okay did some testing this morning and found B terminal on key switch is getting 12v. with key off B to S gets 10.96. With key to run B to S has .20v. And with key to start B to S has 0v. i will recheck valve clearance but i have set set them once. the fuse is getting 12.5v as well. following the wire diagram the white wire on the solenoid passes through the Pto switch and brake switch before getting to the solenoid. Is the key switch working and i get no reading on the other terminal of the solenoid. Also the small terminals on the solenoid read 10.12v and i read 0v across the 2 large terminals. And i tried between starter and neut and get nothing.
You really need a wiring diagram.
I know some people have difficulty reading wiring diagrams so I will go through things in a general way.
Power comes to the ignition switch via a fuesed wire from the hot solenoid wire to the B = battery terminal on the starting switch. ( as yours does )
Key turned to Start the switch connects the B & S ( S=start or solenoid if you like ) terminals. ( as yours seems to be doing )
From there the battery voltage goes through some of the safety switches ending up at the trigger wire on the solenoid, where it still should be 12 V ( in relation to earth ).
Starter solenoids come is a variety of types some will switch on the starter motor if they get any voltage at the trigger terminal while others will not trip unless they see more than a specific voltage at the trigger terminal . ( as your does not seem to be doing properly )
This is done to protect the starter motor from low voltage starts which will draw higher amps than the motor can handle.
There are two independent safety circuits.
One prevents the engine from cranking and the other earths out the magneto & prevents the engine from running.
Some of the switches will be in both circuits and some are connected to each other. Some work in a line A to B to C to D etc while others work independently .
If you want us to help you then please do the actual tests that we ask you to do.
I know that is a PIA as several will reply each with a different set of tests but that is because we are here and the mower is there.
Most of us have set order that we test in determined from past experiences and taylored to the equipment being tested and the tools we have at hand.
If you want my help you will need to make some jumper leads with female spade terminals at each end .
Mine are 4" 6" 1' 3' & 5' long. these are used to selectively bypass / test each safety switch &/or all of the safety switches.
So every one else who is looking at this thread can follow what is happening please reply to a specific set of tests by using the "reply with quote" button at the right side of the screen so your replies will look like this one.
That way others can analyse what is happening and chime in with useful information or ideas.
Now to start with, because Husqvarna have made over 100 different models we really need to know exactly which mower we are dealing with.
At a minimum we need to know the model on the decal on the side of the hood and even better would be the model type & serial numbers from the id tag usually under the seat on the rear fender.
Thanks for all your help i really appreciate it. okay its YTH 2348 with a briggs vtwin 23hp 445577-0755-E1 engine. I have followed the wiring diagram and the S wire goes from the key switch to the PTO switch and then to the Brake switch before returning back to the solenoid. Im getting volt to the key switch but i havent checked coming out and i havent tried bypassing the safety switches yet.
Follow this troubleshooting procedure to the letter. Let us know what you find after each step. With this info we will be better able to point you in the right direction.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks a bunch i will go through all these and try them as soon as possible. This atleast gives a better order in which to try.