New B&S 24hp engine

ng75605

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+1 is my gut feeling too.

I think that may be the problem too. Talked to a sears guy today and he said it was the ethanol in the gas? Don't think so. A little weak reasoning when all my other gasoline engines run fine.
Thanks for your thoughts.
 

motoman

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All my stuff runs on 10% ethanol. That is not your problem.
 

ng75605

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All my stuff runs on 10% ethanol. That is not your problem.

I agree. He said that the ethanol was causing the small engines a lot of trouble and people were having to overhaul their carburetors after only a short time of use. Ethanol has been with us for quite awhile and it is ridiculous to blame it on that. I think the choke is not adjusted properly and will tackle it from that angle. Thanks.
 

Rivets

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From experience I have to say that ethanol is causing problem with today's carbs. The number of carbs that I haven service in the last 2 years has jumped by over 200%. It has gotten to the point that we purchased an ultrasonic cleaner and every problem carb gets a bath. It is so bad that we have switched the gas we use in our shop to high octane nonethdanol gas. We also place a stick on all our equipment recommending this. Since doing this the number of comebacks or reoccurring problems has dropped. Maybe it is the gas we are getting in this area, but ethanol treated fuel in this area IS A PROBLEM. Do I think it is a problem with this engine, NO. I feel that it is a miss adjusted choke as I said earlier.
 

motoman

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Well I believe the problem with ethanol is a moisture keeper and corrosion. As stated I have not had a problem here in (only) my two machines-stop laughing.

As noted on another thread above I browsed garden forum and saw pages of testimonials on solutions to hard starts--adjusting the valves. After owning a Craftsman/BS Intek I do believe yours could have come new with valves out of adjustment. Last resort perhaps? :confused:
 

ng75605

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From experience I have to say that ethanol is causing problem with today's carbs. The number of carbs that I haven service in the last 2 years has jumped by over 200%. It has gotten to the point that we purchased an ultrasonic cleaner and every problem carb gets a bath. It is so bad that we have switched the gas we use in our shop to high octane nonethdanol gas. We also place a stick on all our equipment recommending this. Since doing this the number of comebacks or reoccurring problems has dropped. Maybe it is the gas we are getting in this area, but ethanol treated fuel in this area IS A PROBLEM. Do I think it is a problem with this engine, NO. I feel that it is a miss adjusted choke as I said earlier.

I didn't know you could buy gas without ethanol. I don't believe that it is available in my town but wished it were. Thanks Rivets.
 

SeniorCitizen

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I have a feeling the EPA has a hand in the hard starting problem because of shooting for a lean mixture. I have a V-twin Briggs that's been that way since new.

As mentioned, be sure the choke butter fly valves are closing all the way. You can feel resistance on the choke lever when they fully close. Also they can be seen using a mechanics mirror if you are a skilled mechanic. :biggrin:

I have helped mine by closing the spark plug gap to 0.020". Also if it has been idol for an extended period I remove the 4 wing nuts that allow access to the carburetor throat and put about a teaspoon of gas ( measured, don't just dump some ) directly in there for easier starting. The spark plugs seem to be easily fouled.

After all of this, if it sets for even 30 minutes after use it has to be choked to start again. The puzzling part of all this nonsense is that it's a GAS HOG.
 

motoman

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Please give us speicifics of the damage ethanol causes in the float bowls. Are you saying ultrasonic agitation removes corrosion? Does ethanol attack brass? aluminum? Let's demystify this problem please.

Also I have not had a problem spinning the engine to start with a 270 everstart, even at 40F with 10-30 chevron. (Intek 24)

Finally it seems the drill on finding TDC for valve adjustment is a little loose..."feel piston thru plug hole coming up on compression"... "about 1/4" past tdc for adjustment"... Not to criticize, but I carefully marked the flywheel at TDC center point with a punch prick and red dye at leading edge of coil body and always repeat this during valve adjust. Yes, you must remove the plastic cowl. I know there is a consant "base circle" on a cam which gives the same lash. Anyway , after reading about the starting problems on the BS I feel pretty good about my beast's starting willingness (at least).
 
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