Murray 30" MER no spark

[L0n3s0m3_M0w3r]

Searching frantically I managed to find a 12V blue fluorescent tube I bought years ago to go inside a PC case. I connected it up as suggested and it lit up. It remained lit while one by one, I bypassed all three switches with a jumper, never going out until disconnected.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I gave instructions about what to do back in post # 36
This requires you to have a set of booster cables that most home owners have in the boot of their cars and a couple of pieces of wire
If you really want my assistance do what was asked & post results
If you can not be bothered to do what I have requested then I can not be bothered with your problems
Your choice

 

[L0n3s0m3_M0w3r]

I gave instructions about what to do back in post # 36
This requires you to have a set of booster cables that most home owners have in the boot of their cars and a couple of pieces of wire
If you really want my assistance do what was asked & post results
If you can not be bothered to do what I have requested then I can not be bothered with your problems
Your choice

Either I didn't make myself clear or I didn't understand your suggestion.

"You make some bypass jumper leads that have a male terminal at each end
Get a globe and hook some wires to it
Connect one end to a power source and the other to the magneto kill wire
The kill wire is normally open circuit then goes to ground to stop the engine
SO if the kill circuit has a short some where, the globe will light
Now one at a time bypass each switch to the running condition and watch the light"

With alligator clips I connected one side of the light to the + battery terminal of the mower and the other side to the kill wire. The light lit up. I independently bypassed each switch with a jumper and the light never went out.

What I did was follow your instructions as I understood them. From my point of view your latest post differs significantly from post #36 so it's possible I misunderstood. The key position was not specified so I did the test both ways. If what I have done is not what you meant please clarify.
There have been several suggestions prior to your contribution and I have tried every one.
I appreciate everyone's time and effort.
Thank you

 

[bertsmobile1]

The kill wire is either open ( not connected to anything ) to run , or ground to stop the engine
If the globe is illuminated when connected between the kill wire & the battery + anytime other than when the key is off then one of the safety switches or the wires between them is faulty.
Apart from the cranking circuit, all of the safety switchers are GROUND switches, they make a ground contact with the kill wire .
I hope this clarrifies things a bit for you.

The cranking circuit is the only powered safety circuit ( except if relays are being used ) .
The cranking circuit goes from the S terminal on the key switch through the PTO switch, through the parking brake switch , through the neutral switch ( if fitted ) then to the trigger terminal on the solenoid .