Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor

[StarTech]

Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em

Broke ACR on the camshaft was the most likely problem and that JD just didn't know their stuff. Like one here that told a customer his engine didn't have an oil pump when it had an oil filter. All they had to do was look-up the engine's IPL and they would had know it had one. All it was a loose wire one the oil pressure switch.

My customer just quit letting the local dealer even touch his under warranty equipment.

 

[hlw49]

Take your pick there only two manufactures making lawn tractors now. Husqvarna and MTD now Black and Decker Stanley. They own MTD, Cub Cadet, and Excel that makes Hustler and use to make Big Dog until they bought them out. Base models Run over 2K.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Take your pick there only two manufactures making lawn tractors now. Husqvarna and MTD now Black and Decker Stanley. They own MTD, Cub Cadet, and Excel that makes Hustler and use to make Big Dog until they bought them out. Base models Run over 2K.

Very seldom do I see a broken connecting rod in any small engine, whether it is a Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, or Kawasaki. When I do, it is usually do to overheating, or lack of lubrication.
A self-propelled mower is suited for 1/4 acre yards. I do understand as people get older it is sometimes better or necessary to have a riding mower.
Just bear in mind that any riding mower around $2000-$3000 at the low end big box store brand will be very similar in quality and engine choice. Keep the air filter clean and change/check oil regularly.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Don't discount JD to quick . I had a dealer i felt the same about .
Look for a low hour X350 in the 2,800 to 3,000 price range . There out there if we have the patients and not quick to purchase . This is the time of year to buy .

Vary little turning is required if you mow as i do the 1/2 acre because i don't need a pristine golf course lawn . The 350 will mow in reverse just as fast as in forward , very little turning other than the 1st 3 or 4 rounds .

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Don't discount JD to quick . I had a dealer i felt the same about .
Look for a low hour X350 in the 2,800 to 3,000 price range . There out there if we have the patients and not quick to purchase . This is the time of year to buy .

Vary little turning is required if you mow as i do the 1/2 acre because i don't need a pristine golf course lawn . The 350 will mow in reverse just as fast as in forward , very little turning other than the 1st 3 or 4 rounds .

Please be aware that I am talking brand new, low end, residential, big box store riding mowers.

Obviously, a John Deere X series riding mower does not fit this because it is more like $5000 plus new. John Deere has done an amazing job of marketing and branding their name. Quality wise, parts and shop labor rates, and ease of working on them, not so amazing. In other words, John Deere costs more to buy, maintain, don’t hold up any better, and are a pain in the butt to work on often. Obviously, I am not a fan of John Deere. This is coming from hands on experience. Up to 25% of the riding mowers I service are John Deere in my area, so despite not always liking servicing them, it becomes necessary. Our local John Deere dealer is almost $200/ hour on labor. Please tell me how that cost premium is even remotely justified versus the other shops.

 

[bkeller500]

Now that Simplicity is stopping production that leaves us with Cub, MTD, JD, Husqvarna & Kubota tractors. In the $3K range I would most likely lean toward JD but not because of the motor but because of the rest of the machine and the mowing deck. $3K spread out over 4 seasons is $750 per season or $18.75 per hour base on your 160 hours. Anything beyond 160 hours is a bonus. Look at your neighbors. What are they using and which ones had to replace their cheap mowers more often vs the ones that seem to have had more stability. Look at the final cut. Which ones gives the best looking cut. To me the best looking cut is higher on my list of demands than the color of the mower or the engine brand. Finding a low hour unit that was traded in might give you the best of both worlds.

 

[mcspeed]

Get a zero turn. A traditional lawn tractor is 4-5x more wear and tear on you and the lawn. I suggest a mower shop over a big box store. BBS are focused on cheap. A mower shop may cost more but you get more if you do your homework.

 

[old yooper]

If you are willing to do your own maintenance on a mower, try looking for a used Snapper rider which were seemingly designed by someone that actually worked on a mower. Keep checking your local mower shops that take trade ins, Craigs List too. (whatever you buy, new or used, please buy it from someone / dealer that actually works on what they sell, no big box stores) In my profile picture I am fiddling with my old Snapper that I bought it over 10 years ago when it was almost worn out and it still is almost worn out.
I just checked your post agin and read where you wanted a lawn tractor, not a lawn mower. As for lawn tractors, most of the time there are lots more things to check out with a used lawn tractor and many were designed by engineers that were trying to make it easy to build not to do any maintenance on them, I would buy buy a lawn tractor ( new or used) from a local dealer that is willing to offer a warranty on one, new or used. At least a warranty that is long enough to last one season.
One of my local dealers had weed wackers on a very good sale last fall and offered a six month warranty which would have run out by spring. (I am not doing much wacking done in the snow)

 

[Aquadisiac]

Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD

I truly believe that a person wanting a quality mower should never buy one from a "big-box" store like Lowe's or Home Depot. To get a much higher quality machine, you must purchase one from a dealership. I know you said you don't want another John Deere, but if you go to their dealership and compare their machines to the ones at your favorite big box store, it won't take you long to see the difference in the machines. I had several problems with my first riding mower or garden tractor that I bought locally from a big box store. It was a learning experience that I just had write off. Oil leaks, No start issues, electrical problems, and so on. That was over 30 years ago. I went to a nearby John Deere dealer and bought a higher end model than the other places carried. I mowed our half acre with it for 16 years and sold it for just about half of what I paid for it. The only reason I sold it was to buy a Zero Turn Mower, which I am still using to this day!! It is older now but still looks and runs like brand new!! I recommend that you find one with a Kawasaki engine on it or a Kohler engine on it!! You shouldn't have any trouble then!!
Good luck on your searches!!

 

[MyGrassHasCrabs]

Spring 2001, three acres of grass growing fast, and my incredibly old MTD rear engine Briggs mower crapped out for good. I can't remember what the problem was, but I couldn't fix it or wait weeks for it to get fixed, so I hopped in the truck & bought the first thing I ran across at Home Depot - a JD Scotts L1742 with a 17 HP B&S engine. Here it is 23 years later and it's still running strong. I had a head gasket blow & I replaced that, and a slight problem with an electrical supply to the fuel solenoid, and a couple of easily repaired body issues. I'm not a big JD fan either, particularly in recent years, but it's hard to argue with 23 years of service. I also picked up a used LA-105 (19 hp John Deere engine (B&S?) a few years back for mulching the yard during grass season, but the L1742 is still used for towing stuff and to pick up leaves in the fall.

The point is that it may be luck of the draw, but my experience with JD has been good so far (knock on wood).

Keeping the oil changed and doing regular maintenance seems to do the trick for me. That's all I do for my 1984 Mazda B2000 pickup and my 1991 Honda Accord too, each with the same engines and both running like new. (Bet I've jinxed myself now...)