Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor

TobyU

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Head gasket was never a problem with my machine. The oil level was checked every time and I NEVER saw oil leakage or low oil level.
To your point, my lack of small engine knowledge may have bit me in the ass this time. Turning the flywheel (?) at the end of the first year became very difficult. My assumption was, battery or perhaps starter (replaced both). Turns out, JD junk. And the dealership shrugged their shoulders. F em
There will always be an occasional outlier in the statistics but snapped rods with oil level above the add mark are not a common occurrence.
You had a single so you prob had a 42 inch deck.
I prefer the singles to the twins as you can get a twin on some 42s but as you go larger deck size eventually you will only get a twin. Twins have more things to go wrong -and they do!

The Kohler "courage" single is fine after 2008 and the MTD and other Chinese/ Loncin are working out well too.
They have far fewer probs than the Briggs do.
You won't find many Kawasaki singles and the twins - I'd rather have a Kohler 7000 series or whatever they are calling it this year! 😆
Valve train issues with Kawasaki that should not happen. That's a low quality, haphazard assembly thing like Briggs.....
 

KMG

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Hi Folks, I'm looking to purchase a good reliable small lawn tractor (not JD!) for approx. 13K sq of lawn. I'm hoping to avoid Briggs&Stratton engines, specifically the 18HP
used in the JD E110 as there is some chatter that problems exist with these motors. Some Craftsman and Husqvarna models have Kohler engines, which might be a bit more
reliable. I'd be grateful for any/all advice.
And to explain the JD boycott, I purchased an E110 in 2020 and after 4 seasons, 160 hours of use and timely maintenance the engine failed. Fool me once...
Thank you in advance.
BuddyD
I hope you will look into and consider a John Deere E 180 which Jas a Koehler engine. I have this model, bought it new at Lowe's 6 years ago for 2,399.00 and it has been the most trouble free tractor I have ever owned. I mow 1 and 1/2 acres with it, hilly and bumpy yard and it is a beast! It also has the 30 second oil change option on it and changing the oil is a dream. It has a garden hose port on the deck so you can clean under the mowing deck in just a few minutes, keeping the deck clean and maintenance free. It has been worth every penny.
 

hlw49

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
I had a Kohler Commander that was a piece of junk twin cylinder and BOTH cam houseings cracked

I recomend a JOHN DEERE riding mower, I have a X330 for alomst an acre and its a total complete beast
Kohler command twin with 2 cam housings? Never saw a Command twin with 2 cams. Only twin cam Kohler was the single Courage. It had an issue with cracking the block where the cylinder met the block because the top plate bolts worked loose. You might have had a twin Cam single cylinder Courage. I have had Kohler warranty those things 5 years out. Got to the point when I serviced one would tighten the top plate bolts which seem to take care of the issue.
 
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TobyU

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
I hope you will look into and consider a John Deere E 180 which Jas a Koehler engine. I have this model, bought it new at Lowe's 6 years ago for 2,399.00 and it has been the most trouble free tractor I have ever owned. I mow 1 and 1/2 acres with it, hilly and bumpy yard and it is a beast! It also has the 30 second oil change option on it and changing the oil is a dream. It has a garden hose port on the deck so you can clean under the mowing deck in just a few minutes, keeping the deck clean and maintenance free. It has been worth every penny.
I'm sorry but you are falling for the absolute ludicrous marketing of these machines.
That wash Port is used on mini machines, even standard small push mowers and you should never have a garden hose near your equipment!
That is the general rule of thumb. There are a few specific times, kind of like two where it's okay but other than that the homeowner should keep the water hose far away from their machine.
That deck has at least two spindles, if it's a 42, and each spindle has an upper and lower bearing with only a very small rubber lip grease seal keeping out moisture. Then you have at least two idler pulleys which also have one bearing in them typically with a seal on each side.
It is not beneficial to any of those parts to splash them, spray them, or bathe them in water from either side.
It's even worse for people who decide to use a pressure washer to blast off the dirt and make the machine look closer to new.
The only thing that should be used is air whether it be from a leaf blower or compressed air from like a blow gun and of course you can wipe things off with rags too..
Now on that terrible fake feature of oil change in the filter.
If you'll do a quick bit of research you will find that only a smaller portion of your oil is even changed, something like 40% or something but it's nowhere near a complete oil change and you're never getting the crap in the crud that settles to the bottom that could possibly be taken out and even if you do it the better way of running it for a few minutes before you drain it, you're still leaving lot of it in there because it's still in suspension on the oil that you won't be removing.
You will also find that many people and dealers started buying the conversion kit right after this came out so they can convert it back to the proper and better way of changing the oil by draining it all.
This was nowhere near and improvement for the engine or beneficial to the engine or its longevity at all!
It was 100% so John Deere could sell and overpriced oil filter with some overpriced oil in it and convince people to buy it and pay the extra price for the convenience and a false piece of mind from changing their oil which they're actually changing part of their oil.
Don't know why it's such a big deal to people because most of these machines have a quick drain anyways with a spot to put a hose on to it and some of the newer ones actually have the hose already there up to the top so those are even easier to drain and the filter is very easy to remove once you loosen it with a 7 or $8 oil filter wrench what you can keep forever.
Use two little paper towels and you won't have any mess and you will change about 98 plus percent of your oil.
It's already easy since it's a spin on filter and if you don't buy the overpriced ones from John Deere (which many of us will never understand why people do just for their extra piece of mind etc).
I can change the oil on one of these riders with a new filter or even a new longer filter 51348 is the part number for the briggs, kohler, and the Chinese ones... For under $10. Sometimes only 8:50.
Compare that to the price of the all-in-one oil and filter and the real problem that you're not even changing half the oil.
It's a crazy design that should have never existed.

Also, while you seem to be a John Deere supporter , I don't think you'll get him to buy another John Deere machine.
He specifically said not those because he's so upset with his terrible experience from his current John Deere product.
 

TobyU

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Kohler command twin with 2 cam housings? Never saw a Command twin with 2 cams. Only twin cam Kohler was the single Courage. It had an issue with cracking the block where the cylinder met the block because the top plate bolts worked loose. You might have had a twin Cam single cylinder Courage. I have had Kohler warranty those things 5 years out. Got to the point when I serviced one would tighten the top plate bolts which seem to take care of the issue.
I was thoroughly tracking these for a number of years and it seems that all the ones up until around 2003 have already blown up. LOL
It was all about those front five bolts and the potential to be loose. Especially this ones in the front left when you're looking at it from the valve cover. They would work up and the fly who would smack them and it would crack the block in the same spot every time.
If you caught them early enough you could remove the front five bolts clean out the holes with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and use some loctite or put a lock washer on top of them and tighten them to specs and never have another problem.
It's actually a quite good design of the engine even a better design with the inverted sump or what we call super bowl but poor execution of actually putting them together.
Now I don't believe the twin cam design is better because that was just unnecessary.

I found that you should check any of them up until 2006 but I've only seen a very few of them affected in 2006 with loose bolts. I might have seen one 2007 but that's it. Nothing after that including 99% of the 2007 I checked and nothing 2008 or above was ever loose so they finally got the situation figured out.
 

hlw49

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Yes it was a problem they also has a cam issue the compression release stop on the cam would wear off over time and make the compression rease not work. It would kick back and make an awful noise. once they fixed all that they had a counter balance problem. I have seen them break, knock the back out of the engine and still run. Have seen the whole cylinder break off the rest of the engine and still run with the cylinder moving back and forth. When they got all the issues fixed they would run forever.
 

Tiger Small Engine

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
Yes it was a problem they also has a cam issue the compression release stop on the cam would wear off over time and make the compression rease not work. It would kick back and make an awful noise. once they fixed all that they had a counter balance problem. I have seen them break, knock the back out of the engine and still run. Have seen the whole cylinder break off the rest of the engine and still run with the cylinder moving back and forth. When they got all the issues fixed they would run forever.


This has turned into a long thread, which is fine. So to summarize this is what I would say.

When you are talking low end residential riding mowers $2000-$3500, they are all pretty close on features, reliability, build quality, etc. So if you have a certain brand loyalty or personal experience with a brand and do some research, it is not going to make a significant difference in what brand you buy.

The Kohler engine in general is a great engine (especially the Command). The only engine there have been significant problems with is the Kohler Courage (especially the single cylinder). You can go online a do more reading for specific issues.

The EZ oil filter change on select John Deere riders is a total gimmick and does not do a good job of correctly filtering the engine, along with additional costs for buying the John Deere oil filter.

If you want to pressure wash your mower once every two or three years you will be fine. Obviously avoid direct spray at electrical connections.

I have used inexpensive belts from online, inexpensive purchased locally, and pricey OEM belts for customer Equipment. I have had one belt almost immediately break of all these different belts I have replaced over several years. The only thing I will stress is to stick with OEM belts on John Deere riders and zero turns. These belts have a slightly different angle and size that means the difference between the belt holding up vs breaking too early.
Hope this helps.
 

Sean OM

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
All lawn tractors are crap. You need to get into lawn and garden tractors before they kind of start not becoming crap.

Honestly for a lawn that size, you are better off with an electric. Then you don't have to worry about the oil or what engine you get. And since you only mow lawn, the autonomous robotic mowers have dropped significantly in price, and you should be able to do several patterns with them.
 

TobyU

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
This has turned into a long thread, which is fine. So to summarize this is what I would say.

When you are talking low end residential riding mowers $2000-$3500, they are all pretty close on features, reliability, build quality, etc. So if you have a certain brand loyalty or personal experience with a brand and do some research, it is not going to make a significant difference in what brand you buy.

The Kohler engine in general is a great engine (especially the Command). The only engine there have been significant problems with is the Kohler Courage (especially the single cylinder). You can go online a do more reading for specific issues.

The EZ oil filter change on select John Deere riders is a total gimmick and does not do a good job of correctly filtering the engine, along with additional costs for buying the John Deere oil filter.

If you want to pressure wash your mower once every two or three years you will be fine. Obviously avoid direct spray at electrical connections.

I have used inexpensive belts from online, inexpensive purchased locally, and pricey OEM belts for customer Equipment. I have had one belt almost immediately break of all these different belts I have replaced over several years. The only thing I will stress is to stick with OEM belts on John Deere riders and zero turns. These belts have a slightly different angle and size that means the difference between the belt holding up vs breaking too early.
Hope this helps.
It seems we agree on many points.
Doesn't matter much what brand you buy as all the mowers today are just a combination of their parts which are made by somebody else - at least the important parts and that's the transmission and the engine.
Unless they're buying used they're not going to get a command engine because all the single cylinder Kohler's are the courage style but luckily those problems have all been fixed since around 2008.
The John Deere easy oil change thing is complete crap like you said. Luckily, it's only a few bucks to buy the parts to turn it back into the proper oil change setup and that's what everyone who owns one of these should do!
I can't agree on getting water near most mowers but then again I live in a fairly human climate so when you wet something down it tends to stay wet longer than it would out west somewhere where it's dry in 20 minutes.
At least keep the spray direction away from the pulleys, spindles and bearings on the deck.
Stick with OEM belts and you'll be far better off and you'll make the few extra dollars you spend back up in the extra time that the belt will last on the mower.

Brand loyalty is mostly just fooling yourself on this type of equipment.

And the number one thing!! None of these entry level lawn tractors should cost anywhere near $2,000 to $3,500!.
Some of them are now but that's only because they've raised the price $800 to $1,000 in the past two years.

You could get a Troy-Bilt pony on sale or at The season's lowest price for $998 under 3 years ago.
Just two years ago you could get one for 1149.
You could get the Cub cadet for $1599 to 1799.
Now it's between 2200 and 2800 for most of the popular 42-in mowers.
It's a real shame.
There's no way I would buy any of that stuff new at those prices.
I would go buy me a three or four year old or whatever but good condition and not very used looking one from someone else who is upgrading to a zero turn etc because these are typically under $700 and sometimes closer to half that.
 

RayMcD

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  • / Looking for advice re: purchasing a reliable lawn tractor
All lawn tractors are crap. You need to get into lawn and garden tractors before they kind of start not becoming crap.

Honestly for a lawn that size, you are better off with an electric. Then you don't have to worry about the oil or what engine you get. And since you only mow lawn, the autonomous robotic mowers have dropped significantly in price, and you should be able to do several patterns with them.
Preach on Buddy, you can take your electric lawn mower and toss it in the drink,,,, Cheers, Ray
 
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