Old B&S engine model

[bertsmobile1]

Rebuild kits are available for that carb so it should not be a problem.
Bac in 64 the wholesale mark up on the engine would have been between 50% to 100% so Briggs could afford to build them well.
Thus you have one of the best carbs Briggs ever fitted.
You seem to know your way round B & S stuff but jus in case you don't or for the benefit of other who might seek out this thread, REMOVE THE MAIN JET AND THE VENTURI TUBE FROM THE BOWL BEFORE REMOVING THE BOWL.
You can get away with not doing it on the large Flow-Jet but not the small one

 

[bertsmobile1]

Here is the catch Both the 82902 and the 61102 are blower housing originally off of vertical engines not your horizontal engine.

Most likely done to get a recoil starter on an engine that only had a pulley & loose rope ,
Did your relative buy the engine new ?
If so see if they can remember when it was bought as it could very well be older than you think.
Flow jets were use on the letter series engines as well as the new numbering system.
No idea when the new system came in but sure some of the US trade posters will know or have access to that information.

 

[GPB]

Thanks everyone, I will get to cleaning up and inspecting this carb. We'll see how she looks. Thanks for reminding me bertsmobile 1 about the venturi tube, I almost forgot on the last one I did almost 15 years ago, but just caught it before I pulled anything apart.

My uncle got it from his uncle, which he used on a truck farm in the mid 50s, so your question is on point about the date being earlier. Nobody remembers or knows the dates of when it came from, but I feel lucky to have it and we will figure it out.

 

[Rivets]

Briggs carb overhaul kit for that carb is part #291691. Be VERY, VERY, VERY CAREFUL when you try to remove the main nozzle. It is probably frozen in and going to take a lot of soaking by the way that carb looks. It is made of brass and you can strip the slot very easy. If you do that I’ll post a trick that has worked about 25% of the time if you really want to try to save the carb. This manual might help you. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00/view

 

[GPB]

Thanks Rivets, I will go slow with it and appreciate hearing about the trick. I was actually just reading that very manual you posted! Getting closer every minute.

 

[StarTech]

Side note on the nozzle removal but you might already know this. It takes a straight sided hollow ground flat tip to get best drive without slipage. It makes the most contact with the slot. I have several 1/4 hex drive bits that I ground off the hexes just enough to get pass the threading to remove these nozzles on other carbs.

 

[ILENGINE]

Most likely done to get a recoil starter on an engine that only had a pulley & loose rope ,
Did your relative buy the engine new ?
If so see if they can remember when it was bought as it could very well be older than you think.
Flow jets were use on the letter series engines as well as the new numbering system.
No idea when the new system came in but sure some of the US trade posters will know or have access to that information.

It was common in my area for people to break the rope in their horizontal shaft tiller engine, and would go grab the entire blower housing off of the junk push mower sitting out in the weeds.

 

[Rivets]

The trick I use when you strip the nozzle engine is using a Torx bit. I soak the nozzle area with a good penetrating lube, PB Blaster, Yield, Kano, for a day or two. I have a #20, I think, Toro bit driver which I drive into the ruined nozzle and turn it out. This is one time where patience overcomes brute force.

 

[StarTech]

Good idea as regular screw extractors tend to swell the brass and plastic outwards as you try to extract a screw as they cam in. Plus the shocking of the threaded nozzle also helps. I use the shocking method a lot on cross point screws. I wish others would as I see many stripped out ones.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

The trick I use when you strip the nozzle engine is using a Torx bit. I soak the nozzle area with a good penetrating lube, PB Blaster, Yield, Kano, for a day or two. I have a #20, I think, Toro bit driver which I drive into the ruined nozzle and turn it out. This is one time where patience overcomes brute force.

I like your method. I have a set of long shank hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers. I like to soak carbs with seafoam deep creep for a couple days then heat it up with a propane torch. Haven't had one i couldn't get out.