Please help with parts lookup Kohler CV20

Scrubcadet10

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I do what Ilengine said for cleaning, i've used Permatex Ultra Black, gas and oil resistant and and good for up to 500 degrees farenheit.
apply it, finger tighten all bolts, it usually dries around 1 hour, i then torque bolts to specification, and then let it sit for 24 hours for a full cure before adding oil

 

Kurttb1

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I had a Kohler where the entire engine case came apart in two pieces, I remember thinking it was really weird setup compared to the Briggs V-twin. I believe it had alignment pins which lined up each side to it's opposite/matching side. Most mechanics I know have used the Red I believe it is the High Temp and Oil resistant sealant. He would put the sealant on put the sides together but not tightly leaving a small amount between sides. I think it was 30 min to 1 hr later he would tighten the parts. Someone else may have more info or it may have been covered already I did not read all the post. K
 

Bellcrank

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A Honda engine trainer suggested to install a sealant film that you could smell. These machined case's require very little sealant. Also suggested not to mess with the old sealant. Just apply new sealant . Assuming first sealant was correctly installed.


Permatex® Super “300” Form-A-Gasket

 

yogidabersmom

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I have developed the well documented leak at the sump gasket that looks like it is coming out of the oil filter. I was finally able to get the cleaned up and jumped my safeties so I could actually see it running. The drip is coming down from the sump but is getting blown on the back of the filter mounting plate, then dripping down. I've researched what I need to do to get the engine off and plan on replacing the gasket and the shaft seal. Most things I've read on this caution against replacing the split alignment pin and substitute an alignment pin that doesn't have the split. The gaskets seem to be packaged without this but with an o-ring. I have found a part number for the pin but some of the pictures seem to show a solid pin and some pics still show the split. Can anyone furnish a good Kohler part number for this pin without the split? TIA.
Try Kohler's website: www.kohlerpower.com
 

Rain today.

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I have developed the well documented leak at the sump gasket that looks like it is coming out of the oil filter. I was finally able to get the cleaned up and jumped my safeties so I could actually see it running. The drip is coming down from the sump but is getting blown on the back of the filter mounting plate, then dripping down. I've researched what I need to do to get the engine off and plan on replacing the gasket and the shaft seal. Most things I've read on this caution against replacing the split alignment pin and substitute an alignment pin that doesn't have the split. The gaskets seem to be packaged without this but with an o-ring. I have found a part number for the pin but some of the pictures seem to show a solid pin and some pics still show the split. Can anyone furnish a good Kohler part number for this pin without the split? TIA.
I have a 2005 Dixie Chopper with a Kohler 20S and that engine uses a gasket. Without the gasket there is no crankshaft end play and the engine will not turnover.
 

StarTech

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I have a 2005 Dixie Chopper with a Kohler 20S and that engine uses a gasket. Without the gasket there is no crankshaft end play and the engine will not turnover.
That why we always need the complete engine numbers including spec (type) numbers not just the model number. Different specs have different setup at times. Many of the CV20 don't have oil pan gasket but a few do as we can now see with the spec number being provided.
 

louky1150

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As a follow up, I completed this job, using the gasket, day before yesterday. The old gasket was very brittle, and you could see where it was compromised around the locating pin near the oil filter. Started up with no issues and no leaks so far. It looks like Kohler has been changing things, probably trying to address this problem. I found reference on YT to a Kohler part number 24 041 54-S which was packaged with the gasket and a new, solid locating pin. This part number has been superseded by 24 041 66-S which is packaged with the gasket and an O-ring (and no locating pin). When I looked at the manual, it shows the rtv application pattern going around an O-ring, and also filling a "groove" between 2 points on the casting. My engine had no groove, and no seat for the O'ring. I asked the part dealer for a solid locating pin, but they didn't stock ANY of the locating pins. What pushed me over the edge to go back with the gasket was reading about all the color coded shims available to achieve proper clearances. I feared exactly what Rain today mentioned in his post above. Thanks so much for all the input from everyone.
 
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