Last effort before service center Intek 20hp V Twin

while you are waiting for the postman read through this post https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/50093-FR730V-Carb-Whistling-Surging
All mower engines are basically the same people get confused by brand names and surging is the same regardless of what colour the engine is.
The plastic manifolds are highly prone to leaking due to over tightening , the O ring sits slightly proud of the surface and too tight can cause the sides to bend, particularly when the O rings have gone hard
 
Run a small wire through every passage of the carb, especially the smallest ones and ones under the Welch plug.

Then soak it some more. Then blow compressed air through every passage.

I would not use sealant on the Welch plug. If some of it squishes out underneath the plug, you're right back where you started.
 
Yes Bert has a good Idea.....

Mike you have to destroy the welch plug to get it out.... Do not use anything to seal it... To install it just use a 1/4 inch punch or something equal to that size and indent the center of the new plug..... It should be flat when installed right....
 
Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
Yes Bert has a good Idea.....

Mike you have to destroy the welch plug to get it out.... Do not use anything to seal it... To install it just use a 1/4 inch punch or something equal to that size and indent the center of the new plug..... It should be flat when installed right....
Click to expand...

I never realized just how picky something like a carb can be. As I stated before, I am new to repairing things myself. I will follow everyone's suggestions for the carb. Now, how do I keep from having to do this again anytime soon? I began using 89 octane fuel after the first time it was Surging. Before I was just using the 87.

In seeking advice the first time months ago I was told my particular type of engine was sensitive to the 87 fuel. Since it is a lower grade fuel it leaves behind more gunk.

So, should I keep using the 89 and add extra fuel cleaner to each tank? Or should I use the higest grade fuel?

Beginning to think I should ditch the mowers and just let my neighbors livestock graze everywhere...
 
Mike, in case you do decide to replace your carb, you may want to try a CHEAP chinese job, I replaced a carb on a 10 HP Tecumseh eng. and a carb on my 17.5 HP Briggs, both bought from the ROP Shop on ebay.. to my surprise they both work great, had to adjust idle speed ( only screw on these carbs ) but as cheap as they were .. (less than $20.00 ea.) I figured what the hell, saved myself a few hundred bucks against the OEM carbs. ..... just sayin ...........
 
Last edited:
Boobala said:
Mike, in case you do decide to replace your carb, you may want to try a CHEAP chinese job, I replaced a carb on a 10 HP Tecumseh eng. and a carb on my 17.7 HP Briggs, both bought from the ROP Shop on ebay.. to my surprise they both work great, had to adjust idle speed ( only screw on these carbs ) but as cheap as they were .. (less than $20.00 ea.) I figured what the hell, saved myself a few hundred bucks against the OEM carbs. ..... just sayin ...........
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Will look into that. Like you said: what the Hell, eh? At this point I'm ready to try the local witch doctor
 
Boobala said:
EASY does it, PATIENCE & PERSISTANCE will over-come .........
Click to expand...

Ok. I just checked the valve clearances using .005 feeler gauge as directed by service manual. Clearances seem correct. Easy movement of gauge with slight resistance. So, should I get a compression tester now? Also, should I take the flywheel off and check the key?
 
Just use NON ETHO gas 87 grade and it won't clog up again........

The flywheel key has nothing to do with surging..........

Just concentrate on the carb for now............
 
Mike out of curiosity I checked the ROP shop AND ALL of ebay, no replacement carb !! DUH !! BUT.. there is a used carb & manifold for $55.00 + shipping (about $16.00) = $70+ bucks if that interests you, BUT it ends Monday , might try to contact seller ASAP .. if you're interested.. your engine may be too new on the market for them to mfg those carbs. NEW carb = $ 165.00 and UP ..OUCH !!
SORRY if i dashed your hopes of a CHEAP carb.. MY BAD !!
here's some info ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Str...675948?hash=item4d78a6c06c:g:fJ0AAOSw7pZbXSZz

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...-40n899/40n877-0004-g1/carburetor-fuel-filter

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...Briggs-Stratton-Small-Engine-Carburetor-Parts

https://www.partswarehouse.com/40N877-0004-G1-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/239559.htm#

Your carb is SIMILAR to the NIKKI 1 Bbl. used on the SINGLE cyl. Briggs engines (28-30 Series) check out this rebuild procedure it might prove helpful to ya ... Boo

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top