my fix to overheating tractor

[Black Bart]

How is the temperature of the oil going to increase once it is inside the cooler?:confused2:

It Won't it should drop.

 

[motoman]

Motorman are you getting you oil temperature when it comes out of the engine or are you measuring it on the way into the engine after it has been through the cooler.
Their should be a big difference.
i drove a Sprint car and it had 2 gauges for oil temp it had oil IN and oil OUT
Oil out is the important temp but if the oil in is high the cooler is plugged and we would clean the dirt out of it.:thumbsup:

If you are seeing 300F on the oil in the oil out would be even higher.

Bart, The sensor is located inside the drain plug, see thumbnail pic. To me it is therefore somewhat influenced by short term soak of pan temp which may be ( it is said) 20 degrees hotter than the oil. By the way the pan sits on four small legs on the huge steel 10 ga frame. Once that gets hot it aint helping things. This thread is causing me to over heat . I wake up nights.....Motoman

 

[reddragon]

Bart, The sensor is located inside the drain plug, see thumbnail pic. To me it is therefore somewhat influenced by short term soak of pan temp which may be ( it is said) 20 degrees hotter than the oil. By the way the pan sits on four small legs on the huge steel 10 ga frame. Once that gets hot it aint helping things. This thread is causing me to over heat . I wake up nights.....Motoman

welcome to MOWERITIS! :laughing:

 

[motoman]

Parts Source Update: Low cost temp indicator?

I need the 12 step program to stop this...I tried to verify availability of the oil filter adaptor and the cooler from 2007. JCW does not show either one. Go to JEGS online and see B&M 70265 $60 cooler . Caution it is 1-1/2" wider and takes AN fittings , pretty, but the bottom hookup could be tight. Also see Trans Dapt 1313 adapter $37. No Beebe oil gauge at JCW, but plenty others on line and at auto stores. Be sure to get the 300F calibration. The 280F just won't do it.

Times are tough and some may be leery of gauges, whether drilling dash or wiring. So use crayons. To be exact "Tempil Sticks" or crayons which are wiped onto a metal surface and change appearance when specific temp is reached. Just install the Cooler put the Tempil Stick on your pocket protector.
Worried? Pull crayon PN 719-TS 0275 (or your choice) and wipe the filter or block. If shiny your motor temp may be headed toward 300F. Stop and cool. There's a 400F for the head .Theyre $9 ea + ship . Go to "bettymills.com" ( I have not tried this) Motoman

 

[motoman]

Now that you've gone through the effort to put a cooler on your machine, try an experiment for us, if you would;

1. Give us how hot your conventional oil was getting before the cooler mod.
2. Give us hot hot your oil is getting after the cooler mod.
3. Switch over to any of the premium synthetic oils that have been proffered here (Amsoil ASE, Shell Rotella T-6, etc.,) and tell us at what temperature your oil now runs at. I'll take a stab at between 20 and 30*F cooler for the synthetic.:smile:

Benski 1. No figures, but head started to come apart. (2) Done see above. (3) Rigorous scientific method says control the variables. Grass here is browning out , easy to cut and light. I could simulate load with ballast in the 3 basketd, but not the blade load of high wet grass cutting. I will consider this request next spring. Meanwhile would you consider baseline your temps with syn and switch to conventional oil and take the same readings for us? Motoman

 

[Black Bart]

Bart, The sensor is located inside the drain plug, see thumbnail pic. To me it is therefore somewhat influenced by short term soak of pan temp which may be ( it is said) 20 degrees hotter than the oil. By the way the pan sits on four small legs on the huge steel 10 ga frame. Once that gets hot it aint helping things. This thread is causing me to over heat . I wake up nights.....Motoman

That should give you a good idea of what the oil temp is as it drops out of the engine and that is the temp that you want to know.

I'm going to mow in another hour and I plan on using my infra heat gun to get some readings on mine.
I will post the results.

 

[motoman]

That should give you a good idea of what the oil temp is as it drops out of the engine and that is the temp that you want to know.

I'm going to mow in another hour and I plan on using my infra heat gun to get some readings on mine.
I will post the results.

Bart. Good show Motoman

 

[motoman]

File notes on pushed valve guide

Motoman believes this thread is approaching full circle with lots of good discussion . I believe someone has started a new thread on oil which is ever fascinating to gear heads. This has been an operetta to me but the thin lady must hum before it's over. This data is notes I took after the rt cylinder stopped after the cam lobe was ground round due to a pushed guide. I always felt heat played a role, but also a quality lapse in either guide bore or guide OD. So here it is . I ask again that cognizant engineering or engine building types chime in.
The pushed guide measured .4345" OD The head bore for the guide, measusred 9 times with a hole gauge and averaged was .432". For fun everything was cleaned, head at 300F and guide at 32F , and reassembled. Hydraulic assembly pressure seemed normal. Assembled and run a few hours.
Disassembleld, the same guide was again on the move upward. New head then assembled and no more problems. (this before the cooling fix), Were the press fit dimensions correct? I don't know.
What are the forces acting on a guide? I once assembled a head whose guides had metal o rings
in annular groove which inhibited such movement. Seems like pennies worth of prevention Motoman

 

[Chev]

Two thou interference fit is not much, but keep in mind that that the compression is transmitted through and a tighter fit could make the valve clearance to small causing undue friction there.

I think I would use one of the Lock-tights available to keep the guide in place. The do some good stuff over there. That seems like it would be a cheaper bit of prevention than the o-rings.

 

[reddragon]

Re: File notes on pushed valve guide

Motoman believes this thread is approaching full circle with lots of good discussion . I believe someone has started a new thread on oil which is ever fascinating to gear heads. This has been an operetta to me but the thin lady must hum before it's over. This data is notes I took after the rt cylinder stopped after the cam lobe was ground round due to a pushed guide. I always felt heat played a role, but also a quality lapse in either guide bore or guide OD. So here it is . I ask again that cognizant engineering or engine building types chime in.
The pushed guide measured .4345" OD The head bore for the guide, measusred 9 times with a hole gauge and averaged was .432". For fun everything was cleaned, head at 300F and guide at 32F , and reassembled. Hydraulic assembly pressure seemed normal. Assembled and run a few hours.
Disassembleld, the same guide was again on the move upward. New head then assembled and no more problems. (this before the cooling fix), Were the press fit dimensions correct? I don't know.
What are the forces acting on a guide? I once assembled a head whose guides had metal o rings
in annular groove which inhibited such movement. Seems like pennies worth of prevention Motoman

its great that you keep a record of the details.....its critical in refining an invention :thumbsup: