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Old vs new size comparision

#1

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

From left to right 2000 Yardmachines lawn tractor, 2006 John Deere X520 garden tractor, 1974 MTD 990 super garden tractor
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John Deere X520 vs MTD 990
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Vintage lawn tractor vs garden tractor
From left to right.
1978 Sears GT/11 and MTD 990.
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#2

JDgreen

JDgreen

Really interesting, wish you could figure out the weights of those machines and post that to give us an idea of how downsizing has affected weight of newer machines. The brochure for my '89 vintage Deere 318 lists the dry weight at 838 pounds, tractor only. I think you would have to buy a really big, expensive Deere these days to get to that weight figure.


#3

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

JDgreen said:
Really interesting, wish you could figure out the weights of those machines and post that to give us an idea of how downsizing has affected weight of newer machines. The brochure for my '89 vintage Deere 318 lists the dry weight at 838 pounds, tractor only. I think you would have to buy a really big, expensive Deere these days to get to that weight figure.
Click to expand...

Here's the weights of each machine. Give or take a few pounds.
The Yardmachines is about 450-500 pounds.
The little Sears GT/11 is about 600 pounds.
The John Deere is 856 pounds dry with 54'' mower.
The MTD 990 is 1015 pounds dry. I know this weight is correct because this machine has rolled over my foot before.


#4

JDgreen

JDgreen

Kingwood990 said:
Here's the weights of each machine. Give or take a few pounds.
The Yardmachines is about 450-500 pounds.
The little Sears GT/11 is about 600 pounds.
The John Deere is 856 pounds dry with 54'' mower.
The MTD 990 is 1015 pounds dry. I know this weight is correct because this machine has rolled over my foot before.
Click to expand...

Thanks...my older JD weighed within 20 pounds of yours WITHOUT the 50 inch deck installed....and the deck on mine weighed about 185 pounds, which means Deere took a lot of material out of the newer machines.


#5

M

Muhammad

These days the engineers really have to work to maximize efficiency and I think the weight is one area you see that. Some would make the point that a lighter machine is better for the lawn as it won't compact as much or tear up lawn as badly. But as soon as you go outside of mowing, the lighter weight becomes a liability.

As for rolling over your foot... OUCH! :eek:


#6

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

JDgreen said:
Thanks...my older JD weighed within 20 pounds of yours WITHOUT the 50 inch deck installed....and the deck on mine weighed about 185 pounds, which means Deere took a lot of material out of the newer machines.
Click to expand...

The deck on mine weights about 150-170 pounds. The deck is very think and all steel. The tractor has more plastic body panels than steel. Over all the machine is well built with the exception of the plastic hood. If it had steel hood I would love this tractor even more.


#7

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

Muhammad said:
These days the engineers really have to work to maximize efficiency and I think the weight is one area you see that. Some would make the point that a lighter machine is better for the lawn as it won't compact as much or tear up lawn as badly. But as soon as you go outside of mowing, the lighter weight becomes a liability.

As for rolling over your foot... OUCH! :eek:
Click to expand...

This is true.
I used to mow with a much lighter machine and would get stuck a lot. Also it would spin on wet grass and tear up the yard. Now that I have a heaver machine those problems disappeared.

Oh the orange tractor does not have any brakes. So it likes to use what is the closest which is me.:mad:
I have to get the brakes working on it someday.


#8

K

KennyV

With much lighter weight you can (and they DO) use bushings instead of wheel/axle bearings. This goes even deeper into the drive system... The transmissions can be bushed.
Engines do not have to be built to deal with constant torque loads... Steering is built much lighter. Everything goes down Cost, quality life expectancy, And you end up with a under $2000 rider or a under $3000 ZTR.

In MOST cases this will not be a problem for the average residential user. BUT when someone gets the idea that they can get one of these light weights to do even mild commercial use, or large acreage... They are only kidding themselves.
AND these are the users that give the various mower manufacturers a bad name. They are buying the wrong tool for the job they have in mind.
Manufacturers will make the lighter models 'LOOK' like the commercial lines, from a distance.
You will find the same thing in tool makers... I'm sure you have seen hammers that sell for a dollar, at a glance you will identify it's a hammer... but don't compare it to a $30 framers hammer.

The older riders were down scaled tractors... and they have lug nuts that bolt the drive wheels to hubs on the axles... the front wheels are on wheel bearings, and the steering linkage has ball joint or hymen linkage...
Used within the design limits the light weight equipment will do the job for some folks...
BUT if you want it to last the best part of your lifetime, buy an actual commercial grade machine. Then you will be 'occasionally' repairing rather than replacing... :smile:KennyV

PS.. I'm an old geezer ... I like OLD machines, have several, just because they are fun and easy to look at....


#9

JDgreen

JDgreen

Very well stated, Kenny...and you can actually WORK on the older models without needing a fancy-shmancy manual or special tools...fuel injection on a lawn tractor....inane, give me a carb any day.
Might not be as reliable but I can rebuild a carb if I have to.


#10

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

JDgreen said:
Very well stated, Kenny...and you can actually WORK on the older models without needing a fancy-shmancy manual or special tools...fuel injection on a lawn tractor....inane, give me a carb any day.
Might not be as reliable but I can rebuild a carb if I have to.
Click to expand...

This is true. I don't like working on the John Deere because it is so new.
The other stuff I have took apart and rebuilt a few times. Just for fun.


#11

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

KennyV said:
With much lighter weight you can (and they DO) use bushings instead of wheel/axle bearings. This goes even deeper into the drive system... The transmissions can be bushed.
Engines do not have to be built to deal with constant torque loads... Steering is built much lighter. Everything goes down Cost, quality life expectancy, And you end up with a under $2000 rider or a under $3000 ZTR.

In MOST cases this will not be a problem for the average residential user. BUT when someone gets the idea that they can get one of these light weights to do even mild commercial use, or large acreage... They are only kidding themselves.
AND these are the users that give the various mower manufacturers a bad name. They are buying the wrong tool for the job they have in mind.
Manufacturers will make the lighter models 'LOOK' like the commercial lines, from a distance.
You will find the same thing in tool makers... I'm sure you have seen hammers that sell for a dollar, at a glance you will identify it's a hammer... but don't compare it to a $30 framers hammer.

The older riders were down scaled tractors... and they have lug nuts that bolt the drive wheels to hubs on the axles... the front wheels are on wheel bearings, and the steering linkage has ball joint or hymen linkage...
Used within the design limits the light weight equipment will do the job for some folks...
BUT if you want it to last the best part of your lifetime, buy an actual commercial grade machine. Then you will be 'occasionally' repairing rather than replacing... :smile:KennyV

PS.. I'm an old geezer ... I like OLD machines, have several, just because they are fun and easy to look at....
Click to expand...

I started out with a worn out light weight riding mower and replaced it with a new heavier built garden tractor. The differences were like night and day. The heavier duty machine has paid for its self in productivity and lack of down time. If I knew it was going to be this good I would of bought a garden tractor years ago.

Went with a commercial grade machine because I knew it would last me a life time.
Got the old stuff to tinker with and also because they look great. And they have stories behind them.


#12

JDgreen

JDgreen

Kingwood990 said:
The deck on mine weights about 150-170 pounds. The deck is very think and all steel. The tractor has more plastic body panels than steel. Over all the machine is well built with the exception of the plastic hood. If it had steel hood I would love this tractor even more.
Click to expand...

My 318 has a plastic hood, ditto my 4210....I too would prefer steel but perhaps they use plastic because it is more effective at keeping underhood temps down and less prone to cracking from vibration?


#13

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

JDgreen said:
My 318 has a plastic hood, ditto my 4210....I too would prefer steel but perhaps they use plastic because it is more effective at keeping underhood temps down and less prone to cracking from vibration?
Click to expand...

I know the hood on the orange tractor vibrates when the machine was running. It might be because the engine was the large Briggs single.

The X520 is liquid cooled V-twin powered and runs very smooth. The hood has vents on the top and the sides. The vents on the top send air to the air cleaner on the carburetor kind of like ram-air on a Pontiac GTO. The vents on the side suck in cool air in to the radiator and also vent the hot air out of the engine bay. This set up works very well. I have never had any over heating problems during the summer.


#14

K

KennyV

Kingwood990 said:
The vents on the top send air to the air cleaner on the carburetor kind of like ram-air on a Pontiac GTO.
Click to expand...

Hey just how fast are you driving this thing??:biggrin:

Twin cylinders are 'usually' a bit smother than single, but they all sound great... :smile:KennyV


#15

Kingwood990

Kingwood990

KennyV said:
Hey just how fast are you driving this thing??:biggrin:

Twin cylinders are 'usually' a bit smother than single, but they all sound great... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...

The speed is any where from 0-7 mph.:biggrin: If you put your hand over one of the vents at WOT you can feel the the air being drawn into the engine.


#16

J

jenkinsph

Mine must be full of hot air, if it's running fast you can put your hand over the exhaust and feel it.:laughing:


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