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Looking to buy a zero turn or tight turn mower. Need some help
#1
L
Lph008
L
Lph008
Just bought a house with 1.5 acres. Pretty flat with some low spots but no hills. I'm looking for info on what mower to buy. Considering a zero turn or a tight turn rider. Was considering the cub cadet ztr1 ultima 50 inch. With the Fabricated deck or the same mower with the 42 inch stamped deck. Was wondering if the fabricated deck, wider tires and extra 1hp is worth the $500 difference in price??
Also may consider one of the cub cadet tight turn mowers for half the price. I've never used a zero turn mower, only an regular old rider without the tight turn option. Any help is appreciated
Also may consider one of the cub cadet tight turn mowers for half the price. I've never used a zero turn mower, only an regular old rider without the tight turn option. Any help is appreciated
#2
tom3
tom3
Not really up on those choices but check into the hydro transmission rating. Could be a beefier unit, well worth the extra money if so.
#3
PTmowerMech
It all depends, what's the most important fact to you?
Initial cost?
Dependability?
Long lasting?
Looks?
Cost of repair?
1.5 acres isn't much. You'll gain a little speed with a zero turn. on that much property, you won't save more than maybe 10 minutes. To get dependability and long lasting, it's gonna cost you. Something along the lines of a Husqvarna, IMO, are decent mowers.
I'm no guru at small engine repair, but me personally, I wouldn't pay for a new mower. (I'm also cheap) I'd find a good used one with less than 300 hrs on it. If the engine and transmission are OK, but has some other minor stuff wrong, you can buy it cheap, make the repairs yourself. Or drop it off at your local small engine shop, and let them go through it. Some of your small shops even sell used equipment.
If I had my druthers, I'd find a pre MTD craftsman, fix it up and even have it painted. All that can be done cheaper than the lowest priced POS that Walmart sells new.
PTmowerMech
Just bought a house with 1.5 acres. Pretty flat with some low spots but no hills. I'm looking for info on what mower to buy. Considering a zero turn or a tight turn rider. Was considering the cub cadet ztr1 ultima 50 inch. With the Fabricated deck or the same mower with the 42 inch stamped deck. Was wondering if the fabricated deck, wider tires and extra 1hp is worth the $500 difference in price??
Also may consider one of the cub cadet tight turn mowers for half the price. I've never used a zero turn mower, only an regular old rider without the tight turn option. Any help is appreciated
It all depends, what's the most important fact to you?
Initial cost?
Dependability?
Long lasting?
Looks?
Cost of repair?
1.5 acres isn't much. You'll gain a little speed with a zero turn. on that much property, you won't save more than maybe 10 minutes. To get dependability and long lasting, it's gonna cost you. Something along the lines of a Husqvarna, IMO, are decent mowers.
I'm no guru at small engine repair, but me personally, I wouldn't pay for a new mower. (I'm also cheap) I'd find a good used one with less than 300 hrs on it. If the engine and transmission are OK, but has some other minor stuff wrong, you can buy it cheap, make the repairs yourself. Or drop it off at your local small engine shop, and let them go through it. Some of your small shops even sell used equipment.
If I had my druthers, I'd find a pre MTD craftsman, fix it up and even have it painted. All that can be done cheaper than the lowest priced POS that Walmart sells new.
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Cub Cadet units are manufactured by MTD which puts them on the low end of the dependability scale. I would recommend that you take a serious look at the brand name units with a fabricated deck. With the spring sales going on now, you should find a better unit in your price range. Brands I would consider include, but not limited to are; Ariens, Toro, Snapper, Bad Boy, etc. If you have more questions come back with exact model numbers (under the seat) and we can give you a better answer. Only recommendation I can give you now, fabricateddeck is better.
#5
PTmowerMech
The decks on most Cubs (and MTD) have the worst paint imaginable. I see so many that have had to be welded because of the rust.
PTmowerMech
Cub Cadet units are manufactured by MTD which puts them on the low end of the dependability scale. I would recommend that you take a serious look at the brand name units with a fabricated deck. With the spring sales going on now, you should find a better unit in your price range. Brands I would consider include, but not limited to are; Ariens, Toro, Snapper, Bad Boy, etc. If you have more questions come back with exact model numbers (under the seat) and we can give you a better answer. Only recommendation I can give you now, fabricateddeck is better.
The decks on most Cubs (and MTD) have the worst paint imaginable. I see so many that have had to be welded because of the rust.
#6
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
And I make the 3rd peoson advising against the pressed deck.
Got 3 customers with cub ZTR's of various sizes and none have any problems with the mower itself
The decks do give problems ( too thin ) and the wash out ports manage to get water into the spindles so most get new bearings every 2 to 3 years which is about twice the frequency of other brands.
I also have a few customers with the small JD Z225 and I am impressed with the quality of design & manufacture of them, way above any other DOMESTIC ZTR's .
Being in OZ I don't see a lot of the stuff you can get over there so not a comprehensive market comparison .
AS for all of the tight turn tractors they are all bad news if driven carelessly as there is no adjustments on the steering linkages and the tight turn puts a lot of stress on the steering gear.
Got 3 customers with cub ZTR's of various sizes and none have any problems with the mower itself
The decks do give problems ( too thin ) and the wash out ports manage to get water into the spindles so most get new bearings every 2 to 3 years which is about twice the frequency of other brands.
I also have a few customers with the small JD Z225 and I am impressed with the quality of design & manufacture of them, way above any other DOMESTIC ZTR's .
Being in OZ I don't see a lot of the stuff you can get over there so not a comprehensive market comparison .
AS for all of the tight turn tractors they are all bad news if driven carelessly as there is no adjustments on the steering linkages and the tight turn puts a lot of stress on the steering gear.
#7
L
Lph008
L
Lph008
I ended up buying the cub cadet ztr1 50 with the fabricated deck yesterday. I'm very meticulous with my snowmobiles, atvs and power equipment so I think it should last me wuote awhile. I'll use my air hose on it after every use and I wont use the deck wash system. I work on all my own toys so I'll pull the deck off a few times throughout the season and clean the deck etc. Like i said my lawn is pretty flat so I don't think it will get beat up too bad. I also used a 10% competitor coupon so I saved myself some money there. Now I just need to buy a striping kit and possibly a bagger. I have my atv that I'll use to pull my cart around the yard for debris pickup. I appreciate the help guysAnd I make the 3rd peoson advising against the pressed deck.
Got 3 customers with cub ZTR's of various sizes and none have any problems with the mower itself
The decks do give problems ( too thin ) and the wash out ports manage to get water into the spindles so most get new bearings every 2 to 3 years which is about twice the frequency of other brands.
I also have a few customers with the small JD Z225 and I am impressed with the quality of design & manufacture of them, way above any other DOMESTIC ZTR's .
Being in OZ I don't see a lot of the stuff you can get over there so not a comprehensive market comparison .
AS for all of the tight turn tractors they are all bad news if driven carelessly as there is no adjustments on the steering linkages and the tight turn puts a lot of stress on the steering gear.
#8
logert gogert
Personally, I put the deck all the way down, hook the hose up, turn it on, engage the pot like your supposed to, and it works GREAT
logert gogert
Why would you not use the deck cleaning hose function?I ended up buying the cub cadet ztr1 50 with the fabricated deck yesterday. I'm very meticulous with my snowmobiles, atvs and power equipment so I think it should last me wuote awhile. I'll use my air hose on it after every use and I wont use the deck wash system. I work on all my own toys so I'll pull the deck off a few times throughout the season and clean the deck etc. Like i said my lawn is pretty flat so I don't think it will get beat up too bad. I also used a 10% competitor coupon so I saved myself some money there. Now I just need to buy a striping kit and possibly a bagger. I have my atv that I'll use to pull my cart around the yard for debris pickup. I appreciate the help guys
Personally, I put the deck all the way down, hook the hose up, turn it on, engage the pot like your supposed to, and it works GREAT
#9
logert gogert
logert gogert
Why would you not use the deck cleaning hose function?
Personally, I put the deck all the way down, hook the hose up, turn it on, engage the pto like your supposed to, and it works GREAT
#10
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
He won’t use the washout system because he knows better. You do because you are 13 and don’t know better, or did your bother type that answer too.
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If you put a bagger on make sure you add some weights to the front or you will spend a lot of time looking at the sky.
You will like the easy deck coupling.
Get some 2 x 4 ' s twice as long as the deck is wide.
Slip them under the deck and drop the deck onto them then uncouple and slide it out on the wood like rails
You will like the easy deck coupling.
Get some 2 x 4 ' s twice as long as the deck is wide.
Slip them under the deck and drop the deck onto them then uncouple and slide it out on the wood like rails
#12
logert gogert
logert gogert
Okay.....I see how it is .....?He won’t use the washout system because he knows better. You do because you are 13 and don’t know better, or did your bother type that answer too.
#13
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Now I see how you work Logert. You post something, then realize what you did, delete it and post something else hoping no one saw it. Sorry I saw it and I guess you don’t want anyone see why I posted what I did. Your age and inexperience is showing.
#14
logert gogert
logert gogert
Guys......I did NOT post the spark plug question, you have to believe me.
And what’s wrong with using the deck hose fitting?
And what’s wrong with using the deck hose fitting?
#15
PTmowerMech
What happens when metal gets wet?
PTmowerMech
Why would you not use the deck cleaning hose function?
Personally, I put the deck all the way down, hook the hose up, turn it on, engage the pot like your supposed to, and it works GREAT
What happens when metal gets wet?
#16
PTmowerMech
Cutting the grass and leaving it on the lawn, is good fertilizer. Not to mention that layer of grass clippings helps to hold the moisture in & around the root system.
If it's the lines of dead grass that are unattractive, then you can raise the chute about half way, and it'll scatter instead of piling up in lines.
PTmowerMech
I ended up buying the cub cadet ztr1 50 with the fabricated deck yesterday. I'm very meticulous with my snowmobiles, atvs and power equipment so I think it should last me wuote awhile. I'll use my air hose on it after every use and I wont use the deck wash system. I work on all my own toys so I'll pull the deck off a few times throughout the season and clean the deck etc. Like i said my lawn is pretty flat so I don't think it will get beat up too bad. I also used a 10% competitor coupon so I saved myself some money there. Now I just need to buy a striping kit and possibly a bagger. I have my atv that I'll use to pull my cart around the yard for debris pickup. I appreciate the help guys
Cutting the grass and leaving it on the lawn, is good fertilizer. Not to mention that layer of grass clippings helps to hold the moisture in & around the root system.
If it's the lines of dead grass that are unattractive, then you can raise the chute about half way, and it'll scatter instead of piling up in lines.
#17
L
Lph008
L
Lph008
I want the bagger for the leaves during fall season. I probably wont bother with the bagger after reading quite a few bad reviews. I like that 2x4 idea though. As far as the deck wash, I could I imagine there would be issues with moisture getting trapped under grass on the deck. Therefore rusting prematurely.Cutting the grass and leaving it on the lawn, is good fertilizer. Not to mention that layer of grass clippings helps to hold the moisture in & around the root system.
If it's the lines of dead grass that are unattractive, then you can raise the chute about half way, and it'll scatter instead of piling up in lines.
#18
PTmowerMech
Mulching the leaves has the same fertilizer effect.
On a personal note, I like the looks of leaves covering the yard. Not to mention, it's good ground cover for the grass and roots.
PTmowerMech
I want the bagger for the leaves during fall season. I probably wont bother with the bagger after reading quite a few bad reviews. I like that 2x4 idea though. As far as the deck wash, I could I imagine there would be issues with moisture getting trapped under grass on the deck. Therefore rusting prematurely.
Mulching the leaves has the same fertilizer effect.
On a personal note, I like the looks of leaves covering the yard. Not to mention, it's good ground cover for the grass and roots.
#19
logert gogert
and what about when you cut grass and leave the packed up grass on the inside of the deck? the moisture gets trapped in there and rusts it too
logert gogert
yeah but it dries off.....What happens when metal gets wet?
and what about when you cut grass and leave the packed up grass on the inside of the deck? the moisture gets trapped in there and rusts it too
#20
tom3
tom3
Hot bearings vs cold water. Seen this on many Jeep front spindlers over the years too. Cool that bearing down quickly and it pulls water through the seals due to contraction of air space in the bearing. You can do it, I don't.
#21
logert gogert
wow, I've never thought of that
wel.....looks like I'm never doing that again...Lol
so if i can't use the attachment, whats the best way to get it off?
logert gogert
wow, I've never thought of that
wel.....looks like I'm never doing that again...Lol
so if i can't use the attachment, whats the best way to get it off?
#22
PTmowerMech
Metal doesn't really rust until it dries. The only reason metal rusts when submerged in water, is due to the oxygen in the water.
So then there's that.
But you go right ahead and wash off that deck and all those steel parts. It's your mower, right?
PTmowerMech
yeah but it dries off.....
and what about when you cut grass and leave the packed up grass on the inside of the deck? the moisture gets trapped in there and rusts it too
Metal doesn't really rust until it dries. The only reason metal rusts when submerged in water, is due to the oxygen in the water.
So then there's that.
But you go right ahead and wash off that deck and all those steel parts. It's your mower, right?
#23
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Actually it will rust under any conditions
The driving force for rusting is different oxygen potentials and internal energy stored in the lattice .
Remember it wants to be rust, we forced it to become steel.
Under water the rusting is actually faster than out of water because it is driven by thousands of tiny galvanic cells at the grain boundries .
The percieved difference is purely visual as when damp the rust will grab 6 water molecules becoming Fe2O3.6H2O which is a very big molecule and we see as being flakey rust
In water the rust is more evenly distributed , does not grab the extra 6 waters and can litteraly float away or get washed off .
Thee rust pits are tiny and require a strong glass or microscope to see so we think it is not rusting .
IT is the same for aluminium , the white fluffy stuff that brushes off easy is the stuff with the water and the tough stuff that takes forever to polish out is the stuff without water.
The driving force for rusting is different oxygen potentials and internal energy stored in the lattice .
Remember it wants to be rust, we forced it to become steel.
Under water the rusting is actually faster than out of water because it is driven by thousands of tiny galvanic cells at the grain boundries .
The percieved difference is purely visual as when damp the rust will grab 6 water molecules becoming Fe2O3.6H2O which is a very big molecule and we see as being flakey rust
In water the rust is more evenly distributed , does not grab the extra 6 waters and can litteraly float away or get washed off .
Thee rust pits are tiny and require a strong glass or microscope to see so we think it is not rusting .
IT is the same for aluminium , the white fluffy stuff that brushes off easy is the stuff with the water and the tough stuff that takes forever to polish out is the stuff without water.
#24
logert gogert
It’s a 48in? I Think?
MTD
somewhere around 1998-2003 I would say
16.5 opponents on it
Came with 208 hours on it, it now has 222 hours on it
The original deck was rusted out, I replaced it with a newer deck of ebay
logert gogert
Yessir, I bought it myself....used.Metal doesn't really rust until it dries. The only reason metal rusts when submerged in water, is due to the oxygen in the water.
So then there's that.
But you go right ahead and wash off that deck and all those steel parts. It's your mower, right?
It’s a 48in? I Think?
MTD
somewhere around 1998-2003 I would say
16.5 opponents on it
Came with 208 hours on it, it now has 222 hours on it
The original deck was rusted out, I replaced it with a newer deck of ebay
#26
PTmowerMech
I used to repair radiators. When the aluminum with plastic tanks started becoming the norm, all was fine, until people started having normal leaks. Tubes are epoxied to the header plate. So obviously it's not going to last for ever.
But to compound the problem, when people would get a leak, instead of putting even a cup full of anti frieeze in their radiator, and filling it the rest of the way with water, they'd just add water. And when water and aluminum get together, with thin aluminum, it doens't take long for more leaks to pup up. This time, straight through the aluminim.
PTmowerMech
Actually it will rust under any conditions
The driving force for rusting is different oxygen potentials and internal energy stored in the lattice .
Remember it wants to be rust, we forced it to become steel.
Under water the rusting is actually faster than out of water because it is driven by thousands of tiny galvanic cells at the grain boundries .
The percieved difference is purely visual as when damp the rust will grab 6 water molecules becoming Fe2O3.6H2O which is a very big molecule and we see as being flakey rust
In water the rust is more evenly distributed , does not grab the extra 6 waters and can litteraly float away or get washed off .
Thee rust pits are tiny and require a strong glass or microscope to see so we think it is not rusting .
IT is the same for aluminium , the white fluffy stuff that brushes off easy is the stuff with the water and the tough stuff that takes forever to polish out is the stuff without water.
I used to repair radiators. When the aluminum with plastic tanks started becoming the norm, all was fine, until people started having normal leaks. Tubes are epoxied to the header plate. So obviously it's not going to last for ever.
But to compound the problem, when people would get a leak, instead of putting even a cup full of anti frieeze in their radiator, and filling it the rest of the way with water, they'd just add water. And when water and aluminum get together, with thin aluminum, it doens't take long for more leaks to pup up. This time, straight through the aluminim.