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Oil filter question please help!

#1

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?55A463BF-DB0B-4E66-A52A-F8C25F3EFBB6.jpeg
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!


#2

M

MParr

It depends on how much clearance you have. The 52 050 02-S will fit, if you have enough clearance. Some mowers use the shorter version, when there isn’t enough clearance.


#3

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

MParr said:
It depends on how much clearance you have. The 52 050 02-S will fit, if you have enough clearance. Some mowers use the shorter version, when there isn’t enough clearance.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I think the clearance is there. I’ll measure it in the morning.
Thanks again.


#4

M

MParr

If the 52 050 02-S fits, save yourself some money and go to Walmart for your next oil filter. The Super Tech MP3614 is the same filter in a different paint color. The FRAM TG3614 and STP S3614 are also interchangeable.


#5

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

MParr said:
If the 52 050 02-S fits, save yourself some money and go to Walmart for your next oil filter. The Super Tech MP3614 is the same filter in a different paint color. The FRAM TG3614 and STP S3614 are also interchangeable.
Click to expand...
Cool! My wife’s car takes Fram 3614. I use the XG3614 on it with full synthetic oil.
Thanks again
EDIT: I have 2 of the XG3614 here. Will it hurt to use one of those other than overkill?


#6

M

MParr

Delete


#7

M

MParr

Douglasdzaster said:
Cool! My wife’s car takes Fram 3614. I use the XG3614 on it with full synthetic oil.
Thanks again
EDIT: I have 2 of the XG3614 here. Will it hurt to use one of those other than overkill?
Click to expand...
No it won’t hurt as long as you have clearance. Personally, I like the Champ Labs made filters. Champ Labs makes the Kohler oil filters. Champ Labs makes the Super Tech MP3614 and STP S3614 oil filters. First Brands now owns Champ Labs and FRAM. So, you are good using FRAM oil filters as long as you don’t buy the Extra Guard (Orange Can). The FRAM Orange Cans are junk.


#8

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

MParr said:
No it won’t hurt as long as you have clearance. Personally, I like the Champ Labs made filters. Champ Labs makes the Kohler oil filters. Champ Labs makes the Super Tech MP3614 and STP S3614 oil filters. First Brands now owns Champ Labs and FRAM. So, you are good using FRAM oil filters as long as you don’t buy the Extra Guard (Orange Can). The FRAM Orange Cans are junk.
Click to expand...
I’m headed to Walmart for some other things this afternoon. I’ll check there Super Tech stock. I’m kinda in the boondocks when it comes to finding certain parts. 5w30 synthetic for my wife’s car for instance. I can order it $15 cheaper than the two places in the county that have it.
Whats your opinion of Super Tech synthetic for a more?


#9

M

MParr

Douglasdzaster said:
I’m headed to Walmart for some other things this afternoon. I’ll check there Super Tech stock. I’m kinda in the boondocks when it comes to finding certain parts. 5w30 synthetic for my wife’s car for instance. I can order it $15 cheaper than the two places in the county that have it.
Whats your opinion of Super Tech synthetic for a more?
Click to expand...
Use what you like. I don’t personally use a full synthetic oil in my mower. I use conventional 15W40 diesel oil.


#10

S

slomo

My walymart doesn't have supertech oil filters anymore. They have the oil which I use. SG rated SAE30W with tons of zinc and some other magic sprinkles.


#11

S

slomo

When you guys say "full synthetic oil", you know unless you are buying Redline for example, you are not getting real synthetic oil, in the USA anyway?

Wonder why Mobile One "full synthetic" is so cheap? Darn near the price of raw petroleum oil.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

Because their is no legal definition of synthetic
So any oil that is broken down into parts then reassembled can be called synthetic.


#13

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

Well bust my bubble!
Ive been using (mostly Castrol full synthetic) for years in everything I own. Never had a problem with anything unless I got some bad fuel. My last truck had 286k on it and was still running strong the day I traded a year ago.
Ive always been a stickler for keeping the oil and filter changed in everything though. Has it been my regular maintenance? Now I’m wondering if I could’ve saved a lot of money. I never believed in waiting 10k miles I don’t care what the container said. 5k at the most.
Ive also been told once you run synthetic you shouldn’t go back to conventional. I even use what’s called a synthetic blend 2 stroke marine oil to mix the fuel for my old outboard. 😂
Now I have smoked a chainsaw I used synthetic in but I was using a small saw for big jobs. When it quit I set it on the ground and grabbed only the pull rope and the saw didn’t budge when I lifted up on it. Toast.
Thanks for all the replies I appreciate everything I have learned from y’all.
Oh I ended up picking up a STP filter for the lawn tractor. Thanks again. Awesome forum!


#14

B

bertsmobile1

my current van has 1,682,000 km on it and has seen nothing but whatever 20w50 I can buy in a 44 gallon drum .
True synthetic oil is made from gas then the molecules are broken up and reassmbled to make a liquid which is very expensive
Traditional oils are distilled & filtered off the crude oil as a liquid .
Semi synthetics are made by breaking down traditional oils into all of the component parts then reassembling it using only the bits you need.
This is standard proceedure for thousands of items that need to be exactly the same day in & day out like sugar, bread makers flour, carbon black .

and why people call traditional oil dino oil I have no idea as it is the remains of vegetable matter not dinosaurs and most of it predates dinosaurs .


#15

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Dino gas.jpg


#16

M

MParr

bertsmobile1 said:
my current van has 1,682,000 km on it and has seen nothing but whatever 20w50 I can buy in a 44 gallon drum .
True synthetic oil is made from gas then the molecules are broken up and reassmbled to make a liquid which is very expensive
Traditional oils are distilled & filtered off the crude oil as a liquid .
Semi synthetics are made by breaking down traditional oils into all of the component parts then reassembling it using only the bits you need.
This is standard proceedure for thousands of items that need to be exactly the same day in & day out like sugar, bread makers flour, carbon black .

and why people call traditional oil dino oil I have no idea as it is the remains of vegetable matter not dinosaurs and most of it predates dinosaurs
Click to expand...
Today, most conventional oils are blends. This is done to meet current requirements for fuel economy and engine manufacturers.


#17

M

MParr

There is really no advantage of using a higher priced synthetic oil in a small engine. A conventional oil is totally fine as long as it meets the engine manufacturers requirements. Oil changes in mowers are usually done yearly or every 100 hours, whichever comes first. At 100 hours, most oils are pretty clean.
What is very important is to keep the incoming air clean. Service those air cleaners as required by the engine manufacturers.


#18

B

bertsmobile1

MParr said:
Today, most conventional oils are blends. This is done to meet current requirements for fuel economy and engine manufacturers.
Click to expand...
Yes they are blends
And most lubricating oils are made from Australian crude because it makes good oil, lousy petrol or diesel but good heavy lubricants .
But there is a big difference between blending & reassembling


#19

S

STEVES

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
Do your google research, Wix oil filters are extremely effective filters, Frams, Stp etc... not! Check a few sites that have tested most filters. You could be surprised! OE filters also top pick, usually.


#20

D

Dwayne Oxford

Do yourself a favor. Do some oil filter research, avoid Fram. Call auto parts and get a cross reference. I use Wix. WM synthetic is fine, used it for years, use Rural King now. It's all spec'd same. Sent samples for analysis to be sure. ANY synthetic is better than non.


#21

D

Dwayne Oxford

STEVES said:
Do your google research, Wix oil filters are extremely effective filters, Frams, Stp etc... not! Check a few sites that have tested most filters. You could be surprised! OE filters also top pick, usually.
Click to expand...
AMEN!! Prob why Kohler uses them.


#22

M

moparjoe

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
Go to NAPA and buy the same oil filter that it has now. NAPA has them so stop being picky. There, problem solved.


#23

M

moparjoe

Fram
MParr said:
No it won’t hurt as long as you have clearance. Personally, I like the Champ Labs made filters. Champ Labs makes the Kohler oil filters. Champ Labs makes the Super Tech MP3614 and STP S3614 oil filters. First Brands now owns Champ Labs and FRAM. So, you are good using FRAM oil filters as long as you don’t buy the Extra Guard (Orange Can). The FRAM Orange Cans are junk.
Click to expand...
FRAM filters are nothing but a painted piece of junk. I have had trouble with the internal oil seal coming out.


#24

H

Honest Abe

here's a Cross reference chart, with a few :unsure: other choices . . . . .

Oil filter cross reference

312 replacement oil filters for KOHLER 52 050 02. See cross reference chart for KOHLER 52 050 02 and more than 200.000 other oil filters.
www.oilfilter-crossreference.com

Oh ya, I'd rarely ever use a proprietary part when an equally good generic part can be had for 75% less

but, that's just me . . . . .


#25

I

Imajkrsl

Kohler 7000 series, try this one on Amazon

Kohler 12 050 01-s1 Oil Filter​



#26

U

upnorthwi

MParr said:
If the 52 050 02-S fits, save yourself some money and go to Walmart for your next oil filter. The Super Tech MP3614 is the same filter in a different paint color. The FRAM TG3614 and STP S3614 are also interchangeable.
Click to expand...
Is there a cross reference chart?


#27

D

Dwayne Oxford

moparjoe said:
Go to NAPA and buy the same oil filter that it has now. NAPA has them so stop being picky. There, problem solved.
Click to expand...
NAPA filters are WIX, just one number added or left off.


#28

P

perzaklie

MParr said:
Use what you like. I don’t personally use a full synthetic oil in my mower. I use conventional 15W40 diesel oil.
Click to expand...
Agree. Additionally, I use only Wix filters on every piece of machinery I own.


#29

P

perzaklie

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
The brand of filter you use is your choice, of course. FYI, I use only Wix filters on every piece of machinery I have on the farm and have for years.


#30

P

perzaklie

slomo said:
My walymart doesn't have supertech oil filters anymore. They have the oil which I use. SG rated SAE30W with tons of zinc and some other magic sprinkles.
Click to expand...
That is probably the most overlooked maintenance item on any air cooled engine. I clean mine a couple times each season. If it can't cool, it's going to self-destruct.


#31

P

perzaklie

perzaklie said:
Agree. Additionally, I use only Wix filters on every piece of machinery I own.
Click to expand...
Rotella T 10W-40


#32

S

smallenginerepairs

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
iI replaced the small kholer oil filters with a Fram filter. They are half the price of a Kholer filter and they are a twice the length and have more filtering capacity. If you have the room for a filter twice the length of the Kholer filter, use a Fram filter. I've been using Fram filters on all my equipment and all the mowers i work on.


#33

B

Brucewayne

MParr said:
It depends on how much clearance you have. The 52 050 02-S will fit, if you have enough clearance. Some mowers use the shorter version, when there isn’t enough clearance.
Click to expand...
I do not know anything about it.
Kohler Oil Filter 12 050 01 - Amazon Official Site
1685190498323.png
Amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com › patio-garden

1685190498352.png





1685190498411.png



Compare Prices on Kohler oil filter 12 050 01 in Patio & Garden.


#34

H

Honest Abe

upnorthwi said:
Is there a cross reference chart?
Click to expand...
duhhhh, look up 2 posts from your original post. . . . .


#35

grumpyunk

grumpyunk

As far as I know, all 'OEM' branded oil filter(and air filters) are made by independent firms. Just as their engines for the most part are not made 'in-house', the same holds true for the filters.
On the retail shelves, the OEM are priced as if they were the best product on the market. In most cases they are not, but are good for profits.
I would go with a brand name that crosses to the filter I am replacing. Just about all of them will be as good or better than those sold by the OEM. And likely will be priced at about half the OEM, or less.
In short buy a brand you have confidence in, and don't pay too much for the filter. If you compare hours of use to miles on a car/truck, 100 hours @60mph would be about a 6,000 mile interval. Not unreasonable given these engine get started and ran for long enough to get the oil good and hot. Most vehicles are subject to short trips where the oil barely gets warm, leading to contamination of the oil with blowby gases, water vapor, etc. A small engine gets a lot less of that short trip buildup, so should handle that intverval without problem.
tom


#36

V

VTevaD

You're overthinking this. Clean oil of proper weight, new whatever filter and make sure your air filter is clean. More important, don't push it too hard and overheat it when grass is wet or thick. A hand held infrared thermometer gun from Harbor Freight works great for monitoring the temp. Take breaks, let it cool in the shade for few and do a little weed whacking or have a beer.


#37

reynoldston

reynoldston

What is the problem with the Wix 51056 filter? Been using them for years without any problems.


#38

H

Honest Abe

VTevaD said:
You're overthinking this. Clean oil of proper weight, new whatever filter and make sure your air filter is clean. More important, don't push it too hard and overheat it when grass is wet or thick. A hand held infrared thermometer gun from Harbor Freight works great for monitoring the temp. Take breaks, let it cool in the shade for few and do a little weed whacking or have a beer.
Click to expand...
If the engine is clean, i.e. air filter clean and no debris clogging around the engine cooling fins (or under the shroud) it should be able to run all day long.....


#39

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

Honest Abe said:
Oh ya, I'd rarely ever use a proprietary part when an equally good generic part can be had for 75% less

but, that's just me . . . . .
Click to expand...
Not just you, obviously, as Amazon/Ebay/Wally seem quite successful selling generics.

Howsomever, here's another side of the coin: "compatible doesn't mean comparable." On these oil filter issues for example, generics might make sense operating a fleet with scheduled maintenance and scheduled replacements. My one and only 2016 CC/Kohler ZRT, however, that I hope to run 20 years? Hell, I'll pop for the $12 Wix over the $7 STP. As YouTube shows these filters are not all the same under the paint. I've blown $5 on a lot less critical stuff.


#40

H

Honest Abe

tgzzzz said:
Not just you, obviously, as Amazon/Ebay/Wally seem quite successful selling generics.

Howsomever, here's another side of the coin: "compatible doesn't mean comparable." On these oil filter issues for example, generics might make sense operating a fleet with scheduled maintenance and scheduled replacements. My one and only 2016 CC/Kohler ZRT, however, that I hope to run 20 years? Hell, I'll pop for the $12 Wix over the $7 STP. As YouTube shows these filters are not all the same under the paint. I've blown $5 on a lot less critical stuff.
Click to expand...
Here's an interesting oil change style of an older gentleman I knew years ago. He had a 1960 Pontiac, with at that time about 200k miles on it. All he ever did was change the filter ever 2k miles and add a quart of oil. He never did a full oil change, and ran that car into the ground with over 300k miles . . . . .


#41

homer888

homer888

Best filter is Wix.I use Valvoline semi-syntheris in my toro(24 years old)


#42

M

MParr

Dwayne Oxford said:
AMEN!! Prob why Kohler uses them.
Click to expand...
Kohler oil filters are currently made by Champion Labs. Champion Labs makes Walmart Super Tech, STP S line.


#43

K

kjonxx

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
same as briggs long or short its 3/4 Thread


#44

M

MParr

perzaklie said:
Agree. Additionally, I use only Wix filters on every piece of machinery I own.
Click to expand...
There’s nothing really wrong with WIX or NAPA Gold oil filters. However, WIX and Purolator are now owned by Mann+Hummel. Some of the old WIX/NAPA filters are being replaced by Purolators with a different paint scheme. Purolators have had problems over the last few years. I’m not a fan of Purolator or FRAM Orange Can.


#45

T

tombukt2

Yes if it fits it works No need to go scientific on oil filters everybody's done that for you since the '60s so what's your left with is generally just fine for everyday use change accordingly I look at my oil sticks often just to see and smell what I have going on and change accordingly not according to a list.


#46

M

MParr

tomw0 said:
As far as I know, all 'OEM' branded oil filter(and air filters) are made by independent firms. Just as their engines for the most part are not made 'in-house', the same holds true for the filters.
On the retail shelves, the OEM are priced as if they were the best product on the market. In most cases they are not, but are good for profits.
I would go with a brand name that crosses to the filter I am replacing. Just about all of them will be as good or better than those sold by the OEM. And likely will be priced at about half the OEM, or less.
In short buy a brand you have confidence in, and don't pay too much for the filter. If you compare hours of use to miles on a car/truck, 100 hours @60mph would be about a 6,000 mile interval. Not unreasonable given these engine get started and ran for long enough to get the oil good and hot. Most vehicles are subject to short trips where the oil barely gets warm, leading to contamination of the oil with blowby gases, water vapor, etc. A small engine gets a lot less of that short trip buildup, so should handle that intverval without problem.
tom
Click to expand...
Correct!
Kohler oil filters are currently made under contract with Champion Labs.
Before Champion Labs got the contract, FRAM was making them.
Who knows who will get the next contract?


#47

M

MParr

Watch this video and you will see what I’m talking about.


#48

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

MParr said:
Correct!
Kohler oil filters are currently made under contract with Champion Labs.
Before Champion Labs got the contract, FRAM was making them.
Who knows who will get the next contract?
Click to expand...
Who knows indeed? I'm sold on compatible isn't comparable.


#49

J

jedigene1

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
The

KOHLER 12 050 01S on Amazon.​



#50

B

bertsmobile1

Well that was a total waste of 11 minutes of my remaining time on the planet
The monkey with the tools has almost no understanding and even his superficial "reveal" was done wrong as the filer material inside the end caps is still available to the oil so even his very rudemental calculation of the surface areas was wrong
The thickness of the container is meaningless as a oil filter is neither stressed not highly pressurised and of course his measurements included the paint.
So the only teak take away is 2 of the 3 filters were made on the same machine using the same shape components.
What is important is the function of the anti drain back valve & the pressure release valve neither of which was tested.


#51

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

🍿🍿🍿🍿🍿


#52

B

bertsmobile1

I find it staggering that the less people understand about any item the more robustly they argue over them
It is a just a frigging oil filter
It has one job, to remove crud from the oil without restricting the flow too much and bypass when it is restricted
As most mower oil pumps are at the bottom of the engine and gravity fed, they do not need to have anti flow back valves
Now if shaved monkey had done a hot & wet strength test on the filter media , or even a simple flow test then it might have had some saving grace
But no 100% trash, convincing retheric perhaps but totally useless .
And as for the use of the microscope at that magnification he way as well put a magnifier in front of his one eyed trouser snake.

Like an athlete is is all about performance none of which Mr Shaved Monkey tested yet the addle minded incapable of thinking for themselves seem to consider of use .

And when it is all said & done the oil filter on a mower is in most cases superflious
Most will run quite fine with nothing more than splash and oil the consistancy of treacle as any mower tech who has actually pulled an engine apart will attest to.

The filter that is important is the air filter but no one seems to care about them

Oh I am sorry I forgot
IT IS ON YOUR TUBE SO IT MUST BE TRUE RELEVENT & IMPORTANT
And before defenders come screaming in with the "but he has X millon followers " I reffer you to the joke we thought was funny when we were were 5 about eating poo & files being wrong .

And to pinch some thing from Hammer.
He is "Just some random guy without a clue on the internet with some tools he found."


#53

G

Gord Baker

Don't overthink this. They are all made in the slums of Mumbai. The important thing is to change it yearly.


#54

G

GrumpyCat

bertsmobile1 said:
Because their is no legal definition of synthetic
So any oil that is broken down into parts then reassembled can be called synthetic.
Click to expand...
There is no performance specification for synthetic motor oil. All one has to do is go through accepted "synthetic" motions in manufacture, there is no requirement of what is actually produced.

There is a vague legal definition. Mobil-1 famously sued Castrol Syntech, but it was in a private marketing court of arbitration. The judge ruled Syntech was making extra effort super-refining their base oil and that was good enough to be marketed as "synthetic".


#55

G

GrumpyCat

moparjoe said:
Fram

FRAM filters are nothing but a painted piece of junk. I have had trouble with the internal oil seal coming out.
Click to expand...
What is an "internal oil seal"? Pics or it didn't happen.


#56

G

GrumpyCat

tomw0 said:
As far as I know, all 'OEM' branded oil filter(and air filters) are made by independent firms. Just as their engines for the most part are not made 'in-house', the same holds true for the filters.
Click to expand...
I fully agree Kohler does not make their own oil filters but are you claiming Kohler does not make their own engines?

OE is the oil filter Kohler sells and fitted as Original Equipment. This is much different from OEM.

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer. This is the manufacturer who made the oil filter for Kohler. We have no idea who this is, but sometimes people dig deep and find out. That doesn't mean you can buy an identical spec oil filter from that company.

Auto parts companies could not purchase genuine parts from automakers, who reserved their parts exclusively to dealers selling the high dollar automobile. So the independent auto parts dealers searched out the OEMs and started buying parts direct from the OEM. Can not sell as OE but can sell as OEM.

The problem with OEM is that for example Goodyear is the tire OEM for my F-150. There is exactly one tire from Goodyear that is OE, but every tire made by Goodyear, even those which are totally unsuitable for my F-150, are OEM.

As for oil filters, if it fits it doesn't make much difference.


#57

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

My oil filter is better than your oil filter.

My day to be internet troll.


#58

T

Talltree

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help
Click to expand...


#59

T

Talltree

52-050-02s will wok fine.


#60

R

RevB

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
Why? Wix doesn't work?
Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...

Oil filter cross reference

1 replacement oil filter for KOHLER 2505040
www.oilfilter-crossreference.com

That's how the internet works.


#61

M

Majestor

slomo said:
My walymart doesn't have supertech oil filters anymore. They have the oil which I use. SG rated SAE30W with tons of zinc and some other magic sprinkles.
Click to expand...


#62

M

Majestor

If I may add my two sense, the Wix filter that you have on your mower now is a highly rated filter manufacturer. Just do a Google search of filters comparison and you will find that most will have Wix at the top or very close. I would Not put a Fram filter on my mother-in-laws car. They are at the very bottom on a list of filter comparisons.


#63

H

Honest Abe

bertsmobile1 said:
Well that was a total waste of 11 minutes of my remaining time on the planet
The monkey with the tools has almost no understanding and even his superficial "reveal" was done wrong as the filer material inside the end caps is still available to the oil so even his very rudemental calculation of the surface areas was wrong
The thickness of the container is meaningless as a oil filter is neither stressed not highly pressurised and of course his measurements included the paint.
So the only teak take away is 2 of the 3 filters were made on the same machine using the same shape components.
What is important is the function of the anti drain back valve & the pressure release valve neither of which was tested.
Click to expand...
speaking of wasting time... shezzzzzzzzzz!!!


#64

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

RevB said:
Why? Wix doesn't work?

Oil filter cross reference

1 replacement oil filter for KOHLER 2505040
www.oilfilter-crossreference.com

That's how the internet works.
Click to expand...
I did find Doug's question a bit odd as well unless Doug is like, 12, with his push mower out knocking on doors and dreading that first oil change. And I suppose modern young folks don't have the hands-on prep some of us oldsters acquired at the elbow of a dad or older brother. I had a 47 Chev Woody with a roll of tp as the filter matrix. That might not have been OE. Can't say.

Still, the Wix/NAPA filter has a coil spring, not a stamped spring inside, along with some engineered matrix presumably superior to cardboard, metal ends ... and $5 more. Big whoop.


#65

Z

Zedo

Imajkrsl said:
Kohler 7000 series, try this one on Amazon

Kohler 12 050 01-s1 Oil Filter​

Click to expand...
Yep, I get the 2 pack for my Kohler 7000 series 22 HP 2 pack on Amazon are $13.98+ tax, I get free shipping cause I'm a member.


#66

B

bertsmobile1

There is not a single national brand oil filter that does not work or will causes damage to engines .
If there was then 25,000 lawyers would be sueing them on a daily basis.
As I said before all oil filters go through rigerous testing and just because you, the person who has not done a second of materials science education do not under stand how they work & why they work and more importantly why particular materials are used is just pig headed ignorant predjuice .
And yet again, if we say it often enough it might sink in
Change your oil immediately after the last mow every season and the oil filter can sit there untouched for the entire very long life of the mower
Mower engines are the very bottom end in design, crude rude & unsofistigated made to the lowest possible cost & thus lowest performance
So agonizing over the oil filter is a fools errand


#67

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

bertsmobile1 said:
And yet again, if we say it often enough it might sink in
Click to expand...
Why Bert? Why keep saying it and getting all hot? You've had two goes in the last 10 posts. That seems like plenty of repetition. It's actually annoying. Why the need to have "it" sink in? What's the payoff for you? What if someone simply chooses to have a high dollar filter on a low dollar machine? Do we need to sneak around and act all innocent while purchasing behind your back? Is permission required? If someone mentions YouTube again will you have a cardiac arrest? And your spelling needs attention. Ever wonder about that redline? How many times do you need to hear it before it sinks in?


#68

H

hustlersuperduty

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
Been a parts manager for 22 years. Will always recommend factory filters and small engine oils. The zinc that they add to the oil is only available in mower oils. I truly believe it makes a difference. Toro makes a great full synthetic and Kawasaki makes a great partial synthetic. My motto has always been " oil is cheap, engines are high " . In all my years I have never trashed an engine. Currently running a Briggs V twin with over 2500 hours. Factory filters and Kawasaki oils.


#69

B

bertsmobile1

tgzzzz said:
Why Bert? Why keep saying it and getting all hot? You've had two goes in the last 10 posts. That seems like plenty of repetition. It's actually annoying. Why the need to have "it" sink in? What's the payoff for you? What if someone simply chooses to have a high dollar filter on a low dollar machine? Do we need to sneak around and act all innocent while purchasing behind your back? Is permission required? If someone mentions YouTube again will you have a cardiac arrest? And your spelling needs attention. Ever wonder about that redline? How many times do you need to hear it before it sinks in?
Click to expand...
TG
Yes it needs repeating
day in & day out the same questions keep on coming up.
Many of which are because instead of consulting a mechanic or a forum associated with a site like this they go looking at You Tube videos the bulk of which are trash uploaded to inflate the already over inflated egos of the poster or to suck the fools in and make lots of money.
The fact that there is so much confusion, misinformation & general distrust is confirmed that the simple question posted by Douglas that should have been answered in 2 or 3 replies is now 7 pages long .
For the fun of it and to have a resource to point others to I started a thread You tube videos worth watching
I think we got to about 8 so that speaks volumes when you consider there is over 4000 people on this forum and over 200,000 mower videos on You Tube .
I always liked the quote from "a Fish Called Wanda " apes can read they just do not understand what they are reading and that applies to some where around 80 % of You tube videos , that trash filter reveal being a perfect example .
Sorry about the spelling , since I bleed out & got revived 3 times some parts of the grey cells do not work as good as they could and I ended up being quite innumerate & the dyslexia became chronic so the spelling suffers and of course I use English not American so there are a lot of words spelt correctly that American spell checkers bring up as being wrong then auto correct to a totally different word .
And I am not hot & bothered but some times you have to yell because people are just not listening or to wake up a closed sleeping mind .
After all I am not the one with a broken mower or in this case getting ulcers over a trivial point that does not matter , eithe filter would have ben fine as by & large the filters do very little .


#70

T

Tom O'

Douglasdzaster said:
Hello everyone, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Kohler KT745. I need to change the oil there is currently a Wix 51056 oil filter on it. I want to put a Kohler but can’t find it. The sticker on the machine says part number 25 050 40 which is like hunting a ghost. I’ve researched and come up with 2 possibilities. Kohler 52 050 02-S which I bought but haven’t unboxed because now I see a Kohler 12 050 01-s is recommended.
Can someone please educate me. Will they both work? Or which one is it?
If it fits will it work?View attachment 64620
I really appreciate any information shared. Please help!
Click to expand...
I once read not to use an automobile oil filter on a motorcycle due to pressure differences. Not likely an issue with Kohler filters though.


#71

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

bertsmobile1 said:
TG
Yes it needs repeating
day in & day out the same questions keep on coming up.
Many of which are because instead of consulting a mechanic or a forum associated with a site like this they go looking at You Tube videos the bulk of which are trash uploaded to inflate the already over inflated egos of the poster or to suck the fools in and make lots of money.
The fact that there is so much confusion, misinformation & general distrust is confirmed that the simple question posted by Douglas that should have been answered in 2 or 3 replies is now 7 pages long .
For the fun of it and to have a resource to point others to I started a thread You tube videos worth watching
I think we got to about 8 so that speaks volumes when you consider there is over 4000 people on this forum and over 200,000 mower videos on You Tube .
I always liked the quote from "a Fish Called Wanda " apes can read they just do not understand what they are reading and that applies to some where around 80 % of You tube videos , that trash filter reveal being a perfect example .
Sorry about the spelling , since I bleed out & got revived 3 times some parts of the grey cells do not work as good as they could and I ended up being quite innumerate & the dyslexia became chronic so the spelling suffers and of course I use English not American so there are a lot of words spelt correctly that American spell checkers bring up as being wrong then auto correct to a totally different word .
And I am not hot & bothered but some times you have to yell because people are just not listening or to wake up a closed sleeping mind .
After all I am not the one with a broken mower or in this case getting ulcers over a trivial point that does not matter , eithe filter would have ben fine as by & large the filters do very little .
Click to expand...
Thanks for the courteous reply. I haven't looked here but some sites have a "sticky" post at the beginning explaining FAQs to alleviate the problem. When that kind of question comes up, the first reader refers the noob to the sticky.

I've noticed that on the net, some questions are actually just a request to chat about the topic. That's how it goes to seven pages ... it's fun. For this thread, I don't believe the OP really didn't know about filter # cross references. What he MAYBE didn't know was he already had a better filter than OE.

I find YouTube very helpful as a reference tool, and use it. As an entertainment site? No thanks. Cheers!


#72

B

bertsmobile1

Any one can be wrong
I am just as capable of making mistakes as any body else and try to fess up to them when I do .
However there is no excuse for spreading misinformation on the scale that You Tube & Face Book do
Even worse is that posters become some sort of guru's in the eyes of their followers who believe every word that is posted is the gospel truth
Last year a popular poster put up a history of BSA that was so full of mistakes it was not funny.
Several people posted comments to correct the errors , without being nasty or abusive
I got over 5,000 abusive posts from his disciples and another person, far more knowledgable that I copped even more plus trolling and abusive emails to family members .
Now I have seen this totally wrong information popping up all over the place and our corrections seems to have been pulled .
This is the big problem with things like You Tube, they stay there forever and fiction becomes fact despite it being pure fantasy


#73

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

“Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up the rear of every funeral I meet; and especially whenever my hypos get such an upper hand of me, that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street, and methodically knocking people's hats off--then, I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can. This is my substitute for pistol and ball. With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship.”​

― Herman Melville, Moby Dick
:cool:


#74

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

"However there is no excuse for spreading misinformation on the scale that You Tube & Face Book do"

Hey man, don't be dissing the Tube. Before utube I didn't know beans from apple butter. Now that I have a channel I have become an instant expert on everything. I get to promote urban myths as fact and if you dare to disagree with me that's hate speech.





LOL. 😂😂😂😂😂😂


#75

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

slomo said:
My walymart doesn't have supertech oil filters anymore. They have the oil which I use. SG rated SAE30W with tons of zinc and some other magic sprinkles.
Click to expand...
why would walmart not have their own filters?


#76

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

Scrubcadet10 said:
why would walmart not have their own filters?
Click to expand...
They have ST in my area


#77

T

TobyU

Bert is right.
Whatever you heard it's more than likely wrong! Lol
This crap about once you go to synthetic you can never go back it's just that crap..
People say similar things about never switching brands of oil also which is also crap and just made up Hocus pocus that someone believed in their own mind and said it enough times and enough people believed it and then of course enter the internet so they could tell more people and now it's become kind of an urban legend but it's still a legend.

Now back to oil filters: I guess you should do whatever makes you sleep better at night as people have been doing this with their automobiles making sure they buy an AC Delco for a GM or a motorcraft for a Ford for decades because it makes them feel all warm and fuzzy but in reality unless you're getting them for the same price or cheaper you're just wasting money.. except for most frams or the orange fram standard ones, I won't even put those on a lawn mower!
I wouldn't put one of those on a bicycle and they don't even have oil or oil filters.
No manufacturer makes their own oil filters anyways as they're always made by someone for them and over the years they change manufacturers too and there have been proven differences in quality among the same brand and part numbers of certain filters over the years.

Point being, hardly anyone makes a better filter than Wix so you just can't go wrong with one of those and thinking that replacing a wix with a kohler, Briggs & stratton, Kawasaki or other engine brand filter is just silly and probably counterproductive.

Secondly, it's a lawn mower engine.
All the stuff that Bert said is true.
It's not like a car and these engines lasted 30 and 40 years under hard use before they ever had an oil filter on them AND let's not forget the old oils they were using which some people never pass up the chance to tell you how old are superior and advanced nowadays but we can certainly argue about that too.

Thirdly, of all the problems people have with lawn mowers , failures, engine failures etc basically you can look at every number and every box that's checked and you can find out that pretty much none of them are because of the oil filter or the brand, type of oil synthetic versus dimensional, or even the weight of oil.
Any boxes or numbers you would see in the failures attributed to that but probably just be sloppiness or air from the people who entered them because in the real world none of these things make much difference.

What DOES matter is having enough oil in it and not having any leaks bad enough to lower the level too dangerous levels.
So as long as the oil filter is it damaged, installed improperly, leaking around the gasket due to an old gasket being stuck on there or not being the proper size so it can't seal completely and as long as there's some sort of automotive oil in the crankcase whether it be SAE 30, SAE 40, 15w40, 5w40, 10w30, 10w40, 20 w 50 or several others even and as long as it's at a safe level on the dipstick THEN it really makes little difference.

People can pull themselves and convince themselves all they want but this is how it plays out in the real world.

People bring me lawn mowers that are well over 20 years old that probably haven't had the oil changed and at least 18 of those years. Maybe, just maybe they changed it once or twice in the first 3 years some don't even get that..
All they have had done is topped off for the entire life of the mower.
The oil is about as black as you can get, it's thicker than it should be but guess what.... The engine still run fine and they still have tons of life left in them.
On the other hand I get a handful of mowers in every year most of which are relatively new and under 4 years old that are completely locked up because the owner bought it new and never checked the oil since the day they put it into service.

So in the real world it's not about brand a filter or oil or the frequency of changes or the cleanliness etc but rather the presence of enough oil or basically the amount.


I use a 51348 on every briggs, kohler, Chinese/Lincoln etc as they might be a little longer but pretty much fit on everything except a few of the r1000s or rear engine rider Troy-Bilt and Craftsman because they can hit due to the mounting of the engine.
There are several different part numbers that are basically the same filter just different links but the 51348 is the most common all around one that fits pretty much everything but Kawasaki.
Those typically get a 51394.


#78

M

MParr

TobyU said:
Bert is right.
Whatever you heard it's more than likely wrong! Lol
This crap about once you go to synthetic you can never go back it's just that crap..
People say similar things about never switching brands of oil also which is also crap and just made up Hocus pocus that someone believed in their own mind and said it enough times and enough people believed it and then of course enter the internet so they could tell more people and now it's become kind of an urban legend but it's still a legend.

Now back to oil filters: I guess you should do whatever makes you sleep better at night as people have been doing this with their automobiles making sure they buy an AC Delco for a GM or a motorcraft for a Ford for decades because it makes them feel all warm and fuzzy but in reality unless you're getting them for the same price or cheaper you're just wasting money.. except for most frams or the orange fram standard ones, I won't even put those on a lawn mower!
I wouldn't put one of those on a bicycle and they don't even have oil or oil filters.
No manufacturer makes their own oil filters anyways as they're always made by someone for them and over the years they change manufacturers too and there have been proven differences in quality among the same brand and part numbers of certain filters over the years.

Point being, hardly anyone makes a better filter than Wix so you just can't go wrong with one of those and thinking that replacing a wix with a kohler, Briggs & stratton, Kawasaki or other engine brand filter is just silly and probably counterproductive.

Secondly, it's a lawn mower engine.
All the stuff that Bert said is true.
It's not like a car and these engines lasted 30 and 40 years under hard use before they ever had an oil filter on them AND let's not forget the old oils they were using which some people never pass up the chance to tell you how old are superior and advanced nowadays but we can certainly argue about that too.

Thirdly, of all the problems people have with lawn mowers , failures, engine failures etc basically you can look at every number and every box that's checked and you can find out that pretty much none of them are because of the oil filter or the brand, type of oil synthetic versus dimensional, or even the weight of oil.
Any boxes or numbers you would see in the failures attributed to that but probably just be sloppiness or air from the people who entered them because in the real world none of these things make much difference.

What DOES matter is having enough oil in it and not having any leaks bad enough to lower the level too dangerous levels.
So as long as the oil filter is it damaged, installed improperly, leaking around the gasket due to an old gasket being stuck on there or not being the proper size so it can't seal completely and as long as there's some sort of automotive oil in the crankcase whether it be SAE 30, SAE 40, 15w40, 5w40, 10w30, 10w40, 20 w 50 or several others even and as long as it's at a safe level on the dipstick THEN it really makes little difference.

People can pull themselves and convince themselves all they want but this is how it plays out in the real world.

People bring me lawn mowers that are well over 20 years old that probably haven't had the oil changed and at least 18 of those years. Maybe, just maybe they changed it once or twice in the first 3 years some don't even get that..
All they have had done is topped off for the entire life of the mower.
The oil is about as black as you can get, it's thicker than it should be but guess what.... The engine still run fine and they still have tons of life left in them.
On the other hand I get a handful of mowers in every year most of which are relatively new and under 4 years old that are completely locked up because the owner bought it new and never checked the oil since the day they put it into service.

So in the real world it's not about brand a filter or oil or the frequency of changes or the cleanliness etc but rather the presence of enough oil or basically the amount.


I use a 51348 on every briggs, kohler, Chinese/Lincoln etc as they might be a little longer but pretty much fit on everything except a few of the r1000s or rear engine rider Troy-Bilt and Craftsman because they can hit due to the mounting of the engine.
There are several different part numbers that are basically the same filter just different links but the 51348 is the most common all around one that fits pretty much everything but Kawasaki.
Those typically get a 51394.
Click to expand...
I agree for the most part. One thing to note, a WIX 51394/NAPA Gold 1394 will not work on a Loncin made 708cc engine. The filter’s base plate will bottom out on the filter mounting flange. This doesn’t allow for the filter gasket to fully compress and you get an oil leak. For the Loncin made 708cc engine, get the Toro/Exmark branded filter, STP S4967, or FRAM TG4967.


#79

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

Cub Cadet is the best lawn mower ever designed. Mine revs like a F1, cuts like a laser, and never needs new blades. Jes' sayin."


#80

G

GrumpyCat

TobyU said:
Bert is right.
Whatever you heard it's more than likely wrong! Lol
This crap about once you go to synthetic you can never go back it's just that crap..
People say similar things about never switching brands of oil also which is also crap and just made up Hocus pocus that someone believed in their own mind and said it enough times and enough people believed it and then of course enter the internet so they could tell more people and now it's become kind of an urban legend but it's still a legend.
Click to expand...
It is not crap or made up Hocus Pocus. But it is 50 years out of date.

Once Upon A Time oil formulation did not understand its effect on the swelling of gaskets, or even the vinyl of oil seals. Refining oil was an art not so much a science. Lots of things were being done in production that were not understood but no one dared change. Changing to a different brand of oil often changed the swelling of gaskets and oil seals, resulting in leaks. Not really understanding what is happening the rule became, "Use one oil until the next rebuild."

Then along came synthetic motor oil which shed all traditions and past practices. Had no idea about gasket and oil seal swelling. When a synthetic oil was put in an engine which had seals swollen by refined oil, the swelling leeched out, the seals shrunk, and leaked. This was blamed on synthetic oil but was commonly witnessed changing brands of refined oils.

Today we know gaskets and oil seals swell with oil. It is now part of the SAE/API spec. Gasket and oil seal makers know to design for it. Oil manufacturers know to design for it. There is no longer an issue changing oil brands or refined/synthetic.


#81

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

Bert was commenting about how crude these air cooled engines are along the lines of oil filters don't matter much. I wonder. An old flathead sure but these newer OHV? Hondas and Kawasakis are crude?


#82

G

GrumpyCat

tgzzzz said:
Bert was commenting about how crude these air cooled engines are along the lines of oil filters don't matter much. I wonder. An old flathead sure but these newer OHV? Hondas and Kawasakis are crude?
Click to expand...
I don't think "crude" is the correct term. But I will agree our OHV engines are lower stressed than high output automobile engines.

I will agree with all engines the oil filter is only there to remove the worst particulates. Generally carbon which has accumulated on a cooler surface, then fallen off as a big chunk. Is best for the oil's detergents keep the carbon soot on suspension (which means it passes through any oil filter) to be removed from the engine when the oil is drained.

Have asked on other forums and never been answered, "What is the relationship between oil filter micron rating and engine life? Spell it out. If I have a 10 micron filter how much longer will my engine last vs 50 micron filter?" Have concluded oil filter micron rating is a Marketing Mind Game. You absolutely do not question a finer micron filter is better than a larger micron filter. Therefore Marketing doesn't have to provide engine life data. Can't help think they would provide the data if engine life was significantly increased.


#83

B

bertsmobile1

tgzzzz said:
Bert was commenting about how crude these air cooled engines are along the lines of oil filters don't matter much. I wonder. An old flathead sure but these newer OHV? Hondas and Kawasakis are crude?
Click to expand...
The last Yamaha motorcycle engine I pulled down had metering jets on every cam bushing on the DOHC head to control the oil flow
Every where else the oil hole drillings were different sizes to get the right oil pressure / flow to do the job required
It was 500 cc , produced 6 times the torque of their 500cc mower engine
Mower engines have 2 at best oil holes ( if any at all ) and use splash to lube everything other than the big end and even then some still use splash for that.
Have a good look at the rockers , nearly all of them are simple spring loaded ball & sockets not full shafts & bushes .
So yes rude rude & unsofisticated
Which by the way is what you want for a lawn mower that will be used , abused & neglected
Do not conflate crude with frail or unfit for purpose.
The prime criteria for a mower engine is to be cheaper than the opposition in every Hp rating .
So oil filters are quite arbitory & argueing about them dose little than display the lack of understanding about engines & lubrication .
The addition of external oil filters is more of a sales gimmick than a requirement for the particular engine over it's designed service life.
For decades both B & S and Tecumseh had an oil filter fitted that just circulated oil from the sump through the filter then back to the sump .
Even now when you read specifications you will see "External oil Filter " on one engine and the next one up in price will be labeled "Spin on oil filter with pressure fed crank shaft " and on a few "Spin on oil filter with full pressure lubrication "
All 3 are different , first is just splash , second has oil to the big end only , last has oil to big end & upper crankshaft bush .
Not a single one I have pulled down have rolling element support of any type for the crankshaft , or even a thrust race to support the crank


#84

tgzzzz

tgzzzz

Outstanding post Bert. Thank you.

Edited to add this out of place question: how long do residential ZRT hydrogears last?


#85

U

upnorthwi

Honest Abe said:
duhhhh, look up 2 posts from your original post. . . . .
Click to expand...
I appreciate your rude "duhhhh", comment. So, buddy, "look up 2 posts from your original post. . . . ." and tell me where there is a cross reference chart. If you can't be positive or helpful, keep your comments to yourself.


#86

H

Honest Abe

upnorthwi said:
I appreciate your rude "duhhhh", comment. So, buddy, "look up 2 posts from your original post. . . . ." and tell me where there is a cross reference chart. If you can't be positive or helpful, keep your comments to yourself.
Click to expand...


Oil filter cross reference​

312 replacement oil filters for KOHLER 52 050 02. See cross reference chart for KOHLER 52 050 02 and more than 200.000 other oil filters.
***** www.oilfilter-crossreference.com *****

Hmmmm, I guess you missed THIS cross reference chart, duhhhh. If you can't read maybe you shouldn't post . . . . . .


#87

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

moparjoe said:
Go to NAPA and buy the same oil filter that it has now. NAPA has them so stop being picky. There, problem solved.
Click to expand...
Napa quoted me $30 for a filter for that mower. Didn’t offer another Wix or any other options.


#88

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

VTevaD said:
You're overthinking this. Clean oil of proper weight, new whatever filter and make sure your air filter is clean. More important, don't push it too hard and overheat it when grass is wet or thick. A hand held infrared thermometer gun from Harbor Freight works great for monitoring the temp. Take breaks, let it cool in the shade for few and do a little weed whacking or have a beer.
Click to expand...
I have an ir gun from Harbor Freight that I use to monitor my 1992 40hp Yamaha outboard.
What temperature do I look for on this Husqvarna 2654? I always make sure the intake and filter is clean. I replace all my air filters instead of cleaning. Way cheaper than a new engine.


#89

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

Man oh Man I haven’t been on here in a while and come back to ask another question about the mower and noticed this had grown to 9 pages. I appreciate y’all’s input but I didn’t mean to start a ruckus.
I think all of y’all are awesome.
I have a easy question that I’ll start another post on it has nothing to do with oil I promise.


#90

B

bertsmobile1

Douglasdzaster said:
Napa quoted me $30 for a filter for that mower. Didn’t offer another Wix or any other options.
Click to expand...
Fit a B & S long ( or short if you like )
Stens sell them , made by Champion who are the OEM suppliers to most engine makers for about 1/3 the OE price
Heck , I charge my customers $ 20 ( Aus ) for a Stens filter and feel guilty about that
All mower engine filters are basically the same spec, apart from the metric ones , which are also similar enough to be interchanged except they have metric threads .
FWIW I keep only the Stens B & S long ( bought in manufacturers packs ) and the B & S short ( for when there is not enough space for a long to fit ) + 3 metric ones because there are 3 different hole sizes & threads
Buying mower parts from car shops often end up being more expensive than buying mower parts from mower parts companies .


#91

B

bertsmobile1

Douglasdzaster said:
Man oh Man I haven’t been on here in a while and come back to ask another question about the mower and noticed this had grown to 9 pages. I appreciate y’all’s input but I didn’t mean to start a ruckus.
I think all of y’all are awesome.
I have a easy question that I’ll start another post on it has nothing to do with oil I promise.
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Oil threads are always full of armchair experts who have little to no understanding about lubrication
Oil filters come a close second
Always fun
Over the years it has become very apparent the less people know about some thing the more ardently they will argue about it .
Remember all of the "experts" who have not done 1 minute of biology study let alone virology study argueing about Covid.
All experts in their own minds
And I know one person who sold their house & moved because they KNEW the 5G tower that was build near by would cause every one to get Covid .


The good thing is some of the ill informed will read this posts and actually do some thinking about it rather than blindly following their Face Book hero.
Like religion there is no way to convince those with closed minds that what they believe is wrong but the ones who are capable of thinking might get some benefit from it .

I do not consider myself an oil expert in any way shape of form but I did study lubrication for 13 weeks at college and latter on taught it for 8 years so I do have a basic understanding , enough to understand that cutting an oil filter open proves absolutely nothing unless you subject the contents to physical & chemical tests and even then you need to do it regularly to establish base lines .
X-Ray diffraction of oil ( which I was involved in back in the 70's ) will tell you what alloys the metallic parts are and the chemical composition of the non metallics.
Chemical analysis , usually flame chromotography will tell you the metals present and roughly their concentrations but not enough to determine if the iron came from the cylinder liner or crankshaft journal but it is the most commonly done because it is cheap & easily automated .
So now the nay-sayers will feel the need to chime in and we will roll over the 10 page count .


#92

G

GrumpyCat

bertsmobile1 said:
I do not consider myself an oil expert in any way shape of form but I did study lubrication for 13 weeks at college and latter on taught it for 8 years so I do have a basic understanding , enough to understand that cutting an oil filter open proves absolutely nothing unless you subject the contents to physical & chemical tests and even then you need to do it regularly to establish base lines .
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Cutting a new filter open only tells you whether there really is a filter inside. Cutting a used filter open tells you whether the filter element collapsed. And if parts fall out you know the engine is in failure. This is why aviation operations require the filter to be inspected after use.

Fram is popularly dissed by the ignorant for using fiber end plates on the filter element. "Cardboard!" they cry! Well so what? the element is paper. If the "cardboard" does its job (cut used filters open) then it did its job.

Anyone remember the JC Whitney reloadable toilet paper oil filter? It checks all the boxes for a superior oil filter!


#93

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

GrumpyCat said:
Cutting a new filter open only tells you whether there really is a filter inside. Cutting a used filter open tells you whether the filter element collapsed. And if parts fall out you know the engine is in failure. This is why aviation operations require the filter to be inspected after use.

Fram is popularly dissed by the ignorant for using fiber end plates on the filter element. "Cardboard!" they cry! Well so what? the element is paper. If the "cardboard" does its job (cut used filters open) then it did its job.

Anyone remember the JC Whitney reloadable toilet paper oil filter? It checks all the boxes for a superior oil filter!
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Never thought about opening an oil filter I’d removed to check for engine trouble. I inspect the old oil and even send it to a lab every now and then. I started doing this when I realized the truck I had bought was high maintenance and has to be done often. It sure is fun to drive though.


#94

H

Honest Abe

Douglasdzaster said:
Never thought about opening an oil filter I’d removed to check for engine trouble. I inspect the old oil and even send it to a lab every now and then. I started doing this when I realized the truck I had bought was high maintenance and has to be done often. It sure is fun to drive though.
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Or a person could just drain the oil into an oil pan then get a nice strong magnet and set it in the oil pan and pull it out after a minute and see if there are any metal shavings built up on it.


#95

G

GrumpyCat

Honest Abe said:
Or a person could just drain the oil into an oil pan then get a nice strong magnet and set it in the oil pan and pull it out after a minute and see if there are any metal shavings built up on it.
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Parts found in the oil pan are too big to get pumped to the filter.

Many engines have a magnet affixed to the drain plug. Lately this feature has disappeared, my 4 newest engines lack.


#96

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

Honest Abe said:
Or a person could just drain the oil into an oil pan then get a nice strong magnet and set it in the oil pan and pull it out after a minute and see if there are any metal shavings built up on it.
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Done that before too. Magnet won’t pick up aluminum though the way everything is made now a days.
My wife came home one day and said she had a surprise for me. She pulled out a couple of magnetic cup holders and said this is for your boat. I almost didn’t have the heart to tell her.


#97

B

bertsmobile1

OK I will pay that , you can see if there has been a catastrophic failure internally by cutting the filter open
What I should have said was cutting filters open to compare them will tell you nothing unless you do physical, mechanical & chemical tests on the contents .
And your comment about Fram filters is quite appropriate
There were several posters who were religiously ardent that a Fram filter would destroy their engine , a closed mind opinion based on pig ignorance .
The fibre end plates are actually stronger & last longer than the metal ones because the glue is holding fibre to fibre and the fibre ends expand & contract at a very similar rate to the fibre filter media
Glueing paper to steel is very difficult because they requires 2 totally different types of adheasives plus they expand & contract at vastly different rates .

Douglas.
You must plot the metals concentrations on a graph if you want the oil analysis to be of any use.
And it has to be done very regularly.
Wear is exponential so the graph of time vs individual metals will follow a typical exponential curve so the point of inflection (where a tangental line to the curve hits 45 deg ) is when the part needs to be replaced
We could tell to almost the minute when helicopter engines were going to fail ( or a particular part was about to fail ).
This was backed up by the actual visual inspections & this work revolutionised aircraft maintenance as stripping an engine to check for wear does quite a lot of damage in itself and there is always the potential for say a bush to get moved if a shaft is carelessly forced through it during reassembly .
Plotting the volumes of metallics in the oil by XRD is so much better as nearly every part is made from a different alloy so we could plot piston wear, gudgeon pin wear , crank journal wear , cam wear , cam bush wear , cam follower wear etc etc etc
But it has to be graphed or you can not make sense of it as wear increases with use .
We plotted oil micro particulates and oil filter particulates and we found the oil to be a much better indicator than the filter as the bulk of what gets trapped by the filter is carbon or carbon compounds and by the time you get significant metallic parts in the filter media the part has already worn past it safe limit .

The whole shooting match got closed down for reasons I can not divulge here and those involved were either sacked if they were lab employees or court marshalled for the military personnel .
The civilians went to the USA or UK where they set up similar services and became quite wealthy , another case of ignorant Australian politicians and senior government officials shooting the country in the foot.
We are real experts in doing that down here .


#98

R

RayMcD

TobyU said:
Bert is right.
Whatever you heard it's more than likely wrong! Lol
This crap about once you go to synthetic you can never go back it's just that crap..
People say similar things about never switching brands of oil also which is also crap and just made up Hocus pocus that someone believed in their own mind and said it enough times and enough people believed it and then of course enter the internet so they could tell more people and now it's become kind of an urban legend but it's still a legend.

Now back to oil filters: I guess you should do whatever makes you sleep better at night as people have been doing this with their automobiles making sure they buy an AC Delco for a GM or a motorcraft for a Ford for decades because it makes them feel all warm and fuzzy but in reality unless you're getting them for the same price or cheaper you're just wasting money.. except for most frams or the orange fram standard ones, I won't even put those on a lawn mower!
I wouldn't put one of those on a bicycle and they don't even have oil or oil filters.
No manufacturer makes their own oil filters anyways as they're always made by someone for them and over the years they change manufacturers too and there have been proven differences in quality among the same brand and part numbers of certain filters over the years.

Point being, hardly anyone makes a better filter than Wix so you just can't go wrong with one of those and thinking that replacing a wix with a kohler, Briggs & stratton, Kawasaki or other engine brand filter is just silly and probably counterproductive.

Secondly, it's a lawn mower engine.
All the stuff that Bert said is true.
It's not like a car and these engines lasted 30 and 40 years under hard use before they ever had an oil filter on them AND let's not forget the old oils they were using which some people never pass up the chance to tell you how old are superior and advanced nowadays but we can certainly argue about that too.

Thirdly, of all the problems people have with lawn mowers , failures, engine failures etc basically you can look at every number and every box that's checked and you can find out that pretty much none of them are because of the oil filter or the brand, type of oil synthetic versus dimensional, or even the weight of oil.
Any boxes or numbers you would see in the failures attributed to that but probably just be sloppiness or air from the people who entered them because in the real world none of these things make much difference.

What DOES matter is having enough oil in it and not having any leaks bad enough to lower the level too dangerous levels.
So as long as the oil filter is it damaged, installed improperly, leaking around the gasket due to an old gasket being stuck on there or not being the proper size so it can't seal completely and as long as there's some sort of automotive oil in the crankcase whether it be SAE 30, SAE 40, 15w40, 5w40, 10w30, 10w40, 20 w 50 or several others even and as long as it's at a safe level on the dipstick THEN it really makes little difference.

People can pull themselves and convince themselves all they want but this is how it plays out in the real world.

People bring me lawn mowers that are well over 20 years old that probably haven't had the oil changed and at least 18 of those years. Maybe, just maybe they changed it once or twice in the first 3 years some don't even get that..
All they have had done is topped off for the entire life of the mower.
The oil is about as black as you can get, it's thicker than it should be but guess what.... The engine still run fine and they still have tons of life left in them.
On the other hand I get a handful of mowers in every year most of which are relatively new and under 4 years old that are completely locked up because the owner bought it new and never checked the oil since the day they put it into service.

So in the real world it's not about brand a filter or oil or the frequency of changes or the cleanliness etc but rather the presence of enough oil or basically the amount.


I use a 51348 on every briggs, kohler, Chinese/Lincoln etc as they might be a little longer but pretty much fit on everything except a few of the r1000s or rear engine rider Troy-Bilt and Craftsman because they can hit due to the mounting of the engine.
There are several different part numbers that are basically the same filter just different links but the 51348 is the most common all around one that fits pretty much everything but Kawasaki.
Those typically get a 51394.
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Mr. T, the two filter you mention have the same spec except the 51348 is ~ 1/2" taller, why would you not put it on a Kawasaki? r


#99

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

After going back through a lot of the conversations on this thread . Which I had know idea it would blow up when I ask about the oil filter. 😂
Ive received a plethora of information to absorb.
I’m just a 57 year old shad tree guy that has done all my own work until the past few years. 30 years ago I more than once bought a truck cheap with a blown engine and went to a junk yard and bought a good used engine and have it swapped out in a weekend. I’ve had engines on mowers outlast the machine it’s self and would find me a machine that needed an engine and kept on running.
Now with all the changes I’m asking more questions than I have answers. I’ve about convinced myself things just aren’t made to last anymore. I know that the last few push mowers I’ve bought new each one last a little less longer than the last. I change my oil. It’s always checked before each use along with the air filter. Blown off with air after each use with frequent removed cowling and deep cleaned and detailed to look new again. Always fresh ethanol free fuel.
Thats what’s the shame about this Husqvarna with the Kohler y’all are helping me with. Yes the lady let it sit outside for a long time without starting. But it only has 60hrs. On it and I see one of the valve covers was leaking when she parked it. And knowing her she probably over heated it. Another reason I’m trying to find out what the operation temperature should be. Doesn’t seem to be in the manual.
When I mentioned sending in my oil to a lab. That’s for my 3.5 Ecoboost turbocharged in a truck I traded my 2005 with 285k on it. I started finding out about how these engines need more maintenance and like to be worked and taking trips to town often won’t cut it. So I send in an oil sample every now and then to check for fuel bypass. The way I’m actually avoiding any problems is when I haven’t towed anything and have made a few short trips. I get on a stretch of road I found. Put it in sport mode get on the brake and get it up to about 20 grand on the Tach and turn it loose (takes off like a jack rabbit) and run it until I have to slow down because of the road. This was the advice I was given to take care of it by other owners and mechanics on an Ecoboost
forum. When I go on a 200 mile or more round trip it lives it. Oil level doesn’t change and I go from 15-17 to 19-20 mpg.
All this was unheard of by me 20 years ago.
Theres my 2cents about today’s machines. From an old shad tree guy. I really appreciate all of y’all’s help during this adventure. Check out the final thread I started called One thing after another so I can ask all my questions without creating different topics.
I really need the help. Sometimes I said all I knew when I said hello. 😂


#100

BubbaSam

BubbaSam

Imajkrsl said:
Kohler 7000 series, try this one on Amazon

Kohler 12 050 01-s1 Oil Filter​

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Just be careful and don't buy anything for your mower from Stevens Lake Parts on Amazon. They show ACTUAL OEM parts but nothing but Chinese junk came in. My Ferris internal air cleaner was literally falling apart when it arrived to do the lack of quality.


#101

H

Honest Abe

BubbaSam said:
Just be careful and don't buy anything for your mower from Stevens Lake Parts on Amazon. They show ACTUAL OEM parts but nothing but Chinese junk came in. My Ferris internal air cleaner was literally falling apart when it arrived to do the lack of quality.
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when shopping parts I always double check where it is being shipped from, since so many supposed dealers are 3rd party sellers who are getting their goods from China. That's just me though . . . . .


#102

Douglasdzaster

Douglasdzaster

BubbaSam said:
Just be careful and don't buy anything for your mower from Stevens Lake Parts on Amazon. They show ACTUAL OEM parts but nothing but Chinese junk came in. My Ferris internal air cleaner was literally falling apart when it arrived to do the lack of quality.
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There’s so much counterfeit stuff on Amazon. I won’t even order a spark plug from them. Some of the Champion boxes don’t have Champion plugs in them for example. Some of the carburetor kits gasket’s/ rubber o rings are made of the wrong stuff and won’t last.


#103

G

GrumpyCat

Douglasdzaster said:
There’s so much counterfeit stuff on Amazon. I won’t even order a spark plug from them. Some of the Champion boxes don’t have Champion plugs in them for example. Some of the carburetor kits gasket’s/ rubber o rings are made of the wrong stuff and won’t last.
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Usually "Sold by Amazon" is safe. "Fulfilled by Amazon" is not. Amazon is careful of their suppliers but if only "fulfilled" the item is procured by an "Amazon partner" and sent to Amazon warehouses.


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