You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
PLEASE HELP? Husquvarna Lemon!
#1
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
Please help my friends im working on a horrible Husquvarna riding mower for a customer its now going on 4 months working on it and i am stumped to no end. It will not crank new starter new solenoid battery good tried a different battery checked switches they seem to be working and checked key switch it works. all it will do now is rapidly click the starter will engage but nothing else and after trying several times the starter made a sizzling noise and i think this engine just toasted my starter. what else is there to do? its a briggs 445577 0755 e1.
#2
reynoldston
reynoldston
You might start by taking a amperage draw test. You have checked out the battery cables and all connections?
#3
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
there is only a little rust on the screws but all the connections are tight. i get no voltage between battery and solenoid but both wires have have continuity and arent broke and the solenoids still clicks. I checked voltage between s and b terminals on key swith and when turned to start it only reads 1.80volts. the engine isnt locked up either.
#4
reynoldston
That would be my guess as a bad wire. I have seen wires that are corroded internally. Maybe try by passing all the old wires and see what happens. You just need to be losing voltage someplace. Are there any bad safety switches. A very good place to start with any electrical problem is a wiring diagram.
reynoldston
there is only a little rust on the screws but all the connections are tight. i get no voltage between battery and solenoid but both wires have have continuity and arent broke and the solenoids still clicks. I checked voltage between s and b terminals on key swith and when turned to start it only reads 1.80volts. the engine isnt locked up either.
That would be my guess as a bad wire. I have seen wires that are corroded internally. Maybe try by passing all the old wires and see what happens. You just need to be losing voltage someplace. Are there any bad safety switches. A very good place to start with any electrical problem is a wiring diagram.
#5
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
ive have looked. maybe a new wiring harness? im really tired of this thing and no i dont blame husquvarna this thing is cursed.ill have to dig out the wires and look again.
#6
Carscw
Carscw
Check the ground going to the engine.
#7
reynoldston
I really don't what up upset you in any way. For one thing we don't know each others skills in electric wiring. As for myself I like nothing better then working with a electrical problem. I have never seen it yet where I needed to replace a wiring harness. Like I said earlier you need a wiring diagram and also a multi-volt meter. You then need to follow the diagram like a road map starting where your problem begins. Just take your time and don't jump all over the place. No one can diagnose a problem over a forum unless it a lucky guess.
I hope you the best on this and sure hope I didn't up set you in any way.
reynoldston
ive have looked. maybe a new wiring harness? im really tired of this thing and no i dont blame husquvarna this thing is cursed.ill have to dig out the wires and look again.
I really don't what up upset you in any way. For one thing we don't know each others skills in electric wiring. As for myself I like nothing better then working with a electrical problem. I have never seen it yet where I needed to replace a wiring harness. Like I said earlier you need a wiring diagram and also a multi-volt meter. You then need to follow the diagram like a road map starting where your problem begins. Just take your time and don't jump all over the place. No one can diagnose a problem over a forum unless it a lucky guess.
I hope you the best on this and sure hope I didn't up set you in any way.
#8
reynoldston
Yes a very good place to start.
reynoldston
Check the ground going to the engine.
Yes a very good place to start.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Before you start check you have the correct starter they come in clockwise & counter clockwise rotations and several different sized sprockets.
One incorrect combination will jamb when engaged and thus toast the starter.
Now for testing
Start by running a heavy jumper from the - battery terminal to the oil drain bolt.
If things start to work, clean/ replace te earth strap
Do the same with a + lead, first to the solenoid hot wire, second to the switched wire on the solenoid finally to the starter.
Same story any place when a drastic difference is noted, clean or replace the wire.
Next to the solenoid proper
remove it, clean up the base and the mounting bolts and the mounting bolt holes.
If it is OEM then it earths through the body by a mounting bolt check this by running a jumper from the battery - to the body of the solenoid.
All this checks out then run a + wire to the starter solenoid trigger terminal, verifies the solenoid
Run a wire directly from the S terminal on the switch to the trigger terminal on the solenoid, verifies the switch.
from there it is a matter of trying the jumper to both sides of the pto switch , parking brake & neutral switch.
All the start safety switches are normally open & close to complete the loop from the start switch to the solenoid trigger.
These wires are generally pink, yellow , orange or red with a tracer and may change colour at the switch plug
One incorrect combination will jamb when engaged and thus toast the starter.
Now for testing
Start by running a heavy jumper from the - battery terminal to the oil drain bolt.
If things start to work, clean/ replace te earth strap
Do the same with a + lead, first to the solenoid hot wire, second to the switched wire on the solenoid finally to the starter.
Same story any place when a drastic difference is noted, clean or replace the wire.
Next to the solenoid proper
remove it, clean up the base and the mounting bolts and the mounting bolt holes.
If it is OEM then it earths through the body by a mounting bolt check this by running a jumper from the battery - to the body of the solenoid.
All this checks out then run a + wire to the starter solenoid trigger terminal, verifies the solenoid
Run a wire directly from the S terminal on the switch to the trigger terminal on the solenoid, verifies the switch.
from there it is a matter of trying the jumper to both sides of the pto switch , parking brake & neutral switch.
All the start safety switches are normally open & close to complete the loop from the start switch to the solenoid trigger.
These wires are generally pink, yellow , orange or red with a tracer and may change colour at the switch plug
#10
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
oh no you didnt up set me i was just thinking would replaceing the wiring harness fix it because im tired of fighting these wires. sorry. ill have to try the others when i get a new starter. and id did think maybe the starter was too weak too but it was the right starter.
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
And the usual suspect for no cranking/ starting, check the valve clearances if they are too big the decompression mechanism will not work and most starter can not crank the engine over with full compression.
#12
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
okay did some testing this morning and found B terminal on key switch is getting 12v. with key off B to S gets 10.96. With key to run B to S has .20v. And with key to start B to S has 0v. i will recheck valve clearance but i have set set them once. the fuse is getting 12.5v as well. following the wire diagram the white wire on the solenoid passes through the Pto switch and brake switch before getting to the solenoid. Is the key switch working and i get no reading on the other terminal of the solenoid. Also the small terminals on the solenoid read 10.12v and i read 0v across the 2 large terminals. And i tried between starter and neut and get nothing.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
You really need a wiring diagram.
I know some people have difficulty reading wiring diagrams so I will go through things in a general way.
Power comes to the ignition switch via a fuesed wire from the hot solenoid wire to the B = battery terminal on the starting switch. ( as yours does )
Key turned to Start the switch connects the B & S ( S=start or solenoid if you like ) terminals. ( as yours seems to be doing )
From there the battery voltage goes through some of the safety switches ending up at the trigger wire on the solenoid, where it still should be 12 V ( in relation to earth ).
Starter solenoids come is a variety of types some will switch on the starter motor if they get any voltage at the trigger terminal while others will not trip unless they see more than a specific voltage at the trigger terminal . ( as your does not seem to be doing properly )
This is done to protect the starter motor from low voltage starts which will draw higher amps than the motor can handle.
There are two independent safety circuits.
One prevents the engine from cranking and the other earths out the magneto & prevents the engine from running.
Some of the switches will be in both circuits and some are connected to each other. Some work in a line A to B to C to D etc while others work independently .
If you want us to help you then please do the actual tests that we ask you to do.
I know that is a PIA as several will reply each with a different set of tests but that is because we are here and the mower is there.
Most of us have set order that we test in determined from past experiences and taylored to the equipment being tested and the tools we have at hand.
If you want my help you will need to make some jumper leads with female spade terminals at each end .
Mine are 4" 6" 1' 3' & 5' long. these are used to selectively bypass / test each safety switch &/or all of the safety switches.
So every one else who is looking at this thread can follow what is happening please reply to a specific set of tests by using the "reply with quote" button at the right side of the screen so your replies will look like this one.
That way others can analyse what is happening and chime in with useful information or ideas.
Now to start with, because Husqvarna have made over 100 different models we really need to know exactly which mower we are dealing with.
At a minimum we need to know the model on the decal on the side of the hood and even better would be the model type & serial numbers from the id tag usually under the seat on the rear fender.
B
bertsmobile1
okay did some testing this morning and found B terminal on key switch is getting 12v. with key off B to S gets 10.96. With key to run B to S has .20v. And with key to start B to S has 0v. i will recheck valve clearance but i have set set them once. the fuse is getting 12.5v as well. following the wire diagram the white wire on the solenoid passes through the Pto switch and brake switch before getting to the solenoid. Is the key switch working and i get no reading on the other terminal of the solenoid. Also the small terminals on the solenoid read 10.12v and i read 0v across the 2 large terminals. And i tried between starter and neut and get nothing.
You really need a wiring diagram.
I know some people have difficulty reading wiring diagrams so I will go through things in a general way.
Power comes to the ignition switch via a fuesed wire from the hot solenoid wire to the B = battery terminal on the starting switch. ( as yours does )
Key turned to Start the switch connects the B & S ( S=start or solenoid if you like ) terminals. ( as yours seems to be doing )
From there the battery voltage goes through some of the safety switches ending up at the trigger wire on the solenoid, where it still should be 12 V ( in relation to earth ).
Starter solenoids come is a variety of types some will switch on the starter motor if they get any voltage at the trigger terminal while others will not trip unless they see more than a specific voltage at the trigger terminal . ( as your does not seem to be doing properly )
This is done to protect the starter motor from low voltage starts which will draw higher amps than the motor can handle.
There are two independent safety circuits.
One prevents the engine from cranking and the other earths out the magneto & prevents the engine from running.
Some of the switches will be in both circuits and some are connected to each other. Some work in a line A to B to C to D etc while others work independently .
If you want us to help you then please do the actual tests that we ask you to do.
I know that is a PIA as several will reply each with a different set of tests but that is because we are here and the mower is there.
Most of us have set order that we test in determined from past experiences and taylored to the equipment being tested and the tools we have at hand.
If you want my help you will need to make some jumper leads with female spade terminals at each end .
Mine are 4" 6" 1' 3' & 5' long. these are used to selectively bypass / test each safety switch &/or all of the safety switches.
So every one else who is looking at this thread can follow what is happening please reply to a specific set of tests by using the "reply with quote" button at the right side of the screen so your replies will look like this one.
That way others can analyse what is happening and chime in with useful information or ideas.
Now to start with, because Husqvarna have made over 100 different models we really need to know exactly which mower we are dealing with.
At a minimum we need to know the model on the decal on the side of the hood and even better would be the model type & serial numbers from the id tag usually under the seat on the rear fender.
#14
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
Thanks for all your help i really appreciate it. okay its YTH 2348 with a briggs vtwin 23hp 445577-0755-E1 engine. I have followed the wiring diagram and the S wire goes from the key switch to the PTO switch and then to the Brake switch before returning back to the solenoid. Im getting volt to the key switch but i havent checked coming out and i havent tried bypassing the safety switches yet.
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
You really need a wiring diagram.
I know some people have difficulty reading wiring diagrams so I will go through things in a general way.
Power comes to the ignition switch via a fuesed wire from the hot solenoid wire to the B = battery terminal on the starting switch. ( as yours does )
Key turned to Start the switch connects the B & S ( S=start or solenoid if you like ) terminals. ( as yours seems to be doing )
From there the battery voltage goes through some of the safety switches ending up at the trigger wire on the solenoid, where it still should be 12 V ( in relation to earth ).
Starter solenoids come is a variety of types some will switch on the starter motor if they get any voltage at the trigger terminal while others will not trip unless they see more than a specific voltage at the trigger terminal . ( as your does not seem to be doing properly )
This is done to protect the starter motor from low voltage starts which will draw higher amps than the motor can handle.
There are two independent safety circuits.
One prevents the engine from cranking and the other earths out the magneto & prevents the engine from running.
Some of the switches will be in both circuits and some are connected to each other. Some work in a line A to B to C to D etc while others work independently .
If you want us to help you then please do the actual tests that we ask you to do.
I know that is a PIA as several will reply each with a different set of tests but that is because we are here and the mower is there.
Most of us have set order that we test in determined from past experiences and taylored to the equipment being tested and the tools we have at hand.
If you want my help you will need to make some jumper leads with female spade terminals at each end .
Mine are 4" 6" 1' 3' & 5' long. these are used to selectively bypass / test each safety switch &/or all of the safety switches.
So every one else who is looking at this thread can follow what is happening please reply to a specific set of tests by using the "reply with quote" button at the right side of the screen so your replies will look like this one.
That way others can analyse what is happening and chime in with useful information or ideas.
Now to start with, because Husqvarna have made over 100 different models we really need to know exactly which mower we are dealing with.
At a minimum we need to know the model on the decal on the side of the hood and even better would be the model type & serial numbers from the id tag usually under the seat on the rear fender.
Thanks for all your help i really appreciate it. okay its YTH 2348 with a briggs vtwin 23hp 445577-0755-E1 engine. I have followed the wiring diagram and the S wire goes from the key switch to the PTO switch and then to the Brake switch before returning back to the solenoid. Im getting volt to the key switch but i havent checked coming out and i havent tried bypassing the safety switches yet.
#15
B
bertsmobile1
Thank you.
If you make the jumpers, pull the plug from the back of the start switch.
Run a jumper from the battery + to the trigger terminal on the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, mower should crank.
Run a jumper from the battery + to the B terminal and another from the S terminal to the solenoid trigger wire. mower should crank when you turn the key.if the switch is good.
Run the jumper from the S terminal to the input side of the brake switch and another from the out put of the brake switch to the solenoid trigger, activate the brake & turn the key, mower should crank if brake switch is OK
This leaves the PTO switch and these can be a "lot of fun" so before I go into total confusion state, do the easy ones first and see how things go.
Note all this does is check if the individual switch are working .
One we have eliminated all of the switches then we can look at the individual wires that connect the switches together.
I try to avoid using meters because numbers tend to confuse the issue, as what is important is weather the switch actually works or not .
How many volts go in or out are lost , found or cross into another astral plane is not important , switch working / not woring is what is important.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for all your help i really appreciate it. okay its YTH 2348 with a briggs vtwin 23hp 445577-0755-E1 engine. I have followed the wiring diagram and the S wire goes from the key switch to the PTO switch and then to the Brake switch before returning back to the solenoid. Im getting volt to the key switch but i havent checked coming out and i havent tried bypassing the safety switches yet.
Thank you.
If you make the jumpers, pull the plug from the back of the start switch.
Run a jumper from the battery + to the trigger terminal on the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, mower should crank.
Run a jumper from the battery + to the B terminal and another from the S terminal to the solenoid trigger wire. mower should crank when you turn the key.if the switch is good.
Run the jumper from the S terminal to the input side of the brake switch and another from the out put of the brake switch to the solenoid trigger, activate the brake & turn the key, mower should crank if brake switch is OK
This leaves the PTO switch and these can be a "lot of fun" so before I go into total confusion state, do the easy ones first and see how things go.
Note all this does is check if the individual switch are working .
One we have eliminated all of the switches then we can look at the individual wires that connect the switches together.
I try to avoid using meters because numbers tend to confuse the issue, as what is important is weather the switch actually works or not .
How many volts go in or out are lost , found or cross into another astral plane is not important , switch working / not woring is what is important.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Follow this troubleshooting procedure to the letter. Let us know what you find after each step. With this info we will be better able to point you in the right direction.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#17
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
Thanks a bunch i will go through all these and try them as soon as possible. This atleast gives a better order in which to try.
T
ThatGuyYouKnow
Follow this troubleshooting procedure to the letter. Let us know what you find after each step. With this info we will be better able to point you in the right direction.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks a bunch i will go through all these and try them as soon as possible. This atleast gives a better order in which to try.
#18
B
bertsmobile1
As noted, two different mechanics, both know what they are doing but two different ways to diagnose the same problem.
None of the gular contributors care mch whose system you use just dso long as we know which one,.
I can follow through what Rivets is doing as I am sure he can follow how I am approaching things.
Now senior Will come in with a 3rd way to do the same thing & I am sure there could be a 4th or 5th.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks a bunch i will go through all these and try them as soon as possible. This atleast gives a better order in which to try.
As noted, two different mechanics, both know what they are doing but two different ways to diagnose the same problem.
None of the gular contributors care mch whose system you use just dso long as we know which one,.
I can follow through what Rivets is doing as I am sure he can follow how I am approaching things.
Now senior Will come in with a 3rd way to do the same thing & I am sure there could be a 4th or 5th.