Oily Spark Plug

Richie F

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With the piston out, ball hone.
When ball honing keep the cylinder wet with mineral spirits.
When done wash the cylinder with warm soapy water and rinse then dry.
Then with clean paper towels use automatic trans oil to wipe the cylinder down.
You will see a black film when doing this. That is the residue from the ball hone and cylinder wall.
Good luck.
 

Shorter Grass

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With the piston out, ball hone.
When ball honing keep the cylinder wet with mineral spirits.
When done wash the cylinder with warm soapy water and rinse then dry.
Then with clean paper towels use automatic trans oil to wipe the cylinder down.
You will see a black film when doing this. That is the residue from the ball hone and cylinder wall.
Good luck.


Would this home still be ok as this was the one I had ordered before I saw your message.
 

bertsmobile1

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Not in the hands of an ameteur .
You have to shove it in and pull it out very quickly without allowing it to go too far in or too far out .
Getting a good hatch without taking too much material off requires quite a bit experience.
Bad enough with iron bores but a disaster with aluminium bores
 

Richie F

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Shorter Grass

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Not in the hands of an ameteur .
You have to shove it in and pull it out very quickly without allowing it to go too far in or too far out .
Getting a good hatch without taking too much material off requires quite a bit experience.
Bad enough with iron bores but a disaster with aluminium bores

If i pull it through once at a steady speed, start to finish in about 10 seconds?
 

Born2Mow

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Would a spray of WD40 help?

WD-40 is not really a lubricant. And it's not clear to me it would help at all. Really, what you want is a liquid that helps remove the grinding/honing media from the cylinder. "Lubrication" of the honing operation is really secondary.

For that reason, I hone in a utility sink that is filled with enough hot, soapy water to cover half the cylinder. Obviously, safety requires a cordless drill motor, but the variable speed comes in handy. IMHO, a true detergent is the only thing that will remove the honing media, some of which is microscopic. At one time I worked in a shop where finished cylinders were even run through a dish washer. Once you understand that the media of the honing stones is harder than diamond and continues to cut metal if left behind, then getting rid of the media left by the honing process becomes the primary key to long engine life.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Shorter Grass

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WD-40 is not really a lubricant. And it's not clear to me it would help at all. Really, what you want is a liquid that helps remove the grinding/honing media from the cylinder. "Lubrication" of the honing operation is really secondary.

For that reason, I hone in a utility sink that is filled with enough hot, soapy water to cover half the cylinder. Obviously, safety requires a cordless drill motor, but the variable speed comes in handy. IMHO, a true detergent is the only thing that will remove the honing media, some of which is microscopic. At one time I worked in a shop where finished cylinders were even run through a dish washer. Once you understand that the media of the honing stones is harder than diamond and continues to cut metal if left behind, then getting rid of the media left by the honing process becomes the primary key to long engine life.

Just my 2 cents.

Thank you and it is probably what I will do also
 

Born2Mow

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It occurred to me that you could find a soup can (or other steel can) about the size of your cylinder and use that to practice your honing technique. You'll want to end up with hone marks between 30 and 45° off the head gasket surface. As was said, it's really very easy... once you've done it 20 times !!

:sneaky:
 
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