Oil Drain Repair

[Berniebac]

Briggs 287707 0224-01 97011720 Its an oldie but a goodie!

I had my tractor stored in my shed with the sides and hood off of it while I did some work on the engine. Something fell out of the rafters and landed on the 6" nipple that was used to drain the oil and broke the housing around the oil drain plug. When this happened I removed the nipple and replaced it with a drain plug but it never sealed the drain completely and last year it started leaking a lot of oil.

While undertaking other repairs this winter I intended to repair this area to prevent further oil leakage. So far I have tried to put the small broken piece back in place and hold it there with JB Weld High Temp Epoxy. However, when I put the tapered plug back in it just break the JB Weld off and I am back to the beginning. I don't know what else to do.

The piece that broke off only has a couple threads on it and it looks like the inside of the drain has a lot of threads for the plug to catch on beyond the broken area but being a tapered thread it does not want to drive into the drain all the way.

Any suggestions? Is there a way I could plug it completely and pump the oil out every time I change the oil.

Hoping I can load some pics of this one but I am struggling with uploading pics.

 

[mechanic mark]

Try Red Loctite.

red loctite - Google Search

 

[Berniebac]

Try Red Loctite.

red loctite - Google Search

Red Loctite to glue the piece back on and thread in the plug? or Loctite the piece on and glue the plug in permanently?

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Screw a cork in there . Buy an extra for next time .

 

[bertsmobile1]

File the remaining threaded extension back as flat as possible
Get a male/female nipple ( I think puritan Americans call them joiners cause their tounges will fall out if they say nipple ) then either use the red loctite on the nipple or a good wack of thread seal tape ( string would be better )

Or

Use the red locktite on the plug and never remove it ( use a pump to change your oil )

or

Buy one of the oil drain extensions ( there are a lot of them ) and again fit it with red locktite and never remove it

No glue , putty or paste will repair that broken off part because the taper on the plug will break it off.
Because it gets too hot the aluminium solder will not work as it will get soft & fall off , even if you clean the surfaces enough for it to take
The final alternative is to get it welded & recut the oil hole.
However unless you have a mate who works for a bottle of burbon a new sump casting would be cheaper .

 

[Berniebac]

I used the red Permatex thread locker on the plug and put it in permanently. I'll have to get a pump for future oil changes.

 

[slomo]

I didn't see any prep work other than slathering on JB Weld. No wonder it failed on you. Cold temps was mentioned as well.

Take it to a welder and TIG it up right.

 

[StarTech]

File the remaining threaded extension back as flat as possible
Get a male/female nipple ( I think puritan Americans call them joiners cause their tounges will fall out if they say nipple ) then either use the red loctite on the nipple or a good wack of thread seal tape ( string would be better )

Or

Use the red locktite on the plug and never remove it ( use a pump to change your oil )

or

Buy one of the oil drain extensions ( there are a lot of them ) and again fit it with red locktite and never remove it

No glue , putty or paste will repair that broken off part because the taper on the plug will break it off.
Because it gets too hot the aluminium solder will not work as it will get soft & fall off , even if you clean the surfaces enough for it to take
The final alternative is to get it welded & recut the oil hole.
However unless you have a mate who works for a bottle of burbon a new sump casting would be cheaper .

They are call pipe nipples here too. Personally I stay away from Red Loctite myself but of course I like being able to remove things later. Plus I use the surface prep / accelerator spray here.

BTW I see at least four threads broken. Personally I would just replace the sump / closure plate. Now the last price update the 494238 was listed at $165 and this is a 1997 engine. The area is thread at 3/8 NPT so if welded it would need to be re-tapped.

Bert I think some guys are now panting at the idea of nipples. <lol>

 

[Berniebac]

They are call pipe nipples here too. Personally I stay away from Red Loctite myself but of course I like being able to remove things later. Plus I use the surface prep / accelerator spray here.

BTW I see at least four threads broken. Personally I would just replace the sump / closure plate. Now the last price update the 494238 was listed at $165 and this is a 1997 engine. The area is thread at 3/8 NPT so if welded it would need to be re-tapped.

Bert I think some guys are now panting at the idea of nipples. <lol>

The age is why I went with the thread locker. There is a local welder who is fantastic with aluminum but I don't see the value in putting much into a 25 year old Briggs. Same for a new sump. I can buy another used engine for that.

I did look at a 3/8 NPT threaded fitting for an air hose/compressor and putting a piece of 3/8 hose on it with a plug in the other end to create a drain hose but just as easy to use a pump. I just hope the thread locker holds. What a pain having an oil leak in this location. Oil goes every where.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Maybe try a bolt and thread it in? I don’t think I’d want to seal it permanently.