P3314WSA

StarTech

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Do you have a clutch removal tool? I did this on a 46cc Homelite Pro. It was a lot of fun and leaning for me as well. Make sure you use new piston retainer rings (don't reuse old ones, hopefully part of your rebuild kit).
I do forget most here are not Pros. Yes the 530031112 tool is needed but but the OP can make an one time pin wrench to to remove it.

530031112
1627142571855.png
Now there is another version for the newer clutch style which has the pins further apart.

There is one other thing that will be present and that is the oil pump worn gear (spring). It will need removing to put on the seal.
1627143076826.png

530031166 spring tool

1627143116643.png
 
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oldlawnguy

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I do forget most here are not Pros. Yes the 530031112 tool is needed but but the OP can make an one time pin wrench to to remove it.

530031112
View attachment 57615
Now there is another version for the newer clutch style which has the pins further apart.

There is one other thing that will be present and that is the oil pump worn gear (spring). It will need removing to put on the seal.
View attachment 57616

530031166 spring tool

View attachment 57617
(y) yup I used the 530031112 clutch tool as a DIY non professional... Few pros would consider a full 2-stroke rebuild fun :cool:

If these threads can help the read-only DIY members in their repairs that's great. The knowledge provided by the pros and advanced DIYers certainly has helped me learn a thing or two.

Thanks!
 

Scrubcadet10

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It's got all new fuel lines, carb mount gaskets and new OEM (zama i think) carburetor. it sat for about 10 years and i got it running.
Do you have a clutch removal tool? I did this on a 46cc Homelite Pro. It was a lot of fun and leaning for me as well. Make sure you use new piston retainer rings (don't reuse old ones, hopefully part of your rebuild kit).

Given this is a complete teardown (nothing left to take apart :) you might as well replace the fuel lines, filter and primer bulb which is pretty cheap. I say this because on a 33cc 20 year old Homelite, I did a Walbro carb rebuild and it worked better, but was boggy when hitting throttle (kinda like it was fine then like I engaged the brake); scratched my head then I was thinking fuel lines/filter. I replace and that fixed the problem. Cross sectioned the filter and it was nasty, lines were not in good shape. Bought the line kit stuff at DadofBlueOrigin and there is all sort of kit there to buy in combos 6 ways to Sunday. I bought cylinder, piston, ring and coil at ProPartsDirect and picked them up so no sales tax or shipping. Good luck should take you about 4 hours if you do it all in one go, got to give the gasket 30 min to set before mounting cylinder under tension so you get a coffee break.

Dalom 4Pcs 6-Feet Fuel Line w 530095646 Fuel Filter Primer Bulb for 2-Stroke Poulan Weed Eater Craftman Sthil Ryobi Homelite Chainsaw String Trimmer Leaf Blower 530058709 35879158 530071835
 

Scrubcadet10

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do you know if i'll need one or two of the 530056363 Seal/bearing assy? it "looks" like two in the diagram, but only one is numbered and only 1 in the quantity. #29
1627167460969.png
 

StarTech

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Scrubcadet10

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Chainsaw is tore down, minor scuffing on the piston, but there are some pretty decent score lines on the exhaust side of the cylinder.... definitely hanging a finger nail on 'em.
Just ordered the oil pump drive spring removal tool off amazon. $10... granted it was $3 other places, but when you factor in shipping, it was the same.
 

StarTech

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Chainsaw is tore down, minor scuffing on the piston, but there are some pretty decent score lines on the exhaust side of the cylinder.... definitely hanging a finger nail on 'em.
Just ordered the oil pump drive spring removal tool off amazon. $10... granted it was $3 other places, but when you factor in shipping, it was the same.
Then you found the problem. Carbon build up can do this but most times running them too lean, too little or wrong oil, or simply straight gassed.

I always tune these to peak rpm and enrich to drop the rpms 50-100 rpms. It better to run a little rich than too lean. I seen too many over the years.

As for prices yes you are now using your head. It always been cost plus shipping for final cost here that gets items ordered. It can be a little strange when an Amazon vendor sells for less on Amazon then on their on website. I place an order for RX-1 and RX-2 diaphargm kits yesterday that were cheaper going through Amazon than going CTS website. Even the shipping were lower on Amazon. What was strange was that single kits were about the same as the two packs. Otherwords the two were less than the single kits which makes which kit half priced. (3.31 for two, or 1.655 ea). When I ordered 20 kits (actually 40) with shipping it was only 79.36 or 1.984 ea. which less than 3.31 ea before shipping at CTS website.

The same for my Xtreme PTO clutches I can go through Stens instead of Xtreme's website for better pricing overall. Plus I get a better shipping time when they have them in stock.
 

oldlawnguy

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Then you found the problem. Carbon build up can do this but most times running them too lean, too little or wrong oil, or simply straight gassed.

I always tune these to peak rpm and enrich to drop the rpms 50-100 rpms. It better to run a little rich than too lean. I seen too many over the years.

As for prices yes you are now using your head. It always been cost plus shipping for final cost here that gets items ordered. It can be a little strange when an Amazon vendor sells for less on Amazon then on their on website. I place an order for RX-1 and RX-2 diaphargm kits yesterday that were cheaper going through Amazon than going CTS website. Even the shipping were lower on Amazon. What was strange was that single kits were about the same as the two packs. Otherwords the two were less than the single kits which makes which kit half priced. (3.31 for two, or 1.655 ea). When I ordered 20 kits (actually 40) with shipping it was only 79.36 or 1.984 ea. which less than 3.31 ea before shipping at CTS website.

The same for my Xtreme PTO clutches I can go through Stens instead of Xtreme's website for better pricing overall. Plus I get a better shipping time when they have them in stock.
StarTech curious as to what's your tuning ballpark for us DIYers wrt the typical 33cc - 46cc home saws. I've been at it for a year now as a hobby; rebuilding some dead saws and through a lot of trial and error and help on this forum from the pros have pieced together (maybe incorrectly) that:

1. start Walbros at 1 1/4 for L H and Zamas at 2 for L H with T (throttle) screw all the way turned in.
2. tune L jet and back out T screw then back and forth until you have as little T screw as possible and idle around 2800 rpms and nice snappy trigger. Saw will run all day at 2800-2900 rpms with no surging or hunting.
3. tune H jet to 4-stroking and then (lean) turn in 1/4-1/2 or more turns to get to rich power side while in wood.

I have an el cheapo tach and found that around 11000-12000 rpms is around this range, but concerned about going too lean and burning out saw. Also don't want to be too rich and carbon up muffler either. Have searched and searched online and cannot find any manuals on WTO rpms. It's like to the info is behind the B&S Power Portal or something. :) Amazing what 1/8 or 1/16 or a turn will do to rpms and the patience required (while learning) to get a perfectly good saw tuned and running.

I think it would be good to have a 2-stroke carb tuning 101 for Dummies 3 step guide for DIY stiffs like myself. Maybe if I can get enough input I'll actually start a thread on 2-stroke tuning for others to find when looking for help.
 

Scrubcadet10

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Steve's small engine saloon has a good video on tuning 2 strokes... that's how i tuned this poulan when i got it running... idled great and great throttle response with very very little bog.
 
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