Need a REAL shop manual

DBD

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I am looking for a real shop manual, not a so called repair parts manual or operator manual that comes with a new mower, for a 917.287251 Craftsman 24 HP, 42", 6 speed transaxle lawn tractor made in 2007. If you have any age on you at all, then you know what I mean by the words "shop manual." That is a book or booklet that shows the proper procedure to take things apart and put them back together usually including pictures or diagrams. I am interested in knowing how to replace the rear axle seals in the transaxle, a DANA Transaxle Model No. D6800. I purchased an online PDF deal that was labelled as a true shop manual and it said in the description:

"This high quality Service Repair Workshop Manual covers all repair procedures A-Z. Every repair and service procedure is covered."

But it turned out to be pure dishonesty as it was merely a copy of the operator's manual and parts list. I'm lucky I got my money refunded.

Thanks for any reply to help me find what I am looking for if they even exist. Surely Craftsman must have written or provided some info for their authorized mechanics to work on and repair their lawn tractors.
 

Hammermechanicman

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I don't think i have ever seen a shop manual like you want for a craftsman mower. Mowers are either made by AYP or MTD and all i have ever seen is an owners manual.
 

Rivets

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Hammer is correct, there are no shop manuals for Craftsman tractors and in my years of servicing equipment I’ve only seen service manuals for the pre 2010 major manufacturer’s. Even today they are limited to the high end products, on computer disc and very expensive, even for the dealers. With MTD, AYP, POULON, HUSKY, ETC, you might see a service bulletin every other blue moon, but that’s as close as you get.
 

bertsmobile1

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As I have posted hundreds of times , a proper shop manual can easily run to $ 30,000 + by the time it is press ready.
Thus only a few companies who make high end commercial mowers like Walker or large volume retail customers that make quality mowers expected to run for a very long time like Toro or JD will produce a proper manual.
Bottom end makers like Husqvarna & MTD who have cut the manufacturing costs to the bare bone will not do it because they are already working on a razor thin margin and the mowers they make are designed to be short life throw aways .
That mower was made by Husqvarna and the design is almost the same as the 100 series John Deeres so for a lot of the repairs you can use the JD 100 series technical manual.
The demise of Danna predates my time as a technician, but others might know which JD or Toro used a similar Danna tranny
I checked my library and I have nothing on Danna's either
 

DBD

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As I have posted hundreds of times , a proper shop manual can easily run to $ 30,000 + by the time it is press ready.
Thus only a few companies who make high end commercial mowers like Walker or large volume retail customers that make quality mowers expected to run for a very long time like Toro or JD will produce a proper manual.
Bottom end makers like Husqvarna & MTD who have cut the manufacturing costs to the bare bone will not do it because they are already working on a razor thin margin and the mowers they make are designed to be short life throw aways .
That mower was made by Husqvarna and the design is almost the same as the 100 series John Deeres so for a lot of the repairs you can use the JD 100 series technical manual.
The demise of Danna predates my time as a technician, but others might know which JD or Toro used a similar Danna tranny
I checked my library and I have nothing on Danna's either
What length of time do you consider to be a short life throwaway? My mower is going on 14 years old and it runs as good, has as much power and operates as well in all respects as it did the first day I bought it. I've used synthetic oil in it since it was new and change it and filter yearly and also keep it greased. Never a problem other than worn belts and blades, except for one of the axle seals now starting to seep a little. Thanks
 

bertsmobile1

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Buy a 2020 model and see if it last 5 years .
I regularly service mowers that are 20+ years old and still cut near as good as new.
Most that are 10 yeas or less are uneconomic to repair, even if you can get the parts.
Just done a 2008 Dixon Ram 44
Blades NLA
Clutch NLA
Deck Belt NLA
Drive belt NLA
Spindle parts other than the bearings NLA
Deck idlers NLA .
Should last him another year or two.
Got another customer with a Dixon Ram 50
Same story
500 to 1000 hours and most hydros are worn out

Just spent near a year on & off getting a Swisher 50" into a reliable useable condition.
Just serviced a 2011 Yardmachine ( sold as Ryobi in the states )
$ 1600 in parts & $ 300 in labour & I doubt it will do another 2 seasons .
Bodged up so many MTD's less than 5 years old with split decks , deck hangers flogged out so oval the deck barely lifts.

I could go on all day
 

StarTech

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The axle seals is a pair of TC19-32-9 seals if my information is correct on this end. The OEM seals are NLA but the generic seals are easily obtainable. These are usually replaceable without disassembling the transaxle. Note the transaxle holds 10 ounces of 80w90 oil when completely empty.

The bushing will have some wear but if the seals are jump weeping then the replacement of the seals should correct the problem.
 

cpurvis

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The axle seals is a pair of TC19-32-9 seals if my information is correct on this end. The OEM seals are NLA but the generic seals are easily obtainable. These are usually replaceable without disassembling the transaxle. Note the transaxle holds 10 ounces of 80w90 oil when completely empty.

The bushing will have some wear but if the seals are jump weeping then the replacement of the seals should correct the problem.
What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.

Thanks.
 

StarTech

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What's your technique for removing seals without being able to drive them out from the inside? I've got an old Hahn-Eclipse roto tiller that needs a seal on the side of the case that, if the seal can be removed from the outside, would save a lot of work.

Thanks.
The TC are rubber coated seals and I use an in-house made tool the remove them. Though I do have problems removing those 8x14x5 governor seals on Kawasaki engines. I have broken every store brought seal puller so far. At least they had a lifetime warranty so I got my money back.

Normally I don't have problems pulling TC seals; unless, they like last one that was cooked in where seal was bonded to the crankcase then I had problems getting it out but I still got it out without opening the Kawasaki engine.

Those metal housed seal can also be removed with care as I done several Troy-bilt Pony tiller axle and tine shaft seals without disassembling the gearboxes.
 
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