Old Murry 14.5 Briggs.

[stihlman]

ill not start. I try bwlow to give you an isea of my steps

this is the data on it
12597 Briggs & Stratton
BS 14.5 hp
287707-0225-01

Murray
42910X92A
95334-18933



It was working great. I use it to pull a cart, no deck. I have had it about two months. I want to take care of it and the steering drove me crazy so I ordered parts to freshen it up. All parts like the axles bearings and such and it would not crank back up when I got done. I also got a key switch #92556, so I took that as an opportunity to replace it. I tested the old switch and nothing but the spring was going on it. key start and lights position had continuity, I tested the new switch and it was not a dud so I installed the new one. I tried to clean the inside of the harness plug and used a dot of die grease on each lug and plugged it in. still not a sound or whimper when turning the key.. After fixing the steering issues while the gas tank was removed and the gears removed, cleaned and greased I replaced the key switch.

Since I could not hear the solenoid click when key in start. I got the service manual on the engine and followed the solenoid test best I could. They say the part is a 3 pole #24285 but the one in my tractor has 4 poles of sorts. two on top of course. see photo D=spade terminal and on the side is a round one not mentioned in the test procedure. It has a round terminal and round connector wire that I think connects to the key ground switch by itself. I have to check that tomorrow. I still followed the instructions and the starter got a hit when i completed the circuit like in the drawing. I attached the test instructions with red is part #2

So how do I do this test with the solenoid in place? The round terminal marked in red is not accounted for in the instructions and when I did the test anyway using these instruction's and ignoring the red dot. it caused the starter to start. I remover my meter so it did not harm it.

I jumped my seat switch since no deck. The PTO switch is in place and is not depressed. The clutch switch I suspect is my problem if that will cause no power to anything. no head lights. but something happened when i completed that circuit with my meter just like the manual says. it was set for diode. The switch photo has the lug on the left edge is the one I think may be to the solenoid, all the other lugs fit in the harness plug.

Thanks if you can help me sort the solenoid test out.

 

[Rivets]

I just checked that the switch you purchased is the correct one for your unit. Don’t know how many times people just buy a switch which looks the same. The difference between a 3 pole and 4 pole solenoid is that the extra small pole is an external ground, where the 3 pole is grounded internally. When switching from 3to 4 you need to add a ground wire. Try this testing procedure and reply back. Using your results we will be able to tell tell how to proceed.

Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[stihlman]

Thank you kindly. I will do this today.

I know this now now
7.5 fuse is fine
battery is new and charged.13.0 when I checked. lives on a trickle charger.
battery ground was fixed day I bought it. bought longer cable due to terminal slant on the on battery sanded paint off base
Both switches were tested
I mentioned I had jumped the seat switch because I suspect all the safety interlocks. i mentioned that above too. This task of being clear works both ways you ned to carefully reaf what i write in order to see what I am/have done.
I have the correct parts manual and the service manual so I do not guess.

The largest question I asked, you did not mention was how to test the solenoid with the difference in the manual instructions for a 3 pole but it actually is a live (wires on each terminal) 4 pole. I will take a photo of it. i posted the manual instructions to make it easy to understand what I was saying. I also mentioned what happened when you follow the instructions' on the test to the letter, you get no reading you get an attempted start.

will post back later with your results.

 

[Rivets]

Steps 3-5 will be the tests to see if the solenoid is working properly.

 

[stihlman]

i am going now to perform those tests. here is a look at how the area we discussed looks

removed

 

[stihlman]

This is what I see.
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[stihlman]

I hooked my test light alligator clip to the battery. Touched the bottom round post with the probe on the test light and it kicked the starter. I was attempting step #3

 

[stihlman]

#4 I took my meter and clamped it to the solenoid post that does not have the positive battery wire attached then I took the negative wire and hooked it to the negative side of the battery I put meter on DC volts and went to my key switch on the lawn mower and put it in crank position and I got nothing, nothing in just on position. No reading change on meter.

I checked new switch on 3 positions when I installed it. Switch should not be problem. In fact I put old one on meter and it tested good as well. I swapped it back no change.

Power to starter has been verified when it turned when I was touching lower solenoid post on the bottom.

 

[stihlman]

That should complete the test instructions

 

[Rivets]

Are you saying you have 12VDC on both small terminals of the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position?