Last effort before service center Intek 20hp V Twin

[StatesboroMike]

Mike out of curiosity I checked the ROP shop AND ALL of ebay, no replacement carb !! DUH !! BUT.. there is a used carb & manifold for $55.00 + shipping (about $16.00) = $70+ bucks if that interests you, BUT it ends Monday , might try to contact seller ASAP .. if you're interested.. your engine may be too new on the market for them to mfg those carbs. NEW carb = $ 165.00 and UP ..OUCH !!
SORRY if i dashed your hopes of a CHEAP carb.. MY BAD !!
here's some info ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Str...675948?hash=item4d78a6c06c:g:fJ0AAOSw7pZbXSZz

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...-40n899/40n877-0004-g1/carburetor-fuel-filter

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-F...Briggs-Stratton-Small-Engine-Carburetor-Parts

https://www.partswarehouse.com/40N877-0004-G1-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/239559.htm#

Your carb is SIMILAR to the NIKKI 1 Bbl. used on the SINGLE cyl. Briggs engines (28-30 Series) check out this rebuild procedure it might prove helpful to ya ... Boo

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_intek_single_ohv_nikki_carb.asp

Thank for all your input! I will check into it.

 

[Boobala]

Thank for all your input! I will check into it.

Mike, SORRY AGAIN, got my head up my arse, MAYBE you can use the same carb I have on MY Briggs 21 HP Twin, check out the pics and see if you think everything will match up with yours, the only thing I saw major, was the solenoid on yours is SIDE mounted and mine is bottom mounted but I THINK the linkages (throttle/choke should all be alike) .. and you can buy a chinese model of mine cheap, 20 HP ... 21 HP same schitt ! check it out ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Engine...127?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

check out the pics on this site and compare to your carb ..... click on pics RIGHT-HAND side of page (scroll down)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Mower...602?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

BESURE to see where it ships from and shipping charges and delivery dates ......... Boo

 

[Luffydog]

To me 89 is the worst one u can buy because you pay more for nothing. Let's say you wanted a hundred gallons of 89. It takes 70gallons of 87 and 30 gallons of 93 to down blend the fuel to 89. So it's 87 or 93 is the only two straight octanes of fuel to buy. After 30 days it starts going bad from the day it's made then shipped to a termanal then has to sit then they put their blends in and sits for a few more days then off to the station for sale it's almost bad before you buy it and In some cases it is at smaller stations that don't sell a lot of the fuels. :thumbsup:

 

[cpurvis]

Gasoline is made at a refinery. It is then put in the refinery's million gallon tank, along with all the other gas of the same octane that's in the tank. It then goes by pipeline, some hundreds of miles long, to reach a distribution point where it's dumped into their million gallon tank.

There it gets loaded onto a delivery truck, having its brand's particular additive recipe injected as the fuel goes on the truck. Then it is hauled to a filling station or commercial user and dumped into their tank, mixing with whatever is in the tank at the time.

Now, how old is that gas when you get it?

 

[Boobala]

Anybody living close to a Marina on the water should have no problem getting NON Ethanol gas, MOST marinas have it .

 

[StatesboroMike]

Anybody living close to a Marina on the water should have no problem getting NON Ethanol gas, MOST marinas have it .

I have been intensely studying the carb (BS# 699807) in the links you sent earlier. Although it is not listed as being used/compatible on my particular engine (40N877-0004G1-170627YG) it appears to be virtually identical to my present carb (BS# 594207). The only difference I can easily see is that the rocker tab on the end of the choke shaft is slightly different. However, the placement for the linkage seems the same. Everything else looks to be a match. I am beginning to wonder if manufacturers sometimes make a very minor change to a part and assign it a brand new code so they can say it is a different part and charge an arm and a leg for it. I am definitely going to keep 699807 in mind, even if the one in the links is a knockoff. Thanks again!

 

[Boobala]

I have been intensely studying the carb (BS# 699807) in the links you sent earlier. Although it is not listed as being used/compatible on my particular engine (40N877-0004G1-170627YG) it appears to be virtually identical to my present carb (BS# 594207). The only difference I can easily see is that the rocker tab on the end of the choke shaft is slightly different. However, the placement for the linkage seems the same. Everything else looks to be a match. I am beginning to wonder if manufacturers sometimes make a very minor change to a part and assign it a brand new code so they can say it is a different part and charge an arm and a leg for it. I am definitely going to keep 699807 in mind, even if the one in the links is a knockoff. Thanks again!

Usually it's just a change in the main jet size or the linkage, you could possibly swap the choke rod assy. from your old carb to the replacement if really necessary. I checked the parts lists and the carbs use most of the same P/Ns ... my engine is th 404500 series if you care to check,

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/b...engine-parts-c-16758_17347_240657_240714.html

 

[StatesboroMike]

Usually it's just a change in the main jet size or the linkage, you could possibly swap the choke rod assy. from your old carb to the replacement if really necessary. I checked the parts lists and the carbs use most of the same P/Ns ... my engine is th 404500 series if you care to check,

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/b...engine-parts-c-16758_17347_240657_240714.html

Got the new Welch plugs yesterday. Soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, ran wire through the holes, sprayed it down with another can of carb cleaner, etc etc etc. Got it all back together this morning and it started and ran smoothly, except...

The engine is still running at a low rpm and does not respond to the throttle control. Fast or slow, makes no difference. All the linkages seem to be moving correctly, all springs are present. Guessing now I need to get a tachometer and check the RPM? Pull the flywheel and check the key? Reset all the linkages? ??????????

 

[Boobala]

Got the new Welch plugs yesterday. Soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, ran wire through the holes, sprayed it down with another can of carb cleaner, etc etc etc. Got it all back together this morning and it started and ran smoothly, except...

The engine is still running at a low rpm and does not respond to the throttle control. Fast or slow, makes no difference. All the linkages seem to be moving correctly, all springs are present. Guessing now I need to get a tachometer and check the RPM? Pull the flywheel and check the key? Reset all the linkages? ??????????

OK Mike, it sounds as though you have a linkage issue, are you sure the throttle /choke cable(s) are properly adjusted and moving their full travel ?? here's a few vids to check on your governor spring and throttle setting, check it out, and let us know what's happening ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL6WmE7pPKs

 

[StatesboroMike]

OK Mike, it sounds as though you have a linkage issue, are you sure the throttle /choke cable(s) are properly adjusted and moving their full travel ?? here's a few vids to check on your governor spring and throttle setting, check it out, and let us know what's happening ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7rvHH0IPPk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL6WmE7pPKs

for the past two days I have been studying diagrams, videos, and pics of the linkage assembly for my engine. Everything seems correct. All parts are present. All are moving as they should. Still, I have no throttle control. I move the throttle to CHOKE, start the engine, move the throttle down to FAST, and it just stays there (though it doesn't seem to be revving at its top RPM). Moving down the throttle speeds has no effect. Also, the engine seems to get extremely hot after just a few seconds of running. Any ideas? I feel I am getting close to getting my mower to working again, but the Mower gods aren't making it easy.