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New B&S 24hp engine

#1

N

ng75605

Have a new B&S engine (24hp OHV Platinum) on a Craftsman riding tractor that takes forever to start. Is this something inherent with B&S engines? Have a 11 year old Kohler 25hp engine on another mower that starts first time everytime. What's up with this B&S engine? Thanks


#2

R

Rivets

Check to make sure that the choke is fully closing on start-up. May. Need to be adjusted.


#3

M

motoman

My Intek 24 requires a few turn overs with full choke and full throttle lever after sitting for weeks in the garage. Once hot it fires immediately. You can get the "sure fire" type plugs (looks like tungsten center electrode) for most small engines. I found them at walmart. I am still using regular Champions. I also suggest keeping the tractor from moisture soaking as in leaving it outside uncovered. The mag puts out a very weak voltage (compared to car) which is barely visible on a timing light. There is plug booty silicone grease which I use to improve the seal of the rubber on the porcelin plug body.


#4

reynoldston

reynoldston

Did you replace the fuel pump?


#5

N

ng75605

Rivets said:
Check to make sure that the choke is fully closing on start-up. May. Need to be adjusted.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I am going to try to adjust the cable linkage to make sure it is operating properly.
Appreciate the info Rivets.


#6

N

ng75605

reynoldston said:
Did you replace the fuel pump?
Click to expand...

No. It is brand new so as a last resort I will get Sears repair involved. I just really was wondering if the B&S engines were known to be hard-starters. Have had all kind of mowers but this is the first B&S engine I've had. On my other mower, I was cautioned to go with the Kohler engine over the B&S engine (at an additional cost). I didn't ever regret it. This mower was on a very special sale and I couldn't pass it up and it came with this engine. Thanks for your input.


#7

N

ng75605

motoman said:
My Intek 24 requires a few turn overs with full choke and full throttle lever after sitting for weeks in the garage. Once hot it fires immediately. You can get the "sure fire" type plugs (looks like tungsten center electrode) for most small engines. I found them at walmart. I am still using regular Champions. I also suggest keeping the tractor from moisture soaking as in leaving it outside uncovered. The mag puts out a very weak voltage (compared to car) which is barely visible on a timing light. There is plug booty silicone grease which I use to improve the seal of the rubber on the porcelin plug body.
Click to expand...

I think I will try these plugs if you think they are worth it. I have to keep a battery tender on this new mower just to make sure I have enough cranking power to get it started. Thanks for your info.


#8

pugaltitude

pugaltitude

What is model, type & code?
Is it single cyl or v twin. Over here we get ayp tractors with badged 24hp single cylinder.


#9

N

ng75605

pugaltitude said:
What is model, type & code?
Is it single cyl or v twin. Over here we get ayp tractors with badged 24hp single cylinder.
Click to expand...

It is a 24hp B&S Platinum engine V-twin OHV. Brand new. I have 4.5 hours on it. Bought it last month. Thanks for any info in advance.


#10

P

possum

Other than making sure the gas is fresh, the air filter is not clogged with dirt, and the oil not to thick for your current temps the problem belongs to the folks who provide the warranty. I do not like to play around with engines under warranty very much.


#11

C

chance123

Rivets said:
Check to make sure that the choke is fully closing on start-up. May. Need to be adjusted.
Click to expand...

+1 is my gut feeling too.


#12

N

ng75605

chance123 said:
+1 is my gut feeling too.
Click to expand...

I think that may be the problem too. Talked to a sears guy today and he said it was the ethanol in the gas? Don't think so. A little weak reasoning when all my other gasoline engines run fine.
Thanks for your thoughts.


#13

M

motoman

All my stuff runs on 10% ethanol. That is not your problem.


#14

N

ng75605

motoman said:
All my stuff runs on 10% ethanol. That is not your problem.
Click to expand...

I agree. He said that the ethanol was causing the small engines a lot of trouble and people were having to overhaul their carburetors after only a short time of use. Ethanol has been with us for quite awhile and it is ridiculous to blame it on that. I think the choke is not adjusted properly and will tackle it from that angle. Thanks.


#15

R

Rivets

From experience I have to say that ethanol is causing problem with today's carbs. The number of carbs that I haven service in the last 2 years has jumped by over 200%. It has gotten to the point that we purchased an ultrasonic cleaner and every problem carb gets a bath. It is so bad that we have switched the gas we use in our shop to high octane nonethdanol gas. We also place a stick on all our equipment recommending this. Since doing this the number of comebacks or reoccurring problems has dropped. Maybe it is the gas we are getting in this area, but ethanol treated fuel in this area IS A PROBLEM. Do I think it is a problem with this engine, NO. I feel that it is a miss adjusted choke as I said earlier.


#16

M

motoman

Well I believe the problem with ethanol is a moisture keeper and corrosion. As stated I have not had a problem here in (only) my two machines-stop laughing.

As noted on another thread above I browsed garden forum and saw pages of testimonials on solutions to hard starts--adjusting the valves. After owning a Craftsman/BS Intek I do believe yours could have come new with valves out of adjustment. Last resort perhaps? :confused:


#17

N

ng75605

Rivets said:
From experience I have to say that ethanol is causing problem with today's carbs. The number of carbs that I haven service in the last 2 years has jumped by over 200%. It has gotten to the point that we purchased an ultrasonic cleaner and every problem carb gets a bath. It is so bad that we have switched the gas we use in our shop to high octane nonethdanol gas. We also place a stick on all our equipment recommending this. Since doing this the number of comebacks or reoccurring problems has dropped. Maybe it is the gas we are getting in this area, but ethanol treated fuel in this area IS A PROBLEM. Do I think it is a problem with this engine, NO. I feel that it is a miss adjusted choke as I said earlier.
Click to expand...

I didn't know you could buy gas without ethanol. I don't believe that it is available in my town but wished it were. Thanks Rivets.


#18

R

Rivets

Go to this web site and click on you state or province. It will show you where non ethanol is being sold.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada


#19

S

SeniorCitizen

I have a feeling the EPA has a hand in the hard starting problem because of shooting for a lean mixture. I have a V-twin Briggs that's been that way since new.

As mentioned, be sure the choke butter fly valves are closing all the way. You can feel resistance on the choke lever when they fully close. Also they can be seen using a mechanics mirror if you are a skilled mechanic. :biggrin:

I have helped mine by closing the spark plug gap to 0.020". Also if it has been idol for an extended period I remove the 4 wing nuts that allow access to the carburetor throat and put about a teaspoon of gas ( measured, don't just dump some ) directly in there for easier starting. The spark plugs seem to be easily fouled.

After all of this, if it sets for even 30 minutes after use it has to be choked to start again. The puzzling part of all this nonsense is that it's a GAS HOG.


#20

M

motoman

Please give us speicifics of the damage ethanol causes in the float bowls. Are you saying ultrasonic agitation removes corrosion? Does ethanol attack brass? aluminum? Let's demystify this problem please.

Also I have not had a problem spinning the engine to start with a 270 everstart, even at 40F with 10-30 chevron. (Intek 24)

Finally it seems the drill on finding TDC for valve adjustment is a little loose..."feel piston thru plug hole coming up on compression"... "about 1/4" past tdc for adjustment"... Not to criticize, but I carefully marked the flywheel at TDC center point with a punch prick and red dye at leading edge of coil body and always repeat this during valve adjust. Yes, you must remove the plastic cowl. I know there is a consant "base circle" on a cam which gives the same lash. Anyway , after reading about the starting problems on the BS I feel pretty good about my beast's starting willingness (at least).


#21

R

Rivets

I'll make this as simple asi can. Ethanol is achohol---achohol attracts water---water creates corrosion---corrosion plugs the small passageways in the carb. Achohol causes the viton tips and/or seats to swell, making them not to seat properly. We have found that using the ultrasound cleaner cleans the passageways in the carbs and the brass jets. Setting valve clearance can be done a variety of ways. For the average mechanic, the 1/4" past TDC works well and it is easy to understand. Is it the most accurate way, no. Setting the valve clearance at XXX number of degrees past TDC (this varies with engine size and manufacturer) is the best way, but 99% of the mechanics or average Joe do not have the tools, time or knowledge to do this.
Finally, for the most part a battery with 225 CCA will turn over a small engine very well. The problem is that as this battery will drain down rapidly, unless the engine is kept in optimum operating condition. The average home owner does not do this. Increasing the CCA allows for a wider range of engine conditions, while also allowing the consumer to start their engine in a wider variety of conditions. On this sire we speak to the average person and our answers shouldn't be taken as the only possible and absolute solution. I have to work on someone else's unit and if it comes back, because I only solved the problem in the short run, I will be out of a job fast. Sometimes this means that it is not the cheapest way or easiest way to do things, but that is what we have to do. I want and need the customer to have confidence in me to come back in the future. Hope this answers you concerns.


#22

M

motoman

Good answers. thanks. I took time this morning online and will start a thread on ethanol.


#23

C

chance123

Rivets said:
I'll make this as simple asi can. Ethanol is achohol---achohol attracts water---water creates corrosion---corrosion plugs the small passageways in the carb. Achohol causes the viton tips and/or seats to swell, making them not to seat properly. We have found that using the ultrasound cleaner cleans the passageways in the carbs and the brass jets. Setting valve clearance can be done a variety of ways. For the average mechanic, the 1/4" past TDC works well and it is easy to understand. Is it the most accurate way, no. Setting the valve clearance at XXX number of degrees past TDC (this varies with engine size and manufacturer) is the best way, but 99% of the mechanics or average Joe do not have the tools, time or knowledge to do this.
Finally, for the most part a battery with 225 CCA will turn over a small engine very well. The problem is that as this battery will drain down rapidly, unless the engine is kept in optimum operating condition. The average home owner does not do this. Increasing the CCA allows for a wider range of engine conditions, while also allowing the consumer to start their engine in a wider variety of conditions. On this sire we speak to the average person and our answers shouldn't be taken as the only possible and absolute solution. I have to work on someone else's unit and if it comes back, because I only solved the problem in the short run, I will be out of a job fast. Sometimes this means that it is not the cheapest way or easiest way to do things, but that is what we have to do. I want and need the customer to have confidence in me to come back in the future. Hope this answers you concerns.
Click to expand...

+1 "absolutely" EXCELLENT!!!


#24

M

motoman

SandburRanch said:
I have a feeling the EPA has a hand in the hard starting problem because of shooting for a lean mixture. I have a V-twin Briggs that's been that way since new.

As mentioned, be sure the choke butter fly valves are closing all the way. You can feel resistance on the choke lever when they fully close. Also they can be seen using a mechanics mirror if you are a skilled mechanic. :biggrin:

I have helped mine by closing the spark plug gap to 0.020". Also if it has been idol for an extended period I remove the 4 wing nuts that allow access to the carburetor throat and put about a teaspoon of gas ( measured, don't just dump some ) directly in there for easier starting. The spark plugs seem to be easily fouled.

After all of this, if it sets for even 30 minutes after use it has to be choked to start again. The puzzling part of all this nonsense is that it's a GAS HOG.
Click to expand...

After my online adventure on "ethanol" your hard starting and poor mileage can indeed be due to EPA. See new thread


#25

E

Elias40

ng75605 said:
I didn't know you could buy gas without ethanol. I don't believe that it is available in my town but wished it were. Thanks Rivets.
Click to expand...
Here in Iowa, out in the boonies, regular unleaded is available, but seems unavailable in communities of 5000+ people.

It also takes more alcohol to produce the same amount of work as gasoline due to the ethanol not having the same energy potential.


#26

M

motoman

Elias40 said:
Here in Iowa, out in the boonies, regular unleaded is available, but seems unavailable in communities of 5000+ people.

It also takes more alcohol to produce the same amount of work as gasoline due to the ethanol not having the same energy potential.
Click to expand...

Confirmed mpg penalty by Energy Dept and forum members


#27

R

Rivets

This website will give you all stations in Iowa which carry ethanol free gas.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada


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