no idea how to get to the steering gear to replace it. Can you take it off from under the tractor or do you have to go from the top/steering wheel? If anyone has some suggestions, I would really appreciate it.

Take a look at this website and I think it will answer many of your questions. Post back if you need more help.

John Deere - Parts Catalog

I have that and it doesn't answer any questions. It does show you pictures and labels all the parts, but doesn't tell you how to get to anything.

It shows that there is a bolt which holds the steering wheel to the shaft. Next you have a cotter pin holding the shaft in place. You should then be able to remove the steering shaft. On some units you may have to remove the steering gear first.

The bolt and nut are removed but the steering wheel wont budge. Apparently a lot people have problems removing the steering wheel with the nut and bolt removed as evidenced by all the questions about it on the internet. The steering gear is what I'm trying to remove/replace. Unfortunately, that picture from the parts catalog doesn't show all the other stuff in the way or how to get to the steering gear. It may take someone who has a John Deere or Scotts, or at least someone who has replaced the steering gear on a JD or Scotts. Thanks for your attempt though.

I have a 2012 Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.288562. 24 HP, V twin engine. I would like to know if it's possible to install a tach on this engine and if so how would I go about it. I am familiar with car tachs and how they hook up, but they use a coil. I think these tractors use a magneto ??? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Cuda

cuda said:

I have a 2012 Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.288562. 24 HP, V twin engine. I would like to know if it's possible to install a tach on this engine and if so how would I go about it. I am familiar with car tachs and how they hook up, but they use a coil. I think these tractors use a magneto ??? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Cuda

Click to expand...

Google Tiny Tac and see if they have something you would like on your new mower.

I was thinking more along the lines of a conventional tach.
Thanks anyway.

I my knowledge there are no conventional tachs available for small engines. Tiny Tacs work great and are easy to install.

I have a 2001 Craftsman LT and sometimes it stalls out on me for no reason. I would just be simply mowing a lawn and it will randomly stall out. It don't chug or nothing, runs smoothly. It just stalls.....

Check your gas, make sure it's fresh and clean.
Check your plug wire for possible grounding out or loose.
An engine needs three things to run , air, fuel and spark if any one of these is not present it won't run.
One more thing, check the fuel bowl for dirt that can foul the carb.
Good luck, Cuda

X-man said:

I have a 2001 Craftsman LT and sometimes it stalls out on me for no reason. I would just be simply mowing a lawn and it will randomly stall out. It don't chug or nothing, runs smoothly. It just stalls.....

Click to expand...

Does it start right back up?
I would look for a bad or loose wire or safety switch.

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If it does not restart until you leave it sit for a while, I found check the coil. It may be opening when it gets hot.

cuda said:

Check your gas, make sure it's fresh and clean.
Check your plug wire for possible grounding out or loose.
An engine needs three things to run , air, fuel and spark if any one of these is not present it won't run.
One more thing, check the fuel bowl for dirt that can foul the carb.
Good luck, Cuda

Click to expand...

The engine may experiencing a form of vapor lock in the carb, this will kill the engine and letting it cool down fixes the problem.

Carscw said:

Does it start right back up?
I would look for a bad or loose wire or safety switch.

Sent from my iPhone using LMF

Click to expand...

Yeah, fires right back up after stalling. It's weird.

I would start it up and wiggle the key switch and the wires and see if it shuts down.
I had one that did the same thing was the key switch.

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I have a 1997 Husqvarna 225L line trimmer. I have rebuilt the engine, new piston assembly (piston, rings, wrist pin and bearing), also have installed a new carburetor. The carburetor jet limiter caps have been removed and misplaced. I can get the thing to start but when I give it gas it bogs out and stalls. Where should I set the jets for initial start up, also the "T" screw? I can keep it running by playing with the choke, but when I release the choke it dies out like not getting gas, or being choked out!

I would start initial setting at 1-1.25 turns out from lightly seated.

Okay, I'm back with another question...
What is this knob for that is on my lawn mower? I have no idea what it is.

X-man said:

Okay, I'm back with another question...
What is this knob for that is on my lawn mower? I have no idea what it is.

Click to expand...

This would be your deck hight adjustment knob.
Turn it clockwise to rise deck turn other way to lower deck hight

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It's called the height adjustment knob.

Did I not just say that????? LOL

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Post on my unit is a little slow, I fix engines not computers.

Rivets said:

Post on my unit is a little slow, I fix engines not computers.

Click to expand...

I figured you did not see my post. And thought I would give you a hard time.

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Sorry if this is in the wrong place to post this it is my first post. Am at a total loss here, and looking for any kind of advice at all.
Equipment: Craftsman DLT 3000 Tractor Kohler Pro 20 V Twin
From the tag on the tractor.

Model CV20S

Spec 65596

Serial 3313918211

OEM Prod # 187052

Family 3KHXS6242GC

Displacement 624

Problem, while cutting grass 2 weeks ago, tractor started smoking really bad. Turned tractor off right away, saw a lot of oil around the front part of the tractor getting on the exhaust system causing the smoke. Let tractor cool totally off approx 2 hours, cleaned up all the oil. Checked the oil and it was very low on the dipstick, however reading was fine before starting cutting. Added oil to tractor, about 3/4 up the full line on the dipstick.Had son start tractor,
Perspective from sitting in the drivers seat of the tractor appeared oil was gushing out of the right valve cover, turned tractor off right away. Did some research and ordered a valve cover gasket, and a cylander head gasket kit. Replaced head gasket, valve cover gasket and both exhaust pipe gaskets this weekend. Torqued everything to spec. Started tractor, started tight up purring like a kitten, and massive oil leak from same valve cover, no difference at all like i didn't do anything. Turned tractor off immedietely. Any ideas at all at what i am missing here???? I know this doesn't mean anything, but have always kept up on regular maintenance, oil changes filter, gas filter, plugs, keep the tractor clean and stored in a weather conditioned shed. I figured by the serial # it is a 2003.

Sorry, but all the questions I'm going to ask may sound very stupid and I don't want to insult you. I have to start some where.

1. Did you make sure that the head and cylinder body were very clean and dry before installing the new head gasket?
2. Did you install the new gasket dry, no oil or sealer on it?
3. Did you torque the head bolts in two steps (half of final specs, then full specs) or in one step (right to full specs)?
4. Were the head bolts installed dry?
5. Did you reset the valve clearances?
6. . Did you make sure that the head and valve cover were very clean and dry before installing the new valve cover gasket?
7. Did you install the new valve cover gasket dry, no oil or sealer on it?
8. Was the second oil leak coming from the gasket between the head and cylinder body or the head and the valve cover?

I know that is a lot of question, but I didn't see what you did or what happened. When I get your answers, I will let you know what I think went wrong.

I am thinking that the plastic valve cover is cracked causing the oil leak, since the gasket was replaced.

could also be a casting flaw in the head, that is near the valve cover. had a Scag last summer that had a casting flaw below the spark plug, that starting leaking after 600 hours.

Rivets said:

Sorry, but all the questions I'm going to ask may sound very stupid and I don't want to insult you. I have to start some where.

1. Did you make sure that the head and cylinder body were very clean and dry before installing the new head gasket?
2. Did you install the new gasket dry, no oil or sealer on it?
3. Did you torque the head bolts in two steps (half of final specs, then full specs) or in one step (right to full specs)?
4. Were the head bolts installed dry?
5. Did you reset the valve clearances?
6. . Did you make sure that the head and valve cover were very clean and dry before installing the new valve cover gasket?
7. Did you install the new valve cover gasket dry, no oil or sealer on it?
8. Was the second oil leak coming from the gasket between the head and cylinder body or the head and the valve cover?

I know that is a lot of question, but I didn't see what you did or what happened. When I get your answers, I will let you know what I think went wrong.

Click to expand...

Rivets, really appreciate the reply, and trust me i feel plenty stupid right now.

1. Yes
2. No sealer or anything on the new head gasket.
3 Yes, 2 step torque, according to specs. Initial, torque 200 in, lb. final torque 370 in. lbs. using the tightening pattern suplied caddy cornered.
4. Applied 30W to the first 4 threads on the head bolts.
5. reset valve clearance and torqued to spec.
6. Yes inspected and cleaned valve cover and dried.
7. Applied a very light coating of 30 W castrol gtx to valve cover gasket and tightened to torque spec. and in order supplied caddy cornered.
8. Appears to be coming from valve cover area, not a drip but sprays when engine started.

ILENGINE said:

I am thinking that the plastic valve cover is cracked causing the oil leak, since the gasket was replaced.

could also be a casting flaw in the head, that is near the valve cover. had a Scag last summer that had a casting flaw below the spark plug, that starting leaking after 600 hours.

Click to expand...

ILENGINE, thanks for the reply, thought i looked at valve cover pretty close when cleaning but can definitely pull and examine closer.

From your answers, only #4 is a mistake, head bolts should always be dry. If the oil is coming from the valve cover I would say you should be ok. I would then agree with ILengine and look at the valve cover and gasket. Also, check to see if the cover is warped.

Just reread your last post and if you see a spray, that should tell you if it is in the gasket area or a crack in the cover. Now I'm wondering why you have enough pressure to cause a spray.

Further update, took the valve cover off again, and examined it closely and it appears to be warped. The valve cover on this engine is plastic. Have just ordered a valve cover kit, that includes new valve cover, gasket and new bolts. Have my fingers crossed on this one. Thanks for all the input will keep you posted. OK, now i feel like a real idiot, removed air filter and carb cover plate. Had son start tractor, while i was crouched down low watching, with the covers removed i had better visibility appears the oil is not spraying out of the valve cover it appears to be spraying further back from the engine, does this lead me back to the head gasket, ??

Rooster7 said:

I joined this forum after receiving an email that it existed. I used it to get advice on mower problems. I admit that I have not been on for some time but now that I am again, I'm seeing a lot of frustration from the guys that know and want to help.

They can't help trouble shoot your problem if you don't provide detail of your machine and even more detail of your problem. This forum is awesome and we don't want to lose the guys that can help us out by expecting them to know what is going on when we don't provide them with specifics.

Thanks!

Rooster

Click to expand...

I have a 1996 craftsman 15.5 ohv. i got the mower running. but now it will not move at all, the part in the back that you pull to move it freely and push in to drive will not take it out of gear to be pushed. idk whats wrong please help!

crafts said:

I have a 1996 craftsman 15.5 ohv. i got the mower running. but now it will not move at all, the part in the back that you pull to move it freely and push in to drive will not take it out of gear to be pushed. idk whats wrong please help!

Click to expand...

crafts had a similar problem with my 2003 craftsman DLT 3000. Turned out to be a stuck break, grass had gotten up underneath the frame and was compressed enough to prevent the brake from releasing, has happened twice to me over the last 10 years, hope that is all it is for you.

Dixon does not move

pulled motor to repair motor and replaced. prior to working on mower moved the freewheel handle to bypass hydrostatic drive. When finished released lever to re engage the hydrostats, and started mower motor runs great, released park brake, and mower will not move forward of backward.

I hope this is how I post. Ok...I have a Briggs engine 125K02-0281-E1 03082559, anyway, I replaced the bottom seal , leaking on blade, . Now, I try to Start it and it won't unless I use starting fluid, just a 1/4th Spray, not a lot, it starts easily then and Runs great. I cleaned the carb, replaced the primer bulb and gasket between filter box and carb,(it pumps Fuel in the carb with 1 pump). I changed the "0" ring connecting the carb to engine, suspecting an air leak. once it is started it will start every time as long as it is hot, (like killing it in thick grass). it starts easily, 1/2 pull. It will not start on "Gas" when it is a cold start. to me, it's like it won't ignite on gas, but does on "Starter fluid".(BTW, a new plug too, tried CJ8, 14,19 seems to make NO difference). HELPPPPP. How do I find my Reply?.. New here and Having problems posting and recieving answers.

Lawn tractor kicks when clutch/brake is released

I have a aw tractor and when i let go of the clutch/brake i kicks and does a mini wheely. Even when you let the clutch off really slow it still does the same thing.

I suspect that your drive belt or drive pulley on the tranny is worn. When was the last time the belt was changed? Also, check the drive idler tension pulley, it may be tight or worn also.

Re: Lawn tractor kicks when clutch/brake is released

sheldonvcooper said:

I have a aw tractor and when i let go of the clutch/brake i kicks and does a mini wheely. Even when you let the clutch off really slow it still does the same thing.

Click to expand...

Did someone put a belt on recently? Is it a MTD? Bent that pulley trying to remove it?

I have a Briggs & Stratton 14hp I/C OHV... spins freely

I have a Briggs & Stratton 14hp I/C OHV 287707-0228-01

I was riding from my neighbor's house after giving them a hand with their lawn. On the way back I opened the throttle up just to see how fast it could go. Bad Move. engine blew suddenly. Flywheel spins freely when turning the key.. Has oil. No oil leaks. No compression at all. Doesnt even sound like piston is moving..

My commander-in-chief witnessed the whole thing and says I can always get a push mower. no... I am isolated in this planet now. I am sorry if I posted this problem in the wrong place using the wrong method. But in dire need of help. Thanks yall!

jbxtex said:

I have a Briggs & Stratton 14hp I/C OHV 287707-0228-01 I was riding from my neighbor's house after giving them a hand with their lawn. On the way back I opened the throttle up just to see how fast it could go. Bad Move. engine blew suddenly. Flywheel spins freely when turning the key.. Has oil. No oil leaks. No compression at all. Doesnt even sound like piston is moving.. My commander-in-chief witnessed the whole thing and says I can always get a push mower. no... I am isolated in this planet now. I am sorry if I posted this problem in the wrong place using the wrong method. But in dire need of help. Thanks yall!

Click to expand...

When using your mower you should always have the throttle up on the little rabbit or on fast.
The first thing to look at would be the flywheel key.
Take the cover off the engine then take the nut and washer off the flywheel. Look and see if the two grooves match up. Turn the flywheel and see if it turns the shaft.
Or you can look under the engine while your better half cranks it over and see if the pulleys move. If they don't move then I will say the key has broke.

Carscw said:

When using your mower you should always have the throttle up on the little rabbit or on fast.
The first thing to look at would be the flywheel key.
Take the cover off the engine then take the nut and washer off the flywheel. Look and see if the two grooves match up. Turn the flywheel and see if it turns the shaft.
Or you can look under the engine while your better half cranks it over and see if the pulleys move. If they don't move then I will say the key has broke.

Click to expand...

Pulleys are moving. Im wondering if I threw a piston rod. I can hear, what I think is, the valves operating when turning the key..

jbxtex said:

Pulleys are moving. Im wondering if I threw a piston rod. I can hear, what I think is, the valves operating when turning the key..

Click to expand...

I would say a rod.
Take the engine off the mower and take the crankcase cover off and have a look.
If the rest of the mower is good then fix the engine or pick up a used engine on Craigslist or eBay.

Re: Valve guide Re: Please post DETAIL about your problems!

jw1 said:

I have a Kohler 20HP engine with a brokenintake valve guide....actually about 1/3 of the lower part is gone...my question is with minimal wobble should I be able to use head ? Kohler only sells a new head ...guides are not replaceable and valve seating appears OK....Original problem appears to be sludge causing sticking exhaust valve breaking rocker bolt which caused intake valve spring to come off....Im building quite a repair history on this tractor and am ready to take a shortcut.......jw1

Click to expand...

When you get it back running, it wouldn't hurt to use some automatic transmission fluid in the fuel tank each time you fill up. This helps to lubricate the valve stems and guides. The main problem here is ethanol fuel and engine heat. Kohler engines tend to have valves failures, usually its the valve seats dislodging from the head.

valve seats loosening, IMO overheat. Put on an oil cooler and oil temp gauge and cool down the machine when sump oil exceeds 280F

Hello i was repairing my John Deere JS63c, i was reparing the tractor starter rope. When everythi g was removed i noticed a small piece yellow/white plastic looking lever. Not sure where it belongs.

Hi, first post. Thanks for having me. I would like to know if bad fuel can cause an oil leak in a push mower.
I have a husky lc221rh. I bought it at Lowes on a deal. They said it had bad gas. It's running but has an oil leak present to the ouside of it. I took it to a husky dealer and they told me since it had bad gas in it once, it may not be covered under the Honda warranty. The lady said bad gas does alot of damage to engines. I could see if there was gas getting into the oil, that may be correct, but its not. I do know that it wreaks havoc on starting and running it. I got a message into Robert, the Honda guy on here and he has been super helpful. I just wonder what you guys think and if they won't cover it, what I should do. I've had the mower two months. Should I try an actual honda dealer or look to fix it or return it. The oil is present around the bottom of the flywheel cover and around the back and sides of the engine housing.

Thanks for your time,
Adam

Hello , I have a brand new Murray lawn mower with a briggs 4.50 E series that won't start I opened up the engine as far as I no the timing has always been dot to dot the compressing release is on the exhaust side I have some popping through carb need help

toro ss5000 timecutter 2012 model engine starts runs when i pull the levers out of park the engine dies put it back in park start it pull out of park dies tested all switches all good

Rgentry, please post this problem in the Toro forum to get help, very few members will see it here. When you do so, include the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine, so we know the exact model you have.

I have 6.5jiangdong engine that runs full out when I start it.ive looked at govenor linkage not sure that it's right,when I hook up spring butterfly opens all the way

I have MTD sv3100 blower vac . Stops running after starting , checked fuel and lines and carb all ok , checked spark plug ok , any suggestions ?

Rivets said:

Rgentry, please post this problem in the Toro forum to get help, very few members will see it here. When you do so, include the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine, so we know the exact model you have.

Click to expand...

guys- Please re-read this post, if you expect to get any help..

hunting404 said:

Re: Not enough fuel to run smoothly

Good afternoon

Our five year old JD L130 is not getting enough fuel to run smoothly. Not sure how many hours are on it. But not a lot for its age. Used 95% of the time for cutting 1.25 acres of level lawn.
It will start with no problem but after a while it sputters. When you look at the fuel filter and it is 1/4 - 1/3 full the engin runs fine. It's when there is almost no fuel visible in the filter that it sputters. The same problem was happening last year so I replaced the Fuel pump, filter and gas cap. It was better for a while then happened again last year. It is happening again this year the first time I fired it up. Have not done the yearly tune up yet this year.
Is there any type of filter / screen at the bottom of the gas tank that could be clogged? Any advice would be great.

Have a great day
Jim

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Many possibilities. I recently corrected a similar problem on a Deere D140, V-twin. Ran perfectly since 2012. One evening, turned off the engine for a few minutes after cutting the grass. Later after cool down attempted to start it to put the tractor away. No start. Checked EVERYthing fuel related. Gas to the pump YES, Gas out of the pump NO. Ok either of 2 possibilities: 1. pump filter (on the pump the gold mesh eye) may be stopped up? Or the pump is worn out. So I removed the pump, installed it on another V twin ( 23hp Kawasaki), which started and ran perfectly with this 2012 original pump.
Before just condemning a pump (or any component for that matter), know that the pump has 3 connections.
Check all 3 (functionally). IS there fuel TO the pump inlet? Yes? IS there pulse to DRIVE the pump? Disconnect the pump outlet line ( that feeds the carb), is it squirting gas OUT when the key is engaged and the motor spinning? NO? Why not?
So I concluded that the issue must be the pulse line.
Either: 1. Pulse line (from valve cover) is clogged, cracked, loose, poorly connected, leaking, etc OR
2. the fuel pump is just not seeing sufficient vacuum/pulse to drive the pump. You can disconnect the pulse line from the pump and put your finger over it while keying the ignition...do you feel the sucking pulse? Strong? Weak? Absent? ( ASIDE - the pulse line sees the pressure changes dynamically occurring inside the crankcase - the variations from the piston cylinder action - just the backside. And this pressure "pulse) communicates into each of the "under valve cover" space). Valve covers poorly sealed, not only an oil mess but also adversely affect vacuum/ pump pulse).
Motor needed a deep clean and tune up anyway, hence removed the topside cowling, valve covers, carb/manifold, plugs, etc. , deep cleaned all the fins, degreased, reset armature gaps, valve clearances, plugs, gaps, torques PER manual, and ENSUREed a solid bead of Permatex on the valve covers to heads contact, reassembled, fresh filters et al. Also installed a new pump (although not necessary).
The dry pump just would not pull sufficiently from the long, UPHILL fuel tank to pump line routing that Deere has designed . So, I was puzzled.
Checked compression and checked leakdown ( both cylinders). Both perfectly well into the Green range. I disconnected the fuel line at the pump inlet, used an auxiliary tank (gravity flow) to the pump inlet (in lieu of the line from the fuel tank) to get the engine started. Started, ran for 5 minutes this way. Shut her down, reconnected the fuel line ( from tank) to the pump as normal. The engine subsequently started without incident, and ran good as new. I suspected that a dry pump might not create sufficient suction, hence decided to "wet the pump" and establish a warm up and fuel draw - continuous from tank to carb.
Moral of the story is: even a perfect pump - needs sufficient vacuum pulse to operate. If there are compression/ leakdown issues, a poorly sealed valve cover, a poor pulse line connection at the valve cover connection, unclamped lines at the pump - any / all of these, even a dirty air filter, may contribute to poor performance, starved or NO fuel delivery.

New member here. I guess I posted my problems in my intro. Bought an Ariens EZR 1742 (915013) from neighbor. He got it from a friend that screws up everything he touches. The PTO switch went out so he cut the pigtail off and put a toggle switch in. My problem is I'm not sure about where to run the wires for the new PTO switch I purchased. I found a wiring diagram online. New switch has 3 COM labeled on one side and ABC on the other. There's a connector hanging inside with two blacks and two purple/white stripe wires that he ran a wire to the toggle switch from the purple side but no way can it reach new switch. I don't see it on online schematic. Need help figuring out where to run wires to orriginal connection points.

My remote control quit working.

trukman1 said:

New member here. I guess I posted my problems in my intro. Bought an Ariens EZR 1742 (915013) from neighbor. He got it from a friend that screws up everything he touches. The PTO switch went out so he cut the pigtail off and put a toggle switch in. My problem is I'm not sure about where to run the wires for the new PTO switch I purchased. I found a wiring diagram online. New switch has 3 COM labeled on one side and ABC on the other. There's a connector hanging inside with two blacks and two purple/white stripe wires that he ran a wire to the toggle switch from the purple side but no way can it reach new switch. I don't see it on online schematic. Need help figuring out where to run wires to orriginal connection points.

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Truckman
Please post this in a brand new thread
Title it Ariens EZR 1742 Wiring Problem
The post what you have written above in the text

I for one will not bother trying to work with a brand new problem posted where it should not be particularly on a thread that is already 8 pages long .

I had the same problem and bypassed the seat switch. Took the 3 wires and wired them all together and put tape on them. ALSO -- once I had to replace the electrical control box for 100 buck on Amazon. Good luck with it.