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MTD-B&S 6.75 HP help to stay running

#1

silver1

silver1

I have a MTD or Weedeater walk behind that will start when pumper/primed and I can keep it running by pumping the bulb
on the carb. It does have a bowl on the carb. but hard to get to. Does it have needle and seat? The fuel tank leaks at
the seem by oil fill. What is a good sealant?

120602 0131 E1

LB

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#2

reynoldston

reynoldston

The best sealant I have found for gas is called seals-all. It comes in a yellow tube and can be bought in most hardware stores.


#3

davbell22602

davbell22602

reynoldston said:
The best sealant I have found for gas is called seals-all. It comes in a yellow tube and can be bought in most hardware stores.
Click to expand...

Does that hold around heat and gas? How will it hold up?


#4

reynoldston

reynoldston

davbell22602 said:
Does that hold around heat and gas? How will it hold up?
Click to expand...

As far as heat go's I don't know. I have been using it for years on gas tank repairs on cars and trucks. One of the things I do find it works best on a clean surface. Its called Seal-All and if you would like to more just look it up on the Web. eclecticproducts.com


#5

Carscw

Carscw

I use KBS
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers-C29.aspx


#6

silver1

silver1

reynoldston said:
The best sealant I have found for gas is called seals-all. It comes in a yellow tube and can be bought in most hardware stores.
Click to expand...

$5.99 @ Autozone. Thanks


#7

silver1

silver1

Carscw said:
I use KBS
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers-C29.aspx
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply......That stuff is for big jobs!


#8

Fish

Fish

Just replace the tank with a good used one, if you got one off of e-bay it would cost just a little more than the sealant that you will buy. Just try removing the nut on the bottom of the carb, and cleaning all of the holes in it first. Don't fuss with the bowl much, with luck it will stay stuck on the carb while you do this. The little holes
in your nut/jet will likely be scummed over a lot with varnish goo, partly from the molten baggie juice from the gas cap area. The molten plastic will eventually destroy
your engine, so you may want to get that new/used tank soon...


#9

Fish

Fish

Briggs Gas Tank 699374 | eBay

Well around $20 or so, you could likely find one cheaper locally.


#10

R

Rivets

To solve your carb problem, you are going to have to remove the carb and give it a good cleaning. When you reassemble it make sure that you install a new float needle and seat. Briggs part number 398188. What has happen is the seat has expanded and when the needle shuts off the incoming fuel it does it to soon and the level of fuel in the float bowl is not high enough for proper operation.


#11

davbell22602

davbell22602

Get a carb overhaul kit and install it after cleaning carb. Dont need new float unless its has a hole in it. I recommend using a ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the carb.


#12

R

Rivets

Why waste money on an overhaul kit, when the only parts he will need is the needle and seat. If I've seen this problem description once this winter, I've seen it a hundred times.


#13

davbell22602

davbell22602

Rivets said:
Why waste money on an overhaul kit, when the only parts he will need is the needle and seat. If I've seen this problem description once this winter, I've seen it a hundred times.
Click to expand...

The overhaul kit has the gaskets with it also. All the shops around here only carry the overhaul kits.


#14

R

Rivets

Any good repair shop will have the part I referenced. Don't waste your money, you won't use the other parts.


#15

I

ILENGINE

You mostly need the needle valve and seat, but installing a complete carb kit may not be bad idea, just because you will have new gaskets. I have seen cases where the bowl gasket will swell, and is a pain to get back in place, as well as the paper gasket around the bowl nut will sometimes come apart when exposed to gas.

I have had good luck using a hot glue gun to seal plastic fuel tanks. Just make sure that you drain the tank, and let it air out good first. Use sandpaper to clean the surface, and roughen the area around the leak, and apply hot glue to the area that is leaking, and let it cool. Fixed a leaking float three years ago like this on a emergency repair during an ice storm. Repair is still holding. Guy had been without power for 3 days.


#16

reynoldston

reynoldston

Hot glue gun, never tried it. Never too old to learn something new in this trade.


#17

Carscw

Carscw

Never tried hot glue on a tank but I use it when I splice wires then rap with tape


#18

silver1

silver1

Carscw said:
Never tried hot glue on a tank but I use it when I splice wires then rap with tape
Click to expand...

Its apart and clean as it gets. Brass jet was dirty. Float, needle and seat look ok.
Tank sealed with "Seal-all". I'll put it back together today.

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#19

silver1

silver1

davbell22602 said:
Get a carb overhaul kit and install it after cleaning carb. Dont need new float unless its has a hole in it. I recommend using a ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the carb.
Click to expand...

The clean out worked. No parts used! I don't have much $$ to play with. I just like getting equipment working again or recycle the parts
This mower is a beast. Someone made the throttle "fixed" by bending the plate above the carb. It runs at 85% throttle all the time.

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#20

davbell22602

davbell22602

silver1 said:
The clean out worked. No parts used! I don't have much $$ to play with. I just like getting equipment working again or recycle the parts
This mower is a beast. Someone made the throttle "fixed" by bending the plate above the carb. It runs at 85% throttle all the time.
Click to expand...

Just cleaning the carb and installing no new parts is just temporary band aid fix and will not last long.


#21

Fish

Fish

davbell22602 said:
Just cleaning the carb and installing no new parts is just temporary band aid fix and will not last long.
Click to expand...

Why is that!!!??????


#22

Fish

Fish

Fish said:
Just try removing the nut on the bottom of the carb, and cleaning all of the holes in it first. Don't fuss with the bowl much, with luck it will stay stuck on the carb while you do this. The little holes
in your nut/jet will likely be scummed over a lot with varnish goo, partly from the molten baggie juice from the gas cap area. The molten plastic will eventually destroy
your engine, so you may want to get that new/used tank soon...
Click to expand...

Wow!!!! It is almost like someone posted this......


#23

silver1

silver1

Fish said:
Wow!!!! It is almost like someone posted this......
Click to expand...

The main tube was plugged up also, so removal was a good thing.


#24

Fish

Fish

get rid of the baggie!


#25

silver1

silver1

davbell22602 said:
Just cleaning the carb and installing no new parts is just temporary band aid fix and will not last long.
Click to expand...

Time will tell. No cost is good! The gaskets were ok. Simple task!


#26

Fish

Fish

silver1 said:
The main tube was plugged up also, so removal was a good thing.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but that inlet needle/ seat is still there..... I suggested just cleaning of the nut/jet first, because that it doesn't cost anything, and if the running improves,
you know that you are going in the right direction...... The bowl gasket usually shrivels into a booger....


#27

Fish

Fish

I always advocate the cheapest check/route, to isolate the problem....


#28

silver1

silver1

Fish said:
get rid of the baggie![/QUOTE,
Temperary its gone
Click to expand...


#29

Fish

Fish

Good, the gas will dissolve the plastic, and it will cook on the cylinder wall and bearing surfaces and destroy the engine. I coined the condition long ago, because folks around here will use anything to haul fuel and fuel mix.

I call it "The Milkjug Effect!!!"


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