LTX1000 Transaxle seems a bit too noisy?

[LTX1000]

TRACTOR - - MODEL NUMBER 917.272420
HYDRO GEAR TRANSAXLE - - MODEL NUMBER 314-0510

This is out of the manual. I found it online this morning. I copied this from the manual and pasted it here. I still refer to it as a transmission.

 

[LTX1000]

Is the noise when you just release the brake/clutch or is it only when moving.

If moving troubleshooting.
View attachment 62914

if I leave the pull rod in the neutral position and release the clutch, very little noise. So, the noise starts when I start moving.

 

[mechanic mark]

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[StarTech]

I don't know the history of the mower, e.g. hours. When I got the engine running, I put it in gear the first time with my fingers crossed not knowing what to expect being it was sitting up for two years out in the weather. It moved forward, noisy, but no slip or drag. I moved forward and back in low several times increasing the distance a little each time. I then went through all the gears driving around the yard. The noise stayed at the same level no matter what speed or in forward or reverse. I kept the RPMs Constance at 3600. I didn't think about the idler pulley, clutch or PTO because the noise seemed to be coming from the rear. I jacked in the rear end up and rotated the wheels listening for a bearing noise. No noise there. Before I drop the transmission, I think I will check the idler pulley.
Oh! what drives the cooling fan? Should it be free wheeling in either direction when the transmission is not engaged? It feels like the center of the fan hub may be stripped out.

To answer your question on the fan it is pin via lock nut to the pulley. So the pulley drives the fan.

Second no the transaxle doesn't free wheel in neutral; unless, the bypass lever is placed in bypass position.

If you are able to rotate without the pulley turning then the transaxle most likely have overheated and the oil inside the transaxle is bad. But noisy unit are usually too far gone to be saved by simply changing the oil. Cavatation usually destroys the pump section as it allows metal to metal contact.

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

Whoa for a minute the model number posted says Hydrostatic transaxle but you are indicating Gear type transaxle. So which is it?

An important question was not answered and this is why it is important. The nopise could be a "simple" idler pulley that tensions the belt or the tranny. In neutral, let the pedal up and if the belt now in motion is spinning these ( or this) pulley and the tranny input shaft is spinning but doing no work, then if the nooise is present and not really different, then this is where to look. If the pulley inspection will tell you when it does no0t spin by hand ( engine off) smooth. 1,2,3 -pulley(S), input shaft, tranny.

 

[StarTech]

I went and reread post #9 and the OP ask what drives the fan which tell it is a hydro and not a gear. Now he did throw off by saying he "when though all the gears" as hydros are continuously variable speed selection. So this still leaves the question as someone could have swapped the transaxle but i doubt it for fan is present.

 

[LTX1000]

To answer your question on the fan it is pin via lock nut to the pulley. So the pulley drives the fan.
View attachment 62915
Second no the transaxle doesn't free wheel in neutral; unless, the bypass lever is placed in bypass position.

If you are able to rotate without the pulley turning then the transaxle most likely have overheated and the oil inside the transaxle is bad. But noisy unit are usually too far gone to be saved by simply changing the oil. Cavatation usually destroys the pump section as it allows metal to metal contact.

Well. I should have used my instinct about the fan free wheeling. The lock nut was not tight enough. There is no other retainer or pin that locks the fan to the pulley. Compression is the only thing that holds the fan from slipping. It appears who ever tighten the nut didn't hold the pulley while tightening. There's probably a torque spec. in the service manual.

 

[StarTech]

 

[Freddie21]

From my experience, when the hydro is failing, it will tend to slow its top speed as it warms up. Usually after 10-15 mins of moving at full speed. Lowering and changing the oils to 20w50 may buy some time, but not a fix.

 

[rickpaulos]

I had a LT1000 17 HP that ran good for 8 years, but hit a branch that locked up the blades. From that point on it wouldn't start. The crank shaft bent and through the timing off and the governor was shot. The repair shop who was checking it out told me, it would cost more to repair than it was worth. The shop repair owner had 2002 Craftsman LTX1000 18 HP in fairly good shape, but it has been sitting up for about 2 years. He said you can have it if you don't mind pulling the engine and installing it in your mower. They were too busy to work on it and the lead time would be 9 weeks. With a little minor repairs I got it up and running. I didn't swap the motors, I just worked on completing the repairs on the LTX1000 because it was in better shape than my LT1000.

Now for the question: The Transaxle sounds a bit noisier than to the LT1000 that has already went to the scrap yard. It works great, but has a grinding sound that I thought would go away with use.
Any advice would help, Change oil?, etc. I don't want to run it until it fails when I can do something to save it.

I know this isn't about your question but..

I've hit a number of objects, bricks, fence posts, culverts, etc and I have sheared the key under the flywheel more than once. That is surely more likely to happen than bending the crank shaft. The key is intended to shear before the crank gets damaged. And it will throw the timing way off, usually to the point where motor won't start. I wonder how thoroughly the shop checked out your old motor. A flywheel puller is the only specialty tool needed to replace the key.