What length of time do you consider to be a short life throwaway? My mower is going on 14 years old and it runs as good, has as much power and operates as well in all respects as it did the first day I bought it. I've used synthetic oil in it since it was new and change it and filter yearly and also keep it greased. Never a problem other than worn belts and blades, except for one of the axle seals now starting to seep a little. ThanksAs I have posted hundreds of times , a proper shop manual can easily run to $ 30,000 + by the time it is press ready.
Thus only a few companies who make high end commercial mowers like Walker or large volume retail customers that make quality mowers expected to run for a very long time like Toro or JD will produce a proper manual.
Bottom end makers like Husqvarna & MTD who have cut the manufacturing costs to the bare bone will not do it because they are already working on a razor thin margin and the mowers they make are designed to be short life throw aways .
That mower was made by Husqvarna and the design is almost the same as the 100 series John Deeres so for a lot of the repairs you can use the JD 100 series technical manual.
The demise of Danna predates my time as a technician, but others might know which JD or Toro used a similar Danna tranny
I checked my library and I have nothing on Danna's either
What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.The axle seals is a pair of TC19-32-9 seals if my information is correct on this end. The OEM seals are NLA but the generic seals are easily obtainable. These are usually replaceable without disassembling the transaxle. Note the transaxle holds 10 ounces of 80w90 oil when completely empty.
The bushing will have some wear but if the seals are jump weeping then the replacement of the seals should correct the problem.
The TC are rubber coated seals and I use an in-house made tool the remove them. Though I do have problems removing those 8x14x5 governor seals on Kawasaki engines. I have broken every store brought seal puller so far. At least they had a lifetime warranty so I got my money back.What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.
Thanks.
That works as long don't damage either sealing surface but me it didn't work without damaging the sealing surfaces.Thanks, Star Tech. I forgot to mention that this is the inboard seal of the gearbox that drives the tines. I was thinking about drilling a couple of small holes in the side of the seal, scewing in a couple sheet metal screws and using a slide hammer on it.
I had all winter to fix this and didn't. Now, after getting the vaccine, I feel even less like working on it. Joint pain a-go-go.
edit: 'Inboard' is not the correct word. No thinking too clearly, either.
I got a troy bilt Big Red tiller in the shop right now for leaking wheel axle seals. The last shop they took it to replaced the seals but the axle shaft is pitted so it just chewed up the seals. I guess i need to call them and see if they want me to tear it down and replacee the shaft and seals. They have money but don't like to spend it. Great!. Couple months ago had a pony in with same prob with the tine shaft. That was a pretty easy replacement but i don't think this will be that easy. Wish they brought this to me in january.The TC are rubber coated seals and I use an in-house made tool the remove them. Though I do have problems removing those 8x14x5 governor seals on Kawasaki engines. I have broken every store brought seal puller so far. At least they had a lifetime warranty so I got my money back.
Normally I don't have problems pulling TC seals; unless, they like last one that was cooked in where seal was bonded to the crankcase then I had problems getting it out but I still got it out without opening the Kawasaki engine.
Those metal housed seal can also be removed with care as I done several Troy-bilt Pony tiller axle and tine shaft seals without disassembling the gearboxes.
Star, I don't know your age, but as a 71yo retired Dentist, the vax is not and will not be in my body. Multiple hours of reading technical reports, (not the ones you hear on 99% of the media) have convinced me that injecting an untested (long term) substance into my body is about as dumb as me trying to repair/replace an axel seal. Esp. for a disease with a 99% recovery rate. Much like changing the oil and lubing, there are preventives that are available. See www.flcc.net for OTC prophylaxis protocol, The Ivermetin is an RX med. which I'm not using but have in reserve, the others I take on a daily basis. Most important is the D3. HDQ is also now available in most states, and if you can not find a local source try myfreedoctor.com for help. We are not talking Fentanyl here, and the OTCs work to strengthen you immune system overall, in other words preventive maintenanceThat works as long don't damage either sealing surface but me it didn't work without damaging the sealing surfaces.
As the vaccine I cant even get an appointment. They had me to register and then said no place with 100 miles of me but of their website keep sending off to Fayetteville, NC too. Now that registration has been completed I have to wait for them to call me. I tried the local drugstore I have get on a waiting list and they wouldn't have the vaccine for two months to even start giving it.
All hype and no vaccine for two months. I reckon I just keep avoiding people for the next year and just close my business.
Thanks for your reply. I'm only concerned with a 2007 model and the parts I need are available for less than 30 dollars. I just figured with a manual to peruse for a few minutes in advance I might run across some aspect of the job that needs to be known without having to take the time to discover it by observation as one must do when working on something unfamiliar. Having said that, I'm no stranger to working on machines having been a mechanic for almost 50 years. But I don't work on lawn mowers. 'Guess I might now.Buy a 2020 model and see if it last 5 years .
I regularly service mowers that are 20+ years old and still cut near as good as new.
Most that are 10 yeas or less are uneconomic to repair, even if you can get the parts.
Just done a 2008 Dixon Ram 44
Blades NLA
Clutch NLA
Deck Belt NLA
Drive belt NLA
Spindle parts other than the bearings NLA
Deck idlers NLA .
Should last him another year or two.
Got another customer with a Dixon Ram 50
Same story
500 to 1000 hours and most hydros are worn out
Just spent near a year on & off getting a Swisher 50" into a reliable useable condition.
Just serviced a 2011 Yardmachine ( sold as Ryobi in the states )
$ 1600 in parts & $ 300 in labour & I doubt it will do another 2 seasons .
Bodged up so many MTD's less than 5 years old with split decks , deck hangers flogged out so oval the deck barely lifts.
I could go on all day
Thanks Star Tech. I found a company in Ohio called Stoller Lawn and Garden that has the correct seal but it's not OEM. 'Probably made by Mr. Wong, but as long as it works ... The part description says:The axle seals is a pair of TC19-32-9 seals if my information is correct on this end. The OEM seals are NLA but the generic seals are easily obtainable. These are usually replaceable without disassembling the transaxle. Note the transaxle holds 10 ounces of 80w90 oil when completely empty.
The bushing will have some wear but if the seals are jump weeping then the replacement of the seals should correct the problem.
Not trying to go off topic but what most fail to appreciate is the current vaccines do not prevent you from contracting Covid-19 nor transmitting it.As the vaccine I cant even get an appointment. They had me to register and then said no place with 100 miles of me but of their website keep sending off to Fayetteville, NC too. Now that registration has been completed I have to wait for them to call me. I tried the local drugstore I have get on a waiting list and they wouldn't have the vaccine for two months to even start giving it.
All hype and no vaccine for two months. I reckon I just keep avoiding people for the next year and just close my business.
Star, I don't know your age, but as a 71yo retired Dentist, the vax is not and will not be in my body. Multiple hours of reading technical reports, (not the ones you hear on 99% of the media) have convinced me that injecting an untested (long term) substance into my body is about as dumb as me trying to repair/replace an axel seal. Esp. for a disease with a 99% recovery rate. Much like changing the oil and lubing, there are preventives that are available. See www.flcc.net for OTC prophylaxis protocol, The Ivermetin is an RX med. which I'm not using but have in reserve, the others I take on a daily basis. Most important is the D3. HDQ is also now available in most states, and if you can not find a local source try myfreedoctor.com for help. We are not talking Fentanyl here, and the OTCs work to strengthen you immune system overall, in other words preventive maintenance
most tiller seals in the dirt running area are double sealed. one in with seal lip in to hold oil in, one outside to keep dirt out, usually a different seal to resist erosone. Thus replacement by picking the old out is more difficult.What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.
Thanks.
Dana is now spicer. Thus a manual will be found. I am away from the shop resources but do feel a maula is available. http://vrr.dyndns.biz.I am looking for a real shop manual, not a so called repair parts manual or operator manual that comes with a new mower, for a 917.287251 Craftsman 24 HP, 42", 6 speed transaxle lawn tractor made in 2007. If you have any age on you at all, then you know what I mean by the words "shop manual." That is a book or booklet that shows the proper procedure to take things apart and put them back together usually including pictures or diagrams. I am interested in knowing how to replace the rear axle seals in the transaxle, a DANA Transaxle Model No. D6800. I purchased an online PDF deal that was labelled as a true shop manual and it said in the description:
"This high quality Service Repair Workshop Manual covers all repair procedures A-Z. Every repair and service procedure is covered."
But it turned out to be pure dishonesty as it was merely a copy of the operator's manual and parts list. I'm lucky I got my money refunded.
Thanks for any reply to help me find what I am looking for if they even exist. Surely Craftsman must have written or provided some info for their authorized mechanics to work on and repair their lawn tractors.