My Snapper lives!

[combatcarl]

So. Wow. Apparently, going from a straight pipe to a muffler requires a complete carb adjustment. Spent 10 minutes adjusting, it's getting close, not quite perfect yet. That thing is a beast, I've never seen a little 4 horse Briggs charge through thick, damp grass, and bag it, without bogging down. At top speed. Definitely a keeper. It may get a full rebuild this winter, and get a whole new life. Thinking of mowing a couple free lawns here and there, for fun, and watch it chop grass!

 

[snapsstorer]

i had one of those mower's. lived on a farm, with 2-1/2 acres to mow. it cut through the heavy stuff, like it was cutting grass only 2 inches high. had some heavy stuff(3 ft high) to cut, it went through that like butter after raising the the deck all the way up. the neighbor seen me cutting it with the push mower, and remarked "I wished my big back deck on my farm tractor would work that good!"

 

[Snapperfreak]

Yep. Can't beat the old Snappers.

 

[combatcarl]

Yeah did it again today. Thick wet stuff just disappears into the bag. Been raining too much to mow all week, turned into a jungle!

Sent from my LG-P505 using LMF

 

[Snapperfreak]

I actually just finished mowing with mine today too. It's the only mower of mine that I kept the engine-kill handle on, all the others I took it off and bypassed the switch at the engine. I like using the 21401P for a change because its quieter than my Wisconsin-Robin mowers. I got it from the original owner FOR FREE! He said he bought it for $500 in 1986 and it was always garage kept. The paint is in almost brand new condition, except for the front apron where the SNAPPER letters are which is slightly bent down but other than that its perfect. He even replaced the belts right before he parked it. I'm sure ill get more snappers at some point but these three ill always keep.

 

[combatcarl]

I just take a heavy zip tie, and size it so it holds the deadman handle, but can still slip it off. But its got a kill on the throttle, so I usually use that. Snappers kick butt. Just thought I'd say it.

Sent from my LG-P505 using LMF

 

[snapsstorer]

a friend of mine bought a snapper over to me that he wanted fixed. I told him that the parts might be speffy, but when i fix a snapper i fix it back to original condition. got done he was glad, only thing he hated was the fact i got the kill haandle working.:laughing::biggrin:

 

[combatcarl]

So it saddens me to say this, but the old 4 horse has been running great, but getting noisy. Smoking a little on hot restarts, too. So while its still a happy engine, before suffering an ignoble fate, I pulled it off. Got a GCV190 on a junk craftsman deck, and decided to make the swap. The honda is a strong runner, starts easy, and is rated at 6.5 horse, and something like 8 ft-lb of torque. So I think it will make a good "light commercial" mower. Had enough random parts around that everything fits, only custom work is two new holes drilled in deck. It actually looks pretty good. I'll get some evidence/proof up tomorrow. Kinda sad, miss the period correct briggs, but I'll get used to it. Miss the variable throttle, too.

 

[combatcarl]

Well, I'll put up some sneaker pics tonight. Only issues I have are the deadman run/stop cable and the blade hub bolt being too short for the hub I have that fits. The deadman should be easy, I'll probably have to buy a cable for a honda powered snapper. Just need to hit the parts store for a 3/8-24 bolt of the right length. Here's a few shots for now. Kinda miss the white brick already.

 

[URRSwede]

I was trying to rehab my 26 year old Snapper SP for my son-in-law. I repowered it a number of years with a Briggs Quantum engine. I decided it was time for a new one and I bought a top of line Snapper Hi Vac with electric start. Thus the beginning of the rehab. Oil, Air filter, , Plug. Simple. Then the fun. Changing the belts. Getting the idler wheel off was a challenge. Could not budge the under deck nut even with impact wrench. No wrench commercially made is thin enough to grab the body beneath the drive disc. Decided to remove the engine to take the belt off. That after 3 hours of fiddling. I discovered a rust hole in the deck beneath the idler wheel. Perhaps the reason for the seizure. So I took off the top nut and got a punch and drove the carriage bolt down and thru the rust hole. Voila! Before I found the rust hole I was looking for a nut breaker. One tool I don't own. Oddly, the end of the bolt attaching the driven disk has a slot. Not sure why. Got the new idler on and the engine replaced.

Tomorrow I try to replace the poly Vee belt that powers the transmission.

Anyone know how to change the transmission grease?