Need a REAL shop manual

cpurvis

Lawn Addict
Joined
Aug 25, 2015
Threads
21
Messages
2,256
Thanks, Star Tech. I forgot to mention that this is the inboard seal of the gearbox that drives the tines. I was thinking about drilling a couple of small holes in the side of the seal, scewing in a couple sheet metal screws and using a slide hammer on it.

I had all winter to fix this and didn't. Now, after getting the vaccine, I feel even less like working on it. Joint pain a-go-go.

edit: 'Inboard' is not the correct word. No thinking too clearly, either.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,702
The usual method is to carefully drill a pilot hole then screw in a self tapper.
Use a claw hammer , wrecking bar or pincers to lever the seal out
Generally 2 or 3 screw will do the job nicely
 

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
78
Messages
10,232
Thanks, Star Tech. I forgot to mention that this is the inboard seal of the gearbox that drives the tines. I was thinking about drilling a couple of small holes in the side of the seal, scewing in a couple sheet metal screws and using a slide hammer on it.

I had all winter to fix this and didn't. Now, after getting the vaccine, I feel even less like working on it. Joint pain a-go-go.

edit: 'Inboard' is not the correct word. No thinking too clearly, either.
That works as long don't damage either sealing surface but me it didn't work without damaging the sealing surfaces.

As the vaccine I cant even get an appointment. They had me to register and then said no place with 100 miles of me but of their website keep sending off to Fayetteville, NC too. Now that registration has been completed I have to wait for them to call me. I tried the local drugstore I have get on a waiting list and they wouldn't have the vaccine for two months to even start giving it.

All hype and no vaccine for two months. I reckon I just keep avoiding people for the next year and just close my business.
 

Hammermechanicman

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jan 10, 2020
Threads
52
Messages
3,512
The TC are rubber coated seals and I use an in-house made tool the remove them. Though I do have problems removing those 8x14x5 governor seals on Kawasaki engines. I have broken every store brought seal puller so far. At least they had a lifetime warranty so I got my money back.

Normally I don't have problems pulling TC seals; unless, they like last one that was cooked in where seal was bonded to the crankcase then I had problems getting it out but I still got it out without opening the Kawasaki engine.

Those metal housed seal can also be removed with care as I done several Troy-bilt Pony tiller axle and tine shaft seals without disassembling the gearboxes.
I got a troy bilt Big Red tiller in the shop right now for leaking wheel axle seals. The last shop they took it to replaced the seals but the axle shaft is pitted so it just chewed up the seals. I guess i need to call them and see if they want me to tear it down and replacee the shaft and seals. They have money but don't like to spend it. Great!. Couple months ago had a pony in with same prob with the tine shaft. That was a pretty easy replacement but i don't think this will be that easy. Wish they brought this to me in january.
 

oldyardman

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jun 9, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
2
That works as long don't damage either sealing surface but me it didn't work without damaging the sealing surfaces.

As the vaccine I cant even get an appointment. They had me to register and then said no place with 100 miles of me but of their website keep sending off to Fayetteville, NC too. Now that registration has been completed I have to wait for them to call me. I tried the local drugstore I have get on a waiting list and they wouldn't have the vaccine for two months to even start giving it.

All hype and no vaccine for two months. I reckon I just keep avoiding people for the next year and just close my business.
Star, I don't know your age, but as a 71yo retired Dentist, the vax is not and will not be in my body. Multiple hours of reading technical reports, (not the ones you hear on 99% of the media) have convinced me that injecting an untested (long term) substance into my body is about as dumb as me trying to repair/replace an axel seal. Esp. for a disease with a 99% recovery rate. Much like changing the oil and lubing, there are preventives that are available. See www.flcc.net for OTC prophylaxis protocol, The Ivermetin is an RX med. which I'm not using but have in reserve, the others I take on a daily basis. Most important is the D3. HDQ is also now available in most states, and if you can not find a local source try myfreedoctor.com for help. We are not talking Fentanyl here, and the OTCs work to strengthen you immune system overall, in other words preventive maintenance


l
 

DBD

Forum Newbie
Joined
Apr 2, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
4
Buy a 2020 model and see if it last 5 years .
I regularly service mowers that are 20+ years old and still cut near as good as new.
Most that are 10 yeas or less are uneconomic to repair, even if you can get the parts.
Just done a 2008 Dixon Ram 44
Blades NLA
Clutch NLA
Deck Belt NLA
Drive belt NLA
Spindle parts other than the bearings NLA
Deck idlers NLA .
Should last him another year or two.
Got another customer with a Dixon Ram 50
Same story
500 to 1000 hours and most hydros are worn out

Just spent near a year on & off getting a Swisher 50" into a reliable useable condition.
Just serviced a 2011 Yardmachine ( sold as Ryobi in the states )
$ 1600 in parts & $ 300 in labour & I doubt it will do another 2 seasons .
Bodged up so many MTD's less than 5 years old with split decks , deck hangers flogged out so oval the deck barely lifts.

I could go on all day
Thanks for your reply. I'm only concerned with a 2007 model and the parts I need are available for less than 30 dollars. I just figured with a manual to peruse for a few minutes in advance I might run across some aspect of the job that needs to be known without having to take the time to discover it by observation as one must do when working on something unfamiliar. Having said that, I'm no stranger to working on machines having been a mechanic for almost 50 years. But I don't work on lawn mowers. 'Guess I might now.
 

DBD

Forum Newbie
Joined
Apr 2, 2021
Threads
1
Messages
4
The axle seals is a pair of TC19-32-9 seals if my information is correct on this end. The OEM seals are NLA but the generic seals are easily obtainable. These are usually replaceable without disassembling the transaxle. Note the transaxle holds 10 ounces of 80w90 oil when completely empty.

The bushing will have some wear but if the seals are jump weeping then the replacement of the seals should correct the problem.
Thanks Star Tech. I found a company in Ohio called Stoller Lawn and Garden that has the correct seal but it's not OEM. 'Probably made by Mr. Wong, but as long as it works ... The part description says:

This is a non oem aftermarket oil seal to replace the following part numbers:

Dana/Foote/Spicer 7088
Craftsman / Husqvarna 407129
Craftsman / Husqvarna 532407129
Craftsman / Husqvarna 583300901

Yes, I can feel a little play on the axle end so I hope a new seal will fix it. I've not yet taken anything apart to look but judging by the tiny parts drawing in the manual that came with the mower, with my old eyes, it looks like there is a lip on the housing that would prevent extracting the seal by working it loose and sliding it outward.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,702
As the vaccine I cant even get an appointment. They had me to register and then said no place with 100 miles of me but of their website keep sending off to Fayetteville, NC too. Now that registration has been completed I have to wait for them to call me. I tried the local drugstore I have get on a waiting list and they wouldn't have the vaccine for two months to even start giving it.

All hype and no vaccine for two months. I reckon I just keep avoiding people for the next year and just close my business.

Star, I don't know your age, but as a 71yo retired Dentist, the vax is not and will not be in my body. Multiple hours of reading technical reports, (not the ones you hear on 99% of the media) have convinced me that injecting an untested (long term) substance into my body is about as dumb as me trying to repair/replace an axel seal. Esp. for a disease with a 99% recovery rate. Much like changing the oil and lubing, there are preventives that are available. See www.flcc.net for OTC prophylaxis protocol, The Ivermetin is an RX med. which I'm not using but have in reserve, the others I take on a daily basis. Most important is the D3. HDQ is also now available in most states, and if you can not find a local source try myfreedoctor.com for help. We are not talking Fentanyl here, and the OTCs work to strengthen you immune system overall, in other words preventive maintenance
Not trying to go off topic but what most fail to appreciate is the current vaccines do not prevent you from contracting Covid-19 nor transmitting it.
They mostly damp down the bodies immune response so you don't end up killing yourself.
So Covid -19 will end up like the flue , another viral disease that with some co-operation & common sense we could eliminate from the planet entirely by doig nothing more than isolating and doing self tests till we come up clean for 3 weeks.
Thus from now on we will have to get annual Covid shots like we get annual Flue shots which is a big money spinner for the companies that make the vaccines.
Remember it is a virus, not a bacteria that produces seeds that are viable for decades , as so it can only reproduce in a host and can only exist for a short time outside of a host , currently thought to be 2 to 3 weeks . no hosts = no viral packets = no more Covid - 19
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
189
What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.

Thanks.
most tiller seals in the dirt running area are double sealed. one in with seal lip in to hold oil in, one outside to keep dirt out, usually a different seal to resist erosone. Thus replacement by picking the old out is more difficult.
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
189
I am looking for a real shop manual, not a so called repair parts manual or operator manual that comes with a new mower, for a 917.287251 Craftsman 24 HP, 42", 6 speed transaxle lawn tractor made in 2007. If you have any age on you at all, then you know what I mean by the words "shop manual." That is a book or booklet that shows the proper procedure to take things apart and put them back together usually including pictures or diagrams. I am interested in knowing how to replace the rear axle seals in the transaxle, a DANA Transaxle Model No. D6800. I purchased an online PDF deal that was labelled as a true shop manual and it said in the description:

"This high quality Service Repair Workshop Manual covers all repair procedures A-Z. Every repair and service procedure is covered."

But it turned out to be pure dishonesty as it was merely a copy of the operator's manual and parts list. I'm lucky I got my money refunded.

Thanks for any reply to help me find what I am looking for if they even exist. Surely Craftsman must have written or provided some info for their authorized mechanics to work on and repair their lawn tractors.
Dana is now spicer. Thus a manual will be found. I am away from the shop resources but do feel a maula is available. http://vrr.dyndns.biz.
 
Top