Oil filter check for Kawa FR691V

[iclick]

I too was surprised to see this recommendation for the filter. I don't recall seeing that since the 60s with some cars of that era--6k oil, 12k filter IIRC. Those cars had canister filters that were much larger than current cartridge types, so maybe the effective media size was a factor. Filters just don't cost enough to justify skipping that step, and it doesn't take much time to add that step while you're probably doing other maintenance at the same time. I do an annual maintenance (oil/filter change, lube, blade sharpening, etc.) once per year (~20 hrs), formerly in spring. Will be doing it in late fall on this mower based on recommendations here.

 

[(Account Closed)]

Quote:

"Mowers don't need special mower oil any more than Harleys need special motorcycle oil. I went through that debate for 20 years on Harley forums. I used 20w50 synthetic oil in my two air-cooled Harleys, one logging 106k and the other 66k, and never had any engine problems at all. That oil was not motorcycle-specific."

Re the Harley and MC specific oil, automotive oil has additives that can cause a clutch to slip under high RPM's WHEN THE ENGINE SHARES IT'S OIL with the ENGINE. IE, Most Japanese bikes...

This is more common in a very high HP machine.

Your Harley clutch uses it's own, SEPARATE oil (fill and drain from the left side clutch cover), so the issue of CLUTCH slippage is non-existent. So regular oil is fine..


Re 20w50 oil, I use that in my GENERATORS as when their used, they could be running days on end, 24/7...
Ran it for 28 hours straight for Hurricane Irma...


Lastly, to throw one last bone into the mix, this is the oil filter I've run in my bike the last 10 years or so. Expensive initially but paid for itself already, many times over:

I wouldn't use anything but semi-synthetic oil in the engine (Motul, 10w40), as it'll red line at 14,000 RPM, 95 HP, so IMO, cutting back on the price of oil or filter is NOT an option I'd personally take..

http://kandpengineering.com/

 

[cpurvis]

I can't imagine not changing the oil filter when doing an oil change regardless of what the manual says. Besides, if you always change it you don't have to worry about whether you changed it the last time.

Keep in mind that if you don't change the filter you're retaining the dirty oil in the filter and mixing it in with your fresh oil. Who would want to do that? Recommend changing filter with every oil change.

Darryl, I'm going to rib you a little bit, so don't get mad.

Wasn't it you just a few posts up who said something about relying on engineers' recommendations? 100/200 is what the Kawasaki engineers recommend...:smile:

 

[Darryl G]

Darryl, I'm going to rib you a little bit, so don't get mad.

Wasn't it you just a few posts up who said something about relying on engineers' recommendations? 100/200 is what the Kawasaki engineers recommend...:smile:

Yup but this is a practical matter of not having to remember if it was done last time. :smile:

 

[bertsmobile1]

Quote:

"Mowers don't need special mower oil any more than Harleys need special motorcycle oil. I went through that debate for 20 years on Harley forums. I used 20w50 synthetic oil in my two air-cooled Harleys, one logging 106k and the other 66k, and never had any engine problems at all. That oil was not motorcycle-specific."

Re the Harley and MC specific oil, automotive oil has additives that can cause a clutch to slip under high RPM's WHEN THE ENGINE SHARES IT'S OIL with the ENGINE. IE, Most Japanese bikes...

This is more common in a very high HP machine.

Your Harley clutch uses it's own, SEPARATE oil (fill and drain from the left side clutch cover), so the issue of CLUTCH slippage is non-existent. So regular oil is fine..


Re 20w50 oil, I use that in my GENERATORS as when their used, they could be running days on end, 24/7...
Ran it for 28 hours straight for Hurricane Irma...


Lastly, to throw one last bone into the mix, this is the oil filter I've run in my the last 10 years or so. Expensive initially but paid for itself already, many times over:

I wouldn't use anything but semi-synthetic oil in the engine (Motul, 10w40), as it'll red line at 14,000 RPM, 95 HP, so IMO, cutting back on the price of oil or filter is NOT an option I'd personally take..

http://kandpengineering.com/

And you don't need to have a shower every day / week / month / year either .
You won't die from lack of washing, even more so if you swim ( but not in my pool ) or run around naked ( not in my eyesight ).
And this proves absolutely nothing as dose "I did xyzt miles on virgins donkeys urine in my oil tank without failure.

If you are specifically calling maker branded oil unnecessary well that is fine because HD, Yamaha, Briggs do not make oil & in most cases simply repackage the existing product they had designed the engines to use.
If it was specifically blended for them & them alone it would be hundreds of dollars a gallon, that is just a volume economy thing.

However if you are saying you can put any car oil into an air cooled engine & expect it to function as per manufacturers standard & wear at the same or lower rate then that can only happen if you are using an oil which is a long way over the makers specifications so you are wasting money and a finite resourse, oil or have had one toomany deep & meaning full conversations with the faries at the bottom of the garden.
Almost any oil can be used in almost any engine UNDER SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.
Back in the 70's we ran ATF in the tranny & diffs of the racing cars and we never had a DNF so under your logic that proves you can toss the gear & diff oils away & just run ATF in everything.
However after a season, about 200 hours, the diff & gears were a throw away item.

When it comes to oils, the ONE & ONLY thing that is valid is side by side evaluations in identical engines running under identical conditions which get stripped down & measured for wear & damage.
After that every thing else is as valid as all those TV testimonials of fat people who lost 1/2 their body mass by taking a pill before bed or magic ovens that make you loose weight , vacuum cleaners that cut your cleaning time in half etc etc etc.

I would doubt any persons ability to assess the performance of any oil in a modern motorcycle engine.
Back in the old days when you were talking about 20 to 50 Hp engines a rider could notice performance changes but now days where motorcycle engines have so much power it is next to impossible to put it all to tar without specialist high grip tyres that top riders use for a single season then on sell to wanna bes for the next season who flog them to the hopeless ( me ) 4 seasons on.

As for your super duper oil filter, you have pulled the engine down at every oil change & measured the engine wear then comparred it to the makers spec or it it working because the engine has not gone BANG .



A vertical shaft mower engine is not a motorcycle engine and definately not a water cooled motorcycle engine.
The major requirement , the ability to maintain continious oil film over all parts that move with respect to each other is the same for both engine.
However after that there are a pile of secondary requirement, like the ability to hold water, corrosion resisance etc etc that vary because they are engine or enviroment specific.
Your street bike does not run in any where as dusty condition as your mower does, unless you ride third in line on dirt roads, for a simple & obvious example.
At 14,000 rpm the ability of the oil to resist being flung off is a very high priority, in fact in the 50's it was a limiting factor.
However in a mower engine running at 4,000 rpm it is not so important.
In your mower, the resistance to being wiped off the surfaces is far more important as the cam shaft turns so slow the followers are quite capable of pushing all the oil out of the way.

I realise it is no use talking to you because your mind is totally closed but it is important that you do not confuse the uninformed with your misguided and totally wrong opinions.

 

[iclick]

Re the Harley and MC specific oil, automotive oil has additives that can cause a clutch to slip under high RPM's WHEN THE ENGINE SHARES IT'S OIL with the ENGINE. IE, Most Japanese bikes... This is more common in a very high HP machine.
Your Harley clutch uses it's own, SEPARATE oil (fill and drain from the left side clutch cover), so the issue of CLUTCH slippage is non-existent. So regular oil is fine..

You're right on target. I used RP 20w50 synthetic for the engine, a very slick oil, and Castrol GTX 20w50 fossil oil in the primary. Never had any clutch issues and would never suggest using synthetic oil in a Harley primary.

 

[iclick]

And you don't need to have a shower every day / week / month / year either .
You won't die from lack of washing....

This is true. I learned that in the jungles of Viet Nam where we would often stay for up to a month at a time without a shower. We didn't die but infection was a constant battle. One little scratch could easily turn into an infection.

If you are specifically calling maker branded oil unnecessary well that is fine because HD, Yamaha, Briggs do not make oil & in most cases simply repackage the existing product they had designed the engines to use. If it was specifically blended for them & them alone it would be hundreds of dollars a gallon, that is just a volume economy thing.

I didn't want to get into an argument earlier, but IMO you're right about this, too. There's nothing exceptional about Kawasaki mower oil or Harley motorcycle oil, except the price.

At 14,000 rpm....

I never got my Harley up quite that high. :smile:

 

[(Account Closed)]

And you don't need to have a shower every day / week / month / year either . WHAT??
You won't die from lack of washing, even more so if you swim ( but not in my pool ) or run around naked ( not in my eyesight ).
And this proves absolutely nothing as dose "I did xyzt miles on virgins donkeys urine in my oil tank without failure. WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT???

If you are specifically calling maker branded oil unnecessary well that is fine because HD, Yamaha, Briggs do not make oil & in most cases simply repackage the existing product they had designed the engines to use.
If it was specifically blended for them & them alone it would be hundreds of dollars a gallon, that is just a volume economy thing.

However if you are saying you can put any car oil into an air cooled engine I DIDN'T SAY THAT??? & expect it to function as per manufacturers standard & wear at the same or lower rate then that can only happen if you are using an oil which is a long way over the makers specifications so you are wasting money and a finite resourse, oil or have had one toomany deep & meaning full conversations with the faries at the bottom of the garden. BEEN DRINKING TONIGHT??
Almost any oil can be used in almost any engine UNDER SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.
Back in the 70's we ran ATF in the tranny & diffs of the racing cars and we never had a DNF GOOD FOR YOU, SO ATF REPLACES 85-90 WT DIFFS??? so under your logic that proves you can toss the gear & diff oils away & just run ATF in everything. DON'T PUT WORDS IN MY MOUTH, YOUR WRITING JUST IGNORANCE NOW..
However after a season, about 200 hours, the diff & gears were a throw away item. OF COURSE THE DIFF FAILED, THE DIFF WASN'T LUBRICATED WITH ATF... ATF IS NOT OIL..

When it comes to oils, the ONE & ONLY thing that is valid is side by side evaluations in identical engines running under identical conditions which get stripped down & measured for wear & damage.
After that every thing else is as valid as all those TV testimonials of fat people who lost 1/2 their body mass by taking a pill before bed or magic ovens that make you loose weight , vacuum cleaners that cut your cleaning time in half etc etc etc. WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT??

I would doubt any persons ability to assess the performance of any oil in a modern motorcycle engine.
Back in the old days when you were talking about 20 to 50 Hp engines a rider could notice performance changes but now days where motorcycle engines have so much power it is next to impossible to put it all to tar without specialist high grip tyres that top riders use for a single season then on sell to wanna bes for the next season who flog them to the hopeless ( me ) 4 seasons on. SO PUT THE CHEAPEST CRAP IN YOUR ENGINE YOU CAN BUY OR BETTER YET, USED OIL. THEN WRITE ABOUT THE FAILURES(LIKE THE RACE CARS)

As for your super duper oil filter, you have pulled the engine down at every oil change & measured the engine wear then comparred it to the makers spec or it it working because the engine has not gone BANG . DID YOU BOTHER READING THE SPEC'S ON THE FILTERS I POSTED, PROBABLY NOT. MORE OIL FLOW, BETTER FILTRATION, OIL COOLING (VS NONE WITH A STANDARD FILTER), NAW, WE DON'T WANT THAT.




A vertical shaft mower engine is not a motorcycle engine and definately (it's spelled definitly) not a water cooled motorcycle engine. OH REALLY, DIDN'T REALIZE THAT..
The major requirement , the ability to maintain continious (it's spelled continuous) oil film over all parts that move with respect to each other is the same for both engine.
However after that there are a pile of secondary requirement, like the ability to hold water, corrosion resisance (it's spelled resistance) etc etc that vary because they are engine or enviroment (it's spelled environment) specific.
Your street bike does not run in any where as dusty condition as your mower does, unless you ride third in line on dirt roads, for a simple & obvious example. NO IT DOES NOT
At 14,000 rpm the ability of the oil to resist being flung off is a very high priority, in fact in the 50's it was a limiting factor.
However in a mower engine running at 4,000 rpm it is not so important. YOU DO REALIZE THERE IS A GEAR BOX ON THE BIKE AND THE OIL SHEAR IS A MAJOR ISSUE UNLIKE NO GEARS(EXCEPT A CAM SHAFT AND THAT'S LIMITED TO 3,600 RPMS) RIGHT?
In your mower, the resistance to being wiped off the surfaces is far more important as the cam shaft turns so slow the followers are quite capable of pushing all the oil out of the way.

I realise (it's spelled realize) it is no use talking to you because your mind is totally closed [/B]but it is important that you do not confuse the uninformed with your misguided and totally wrong opinions. HOW CAN AN OPINION BE WRONG, IT'S YOUR OPINION-NO ONE ELSES, SHEESH...

I find it amazing how you can read my mind and come up with all kinds of garbage I didn't post... Simply amazing..

So in your world, dino oil works as well as semi synthetic or full synthetic oil? Because it says so on the bottle? Okay, that's your opinion (as incorrect as it is).

 

[(Account Closed)]

This is true. I learned that in the jungles of Viet Nam where we would often stay for up to a month at a time without a shower. We didn't die but infection was a constant battle. One little scratch could easily turn into an infection.



I didn't want to get into an argument earlier, but IMO you're right about this, too. There's nothing exceptional about Kawasaki mower oil or Harley motorcycle oil, except the price.



I never got my Harley up quite that high. :smile:

Berts apparently in his own world or he would have known about the HD clutch oil being separate, as long as the HD has heavy enough oil in the ENGINE, it's fine... He's simply posting to post and argue with the country (that's the USA) that doesn't follow the rest of the world..

 

[cpurvis]

Yup but this is a practical matter of not having to remember if it was done last time. :smile:

I fixed that by writing the date and hours on the filter itself...my Kubota's filter will be two years old in March but the oil is only one year old with about 50 hours. The filter will have a hundred hours, more or less, when it gets changed this spring, which is half of Kubota's recommendation.