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I have a little 1964 flathead B&S engine from a relative and working to source parts. Can't find much out there about parts, so if I can't rebuild the carb I wonder if anyone knows of a way to retrofit a newer type to it. Everything else is in perfect shape, strong compression and strong spark.
Model is 82902 Type 0180 01 Code 6411192

https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/82900-ms4889-0188.pdf

carburetor assembly 298567

Your model number is incorrect, the 9 may be a 3.

Model number is correct, diagram and gasket part number is 270253 and as you said no longer available. You can substitute Raisman #8031101 or Universal #530014. Both can be ordered through Jacks Small Engines if not available in your area.

dougand3 said:

https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/82900-ms4889-0188.pdf

carburetor assembly 298567

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I double checked the numbers and they are correct with what is stamped on the flywheel cover. Odd thing is that parts diagram shows it having a tank mounted carb, where the carb on this unit is a flowjet?? Maybe someone found the flywheel from one engine and it just happened to fit the other?? This could get fun.

Funny Rivets the Briggs 270253 is still available through two of my distributors. A&I and Power Distributors. Actually if I needed one it would cost me as little as $1.92 plus SHC. Suggested Retail is $2.95. So any Briggs dealer should be able to get it if you want OEM.

GPB said:

I double checked the numbers and they are correct with what is stamped on the flywheel cover. Odd thing is that parts diagram shows it having a tank mounted carb, where the carb on this unit is a flowjet?? Maybe someone found the flywheel from one engine and it just happened to fit the other?? This could get fun.

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Can you post a pic of the engine? Might solve the mystery of what you have.

The problem with having the number stamped into the blower housing on blower housing that are all interchangable is people do that rather than buying a new one .

Well I remembered on the drive home that my uncle included a bucket of extra parts and there was indeed another flywheel cover in there model 61102. Turns out its about the same issue, with the diagram showing a tank mounted carb. Here is what the carb on the engine looks like. Might have to walk the streets like a filthy beggar with carb in hand to try and find one, hugh? I'm sure someone out there knows it by sight.

Here is the catch Both the 82902 and the 61102 are blower housing originally off of vertical engines not your horizontal engine.

Rebuild kits are available for that carb so it should not be a problem.
Bac in 64 the wholesale mark up on the engine would have been between 50% to 100% so Briggs could afford to build them well.
Thus you have one of the best carbs Briggs ever fitted.
You seem to know your way round B & S stuff but jus in case you don't or for the benefit of other who might seek out this thread, REMOVE THE MAIN JET AND THE VENTURI TUBE FROM THE BOWL BEFORE REMOVING THE BOWL.
You can get away with not doing it on the large Flow-Jet but not the small one

ILENGINE said:

Here is the catch Both the 82902 and the 61102 are blower housing originally off of vertical engines not your horizontal engine.

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Most likely done to get a recoil starter on an engine that only had a pulley & loose rope ,
Did your relative buy the engine new ?
If so see if they can remember when it was bought as it could very well be older than you think.
Flow jets were use on the letter series engines as well as the new numbering system.
No idea when the new system came in but sure some of the US trade posters will know or have access to that information.

Thanks everyone, I will get to cleaning up and inspecting this carb. We'll see how she looks. Thanks for reminding me bertsmobile 1 about the venturi tube, I almost forgot on the last one I did almost 15 years ago, but just caught it before I pulled anything apart.

My uncle got it from his uncle, which he used on a truck farm in the mid 50s, so your question is on point about the date being earlier. Nobody remembers or knows the dates of when it came from, but I feel lucky to have it and we will figure it out.

Briggs carb overhaul kit for that carb is part #291691. Be VERY, VERY, VERY CAREFUL when you try to remove the main nozzle. It is probably frozen in and going to take a lot of soaking by the way that carb looks. It is made of brass and you can strip the slot very easy. If you do that I’ll post a trick that has worked about 25% of the time if you really want to try to save the carb. This manual might help you. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00/view

Thanks Rivets, I will go slow with it and appreciate hearing about the trick. I was actually just reading that very manual you posted! Getting closer every minute.

Side note on the nozzle removal but you might already know this. It takes a straight sided hollow ground flat tip to get best drive without slipage. It makes the most contact with the slot. I have several 1/4 hex drive bits that I ground off the hexes just enough to get pass the threading to remove these nozzles on other carbs.

bertsmobile1 said:

Most likely done to get a recoil starter on an engine that only had a pulley & loose rope ,
Did your relative buy the engine new ?
If so see if they can remember when it was bought as it could very well be older than you think.
Flow jets were use on the letter series engines as well as the new numbering system.
No idea when the new system came in but sure some of the US trade posters will know or have access to that information.

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It was common in my area for people to break the rope in their horizontal shaft tiller engine, and would go grab the entire blower housing off of the junk push mower sitting out in the weeds.

The trick I use when you strip the nozzle engine is using a Torx bit. I soak the nozzle area with a good penetrating lube, PB Blaster, Yield, Kano, for a day or two. I have a #20, I think, Toro bit driver which I drive into the ruined nozzle and turn it out. This is one time where patience overcomes brute force.

Good idea as regular screw extractors tend to swell the brass and plastic outwards as you try to extract a screw as they cam in. Plus the shocking of the threaded nozzle also helps. I use the shocking method a lot on cross point screws. I wish others would as I see many stripped out ones.

Rivets said:

The trick I use when you strip the nozzle engine is using a Torx bit. I soak the nozzle area with a good penetrating lube, PB Blaster, Yield, Kano, for a day or two. I have a #20, I think, Toro bit driver which I drive into the ruined nozzle and turn it out. This is one time where patience overcomes brute force.

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I like your method. I have a set of long shank hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers. I like to soak carbs with seafoam deep creep for a couple days then heat it up with a propane torch. Haven't had one i couldn't get out.

Glad to hear you’ve got it running. Most people don’t take the time to let us know if the problem was resolved or not, which we appreciate.

GPB said:

I double checked the numbers and they are correct with what is stamped on the flywheel cover. Odd thing is that parts diagram shows it having a tank mounted carb, where the carb on this unit is a flowjet?? Maybe someone found the flywheel from one engine and it just happened to fit the other?? This could get fun.

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For what it's worth - I have model# 82902, 0247, which does have the carb w twin stacks in the gas tank. 1964 vintage I believe. - callhow

Very common to find a blower housing on the wrong engine.
You have to be a little caeful when using them on engines of unknown source.

ILENGINE said:

Here is the catch Both the 82902 and the 61102 are blower housing originally off of vertical engines not your horizontal engine.

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61102 would be a horizontal engine

Captn Cliffy said:

61102 would be a horizontal engine

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Must of had something on my mind when I typed that. Odd/even number thing on my mind.