Oil Soaked Plugs

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I think you will be ok. try to get the crosshatch lines at 45 degrees to one another. You do so by controlling the speed. The stones should go about 1/3 past the end of the cylinder on both sides. Maybe 3 or 4 passes, then check it. If that looks even, stop.
Thanks!
 

Rivets

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Don’t get too aggressive with that hone and make sure you use plenty and a very light lubricant. Maximum of 30 seconds, then wipe clean and recheck all 6 measurements. If you don’t think you have a good crosshatch, repeat. When you get what you want, make sure you wash the block at least twice, then wipe the entire block with Kleenex, which should look as white as new when finished. Any coloration wash again, you don’t want any residue felt in the block. Any grit or dirt can easily ruin all your work. If you didn’t clean it properly last time the residue may have resulted in ruining the rings and causing your problem to reoccur. Also, I’m assuming that the block is bare, no valves, coil, or anything attached.
 

sgkent

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keep in mind that as you remove metal you widen the bore. Check the ring gap when done to be sure you didn't widen it too much. I used to bore automotive engine blocks for a living, and 5 or 6 seconds isn't a problem. Doing 1 or 2 minutes will widen the bore way too much. All you need it is to break the glaze and replace it with a cross hatch. Also when you break the engine in, don't just run it a half hour at full load when you first run it. Let it idle 5 or 10 minutes then change the oil. One other thing crossed my mind. Be sure the drain holes in the valve area are open and not plugged with pieces of RTV or something.
 
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This is all great information. Thanks for taking the time to give details. I'm learning a lot with this project, some the hard way, but.... Thanks so much. Will post when complete.
 

Craftsman Garage

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the new Kohler aren't like the old shaking ones, one life lesson: NEVER BUY A KOHLER COURAGE ON ANYTHING, but the command is a much better engine, courage engines make an unending knocking sound and have lots of problems to be addressed ;)
 

Rivets

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Cast iron sleeves used on Kohler engines are not as hard as automotive blocks. That’s why I say “Don’t get aggressive “ when attempting to hone. I also forgot to mention that as soon as you get done washing the block for the &#2:9? time, spray the cylinder walls with a light lube (WD-40, power lube, etc) to prevent rust forming. This can start in as little as 10 minutes.
 

Rivets

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This is nothing new with the Courage engines, been going on for many years. There’s even a service bulletin on this. All the techs on this site know that when they hear the knocking on a Courage engine, the first thing they do is pull the shroud and tighten the crankcase cover bolts.
 

Craftsman Garage

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This is nothing new with the Courage engines, been going on for many years. There’s even a service bulletin on this. All the techs on this site know that when they hear the knocking on a Courage engine, the first thing they do is pull the shroud and tighten the crankcase cover bolts.
amen to that ;)
 

bertsmobile1

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I doubt there will be many more.
It only happened to a few engines & most were unafected which suggest 1 mould on a casting machine was a little crook .
Kohler identified the problem and corrected it
The counterbalance was another problem that took a while to sort out as well .
The original Kohler krack only happened to a small number of the total production run of these engines.
I have a lot of them in my service run as Husqvarna dumped the potential suspect mowers down here at a discount.
So there is a disproportionately high number of the suspect engines down here .
I have welded 3 of them early on , but have not had any problem with the remaining 30 odd engines.
The bolts were removed once I knew about the problem & refitted with a drop of blue loctite , problem solved
I check them but not one has moved in the past 6 years .
 
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